Originally Posted by MikeekiM
A few questions for those that are familiar with Canon camcorders (I own a Canon Vixia HF20)...
1. Is there any way to turn off the LCD display when playing back on an external device? The little glowing screen is annoying and distracting, especially if you are watching the external display in dark settings with the camcorder nearby.
2. MXP appears to be the best quality setting, but seems like it is a little bit harder a format to work with... According to the manual, you can't write an AVCHD disc directly from MXP, and there were a few other things that looked like MXP didn't support... Seems to me FXP (one quality level down) is a better format to use... Opinions on this?
3. Everything is recorded in 60i? Reading the Canon manual for the G10, it looks like almost every framerate format refers to a footnote that says that it is "recorded as 60i". I don't understand this... Why is it that whether I record at 60i, PF30 or PF24, it all is recorded as 60i? The only exception is when you record in 24P.
4. I want to record basketball footage... It's high action and low light (gymnasiums are not very bright)... With my older camera, the guys at Canon suggested I stick with fixing the aperture at f1.8 and let the shutter adjust accordingly... With this new camera that touts low light sensitivity, should I go back to just using the auto setting? Or is aperture priority still the best?
5. Will image stabilization deal with movement encountered on a tripod sitting on a bleacher with lots of walking and vibrations?
6. Will the "Sports" special scene do anything for me for my basketball use case?
7. For my use case, am I best putting money towards buying a refurbished G10 (released in 2011), or use the same money for a mid-level current product (with more up-to-date technology)?
I know there are a lot of questions here...most with answers that beg for opinions versus a single "right" answer...and I am okay with that... Any opinions on any of the above would be graciously accepted!
Hi, I use (or have used) the XA10, XF100, and now the XA25. I know you are currently looking at the G10, but it is just a "scaled down" version of the XA10. I'll try my best to answer your questions ...1.
Sure, easy enough ... just close the LCD. I can't remember with the G10, but it IS possible (as it is the case with the XA10) that if you are using the A/V out that it is on the LCD screen side. HDMI out is not a problem as it is on the "handle/grip side." But even this isn't a problem, just shut it (gently) as far as it will go and the screen WILL turn off.2.
I always shot at the best possible quality, which is MXP. (On rare occasions I shot on something lower like XP+ to conform something to 1440x1080 res.) I didn't worry about the saving to AVCHD discs, as that is something I NEVER do. I am always editing/compositing before burning or encoding. I also never have to worry about format because I edit in Edius which handles any and every format (all at the same time) in REALTIME. So it really depends what you are doing with the footage. You could drop down to FXP if burning straight to disc is imperative for you ... the quality difference is subtle in most lighting conditions.3.
Yes, this generation of camcorders does not have straight up 30p (or 60p for that matter) like the the fx100/105 and now XA20/25's. It use what is called PF mode, where it is SHOT as progressive but RECORDED
to interlaced frames. It does do 24p as you noted, and also (be careful) has PF24 mode. Why you would want to use PF24 instead of 24P I am not sure? Maybe compatibility reasons with certain software? The XF100's can only do 60p at 1280x720, but they do 30p and 24p at full-1080p. The XA20/25 can do everything at full 1080p and even have TRUE overcrank/undercrank recording which is REALLY nice. A lot of software will see the PF stuff as interlaced (like After Effects for example) ... you just need to tell it it is NOT interlaced and there should not be a problem. Basically it is recording a whole picture to each interlaced frame ... it's the way it is contained, NOT the way it is captured.4.
That is one of the toughest situations, because obviously a high shutter speed is going to let in a lot less light. I would go Manual
(I rarely shoot anything not on Manual) and keep the iris wide open, and then compromise on the shutter speed. In other words, I'd rather have a decently lit picture with some motion-blurring, rather than crisp motion but you can hardly see anything. The newer cams may have slightly better low-light performance, and you can also control the gain
... so if you don't mind a little grain, that is an option too.5.
Yes. Different cameras and different modes will handle it better than others of course. The G10 on up have powered IS.6
. Again, I'd go Manual ... why wouldn't you want total control? The Sports mode is basically just going to crank up the shutter speed. I've never seen a camera that has a MODE that can't be outdone by human hands. The only time I use a preset mode is when I don't have time to set things up -- so if it's a case of put it in this mode and get the shot, or miss it.7.
I started out looking at the G10, than the XA10 (which I rented for a while) would be a much better choice, and ultimately realized the XF100 was for me, and worth the extra. Then XA20 line came along. It took me a long time and a lot of rentals in the meantime, but I saved up to get the better gear.Edited by timoteo - 10/29/13 at 5:36am