Official Monster Vision Max 3D Thread - Page 21

I can't speak with authority (I've only owned them for 2 weeks), but what your seeing is changes in polarity (as you adjust from one lens to the other) and an increase/decrease of the 3D effect. Find a 3D scene where you know something should be coming out of the screen or at least more pronounced in the foreground. Adjust the red lights until you get maximum 3D effect. Then go back to a menu screen and adjust the orange lights until you get the image bright enough without seeing any ghosting. You may have to do this process one more time after double checking the previous image. If it looks blurry, then you can adjust the red lights until the image appears sharper, at the expense of a lesser 3D effect.

Of course, if any of the experts wish to chime in I have no problem being corrected as I'm interested myself.

Another way to check polarity is to turn the glasses upside down. If the 3D effect is better the polarity is reversed. Adjust polarity for most depth on 3D with the glasses on correctly. Use the Curt Palme VIP firmware which makes polarity adjustment much easier.

You'll notice that when you click the button to swap the eyes, all it does is change the phase-delay. The reason why it repeats several times over the valid range of values is that the phase is in microseconds, so if you are using a set that does older 30FPS/eye or even lower, then you have to have more microseconds in the range to do a full 360 degree phase change.

I am trying to swap the polarity on the emitter with the VIP firmware but after I swap it with the controller it is not storing it but swapping back. Anyone else have this issue? Any way to lock it in?

It should stay once you lock it in. There are instructions on the Curt Palme Website on using storing the firmware. These are the new instructions.


SET POLARITY:
Push joystick UP momentarily to clear LEDs. Now hold UP until 4 LEDs are lit and release. This is Polarity Mode, pushing Joystick Left/Right momentary while in this mode will produce the following:

2 LEDs= standard polarity
3 LEDs= Reverse Polarity.

After 10 seconds non-use the mode is saved and returned to normal operation.

It should stay after 10 seconds.

I think they are saying its not saving the mode you change it too. Once you change it it should save it in that mode you changed it too.

Correct. I am doing it that way but it is not saving my selection.

Seems very strange. Try to push the joystick to center to see if that works. You might want to try to update the firmware again. Something could have gone wrong during the update. I have updated several emitters with the update with no problem.

Last night I had a chance to compare the MV glasses with the Xpand 104's. The picture quality is very close between the two. If I had to pick one I would choose the MV's. The price at this time is lower and they are more comfortable.

My timeout save function time is in error, it should be two minutes of non-use and then the settings are saved. Page 8 of the BC5100 users guide. The timeout period applies both to performance tuning and set polarity.

Sorry about that and I will make the correction on CurtPalme as well.

Do you guys leave the emitter plugged in all the time? I was considering only plugging in when using it so it's not always flashing. Does it maintain it's settings when there is no power to it for a prolonged period of time?

I place my emitter out of sight and always plugged in. Since it's RF, line of sight isn't a factor. As for the settings...they were dead on right out of the box and have stayed that way, so I've never made adjustments.

I just picked up a pair of the Monstervision 3d glasses for my Mitsubishi DLP. They are pretty comfortable and much lighter on my nose than Xpand's X103. Unfortunately these glasses have the lense polarity rotated in such a way that it causes static polarization rainbows on the plastic screens of most DLP's. This is the same problem that most DLP link glasses have but not IR glasses. Unfortunately I'll have to return them and try Xpand's youniversals, I assume they won't have this problem as their X103s do not.

Is there a way to return the optoma rf emitter software to a factory firmware version? I used the monstervision utility to flash it to v1.05.004 and it went all ok, but I cannot get 3D image to show up in glasses... all lights are green on the emitter but no 3D image... when I use VIP 3d utility to flash it to v1.05.010 its all OK, but I would want to return to the Optoma version of FW. Or maybe there is a way to get 3D on v1.05.004 with monstervision utility.

Why would you want to return to the Optoma original firmware. The VIP is newer than the Monster FW. All firmwares were designed by Bit Caldron the manufacturer of the glasses. The VIP 1.05.010 is the easiest to tune and adjust polarity. I suggest that you stay with the VIP firmware.

You have more going on than just a firmware problem. We are not sure what you mean by "no 3D image". Do you mean there is no 3D image on the video display or the glasses are not shuttering?

When in "tuning mode" are you seeing the Red and Amber LEDs change when making the adjustments during the tuning of the Delay and Duty cycle? Have you even used the "tuning modes"?

I get 5 green lights when I play 3D content but the glasses are not shuttering... That happens when I flash with monstervision utility to v1.05.004... I see the glasses are receiving the FW when I first turn them on after flashing the RF emitter, but they are not shuttering... I am not doing any tuning work and when I put 1.04.010 with VIP utility its all good... without any tuning...Whats bothering me is why I am not getting 3D picture with 1.05.004 using montervision utility when Optoma and Monster and VIP are all the same glasses

I am asking for warranty purposes, if I ever have to return the emitter or glasses with it...

It should not be a problem using the VIP firmware. You could flash it back to the Monster or Optoma firmware if you wanted to. I don't think they would ever check the firmware if you had a defective pair of glasses. If you own more than one pair of MV glasses you probably have several emitters. Just flash one emitter with the latest firmware if you like. The emitter changes the firmware on the glasses when you sync up. I really suggest that you use the latest firmware since fixes have been made and it is much easier to adjust polarity with the new firmware.

I have a DPI dVision 30 1080P-XC and am using a 3DFury/HDfury4 with a Panasonic DMP-BDT220 and of course the MAX3D emitter and glasses running the latest Monster firmware.

Everything is currently connected over relatively short HDMI cables with no amplifiers, scalers or switching in between.

I'm able to get pretty amazing 3D in terms of resolution, depth of field etc. but the flicker on high contrast areas make it unwatchable. I have tried multiple different resolutions with 720p60 & 1080p60 having the least amount of flicker.

The projector has rated bandwidth of up-to 225 MHz on HDMI but 720p 96 is worse and 720p 120 shows each field one at a time very slowly.

I have also adjusted light output both from the lamps as well as settings but even at brightness levels you could only view on the other side of the moon the flickering is still very visible.

I think I have the delay and duty cycle pretty dialed in but maybe I'm missing something.

Lastly I originally tried an Expand IR setup and was not able to get 3D at all.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

BAFFLED
On my 3rd pair Optoma RF 3d glasses purchased from Amazon... Have been unable to
power them on after charging using belkin 1 Mv plugin charger... LED light slow
heart beat pulse indicating glasses charged.. Remove from charger , press power button 1 sec.
nothing. Press & hold 5 sec. 10 sec. 20 sec. but glasses will not power on.. Using monster vision
emitter w/ latest firmware.... Any suggestions appreciated..

Some chargers do not put out enough to charge these glasses. If you have an I-pad or I-phone charger try it to see if it works. If that does not work something could be wrong with the glasses. The i-pad and i-phone chargers put out more than some others. You should see a red charging light when you plug them in. I had this happen once and a higher output charger worked.

I know on the Monster's engaging the power button is tricky. You have to hit the switch under the flexible plastic "button" just right to get them to power up.
Also not sure but does the emitter have to be active for the glasses to power on?

I think so when i first got my glasses i charged them and they would not come on until i paired the with the emitter

Read all post regarding low charger output (550 Ma) low. Using belkin charger 1000ma. Unable 2 pair w/ emitter since glasses will not power up.. thanks guys 4 such a rapid response :-)

So everything was working great I even was making progress on reducing flicker.
Then I decided to update to the Curt Palme listed firmware for the emitter to make polarity switching easier. Now the emitters will not sync with the 3Dfury.
I reverted firmware back to the Monster still no luck, took a new one and fresh cable out of the box and still no luck.
The only thing I can think of is that I did something to the 3DFury when I did the update as the emitter was connected to sync port. I can't imagine it back feed something but hey anything is possible.
Now all the emitters do is have the red LED's scanning back and forth.
No HUGO for the family on Easter
Any ideas?

If the lights are flashing the emitters are probably working. What color are they flashing. I don't think updating should cause the problem you are having. It sounds like some kind of sync issue. The glasses will take about 30 seconds to sync with any new firmware update. You will see them flash and they they should work. The new firmware from the emitter must also install the firmware to the glasses.

Try a different USB port to power the emitter. I had one seem to work then stop working. An underpowered USB or USB 3.0 is a problem in my experience.

Thanks for the ideas/info.
I'm getting power from the 3dfury itself from the sync cable. Also tried using a
separate USB power still no luck.
The red lights just keep cycling back and fourth and never go green and sync.
It has to do with the Fury as I have tried three different emitters all the same results.

Is the 3dfury still outputting a 3d image on the screen. I am using the monstervision with curtpalme firmware on the 3dfury with great results.