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Onkyo TX-NR609, TX-NR509, TX-SR309 Thread - Page 120

post #3571 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla1856 View Post

Too bad you can't use HDMI.

Strange problem because I thought analog inputs always worked, meaning, you can't really turn them off. Has to be that way in case you want to use Zone2 (which only works with analog signals).

Now, with SPDIF (optical or coax) I'm sure you saw that those input ports are assignable.

Yea, I let out a sigh when I seen how old his stuff was. He owns a dental lab so maybe I can talk him into upgrading. Anyway I didn't know they were assignable. That will allow me to optical the sat box and DVD player and use the only working analog for the VCR. Still has me wondering why the others won't work.
post #3572 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Hey 609ers...on Saturday I set up a 5.1 with this receiver for a friend. He has an older TV, DVD, player, VCR, and dish satellite box. I left all the video connections running to the TV and simply was going run the analog inputs to DVD, VCR, and sat in. I can't get any sound from any though. I can only get sound through the optical which I used for the sat box, and the TV analog input all the way on the left which I used for the DVD player. I have the setting exactly the same for DVD in as the TV in. Suggestions?cool.gif

Not sure if this helps but....

Somewhere in the settings menu there is a screen that lets you associate each input with there associated connections on the back of the receiver. This is from memory but I believe that the way it is set up you plug in the video connections to the ports associated with the pre labeled functions and in the menu you can assign each video source any audio source you want.
post #3573 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post


Yea, I let out a sigh when I seen how old his stuff was. He owns a dental lab so maybe I can talk him into upgrading. Anyway I didn't know they were assignable. That will allow me to optical the sat box and DVD player and use the only working analog for the VCR. Still has me wondering why the others won't work.

For the SPDIF capable stuff ... cool. Yes, anything that can be upgraded to SPDIF should be because that way you can get Dolby Digital 5.1 bitstream to amp. I would also use 3-wire Component for video as allowed (next best to HDMI and can to 720p).

 

For analog ... Take a phone/Mp3 player with you for testing:

 

 http://techchannel.radioshack.com/connect-mp3-player-stereo-amplifier-1119.html

 

And a known-good analog stereo RCA cable.

If you find one analog device that works, it can be connected to all other stereo inputs to verify the amp is working.

 

You can check your Listening Modes, but I don't think they allow impossible or mis-matched modes (but they might).

 

Because of Zone2 requirements (see above) you shouldn't have to ... but you could try removing HDMI and SPDIF from any Input that will only be analog.

 

If you haven't made a lot of settings (you can't remember) and Defaults Reset might be in order. If this unit is not new or someone has been playing with settings ... no telling what all is programmed into it. Worse-case, it might have been dropped or is otherwise malfunctioning.

 

These steps should help troubleshoot. Sorry for vauge-ness, but I've never actually used analog on my Onkyo (except for MP3 player once in the front Aux). At one time, I had some VGA, Component, and SPDIF ... but now it's all HDMI. 

 

Edit: Oh, and have manual or PDF with you.

post #3574 of 3821
Apologies for YAZ2 Question (Yet Another Zone 2), but I would like to ensure that what I believe is happening is expected, as well as get appropriate advice for what I'd like to do.

First, the ingredients:
  • Onkyo NR-609
  • 5.1 speaker set
  • Plans for Zone 2 out, feeding two different pairs of speakers with an in-wall volume control per pair.

I'm making the assumption that the Zone 2 speakers will originate from the Zone 2 bare-wire connectors that are immediately to the left of the 7.1 jacks. Zone 2 speaker setting on receiver set to "Powered: Yes"

And now, the various inputs:
  • TiVo, connected via component video, RCA audio
  • PS3, connected via HDMI
  • Roku, connected via HDMI
  • AppleTV, connected via HDMI
  • Stereo (via Onkyo)
  • Net streaming apps (via Onkyo)

What I've done thus far is merely testing. While everything plays just fine over the primary speaker channels, I have not heard any audio via the PS3, Roku, or AppleTV that were connected solely via HDMI. Which is not completely unexpected, if how I interpreted the manual correctly regarding how Zone 2 would not support digital audio input.

So what options would you suggest for as fully-as-possible implementing a Zone 2 solution that would allow playback of that HDMI audio?

Do I get a set of "HDMI Audio Extractors" like http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4036 (thx, Google!), and plug into the appropriate/matching RCA jacks? If so, then how does that affect Zone 1 listening experience?

Of course, Amazon reviews say that that device won't work with AppleTV and recommends http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO instead. Couldn't find a comparable item on Monoprice.

I figure for just one HDMI application, the solution would be relatively easy. Is it still the same if I'm looking at more than one HDMI entries?

Thanks in advance for whatever recommendations you can provide.
post #3575 of 3821
Just wondering if there are any updates on the Roku2/Onkyo video issues? Anyone try the new Roku3?
post #3576 of 3821
@andyross63: I use a Roku2 w/ the NR-609 and have not experienced any issue. What problems are you referring to?
post #3577 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebG View Post

@andyross63: I use a Roku2 w/ the NR-609 and have not experienced any issue. What problems are you referring to?

And I see you're talking specifically Netflix on Roku. Can't help you there. frown.gif
post #3578 of 3821
I have the 609 with a Wifi Dongle connected.

My problem is this:

I changed internet providers and need to erase the old info and enter the new info and password, but it has been very tricky.

The manual does not help at all.

Please help!eek.gif

Thanx.
post #3579 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebG View Post

Apologies for YAZ2 Question (Yet Another Zone 2), but I would like to ensure that what I believe is happening is expected, as well as get appropriate advice for what I'd like to do.

First, the ingredients:
  • Onkyo NR-609
  • 5.1 speaker set
  • Plans for Zone 2 out, feeding two different pairs of speakers with an in-wall volume control per pair.

I'm making the assumption that the Zone 2 speakers will originate from the Zone 2 bare-wire connectors that are immediately to the left of the 7.1 jacks. Zone 2 speaker setting on receiver set to "Powered: Yes"

And now, the various inputs:
  • TiVo, connected via component video, RCA audio
  • PS3, connected via HDMI
  • Roku, connected via HDMI
  • AppleTV, connected via HDMI
  • Stereo (via Onkyo)
  • Net streaming apps (via Onkyo)

What I've done thus far is merely testing. While everything plays just fine over the primary speaker channels, I have not heard any audio via the PS3, Roku, or AppleTV that were connected solely via HDMI. Which is not completely unexpected, if how I interpreted the manual correctly regarding how Zone 2 would not support digital audio input.

So what options would you suggest for as fully-as-possible implementing a Zone 2 solution that would allow playback of that HDMI audio?

Do I get a set of "HDMI Audio Extractors" like http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4036 (thx, Google!), and plug into the appropriate/matching RCA jacks? If so, then how does that affect Zone 1 listening experience?

Of course, Amazon reviews say that that device won't work with AppleTV and recommends http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO instead. Couldn't find a comparable item on Monoprice.

I figure for just one HDMI application, the solution would be relatively easy. Is it still the same if I'm looking at more than one HDMI entries?

Thanks in advance for whatever recommendations you can provide.

run the HDMI as well as the RCA level connectors
for the ps3 you need to by the scart connector,
for roku i assume the one you have has rca level jacks
as far as the apple tv you could use the headphone out if it has one?

for radio and streaming apps they will just work without any additional wires
post #3580 of 3821
and furthermore, don't spend the money on those extractors just run the extra cables.
i often use a y connector rca with 1/8 mini cable (like the green connector wire for pc audio)

this should cost you less than 8.00 a run if you don't already have what you need.

you could get this for PS3
http://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Component-Packaging-Sony-2-3/dp/B0032Z4OMA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364074667&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+scart
post #3581 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinwoodward View Post

run the HDMI as well as the RCA level connectors
for the ps3 you need to by the scart connector,
for roku i assume the one you have has rca level jacks
as far as the apple tv you could use the headphone out if it has one?

for radio and streaming apps they will just work without any additional wires

and furthermore, don't spend the money on those extractors just run the extra cables. i often use a y connector rca with 1/8 mini cable (like the green connector wire for pc audio) this should cost you less than 8.00 a run if you don't already have what you need.

you could get this for PS3
http://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Component-Packaging-Sony-2-3/dp/B0032Z4OMA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364074667&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+scart

Thanks for the reply.

For the PS3, I'll investigate the scart connector. Can it run in conjunction with the HDMI out, or is it "instead of"?

Didn't realize the Roku2XS had a mini-jack. I will run a mini-to-RCA per your suggestion.

AppleTV v2 does not have a headphone jack, but it does have an optical-out... so one of those optical-to-analog converters would definitely be better than an HDMI audio extractor in this case, I suppose. Better than nothing, but at least better than having multiple breakout boxes.

==--==

So while all that is being configured, any concerns about having the bare-wire Zone2 OUT being used for two different pair of speakers? Or should I investigate feeding an in-line Amplifier and connecting the two sets of speakers to the amp instead? Maybe something like http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header or the slightly smaller http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U29IGG ? While both sets of Zone2 speakers will have individual audio controls, I'm fine with the audio being the same on both areas.
post #3582 of 3821
Is there any way to completely turn off these receivers, as opposed to simply placing it into standby? The reason I ask, is I have a switched power strip (the Belkin Conserve Socket) that can have a master device plugged in, when turned on the powerstrip provides power to the remaining devices plugged in to it. It's a great way to kill any standby power that a lot of devices consume.
post #3583 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennynihon View Post

Is there any way to completely turn off these receivers, as opposed to simply placing it into standby? The reason I ask, is I have a switched power strip (the Belkin Conserve Socket) that can have a master device plugged in, when turned on the powerstrip provides power to the remaining devices plugged in to it. It's a great way to kill any standby power that a lot of devices consume.

I don't know the answer, however I have some input on the subject.

 

For the remote to be able to turn-on AVR from Stand-By, a certain part of the AVR must be "on" for it to respond to the IR commands. Sorta like a PC that's only "Sleeping".

 

For the AVR to respond to RIHD or HDMI-CEC the HDMI board (and likely other parts) also have to be "on" to respond to commands.

 

Anyway, something has to stay on to (to respond to IR) and be the Master for the strip. I have a similar strip, but it has a variable adjustment to control the amps required to activate the other switched plugs.

post #3584 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennynihon View Post

Is there any way to completely turn off these receivers, as opposed to simply placing it into standby? The reason I ask, is I have a switched power strip (the Belkin Conserve Socket) that can have a master device plugged in, when turned on the powerstrip provides power to the remaining devices plugged in to it. It's a great way to kill any standby power that a lot of devices consume.
It can't go 100% off (true for most anything that support a remote control), but it can go into a deep sleep if you disable a few features such as HDMI pass-thru and Network control. Basically, if you turn it off and it stays warm, then it's still in high-power standby. If it's cool, then it's in deep sleep.
post #3585 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyross63 View Post

It can't go 100% off (true for most anything that support a remote control), but it can go into a deep sleep if you disable a few features such as HDMI pass-thru and Network control. Basically, if you turn it off and it stays warm, then it's still in high-power standby. If it's cool, then it's in deep sleep.

Thanks guys for the quick responses. Disabling HDMI pass-thru did the trick and got it below my power strip's current threshold. smile.gif
post #3586 of 3821
OK, maybe you can help me out with one more thing smile.gif For some reason I cannot enable Dynamic EQ or Dyanmic Volume. When I go into Setup and then Source Setup, Audyssey, Dynamic EQ, and Dynamic Volume are all grayed out. It's just a simple Blu-ray player connected as an HDMI input and sending Dolby Digital surround sound audio over HDMI. What gives?
post #3587 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennynihon View Post

OK, maybe you can help me out with one more thing smile.gif For some reason I cannot enable Dynamic EQ or Dyanmic Volume. When I go into Setup and then Source Setup, Audyssey, Dynamic EQ, and Dynamic Volume are all grayed out. It's just a simple Blu-ray player connected as an HDMI input and sending Dolby Digital surround sound audio over HDMI. What gives?

Looks like I need to run the Audyssey setup I suppose.
post #3588 of 3821
USB PROBLEM. For some reason my iPod/iPhone won't connect and initalize via front USB port.
It worked before and simply stopped. Any help/troubleshoot anyone?
post #3589 of 3821
Has anyone had to reset their 609 because the HDMI out stopped working? I had to do just that last night in order to get the HDMI out working again. I could hear audio through my 5.1 speaker system attached to the 609 but no video or audio was making it to my Vizio LCD. I tried everything to troubleshoot, but it came down to the fact that the 609 was not outputting anything through the HDMI out. Of course, I lost all my custom settings and Audyssey calibration due to the reset. I sure hope this is not the start of more problems.
post #3590 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by am_dew View Post

Has anyone had to reset their 609 because the HDMI out stopped working?
Yep...
post #3591 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by am_dew View Post

Has anyone had to reset their 609 because the HDMI out stopped working? I had to do just that last night in order to get the HDMI out working again. I could hear audio through my 5.1 speaker system attached to the 609 but no video or audio was making it to my Vizio LCD. I tried everything to troubleshoot, but it came down to the fact that the 609 was not outputting anything through the HDMI out. Of course, I lost all my custom settings and Audyssey calibration due to the reset. I sure hope this is not the start of more problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMoreDigital View Post

Yep...

Any idea what the issue is? And is it likely to happen again?
post #3592 of 3821
I have a couple of questions that maybe you guys could answer. I bought the Onkyo TX-NR509. I am trying to build a 5.1 system. So far I have also purchased a pair of Infinity Primus p363 towers, and a pair of Infinity Primus P163 bookshelf speakers. I still need the 2 most important speakers, the center channel and sub. I will probably go with the Infinity Primus PC351 center channel and I'm not sure what sub.

So my questions are:
Im a bit of a noob.

1. So is this Onkyo TX-NR509 good enought to drive all these speakers?

2. Any recommendations on a sub?

I've been doing tons of research and the 3 I'm leaning towards is BIC F12, BIC PL-200, Polk Audio PSW505 (this choice is based on so many 5 star reviews it has on Amazon)

Also. Does anyone know if salesavo.com is legit?

Found the center channel for $163: Link

Thanks
post #3593 of 3821
ddtmm--

Regarding your first question, Infinity speakers are known for being efficient. The p363 towers meet that standard with a sensitivity rating of 92db. I can't imagine you would have a problem, unless your HT room is the size of an airplane hangar. That's my two cents.
post #3594 of 3821
Thanks a lot! I haven't set anything up since I'm moving soon but wanted to double check just to make sure before the return period is up on the receiver.
post #3595 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddtmm View Post

I will probably go with the Infinity Primus PC351 center channel and I'm not sure what sub.

2. Any recommendations on a sub?

Polk Audio PSW505 (this choice is based on so many 5 star reviews it has on Amazon)

 

PC351 appears to be the matching center speaker. Yes, I would go larger (not smaller like 251).

 

Personally, I would pick it up on Amazon under Prime. No mystery or surprises.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Infinity+Primus

 

I like my new PSW-505. I have an old Infinity sub in my secondary room (used to be my main sub for like 10 years). I've also heard good things about BIC ... I could be wrong, but they seem about like Polk, Infinity, etc. (nicer mainstream retail consumer brands). Tough call.

post #3596 of 3821
Is there anyway to have the ipod retain control instead of giving it over to the Receiver (NR-509)? I just find it less clunky to directly control using the ipod through USB.

At first, the receiver didn't try to get control of the ipod, but then one day it took over.

The manual says "you can control your Ipod/Iphone when "PORT" is selected as the input source", but that seems to do nothing, it still grabs control of my ipod.
post #3597 of 3821
I have two 509 receivers and one of them makes a clicking sound everytime the audio changes from dolby to mono depending on the ad. The first 509 that I got didn't make clicking sounds like this. Is this something I should be worried about? I have 5 speakers and a sub hooked up.

Thanks
post #3598 of 3821
Quote:
Originally Posted by lurch0101 View Post

I have two 509 receivers and one of them makes a clicking sound everytime the audio changes from dolby to mono depending on the ad. The first 509 that I got didn't make clicking sounds like this. Is this something I should be worried about? I have 5 speakers and a sub hooked up.

Thanks

I think they all do that on digital input (depends on channel and commericials). On the DVR Input, I translate most multi-channel formats to Studio-Mix and that takes care of it. If watching a whole movie on HBO, I just switch the Listening Mode to a true AC3/DTS one.

post #3599 of 3821
TX-NR609 owner here having some video issues.

My inputs, all through HDMI: tivo, ps3, xbox 360, wdtv, apple tv. the NR609 upscales everything to 1080p

the other day while playing PS3 I noticed that on black screens I saw some white "sparkles" flicking in and out, very subtle but annoying once you notice they are there, I was able to reproduce this on both the PS3 and the 360. I never see these on any other devices. if I switch the receiver to not upscale and I set PS3 to 720p the sparkles go away.

after doing some google-fu it seems that white sparkles usually means a bad HDMI cable. so I grab a cable from another room and switch out the HDMI going from the receiver to the TV. Everything is now worse, I get pink/green picture and or flickering on the TiVo input and the ps3 input is just static. go back to the original cable, picture on most inputs is fine, ps3/360 I get subtle white sparkles

thinking maybe I am super unlucky and I have 2 bad cables, I order a new HDMI cable from a different brand from amazon, today I try to use that cable from the HDMI to the TV and same thing, horrible picture everything. go back to original cable fine picture on most inputs, white sparkles on ps3/360

I try any of these HDMI cables going straight from the PS3 to the TV and I get a perfect clear picture.

does anyone have any ideas? is my receiver just busted? I've read lots of bad things about onkyo and HDMI lately, if that's the case why would one HDMI cable be less bad than others? Honestly the white sparkles aren't bad and from far away you can't even notice, I would just hate to think it would get worse. I've had the receiver for a little less than 2 years.

any help would be greatly appreciated

edit: one thing I just remembered is that when I'm watching a bluray on PS3 I never get the white sparkles, it's only when in menus or playing games
Edited by icespide - 4/5/13 at 3:45pm
post #3600 of 3821
What happens if you disable upscaling and put it in pass-thru mode?
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