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Official Samsung UNXXD7000 Owners' Thread - Page 92

post #2731 of 3244
any anyone recommend which type of hdmi cables i should be using? Does it matter? or are all created equal? Please advise..
post #2732 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by indianlegend83 View Post

any anyone recommend which type of hdmi cables i should be using? Does it matter? or are all created equal? Please advise..

Others will chime in with specifics, but you definitely want to make sure you use a cable that is made for 3D. I've been told that some cheaper cables will not work. My installer used Monster Advanced for HDMI. There is a number on them: E194731
post #2733 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Others will chime in with specifics, but you definitely want to make sure you use a cable that is made for 3D. I've been told that some cheaper cables will not work. My installer used Monster Advanced for HDMI. There is a number on them: E194731

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/3d.aspx
post #2734 of 3244
Do not fall for HDMI marketing, a good HDMI cable will not run more than $20, it's simply 1's and 0's, it's a binary connection. Believe it or not, Walmart sells some very decent plain black cables that can be had for $10CAD, they have various sizes. Gold plated, gas filled, will not change the fact that the signal is 1's and 0's, it is not possible to enhance the picture or quality of HDMI signals, either it gets there, or it doesn't. If, with your current cables, you see stars bursts or white dots on the screen or experience drop outs, change the cables.

http://reviews.cnet.com/hdmi-guide/

The points start on page 3
http://reviews.cnet.com/2719-11276_7-226-3.html

I've seen the margins on some of the "Gold" cables the big box stores sell, I would make you sick to know that the $89 cable is $8, yes they are marked up that far.
post #2735 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

You might need to edit the default output device, right click your speaker icon, go to playback devices, and make sure the HDMI is your default device.

Thanks for the suggestions Nick and Nitra. As it turns out this was mainly user error. The MB in my media server is very old and I had no idea there was a BIOS setting for audio over HDMI/DVI. I changed the setting and everything is now good. (My old Pioneer monitor must have been getting its audio from an analog connection, not over HDMI as I had thought).

p.s. Picture looks great. Sound - not so much.
post #2736 of 3244
The sound is pretty bad out of the box. Most people feed through an external source. However one thing that hasn't been discussed much throughout the thread is adjusting the sound w/ the equalizer. It actually helps when you don't want to fire up your entire system
post #2737 of 3244
I have my TV hooked up via the wired LAN port. When I try to get it to update, it tries for a few minutes then eventually gets and "error 801" timeout and says the network connection is not stable. However, I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong. It just ran a smart hub update only moments before.

Is samsung's updater down right now? It says I'm running firmware 1019, is that very old?
post #2738 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by funnyguy00 View Post

I have my TV hooked up via the wired LAN port. When I try to get it to update, it tries for a few minutes then eventually gets and "error 801" timeout and says the network connection is not stable. However, I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong. It just ran a smart hub update only moments before.

Is samsung's updater down right now? It says I'm running firmware 1019, is that very old?

I couldn't upgrade either at around the time of your post.. Get same message.

Update: TV upgraded itself overnight to 1020
post #2739 of 3244
Question: I have had my new tv for about a month now...and playing with the settings. At one point the "soap opera effect" was clearly visable. Almost "3d like" while not in 3d mode. Then all of a sudden it stopped. I am not sure what setting I changed, however, my family kind of like the "soap opera" effect look of things and I am not sure how to get it back.

Hopefully this makes sense. Any help is appreciated. thanks.
post #2740 of 3244
Mine had the "Soap Opera" effect w/ factory settings. IMO it actually lacks depth. But if you liked it, I guess you can go into Picture Settings of each mode, scroll down to Reset Picture
post #2741 of 3244
has anyone ever had a flashbulb effect where certain video scenes cause slight flashes of white? Sometimes its really dark scenes and is very noticeable, and others the screen can be mostly white. I can't find a pattern, but my new d7000 is doing it.

Maybe I should have posted here first, but I had originally started its own thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1406531
post #2742 of 3244
I have a Mac with a Windows XP partition. I downloaded the firmware upgrade when in Mac, then went to Windows and clicked on the .exe file.

The PDF instructions says when clicked, it creates it's own directory then extracts. Mine did not. I'm using the unzip utility that comes with WinXP Pro (i.e., not WinZip). So I created the directory with the exact name of the file (without the .exe), and I clicked on unzip.

It did so, leaving 21 files. There are other directories on the USB stick (but there was nothing in the instructions saying that was not okay).

I inserted the stick into USB1, the TV found the device, and I was able to see the directory structure too, confirming the folder is there.

But when I selected upgrade software, it says no file was found.
post #2743 of 3244
Hi. I have an external hard drive with lots of MP4 video files. The problem that I have is that the television playback is very jerky. Audio is fine, but video is not. It doesn't seem to struggle with AVI files as it does with the MP4 files. Since the files play back well on the computer, I'm figuring the problem is with the play back software on the TV. Is there an app that can be used like the native video file player on the television which would not struggle so much with playback? Thanks.
post #2744 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Do not fall for HDMI marketing, a good HDMI cable will not run more than $20, it's simply 1's and 0's, it's a binary connection. Believe it or not, Walmart sells some very decent plain black cables that can be had for $10CAD, they have various sizes. Gold plated, gas filled, will not change the fact that the signal is 1's and 0's, it is not possible to enhance the picture or quality of HDMI signals, either it gets there, or it doesn't. If, with your current cables, you see stars bursts or white dots on the screen or experience drop outs, change the cables.

http://reviews.cnet.com/hdmi-guide/

The points start on page 3
http://reviews.cnet.com/2719-11276_7-226-3.html

I've seen the margins on some of the "Gold" cables the big box stores sell, I would make you sick to know that the $89 cable is $8, yes they are marked up that far.

Nitra: While I agree that most cable hype is way out of control, I do believe that a quality HDMI cable is required for long runs, especially for 3D capability. Do you disagree? I have seen the degradation myself. Years ago I bought into the high end interconnects (AudioTruth and the like). I'm less inclined to overspend on cables these days.
post #2745 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Nitra: While I agree that most cable hype is way out of control, I do believe that a quality HDMI cable is required for long runs, especially for 3D capability. Do you disagree? I have seen the degradation myself. Years ago I bought into the high end interconnects (AudioTruth and the like). I'm less inclined to overspend on cables these days.

Long runs I completely agree with you on, however, if you're doing a long run, you're not going to be using a Monster cable anyway. And even at 9ft I've never seen degradation.
Most of the users that are reading here on this forum are looking for a short run to the TV from the STB/AVR, those are all short runs.
Also, for long runs, there's better ways to do the run than HDMI, we've got a 50ft run in the office, we do it via ethernet with cat-5.
post #2746 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post


Long runs I completely agree with you on, however, if you're doing a long run, you're not going to be using a Monster cable anyway. And even at 9ft I've never seen degradation.
Most of the users that are reading here on this forum are looking for a short run to the TV from the STB/AVR, those are all short runs.
Also, for long runs, there's better ways to do the run than HDMI, we've got a 50ft run in the office, we do it via ethernet with cat-5.

I'm still learning after being away from home theater for about 8 years. My last setup was pre-HDMI (Mitsubishi 55"RPTV), Proceed AVP, Proceed AMP5, Linn 51XX speakers across the front and a lot of overly-priced Audioquest and Audiotruth interconnects. Now that I'm diving back in with the Samsung UN60D I'm finding out that so much has changed. I do know that my installer left cat-5 in the wall in the event we go that direction for the full install. Right now it's just the TV mounted above the fireplace while I wait for the AVP to come back from the shop.

I'm hoping the AMP 5 will serve my upgraded system well, but I'm sure I'll have to go to something more modern in the A/V processor world. So far all signs are pointing towards Anthem. Is that the consensus mid-tier processor these days?

Thanks for your continued sharing on this forum. I've fallen behind and this is truly helping me get up to speed quickly!
post #2747 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I'm still learning after being away from home theater for about 8 years. My last setup was pre-HDMI (Mitsubishi 55"RPTV), Proceed AVP, Proceed AMP5, Linn 51XX speakers across the front and a lot of overly-priced Audioquest and Audiotruth interconnects. Now that I'm diving back in with the Samsung UN60D I'm finding out that so much has changed. I do know that my installer left cat-5 in the wall in the event we go that direction for the full install. Right now it's just the TV mounted above the fireplace while I wait for the AVP to come back from the shop.

I'm hoping the AMP 5 will serve my upgraded system well, but I'm sure I'll have to go to something more modern in the A/V processor world. So far all signs are pointing towards Anthem. Is that the consensus mid-tier processor these days?

Thanks for your continued sharing on this forum. I've fallen behind and this is truly helping me get up to speed quickly!


You may actually find that a lot of your older equipment will work just fine with a little bit of a refresh. HDMI can actually introduce some issues that you didn't have in your older setup. Personally I've been partial to the Denon CI series of AVR's. Saying that, you really can't go wrong with Anthem gear. Just be aware that modern AVR's don't have the same power that they had even 10 years ago. Look at an AVR with something like Audyssey, or room correction, and read up on how to use it, it really makes an outstanding difference. Also, if you're going for a refresh, look at something with AirPlay and DLNA built into the AVR, your iDevices/Androids will be able to play directly to the AVR.
post #2748 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post


You may actually find that a lot of your older equipment will work just fine with a little bit of a refresh. HDMI can actually introduce some issues that you didn't have in your older setup. Personally I've been partial to the Denon CI series of AVR's. Saying that, you really can't go wrong with Anthem gear. Just be aware that modern AVR's don't have the same power that they had even 10 years ago.

Thanks for that! I am hopeful I can just go Directv, Blu-Ray, and Linn Mimik (CD) via interconnects to AVP as before for sound and Directv and Blu-Ray via HDMI to the Samsung for video in the short term. That will give me time to research (and save for) an appropriated AVR. I'll read up on the Denon!

Steve
post #2749 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Nitra: While I agree that most cable hype is way out of control, I do believe that a quality HDMI cable is required for long runs, especially for 3D capability. Do you disagree? I have seen the degradation myself. Years ago I bought into the high end interconnects (AudioTruth and the like). I'm less inclined to overspend on cables these days.

Also, keep in mind that quality doesn't always mean expensive.

Many expensive cables seem to focus on the conductor. Sure, pure silver with gold plated connectors isn't going to do you a bit of good compared to OFHC copper/nickel on a short run (maybe not even a long run), except to jack up the price.

On the other hand, the quality of the terminations has a lot to do with whether or not the cable will fall apart or even conceal a hidden open circuit and be the bane of your attempts to troubleshoot a missing signal.

Also, cable design can have a great impact on shielding, not only RF pickup, but capacitive and inductive pickup. Ground loops are another concern where proper cabling may help. Unfortunately, there is often no way to easily tell if an expensive cable is any better than a cheap one in these regards, unless you take it apart and compare. Sometimes, you might be able to note a more robust termination or thicker cable that might indicate better quality or improved shielding, but usually you have to trust manufacturer's sales propaganda or online reviews. Optical cables were superior in all of these areas. It's a shame HDMI wasn't an all-digital optical format. When you are connecting multiple components, some through long runs of cables to different rooms, optical is the way to go to prevent a lot of common issues.
post #2750 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren_C View Post

Also, keep in mind that quality doesn't always mean expensive.

Many expensive cables seem to focus on the conductor. Sure, pure silver with gold plated connectors isn't going to do you a bit of good compared to OFHC copper/nickel on a short run (maybe not even a long run), except to jack up the price.

On the other hand, the quality of the terminations has a lot to do with whether or not the cable will fall apart or even conceal a hidden open circuit and be the bane of your attempts to troubleshoot a missing signal.

Also, cable design can have a great impact on shielding, not only RF pickup, but capacitive and inductive pickup. Ground loops are another concern where proper cabling may help. Unfortunately, there is often no way to easily tell if an expensive cable is any better than a cheap one in these regards, unless you take it apart and compare. Sometimes, you might be able to note a more robust termination or thicker cable that might indicate better quality or improved shielding, but usually you have to trust manufacturer's sales propaganda or online reviews. Optical cables were superior in all of these areas. It's a shame HDMI wasn't an all-digital optical format. When you are connecting multiple components, some through long runs of cables to different rooms, optical is the way to go to prevent a lot of common issues.


Fantastic take on that Darren, I really wish they wouldn't clutter the standard with marketing "BS" it really obfuscates the entire process, especially for people that just want it to work and don't want to take the time to sort through it.
post #2751 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren_C View Post

It's a shame HDMI wasn't an all-digital optical format. When you are connecting multiple components, some through long runs of cables to different rooms, optical is the way to go to prevent a lot of common issues. . .

. . . IF the optical cable has the bandwidth to support the signal being transported. TOSHLINK won't do it with hi-res multi-channel audio . . .
post #2752 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post


Personally I've been partial to the Denon CI series of AVR's. Saying that, you really can't go wrong with Anthem gear.

Looking at the price point on a Denon AVR 4311 CI and the included features it looks pretty attractive. Is the processing (both audio and video) comparable to some of the other high-end products we've discussed or is it truly a step down? Keep in mind I probably can't spend as much on electronics as I did in the past. Also, I would most likely be using the pre-outs for the 5 main channels to my Proceed AMP 5. Would this be a mistake with something like the Denon?
post #2753 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Looking at the price point on a Denon AVR 4311 CI and the included features it looks pretty attractive. Is the processing (both audio and video) comparable to some of the other high-end products we've discussed or is it truly a step down? Keep in mind I probably can't spend as much on electronics as I did in the past. Also, I would most likely be using the pre-outs for the 5 main channels to my Proceed AMP 5. Would this be a mistake with something like the Denon?


I've been using them exclusively for the last 5 years, no issues at all, good feature sets etc. The Denon does offer Audyssey, I cannot speak highly enough about Audyssey, once deployed correctly, it's amazing what it can do for your room.
post #2754 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post


I've been using them exclusively for the last 5 years, no issues at all, good feature sets etc. The Denon does offer Audyssey, I cannot speak highly enough about Audyssey, once deployed correctly, it's amazing what it can do for your room.

This sounds like a more reasonable, cost-conscious alternative for a modern A/V processor that could be used by itself or as a front end to my Amp 5. I'd even consider the 4810 as being in my budget given it is being replaced soon and might be reasonably priced. This is great advice!
post #2755 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

This sounds like a more reasonable, cost-conscious alternative for a modern A/V processor that could be used by itself or as a front end to my Amp 5. I'd even consider the 4810 as being in my budget given it is being replaced soon and might be reasonably priced. This is great advice!

If you opt for something with Audyssey, pm me, I'll give you a run down on how to set it up, you'll need a cheap tripod.
TL;DR; you set it up with many positions around your room, step out of the room, it takes measurements, move the mic, repeat, it will setup the level for each channel and rebalance the audio based on the best effective way for your room. You no longer need to get out the tape measure and key in all the numbers, it also takes into account the different types of reverb floating around the room.

I've used it in everything from 2.1 to 7.2 systems, the before and after is simply stunning.
post #2756 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra View Post


If you opt for something with Audyssey, pm me, I'll give you a run down on how to set it up, you'll need a cheap tripod.
TL;DR; you set it up with many positions around your room, step out of the room, it takes measurements, move the mic, repeat, it will setup the level for each channel and rebalance the audio based on the best effective way for your room. You no longer need to get out the tape measure and key in all the numbers, it also takes into account the different types of reverb floating around the room.

I've used it in everything from 2.1 to 7.2 systems, the before and after is simply stunning.

Quick question then. Since the Audyssey room correction is via microphone input/feedback, it can work even if the Denon is set up to pre-out to my AMP 5, correct? I would think so.
post #2757 of 3244
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Quick question then. Since the Audyssey room correction is via microphone input/feedback, it can work even if the Denon is set up to pre-out to my AMP 5, correct? I would think so.

It will, it sends a sound to the mic, so after your connections are made and working, you do it's setup.
post #2758 of 3244
I still can't get an upgrade to my D7000 from firmware 1019 over the internet. Not is says no update available. But I've read of newer versions.

How do I download the firmware online to do a USB upgrade? On the support page there only seems to be the manual and the any share software available for download?
post #2759 of 3244
1st of all why do u feel it necessary to load the latest version? others have stated if it's working without issue to leave it well alone.

The only thing the 10.2x seems to deal with is 'flickering' during 3d viewing. If your 3d looks fine w/out issue then leave it as is.......
post #2760 of 3244
any of u synced up your 'vimeo' acct & play your 'likes' hd via the vimeo app? pretty amazing stuff......especially the time lapse stuff & gopro hd.

here's an example of how amazing the gopro hd stuff is:

http://vimeo.com/22669590
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