or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Onkyo TX-NR609, TX-NR509, TX-SR309 Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Onkyo TX-NR609, TX-NR509, TX-SR309 Thread - Page 118

post #3511 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by baralheia View Post

@Tesla1856: Native resolution of the VP322 is 1024 x 720. So 720p is technically native, .

 I forced the resolution of the Blu Ray player down to 720p, and the formerly problematic Netflix content is now playing trouble free.

 

Good, you got what I was getting at. 720p is HD and limiting helps things work with that 720p TV. When you get 1080p TV, that will work also (more normally, without limiting things to 720p)


Edited by Tesla1856 - 1/13/13 at 2:28pm
post #3512 of 3821
My Definitive Technology 8060 towers should be here this week. I am trying to visualize running Audessy with the powered towers. How does this work? Turn the bass knob down? Plug in LFE? Help please!
post #3513 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

My Definitive Technology 8060 towers should be here this week. I am trying to visualize running Audessy with the powered towers. How does this work? Turn the bass knob down? Plug in LFE? Help please!

Those are pretty awesome.

 

I'm guessing it would be like when I setup my Polk sub.

- Set any frequency knobs on sub to max (let Audyssey do the limiting or calibration).

- Set volume knob to 50% (and leave it there forever). You will know if this is right if Audyssey picks a volume level around -10 to +10. You just don't want Audyssey "bottoming out".

 

On my Polk sub, sure ... I connected LFE (of course). Not sure about those, but that's more of a question for DT guys or thread.

post #3514 of 3821
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84

My Definitive Technology 8060 towers should be here this week. I am trying to visualize running Audessy with the powered towers. How does this work? Turn the bass knob down? Plug in LFE? Help please!
Those are pretty awesome.

I'm guessing it would be like when I setup my Polk sub.
- Set any frequency knobs on sub to max (let Audyssey do the limiting or calibration).
- Set volume knob to 50% (and leave it there forever). You will know if this is right if Audyssey picks a volume level around -10 to +10. You just don't want Audyssey "bottoming out".

On my Polk sub, sure ... I connected LFE (of course). Not sure about those, but that's more of a question for DT guys or thread.

Well I will also be getting a HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. Dr. Hsu told me to run lfe to sub and not towers and gave the specific setting for the knobs on the sub in which there is a few. He did say to let the receiver set the crossover as you stated with letting Audyssey do the calibration. Set crossover on towers 60-80hz and let the more than capable sub handle to low hz's...
I'm just wondering when Audessy sends it's measuring 'chirps' out if the towers subs will make noise as well. DT has built in crossovers in the towers. But like you said Dt thread will probably yield more info. After CES Joe who works for Definitive will be back on the forum. I'll check with him.
post #3515 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post


Well I will also be getting a HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. Dr. Hsu told me to run lfe to sub and not towers and gave the specific setting for the knobs on the sub in which there is a few. He did say to let the receiver set the crossover as you stated with letting Audyssey do the calibration. Set crossover on towers 60-80hz and let the more than capable sub handle to low hz's...
I'm just wondering when Audessy sends it's measuring 'chirps' out if the towers subs will make noise as well. DT has built in crossovers in the towers. But like you said Dt thread will probably yield more info. After CES Joe who works for Definitive will be back on the forum. I'll check with him.

Sounds good. That is going to be house shaking.

 

I'm curious ... what Center are you running? I would think it would have to be large to match the rest.

post #3516 of 3821
Quote:
Sounds good. That is going to be house shaking.

I'm curious ... what Center are you running? I would think it would have to be large to match the rest.

I bought the package where you get the 8060 towers and get the 8040 center and surrounds free. 3k msrp for 2k. The Center has the exact same midrange drivers and tweeter as the towers...Same size. So the system will be 8040 center, 8060 towers, Pro Monitors 1000's (front high), 8040 surrounds and the HSU sub I will order this week after payday...It's going to be epic!
post #3517 of 3821
I'm looking to upgrade my onkyo TX-SR604 to a TX-NR609, would I notice a sound improvement?

I like the THX cert and the front HDMI (and more HDMI ports on the back)....just looking for opinions.

Thanks!
post #3518 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by baralheia View Post

@Tesla1856: Native resolution of the VP322 is 1024 x 720. So 720p is technically native, but the picture /seems/ better to my eyes at 1080i. I know it's either placebo effect or I'm crazy, but to me it does. The thing that's driving me crazy though is the TV apparently broadcasts 1080p support in it's EDID, as the Blu Ray player will configure itself to 1080p when directly connected to the TV, and the HD content I have available to me right now plays perfectly fine when directly connected.

I am not going to lie, the HDMI cables that are attached to the DVR and Blu Ray player are cheaper cables from Wal-Mart. The ones I'm using are the ONN 6' cables. They're decent enough quality, and I know that it can handle the higher res just fine, as I had the Blu Ray player plugged directly into the TV with one, and had zero problems. It's only when I connect the Blu Ray player through the AVR that I experience problems. But I've also tried some more expensive cables that I have - GE ones, I believe - to no effect.

HDMI-CEC is turned off on the AVR and on the Blu Ray Player; however, this did not have any positive effect.

Now, I did just try something: I forced the resolution of the Blu Ray player down to 720p, and the formerly problematic Netflix content is now playing trouble free. While this is temporarily okay, I don't consider this a long-term solution, as I do intend to upgrade the TV within the next year or so and do expect to be using the same AVR. But it does seem odd that the AVR seems quite happy at 720p or lower, but gets uppity at 1080i or 1080p.

So, in short:

All resolutions, directly connected to TV: No problems.
1080p, through AVR: No picture; TV responds "No Support"
1080i, through AVR: Picture looks great until I begin playing HD content; this triggers what seems to be HDMI handshaking issues (flashing between picture, static, and green; audio cuts out; and AVR display flashes)
720p, through AVR: No problems.
480i, through AVR: No problems.

Now the above I typed last night. This morning, i tried plugging the Blu Ray player directly into the TV again, and with every cable I have, it began to experience issues on 1080i and 1080p. The cable box DVR, however, was happily spitting 1080i out to the AVR, and the TV was happily displaying that signal. So I think I just had a defective Blu Ray player. Returned it this morning, until I can figure out which one to get next.

Thank you everyone for your help.

720p is 1280x720 and not 1024x768. The VP322 is a 720p Television and if you use any higher resolution it is not being output to the TV correctly. The best option that you have is to make sure that all sources are outputting only 720p. You do not need to have the AVR force the 720p resolution, it will be better to do it from the source. For example if you have a Roku box or a Blu-ray player go into it's settings and set the output to 720p.

If you are trying to use 1080i and 1080p, you are overdriving the display causing it to error out and not complete the handshake. You must use 720p or lower.
post #3519 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by am_dew View Post

FWIW, I have updated the firmware on my TX-NR609 with a hard-wired interenet connection several times without any issues. As they say, YMMV. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobearQSI View Post

I have also updated every time over the internet with no issues.

Prior to the firmware released in March 2012, there was a timing error in the HDMI 24p output (someone on here actually hooked it up to an HDMI analyzer and verified the timing was incorrect). The net result for me and some others was, when watching 24p, a frame would get dropped every few minutes (the video would just skip one frame). This was fixed in the March 2012 firmware, so you might want to update if you use 24p.

This was a 609 - I believe the error applied to the 509 as well but I'm not sure.

Thanks, y'all - the firmware update via the 'net worked flawlessly. The whole process took maybe 10-15 minutes over my newly hardwired connection! biggrin.gif Took me a few minutes to figure out how to stream Pandora but that is working great as well. The iPhone Onkyo remote app is pretty cool too. Thanks for your earlier feedback! Make it a great day!
post #3520 of 3821
Issues with Pandora Account Login

I finally set up my TX-NR609 yesterday and so far, so good. I have a lot to learn! The receiver has a hardwire Ethernet connection to the Internet, so this morning I downloaded the latest firmware update and installed it, which went just fine.

Then I went to NET and selected Pandora, "I have a Pandora account," and then tried several times VERY CAREFULLY and precisely to log in to Pandora. Each time, it said "Login error, please check account information." I made sure I wasn't leaving blank spaces at the end of the entries, misusing caps, etc etc etc.

I went to Pandora on my laptop and logged in and out a couple of times to make sure I was using the correct email address and password. (I have no issues logging in on my iPad, iPhone, etc.)

Are there any known issues / tricks with account log-in via the Onkyo interface?

Thanks for any advice.
post #3521 of 3821
Audyssey Documentation Mix-up?
Quote:
Originally Posted by chdwil View Post

I ran The auto setup again today. I tried the changed 1 2 3 positions mentioned earlier in the thread. 1 being right, 2 center, and 3 left. The manual says 1 center, 2 right , and 3 left. I have to agree that the manual is wrong. Position 1 works better to the right first not center.


Thanks to whoever discovered this.

Hey all,

Is the above still ringing true? After running auto setup, I noticed I am hearing Surround L much more than I am hearing Surround R. Wondering if the issue with the order of listening positions 1, 2 and 3 during setup has been confirmed.

Thanks.
Edited by gregger77 - 1/14/13 at 10:45am
post #3522 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregger77 View Post

Hey all,

Is the above still ringing true? After running auto setup, I noticed I am hearing Surround L much more than I am hearing Surround R. Wondering if the issue with the order of listening positions 1, 2 and 3 during setup has been confirmed.

Thanks.
To resolve this issue you will need to change the volume level of Surround L and Surround R until they sound about the same from the primary listening position.
Also, if I remember correctly, Listening position 1 should be leftmost, Position 2 should be rightmost, and position 3 should be center/mail listening position. It should tell you this as you are going through the Audyssey setup.
post #3523 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregger77 View Post

Issues with Pandora Account Login

I finally set up my TX-NR609 yesterday and so far, so good. I have a lot to learn! The receiver has a hardwire Ethernet connection to the Internet, so this morning I downloaded the latest firmware update and installed it, which went just fine.

Then I went to NET and selected Pandora, "I have a Pandora account," and then tried several times VERY CAREFULLY and precisely to log in to Pandora. Each time, it said "Login error, please check account information." I made sure I wasn't leaving blank spaces at the end of the entries, misusing caps, etc etc etc.

I went to Pandora on my laptop and logged in and out a couple of times to make sure I was using the correct email address and password. (I have no issues logging in on my iPad, iPhone, etc.)

Are there any known issues / tricks with account log-in via the Onkyo interface?

Thanks for any advice.

gregger, I set up Pandora on my 509 over the weekend. I think I ran into an issue similar to yours and was able to solve it so I might be able to help. Only problem is that I'm not at home right now so can't document the exact steps. If you're unable to resolve this before tonight, I'll sit down and write up what I did when I get home. I'm pretty sure you have to be logged in to your account on the Pandora web site in order for this to work.
post #3524 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloziraptor View Post

I'm looking to upgrade my onkyo TX-SR604 to a TX-NR609, would I notice a sound improvement?

I like the THX cert and the front HDMI (and more HDMI ports on the back)....just looking for opinions.

Thanks!

smile.gif
post #3525 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

I'm pretty sure you have to be logged in to your account on the Pandora web site in order for this to work.

That seems to have done the trick, thanks!!

-- G.
post #3526 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by raistline View Post

720p is 1280x720 and not 1024x768. The VP322 is a 720p Television and if you use any higher resolution it is not being output to the TV correctly. The best option that you have is to make sure that all sources are outputting only 720p. You do not need to have the AVR force the 720p resolution, it will be better to do it from the source. For example if you have a Roku box or a Blu-ray player go into it's settings and set the output to 720p.

If you are trying to use 1080i and 1080p, you are overdriving the display causing it to error out and not complete the handshake. You must use 720p or lower.

Actually, no, according to the service manual, the Vizio VP322 uses a plasma display panel sourced from LG (LGE P/N PDP32G1) which has a native resolution of 1024 x 720. That's why I said "So, 720p is technically native." However, I'm not overdriving anything - the input board can and does recognize input resolutions up to 1080p and will downsample them accordingly. As I mentioned before, the Scientific Atlanta DVR is quite happily pushing 1080i to the display through the AVR without issue - the TV even shows me that the input source is 1080i. The problem was the HDMI handshaking between the AVR and the Blu-Ray player, which ultimately was the fault of the Blu Ray player - it began freezing on me, and then wouldn't properly output video directly to the display in any mode. So, I've taken the player back, and now I'm just trying to figure out which player to get next.
post #3527 of 3821
I HAVE A 509 receiver which i couldn't for the life of me update via the net or usb, it would time out. so i reset the receiver and after the update worked with no trouble
post #3528 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloziraptor View Post

I'm looking to upgrade my onkyo TX-SR604 to a TX-NR609, would I notice a sound improvement?

I like the THX cert and the front HDMI (and more HDMI ports on the back)....just looking for opinions.

Thanks!

Let's see, you're talking about 5 models back? Yeah, I think you'd hear a difference. I love the sound quality of my 609.
post #3529 of 3821
HI all,
I'm running a 609 with a set of energy rc70's, rc 10's and a rc-lcr. I know the audyssey 2 eq doesn't eq the bass, but how does it work. Does it not eq below a certain frequency like 80 or 100 hz or does it just not eq coming out of the sub or is it just the .1 channel? I would like to know where the cutoff is. Also any audysssey setup tips for the 609

Thanks
post #3530 of 3821
Sorry if this has posted before: My current setup is 7.1 speakers with my nr609. However, we are moving and mounting speakers on the ceiling or placing them anywhere is not an option right now. I was thinking of getting a sound bar but I don't want to lose the many great features of the 609. Will a sound bar work with the 609? If so, how do you hook it up and which ones are recommended?
post #3531 of 3821
I thought most soundbars were self-powered. You basically pass HDMI through them, and they pick out the audio.
post #3532 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrippe View Post

I was thinking of getting a sound bar but I don't want to lose the many great features of the 609. Will a sound bar work with the 609? If so, how do you hook it up and which ones are recommended?

I just bought a Toshiba SBX4250. Not exactly a high-end soundbar, but it has the HDMI inputs and features I was looking for and it sounds far superior to the TV speakers which is why I wanted it. The only negative to my model is the bluetooth support. Beyond a few feet, the signal strength goes to hell. But I digress wink.gif

A soundbar off of a receiver sounds like a Zone 2-type application where the Zone 2 speakers are powered. As andyross points out,soundbars are self powered, have their own sound processors, etc. So you probably should be able to get it to work with your 609, most likely through the Zone 2 output. You'd follow the instructions to connect to an additional amplifier (set powered Zone 2 to "no). My soundbar has L/R RCA line in so just make sure if you go this route, you get a soundbar that has this. I'd be willing to bet that most do. Would be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Edit

I just realized the other part of your post, which is that you don't want to lose the 609 features. So here's the catch (pasted from the 609 manual):

"Only analog input sources are output from the ZONE 2 LINE OUT L/R jacks and ZONE 2 L/R terminals. Digital input sources are not output. If no sound is heard when an input source is selected, verify that the source is connected to an analog input.

I think this means that sources such as HDMI-connected STB, BDP, etc. will ultimately not play through the soundbar. So you do lose some functionality.
Edited by jonny-zed - 2/2/13 at 6:43am
post #3533 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

I just bought a Toshiba SBX4250. Not exactly a high-end soundbar, but it has the HDMI inputs and features I was looking for and it sounds far superior to the TV speakers which is why I wanted it. The only negative to my model is the bluetooth support. Beyond a few feet, the signal strength goes to hell. But I digress wink.gif

A soundbar off of a receiver sounds like a Zone 2-type application where the Zone 2 speakers are powered. As andyross points out,soundbars are self powered, have their own sound processors, etc. So you probably should be able to get it to work with your 609, most likely through the Zone 2 output. You'd follow the instructions to connect to an additional amplifier (set powered Zone 2 to "no). My soundbar has L/R RCA line in so just make sure if you go this route, you get a soundbar that has this. I'd be willing to bet that most do. Would be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Edit

I just realized the other part of your post, which is that you don't want to lose the 609 features. So here's the catch (pasted from the 609 manual):

"Only analog input sources are output from the ZONE 2 LINE OUT L/R jacks and ZONE 2 L/R terminals. Digital input sources are not output. If no sound is heard when an input source is selected, verify that the source is connected to an analog input.

I think this means that sources such as HDMI-connected STB, BDP, etc. will ultimately not play through the soundbar. So you do lose some functionality.

Thanks for the input. Doesn't sound like a soundbar is a good option. My TV will be on a built-in bookshelf with a cabinet underneath for the receiver. Maybe I will just put the front speakers and center channel speaker on the shelves about and go 3.1 for not. I'll also have to get a wireless adapter for my subwoofer. Will this setup still sound good? Is this basically the same thing as a sound bar?

What about this soundbar that has three separate inputs? I could still hook up my to the receiver and get speaker wire to RCA adapters to the speaker bar.
Edited by jtrippe - 2/2/13 at 7:21am
post #3534 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrippe View Post

Thanks for the input. Doesn't sound like a soundbar is a good option. My TV will be on a built-in bookshelf with a cabinet underneath for the receiver. Maybe I will just put the front speakers and center channel speaker on the shelves about and go 3.1 for not. I'll also have to get a wireless adapter for my subwoofer. Will this setup still sound good? Is this basically the same thing as a sound bar?

What about this soundbar that has three separate inputs? I could still hook up my to the receiver and get speaker wire to RCA adapters to the speaker bar.

If you get even semi-decent speakers doing this will give you much better sound than most soundbars can produce. What you are proposing is an excellent idea. Granted you won't get the full 5.1 sound but you will still get great audio that is leagues better than TV and much better than most soundbars.
post #3535 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by raistline View Post

If you get even semi-decent speakers doing this will give you much better sound than most soundbars can produce. What you are proposing is an excellent idea. Granted you won't get the full 5.1 sound but you will still get great audio that is leagues better than TV and much better than most soundbars.

Thanks! So I'll just go with the 3.1 sound then and get the wireless adapter for my subwoofer. I'll also get an estimate on wire runs and mounts for the rear and side speakers but I think the costs may be too high right now after all of the other moving expenses. I can then add the side and rear speakers when I have the funds.
post #3536 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by killa2009 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by six7vdub View Post

Every time I turn the receiver on, it turns on in VCR /DVR mode. How do I get it to default to CBL / SAT mode? I have no input selected for VCR / DVR and have no need for it at this time.


Does anyone have a answer for this question?

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
anyone? Help

Sent from my skz_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
post #3537 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by killa2009 View Post

anyone? Help
So nothing is plugged into the VCR/DVR input? Are you pushing the power button on the front panel of the receiver to turn it on?
post #3538 of 3821
I have a question regarding my Tx-NR609 and the Audyssey setup. I apologize if it's been covered in this thread or the audyssey thread but there are a lot of pages to read through.

I ran the audyssey 2eq setup this morning and when it finished I went into my settings to look at where the crossovers were set. In the menu that shows crossovers, I switched the sub setting from "Yes" to "No" and then back to "Yes". This caused my fronts to go from 100Hz to full.

It would seem that just cycling through the settings for the sub derailed my audyssey calibration. From what I have read the best case scenario here is that the front correction remained down to 100Hz and frequencies below that are not corrected.

My question is this... Did turning the sub off and back on cause a situation where I need to run Audyssey again?

Alternatively, would restoring the sub to on ("YES") and fronts to a crossover of 100Hz put me back to where I was after running Audyssey originally?

If my explanation is confusing let me know and I will try to do a better job.
post #3539 of 3821
Does the 609 have a night mode where the bass is diminished?
post #3540 of 3821
Just turn on the headphones
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Onkyo TX-NR609, TX-NR509, TX-SR309 Thread