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Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 12

post #331 of 978
1/8/12 at 12:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post


If you tried to power it up with the cable not plugged in all the way it may have fried the emitter. I know they had a cable problem. I fired my first emitter but it was the molded cable that fried it.

Get a new one! These glasses are fabulous.

Just bought another one and I'm able to sync with my tv. I have to place the IR very close to my existing transmitter. Glasses are still charging so not sure the image quality. I'll find out in a few hr. You're right the 3.5mm jack has to be pushed in all the way and if it was left 3/4 in running lights turn off. Why can't they make the jack much better?
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post #332 of 978
1/10/12 at 9:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dojoman View Post

3d sync connector won't work with my tv that's why I used IR and tried to sync. It kept searching for signal and no success. I said piece of junk bc it's broken out of the box. I'm sure yours work, good for you, boo hoo.

I wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just pointing out that my experience has been totally different from yours. More and more manufacturers appear to be going to non-standard connectors, EDID checks, etc., to make people have to buy their branded accessories. As an example, our Sony Bravia from 3 years ago is 'Net capable, but you have to use the converter box that came with the TV, and all it gives you is content provided by Sony. No DNLA or other networking capability.
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post #333 of 978
1/10/12 at 11:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post

I wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just pointing out that my experience has been totally different from yours. More and more manufacturers appear to be going to non-standard connectors, EDID checks, etc., to make people have to buy their branded accessories. As an example, our Sony Bravia from 3 years ago is 'Net capable, but you have to use the converter box that came with the TV, and all it gives you is content provided by Sony. No DNLA or other networking capability.

No problem. i was just frustrated with the IR dongle setup but I got it working after getting another pair. I return them both since I see no improvement in flicker which Monster claimed these are faster shutter glasses and brightness seems about the same as branded pairs that I have. Monster glasses are perfect for people with projector with VESA connector, it's too much mess with IR dongle.
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post #334 of 978
1/10/12 at 11:41am
^^^

i simply taped the ir dongle to the ir emitter on my pj... hardly "too much mess"...
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post #335 of 978
1/10/12 at 12:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

i simply taped the ir dongle to the ir emitter on my pj... hardly "too much mess"...

Well not just that. I don't have USB nearby so I had to rout a long cable to my Xbox with wire dangling everywhere. I would call that a mess.
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post #336 of 978
1/10/12 at 1:06pm
You didn't use the USB from the nx810?
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post #337 of 978
1/10/12 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by brahby View Post

You didn't use the USB from the nx810?

I did but I got a message from TV saying the device is drawing too much power and asked to unplug it. IR dongle uses a lot of power from USB. So I had to hook it up to Xbox.
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post #338 of 978
1/11/12 at 2:50pm
Got this thing running on my Sony kdl46hx820 and it's definitely a huge improvement. I can actually tilt my head and maintain the 3d effect with these glasses just like the new passive ones. Ghosting is almost elimated. Why don't more tv manufacturers jump on this bandwagon?
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post #339 of 978
1/11/12 at 4:11pm
Oddly enough, I find that with these glasses and my display (Samsung UN55C8000) I notice a narrower viewing angle than with the native glasses. It's not that I lose the 3D effect, but if I tilt my head to the left, the picture darkens. If I tilt my head down, it also darkens a bit. Conversely, if I tilt to the right, there is no darkening. This is strange. Does anyone else notice this sort of behavior?

On another note, I have tweaked the settings further and reduced, but not eliminated, crosstalk further. It has darkened the image more, however, but what can I do?
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post #340 of 978
1/12/12 at 12:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBoy View Post

Oddly enough, I find that with these glasses and my display (Samsung UN55C8000) I notice a narrower viewing angle than with the native glasses. It's not that I lose the 3D effect, but if I tilt my head to the left, the picture darkens. If I tilt my head down, it also darkens a bit. Conversely, if I tilt to the right, there is no darkening. This is strange. Does anyone else notice this sort of behavior?

I have the Optoma RF version of the glasses and did some testing with my new Optoma GT750 projector. I was noticing ghosting to the level where I did not expect with the Optoma DLP. At first I thought I would need to tune the glasses/emitter combo. I'm using their 'default' configuration right out of box which I assume is already set for optimum Optima DLP use. What I found is that the lenses need to be as parallel as possible to the screen and your eye's viewing path as perpendicular to the lenses for optimum ghosting and color performance. I was somewhat 'reclining' in my seat and as the lens became less parallel to the screen the ghosting increases. This sucks for using a recliner...so I tilted the frames downward a bit...the frame handles lifted off my ears...but the ghosting decreases and disappears. However the other artifact is that the picture darkens a bit (with a somewhat green tint.) This I attribute to my eye's viewing angle now hitting the lens at a less than perpendicular angle causing more light loss/polarization.
If anyone is using Bit Cauldron type glasses with Optoma projectors did you find a need to tune them out of the box?
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post #341 of 978
1/12/12 at 2:17pm
Is anyone else having a problem with their IR receiver picking up a signal when no 3D signal is present? From time to time I see my green lights come on yet there is no 3D transmission. Could not be coming from a neighbor or another room either.

Sometimes it happens a lot like every 15 seconds. Other times it doesn't happen for weeks. I can't tell if it has to do with something being turned on in the house that causes this, or interference from the projector itself, or maybe even the type of light reflecting of the projector's screen (Firehawk). Anyone?
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post #342 of 978
1/12/12 at 2:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by derek View Post

I have the Optoma RF version of the glasses and did some testing with my new Optoma GT750 projector. I was noticing ghosting to the level where I did not expect with the Optoma DLP. At first I thought I would need to tune the glasses/emitter combo. I'm using their 'default' configuration right out of box which I assume is already set for optimum Optima DLP use. What I found is that the lenses need to be as parallel as possible to the screen and your eye's viewing path as perpendicular to the lenses for optimum ghosting and color performance. I was somewhat 'reclining' in my seat and as the lens became less parallel to the screen the ghosting increases. This sucks for using a recliner...so I tilted the frames downward a bit...the frame handles lifted off my ears...but the ghosting decreases and disappears. However the other artifact is that the picture darkens a bit (with a somewhat green tint.) This I attribute to my eye's viewing angle now hitting the lens at a less than perpendicular angle causing more light loss/polarization.
If anyone is using Bit Cauldron type glasses with Optoma projectors did you find a need to tune them out of the box?

Have noticed the same thing as you on my Sony VW95 when sitting in a recliner. I have to tilt the gasses downwards to get a totally ghost free image…. Is there smart solutions to this other than the solution that Derek use?
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post #343 of 978
1/12/12 at 4:19pm
same "leaning back - ghosting" issue here, with my optoma rf's. FWIW, the problem was the same if not worse with both pairs of Ultimate3dheaven DLP Link glasses i tried.
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post #344 of 978
1/12/12 at 11:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

If you have a Sony HW30ES projector I can tell you what values you need but....

Ok... what values do you need for the HW30ES?
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post #345 of 978
1/13/12 at 5:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjrivera View Post


Ok... what values do you need for the HW30ES?

+1

I'll be getting my MV3D delivered today. Can't wait to try it out.
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post #346 of 978
1/13/12 at 1:17pm
After much experimentation I believe the BEST settings for use with the Sony VW95 are the factory, default settings, but with the 3D brightness setting on the Sony at level 3 (one down from the "Max" setting).

The default settings for the Sony (note that the default settings are manufacturer specific!) at 1150 delay and 89 duty cycle. With the 3D brightness control set at 3 that is the equivalent of 72 for the duty cycle.

However its best to just go with the default factor settings (which is technically different than just putting the same default settings into the fine tuning menu - read this sentence again so it sinks in...).

So IMO to get the best results reset your transmitter to the factory default setting (instructions are in the manual) and then put the 3D brightness in the Sony menu to 3. With some material you may be able to push it back to Max without adding to the ghosting.

I can't say for sure about the VW30 but I think its a high probability this all applies just the same to that unit.
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post #347 of 978
1/13/12 at 3:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

After much experimentation I believe the BEST settings for use with the Sony VW95 are the factory, default settings, but with the 3D brightness setting on the Sony at level 3 (one down from the "Max" setting).

The default settings for the Sony (note that the default settings are manufacturer specific!) at 1150 delay and 89 duty cycle. With the 3D brightness control set at 3 that is the equivalent of 72 for the duty cycle.

However its best to just go with the default factor settings (which is technically different than just putting the same default settings into the fine tuning menu - read this sentence again so it sinks in...).

So IMO to get the best results reset your transmitter to the factory default setting (instructions are in the manual) and then put the 3D brightness in the Sony menu to 3. With some material you may be able to push it back to Max without adding to the ghosting.

I can't say for sure about the VW30 but I think its a high probability this all applies just the same to that unit.

Just plugged in my glasses to charge. So far so good. Once they are fully charged, I will set up with the default settings.

Anyone have any tips and tricks for hooking up with the Sony HW30?
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post #348 of 978
1/13/12 at 3:41pm
Should I leave the transmitter always plugged in? I have been unplugging mine when I am not watching a 3d movie. Do I lose my duty and cycle settings?
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post #349 of 978
1/13/12 at 6:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmarki View Post

Should I leave the transmitter always plugged in? I have been unplugging mine when I am not watching a 3d movie. Do I lose my duty and cycle settings?

No as long as you hit the Save button in the software or as long as you let the unit sit for several minutes after tweaking with the joystick - then the custom settings are saved even after power is out. I understand it draws a very tiny amount of electricity. I leave mine on all the time but mainly because I have to feed it from a plug/USB adapter.

What I'd really like is to be able to power it from the 12v trigger on my projector...
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post #350 of 978
1/13/12 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by palpitatn View Post

Just plugged in my glasses to charge. So far so good. Once they are fully charged, I will set up with the default settings.

Anyone have any tips and tricks for hooking up with the Sony HW30?

Did you happen to see the post directly above the one where you posted this question?
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post #351 of 978
1/13/12 at 7:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


Did you happen to see the post directly above the one where you posted this question?

I did see it, but since it wasn't about the HW30, I wanted to know if there actually were any specific differences from the 95. Since the 30 doesn't have a built in IR emitter, I was especially curious how other 30 owners set up their IR emitter and MV3D RF transmitter.
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post #352 of 978
1/13/12 at 9:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by palpitatn View Post


I did see it, but since it wasn't about the HW30, I wanted to know if there actually were any specific differences from the 95. Since the 30 doesn't have a built in IR emitter, I was especially curious how other 30 owners set up their IR emitter and MV3D RF transmitter.

The delay and duty is often the same within a manufacturers line. If you try my suggestions for the 95 on your 30 please let us know how they work out.
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post #353 of 978
1/14/12 at 5:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


No as long as you hit the Save button in the software or as long as you let the unit sit for several minutes after tweaking with the joystick - then the custom settings are saved even after power is out. I understand it draws a very tiny amount of electricity. I leave mine on all the time but mainly because I have to feed it from a plug/USB adapter.

What I'd really like is to be able to power it from the 12v trigger on my projector...

Thanks LDVD. I thought that was the case. I can't find how to reset to defaults. I'll check the monster website. Y
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post #354 of 978
1/14/12 at 8:37pm
one of my lens on my monster has stopped working, meaning there is no shuttering. Is there a way to fix this or does this mean i have a browkn pair? I have only had them a few weeks.
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post #355 of 978
1/14/12 at 9:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenyalie View Post

one of my lens on my monster has stopped working, meaning there is no shuttering. Is there a way to fix this or does this mean i have a browkn pair? I have only had them a few weeks.

Doesn't sound good. But there is a way to force the glasses to a factory reset. It is described in the manual. I would give that a try.
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post #356 of 978
1/15/12 at 10:59am
Hello,

Curious if there's anybody out there who has somewhat of a success with the JVC RS45 mating to the Monstervision Max3D/Optoma RF/Bit Cauldron glasses. If so, please share your best settings with respect to minimal ghosting/crosstalk while retaining decent brightness.

I initially had OK experience with the combo but polarity was reversed so I had to wear the glasses upside down. Once I tried to reverse polarity (via monster utility), the picture got completely out of whack. I then reset everything to default (manually), I got a good picture again but the polarity is still reversed like Doug mentioned above (which means I had to wear the glasses upside down). The manual was badly written and I just couldn't do much as far as manual tuning is concern. This damn thing is not user friendly and that's an understatement.

Thanks in advance,

Kenobi
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post #357 of 978
1/16/12 at 7:25pm
Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.
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post #358 of 978
1/16/12 at 7:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.

You really have to press the button hard.
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post #359 of 978
1/16/12 at 8:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Ok. So I read about the Monstervison Max 3D glasses on a forum here. They sounded much better than my Sony glasses I have, mainly because of comfort and reduced ghosting and crosstalk. I bought them Saturday off of Amazon and received both pairs today. To my surprise, I cannot get either pair of glasses to power on. When I plug them into my laptop, or usb power hub or directly to my TV, the light does not come on at all. I left them plugged in for a couple hours and then tried holding the power button down for a few seconds and nothing. Am I doing something wrong or did I somehow receive TWO bad pairs of glasses?? Any help would be appreciated.

You will probably have to buy a charger to properly charge them. When fully charged the led will pulse slowly. If no lights at all it is not charging.
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post #360 of 978
1/16/12 at 8:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post


You will probably have to buy a charger to properly charge them. When fully charged the led will pulse slowly. If no lights at all it is not charging.

Thanks for the input. When you say to buy a charger, im confused by that. I thought these would be able to charge via the provided usb cable? Is there an actual charger for these?
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