Onkyo TX-NR609, TX-NR509, TX-SR309 Thread - Page 118

Originally Posted by baralheia 

@Tesla1856: Native resolution of the VP322 is 1024 x 720. So 720p is technically native, .

 I forced the resolution of the Blu Ray player down to 720p, and the formerly problematic Netflix content is now playing trouble free.

Originally Posted by jlpowell84 

My Definitive Technology 8060 towers should be here this week. I am trying to visualize running Audessy with the powered towers. How does this work? Turn the bass knob down? Plug in LFE? Help please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84

My Definitive Technology 8060 towers should be here this week. I am trying to visualize running Audessy with the powered towers. How does this work? Turn the bass knob down? Plug in LFE? Help please!
Those are pretty awesome.

I'm guessing it would be like when I setup my Polk sub.
- Set any frequency knobs on sub to max (let Audyssey do the limiting or calibration).
- Set volume knob to 50% (and leave it there forever). You will know if this is right if Audyssey picks a volume level around -10 to +10. You just don't want Audyssey "bottoming out".

On my Polk sub, sure ... I connected LFE (of course). Not sure about those, but that's more of a question for DT guys or thread.

Originally Posted by jlpowell84 


Well I will also be getting a HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. Dr. Hsu told me to run lfe to sub and not towers and gave the specific setting for the knobs on the sub in which there is a few. He did say to let the receiver set the crossover as you stated with letting Audyssey do the calibration. Set crossover on towers 60-80hz and let the more than capable sub handle to low hz's...
I'm just wondering when Audessy sends it's measuring 'chirps' out if the towers subs will make noise as well. DT has built in crossovers in the towers. But like you said Dt thread will probably yield more info. After CES Joe who works for Definitive will be back on the forum. I'll check with him.

Sounds good. That is going to be house shaking.

I'm curious ... what Center are you running? I would think it would have to be large to match the rest.

Originally Posted by baralheia 

@Tesla1856: Native resolution of the VP322 is 1024 x 720. So 720p is technically native, but the picture /seems/ better to my eyes at 1080i. I know it's either placebo effect or I'm crazy, but to me it does. The thing that's driving me crazy though is the TV apparently broadcasts 1080p support in it's EDID, as the Blu Ray player will configure itself to 1080p when directly connected to the TV, and the HD content I have available to me right now plays perfectly fine when directly connected.

I am not going to lie, the HDMI cables that are attached to the DVR and Blu Ray player are cheaper cables from Wal-Mart. The ones I'm using are the ONN 6' cables. They're decent enough quality, and I know that it can handle the higher res just fine, as I had the Blu Ray player plugged directly into the TV with one, and had zero problems. It's only when I connect the Blu Ray player through the AVR that I experience problems. But I've also tried some more expensive cables that I have - GE ones, I believe - to no effect.

HDMI-CEC is turned off on the AVR and on the Blu Ray Player; however, this did not have any positive effect.

Now, I did just try something: I forced the resolution of the Blu Ray player down to 720p, and the formerly problematic Netflix content is now playing trouble free. While this is temporarily okay, I don't consider this a long-term solution, as I do intend to upgrade the TV within the next year or so and do expect to be using the same AVR. But it does seem odd that the AVR seems quite happy at 720p or lower, but gets uppity at 1080i or 1080p.

So, in short:

All resolutions, directly connected to TV: No problems.
1080p, through AVR: No picture; TV responds "No Support"
1080i, through AVR: Picture looks great until I begin playing HD content; this triggers what seems to be HDMI handshaking issues (flashing between picture, static, and green; audio cuts out; and AVR display flashes)
720p, through AVR: No problems.
480i, through AVR: No problems.

Now the above I typed last night. This morning, i tried plugging the Blu Ray player directly into the TV again, and with every cable I have, it began to experience issues on 1080i and 1080p. The cable box DVR, however, was happily spitting 1080i out to the AVR, and the TV was happily displaying that signal. So I think I just had a defective Blu Ray player. Returned it this morning, until I can figure out which one to get next.

Thank you everyone for your help.

Originally Posted by am_dew 

FWIW, I have updated the firmware on my TX-NR609 with a hard-wired interenet connection several times without any issues. As they say, YMMV.

Originally Posted by BobearQSI 

I have also updated every time over the internet with no issues.

Prior to the firmware released in March 2012, there was a timing error in the HDMI 24p output (someone on here actually hooked it up to an HDMI analyzer and verified the timing was incorrect). The net result for me and some others was, when watching 24p, a frame would get dropped every few minutes (the video would just skip one frame). This was fixed in the March 2012 firmware, so you might want to update if you use 24p.

This was a 609 - I believe the error applied to the 509 as well but I'm not sure.

Originally Posted by chdwil 

I ran The auto setup again today. I tried the changed 1 2 3 positions mentioned earlier in the thread. 1 being right, 2 center, and 3 left. The manual says 1 center, 2 right , and 3 left. I have to agree that the manual is wrong. Position 1 works better to the right first not center.


Thanks to whoever discovered this.

Originally Posted by gregger77 

Hey all,

Is the above still ringing true? After running auto setup, I noticed I am hearing Surround L much more than I am hearing Surround R. Wondering if the issue with the order of listening positions 1, 2 and 3 during setup has been confirmed.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by gregger77 

Issues with Pandora Account Login

I finally set up my TX-NR609 yesterday and so far, so good. I have a lot to learn! The receiver has a hardwire Ethernet connection to the Internet, so this morning I downloaded the latest firmware update and installed it, which went just fine.

Then I went to NET and selected Pandora, "I have a Pandora account," and then tried several times VERY CAREFULLY and precisely to log in to Pandora. Each time, it said "Login error, please check account information." I made sure I wasn't leaving blank spaces at the end of the entries, misusing caps, etc etc etc.

I went to Pandora on my laptop and logged in and out a couple of times to make sure I was using the correct email address and password. (I have no issues logging in on my iPad, iPhone, etc.)

Are there any known issues / tricks with account log-in via the Onkyo interface?

Thanks for any advice.

Originally Posted by Veloziraptor 

I'm looking to upgrade my onkyo TX-SR604 to a TX-NR609, would I notice a sound improvement?

I like the THX cert and the front HDMI (and more HDMI ports on the back)....just looking for opinions.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jonny-zed 

I'm pretty sure you have to be logged in to your account on the Pandora web site in order for this to work.

Originally Posted by raistline 

720p is 1280x720 and not 1024x768. The VP322 is a 720p Television and if you use any higher resolution it is not being output to the TV correctly. The best option that you have is to make sure that all sources are outputting only 720p. You do not need to have the AVR force the 720p resolution, it will be better to do it from the source. For example if you have a Roku box or a Blu-ray player go into it's settings and set the output to 720p.

If you are trying to use 1080i and 1080p, you are overdriving the display causing it to error out and not complete the handshake. You must use 720p or lower.

Originally Posted by Veloziraptor 

I'm looking to upgrade my onkyo TX-SR604 to a TX-NR609, would I notice a sound improvement?

I like the THX cert and the front HDMI (and more HDMI ports on the back)....just looking for opinions.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jtrippe 

I was thinking of getting a sound bar but I don't want to lose the many great features of the 609. Will a sound bar work with the 609? If so, how do you hook it up and which ones are recommended?

Originally Posted by jonny-zed 

I just bought a Toshiba SBX4250. Not exactly a high-end soundbar, but it has the HDMI inputs and features I was looking for and it sounds far superior to the TV speakers which is why I wanted it. The only negative to my model is the bluetooth support. Beyond a few feet, the signal strength goes to hell. But I digress

A soundbar off of a receiver sounds like a Zone 2-type application where the Zone 2 speakers are powered. As andyross points out,soundbars are self powered, have their own sound processors, etc. So you probably should be able to get it to work with your 609, most likely through the Zone 2 output. You'd follow the instructions to connect to an additional amplifier (set powered Zone 2 to "no). My soundbar has L/R RCA line in so just make sure if you go this route, you get a soundbar that has this. I'd be willing to bet that most do. Would be interested to hear how it works out for you.

Edit

I just realized the other part of your post, which is that you don't want to lose the 609 features. So here's the catch (pasted from the 609 manual):

"Only analog input sources are output from the ZONE 2 LINE OUT L/R jacks and ZONE 2 L/R terminals. Digital input sources are not output. If no sound is heard when an input source is selected, verify that the source is connected to an analog input.

I think this means that sources such as HDMI-connected STB, BDP, etc. will ultimately not play through the soundbar. So you do lose some functionality.

Originally Posted by jtrippe 

Thanks for the input. Doesn't sound like a soundbar is a good option. My TV will be on a built-in bookshelf with a cabinet underneath for the receiver. Maybe I will just put the front speakers and center channel speaker on the shelves about and go 3.1 for not. I'll also have to get a wireless adapter for my subwoofer. Will this setup still sound good? Is this basically the same thing as a sound bar?

What about this soundbar that has three separate inputs? I could still hook up my to the receiver and get speaker wire to RCA adapters to the speaker bar.

Originally Posted by raistline 

If you get even semi-decent speakers doing this will give you much better sound than most soundbars can produce. What you are proposing is an excellent idea. Granted you won't get the full 5.1 sound but you will still get great audio that is leagues better than TV and much better than most soundbars.

Originally Posted by killa2009 



Does anyone have a answer for this question?

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by killa2009 

anyone? Help