Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 20

I suggest that everyone update the firmware. The new firmware fixed some issues and has made it easier to reverse polarity.

The reason why the prices have dropped is that Monster is getting out of the 3D glasses business. These are close out prices. Bid Cauldron made the glasses for Monster, Optoma, and others. The only ones that have gone down in price have been the Monsters. I would suggest getting the while you still can.

I just checked Optima prices on Amazon and found that they and Monster are selling for about $75. That's the same price I paid for my Optima rebranded Bit Cauldron glasses in January.

You'll note that Monster cables and other products are hyped as being superior to other cables. While they are well made, they aren't THAT much better as to justify their super high prices. Obviously, that is part of their business model...lots of hype and very high profit margins and I don't begrudge them for it...business is business. Since competition from VIP and Optima has put price pressure on Monster and they couldn't make the claim that their rebranded version was superior like they do with cable products...they probably just decided that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3D business.

I just got a tip from JohnHWman for tuning the emitter/glasses:

First reduce the lens duty cycle to minimum and then adjust delay until no ghosting is visible. Then come back to rize the duty cycle parameter until ghosting start to reappear. Let the adjustments as is since the dongle will store them automatically.

The difference is that the Monster glasses come with the transmitter and rf emitter connection. That makes them a much better buy. I did speak to Monster at the CES show and you are correct that it wasn't worth the time and effort to stay in the 3d business.

Minimum would completely shut the lenses off. Try 50% duty cycle first. That worked for me.

Yes, if you need the IR Receiver, which you do with the Sony HW30AES Projector, the MV3D kit is the only way to get that.

How long does it take for thes glasses to ship i just ordered a pair from Amazon ? (TheFactoryDepot)

I ordered from them as well, arrived within four days of ordering. I think they're located in Ontario, Canada. As I'm in the northeast, your mileage may vary.

Thanks i live in new mexico.

I'm having a weird Issue with my monster glasses. If I pause a 3D movie and tweek my glasses using the joystick I can pretty much erase ghosting and get a pretty clear picture....everything looks good except the background, its all blurry like 2 images on top of one another offset slightly. When I adjust to get the background crisp, the foreground objects blur.

Is there a way to adjust layers in the image? Such as adjusting Foreground and background separately?

THX!

Sometimes the producer of the content camera setup is the cause, your own camera has depth of field that includes out of focus objects; same thing can happen in the 3D process. Try to find the best compromise setting also make sure any video enhancement settings are turned OFF, like noise reduction for instance; see which setting exacerbates the problem.

Well I would agree with that except I can dial the Background in very crisp (at the expense of the foreground). If it was depth of field, I wouldn't be able to make it sharp no matter what I did. Its like the 3D is in layers and I cant adjust the layers independently. Ill try it with a different movie. Right now Im using the Imax Grand Canyon movie.

Does anyone know of any calibration screens to dial these things in or are you guys just watching a movie and adjusting the joystick on the fly?

Ghosting can be caused by many things and you can only go so far to reduce it with the adjustments.

Can anyone tell me how to get my emitter out of firmware update mode. I tried to update and get failed every time. Stuck with one red light in the middle. It turns orange when trying to upgrade but never completes. I'm stuck in this mode.

I had a similar problem when I had the transmitter plugged into a usb port of my computer that was usb 3.0. I was about to send it back to The Factory Depot, had an RMA ready. I just tried another usb 2.0 It just started to work immediately as expected. Hope this works for you.

The reason why the prices have dropped is that Monster is getting out of the 3D glasses business. These are close out prices.

Just for my clarification:

1.
With the DEFAULT emitter settings, I FIRST press and hold the joystick (menu 2 of course) to the left until the orange leds are approx in the middle.

2.
After this I reduce the deplay to MINIMUM by pressing and holding DOWN the joystick until I have 0 (red) leds.

3.
From that point I raise the joystick UPWARDS until I see the least ghosting.

4.
After this I raise the brighness (joystick to the RIGHT) until ghosting start to re-appear and when this happens I put it a little back to the LEFT until I have no ghosting again.


Is this the correct procedure?

Looks like it was a OS problem with the PC or the usb. I took the emitter to work today and tried the update on a PC with XP and the upgrade had no errors. At Home I was trying it on a computer running Vista. Hope this helps anyone else who has this issue.

Don't use the Monster update. There were some issues involved with freezing during the process. Use the Curt Palm VIP update. It is the latest version from Bit Caldron and it works fine with the Monster glasses. See link below. This version of the firmware is also the latest. If you are using Vista you may have to right click on admin. install
because of security.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...6ee6e8c4cbc57d

thanks, just made the VIP update to the device with no error.

Glad that worked. It has been reported by a few people that the Monster firmware is not the latest and that the VIP update fixed the problem. It is also much easier to set polarity with the VIP update.

If I make manual adjustments with the joystick and then at some point hook the emitter back up to computer will the vip utility show the values I modified? I dont want them to reset when i load the app up and I want to capture the current values so I have a reference to go back to in case I want to play around with it more. One other question, is there a mac version of that app?

So has this version been verified to work with not just the Monster emitter and Glasses but also with the BC-10 IR receiver?

This firmware works with any Bit Caldron made glasses such as Monster, Optoma, Bit Caldron, VP and probably others. All the IR receivers are the same. I have used the firmware with the BC-10 and it works, If you look on the Curt Palme link you will see that this update makes it easer to set polarity. It also fixes an issue that some people have with the update freezing.

I would say your thinking of depth of field in 2 dimensional form, in 3D then your analogy of layers would probably be more accurate. Even that doesn't take into account of digital processing that will vary among content. If there is a standard at this point a lot of liberties have been taken with it.

As for dialing in a permanent setting, well it may work for a lot of 3D content but not all because of the aforementioned.

No Mac version of the 3DVIP update was made.

That IMAX film is a tough one. I had a hard time getting 3D focus with my LCOS projector but then when I got a DLP projector it was perfect. I basically figured the LCOS panels couldn't refresh quick enough. Some scenes looked great but others looked way off with much ghosting and while paused on the tough scenes I couldn't adjust out the ghosting so it was fuzzy. Then I got the Acer and was blown away by the 3D clarity. That same IMAX film had no ghosting and it was sharp throughout the film.

I m still trying to find out what the best settings are to pick for my MV3D/Sony VW95 combo.
The LENS DUTY CYCLE can be set from 10% - 120%. I know this is the amount of time the lenses remain open. Of course a lower value decreases ghosting and has less brightness and a higher value causes more ghosting and more brightness.

Next is the DELAY that can be adjusted. This can be set from 20 - 45000.

What is the way to config the DELAY+LENS DUTY CYCLE to accomplish to best result? (for your info, I m sensitive to ghosting so I prefer the least ghosting).

Changing the delay is the thing I don t understand. When beginning from 20 and moving the delay upwards it looks like 'the same result is repeating itself for a few times' untill 45000 (max) is reached. I hope you guys understand what I mean here. So what is the best to choose here?

Thxz!

Yea I see the repeat as well as I move up and down the scale. I was wondering the same thing. I have landed at just over 2 red LEDs and I have the orange LEDs fully open.