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Official Samsung 2011 PNxxD550 Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcvictim View Post

Update:
I watched tron in 3d/SBS last night and the quality was stunning, the movie blows BTW.

I also tried playing a 1080p MKV file and it played perfectly off a USB drive.


I checked my setting and my eco and power settings are turned off, did not see any shifting blacks with these settings in either 2d or 3d.

Also I labeled HDMI 2(my pc input) as "PC" and the tv would not let me select "movie" picture setting unless I was in 24hz mode, as soon as I switched the label to "blu-ray" I can select "movie" mode in both 24hz and 60hz.

nice on the mkv!
post #152 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by goedken1 View Post
I have the same thing happening on my set (59D550). Over the course of one bluray movie I saw maybe 5 pops. It doesn't bother me enough to return the set, but it would be nice if some setting was able to fix it.
I have to same problem with my PN51D550C1. If my contrast is above a certain point (which you need to have higher contrast setting for good 3D) my TV's brigthness seems to slightly fluctuate in brighter scenes. Sure I can lower the contrast and make proper adjustments for 2D, but it does kill the needed brigthness/contrast for 3D. Does this problem have something to do with an ambient light sensor being over sensitive? Any way to turn that off?It is pretty annoying and I hope there is a fix in the future. I did have the same problem with the PN43D490 which I returned.
post #153 of 1918
Thread Starter 
You guys are seeing the auto brightness limiter. (ABL) It is built into every plasma to keep the power draw down below the power supply's limits.
post #154 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

You guys are seeing the auto brightness limiter. (ABL) It is built into every plasma to keep the power draw down below the power supply's limits.

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but that doesn't make any sense. It's not limiting the brightness on bright scenes, it's actually raising them. Then it lowers them on dark scenes. It's almost like an iris.

Plus, I owned a Panasonic plamsa for two and a half years before this one. Never had any such problem.

Also, it does it regardless of whether the "cell light" is at 10 or 20, no way the light output at 10 is anywhere close to what I see at 20 (which I use for 3D). So if it's already limiting the power draw at 10... how does it allow the power level that's going through at 20?
post #155 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by javanpohl View Post

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding, but that doesn't make any sense. It's not limiting the brightness on bright scenes, it's actually raising them. Then it lowers them on dark scenes. It's almost like an iris.

Plus, I owned a Panasonic plamsa for two and a half years before this one. Never had any such problem.

Also, it does it regardless of whether the "cell light" is at 10 or 20, no way the light output at 10 is anywhere close to what I see at 20 (which I use for 3D). So if it's already limiting the power draw at 10... how does it allow the power level that's going through at 20?

Any chance you have contrast set to Dynamic? I don't have this set but an older Samsung so it could be called something else now. If it is set to Dynamic, perhaps setting it to something else could make a difference.
post #156 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik C. Johnson View Post

I have to same problem with my PN51D550C1. If my contrast is above a certain point (which you need to have higher contrast setting for good 3D) my TV's brigthness seems to slightly fluctuate in brighter scenes. Sure I can lower the contrast and make proper adjustments for 2D, but it does kill the needed brigthness/contrast for 3D. Does this problem have something to do with an ambient light sensor being over sensitive? Any way to turn that off?It is pretty annoying and I hope there is a fix in the future. I did have the same problem with the PN43D490 which I returned.

I watched another Bluray last night and didn't see any brightness pops. Between last time and this time, I enabled Cinema Smooth on the TV and also enabled 24 fps output on my Bluray player. I think one of these two things fixed it. It could also just be a coincidence, or maybe some movies will bring out the issue and some will hide it.
post #157 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

You guys are seeing the auto brightness limiter. (ABL) It is built into every plasma to keep the power draw down below the power supply's limits.

I am not seeing a normal functioning display. If I am seeing a function of the ABL then the ABL in my set is shot.

It is a drastic jump or fall in black levels from one frame to the next. Not a gradual ramping (even over the course of half a second) from one level to another. It is an instant shift. It is quite jarring visually.

I work in video engineering, editing and compressing. This is not normal, nor would it be acceptable under any circumstances to an end user.
post #158 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by goedken1 View Post

I watched another Bluray last night and didn't see any brightness pops. Between last time and this time, I enabled Cinema Smooth on the TV and also enabled 24 fps output on my Bluray player. I think one of these two things fixed it. It could also just be a coincidence, or maybe some movies will bring out the issue and some will hide it.

It's a coincidence. I have watched entire episodes of "The Pacific" and no pops... then a different one and it will have 3-5 in it. All while in 24p from my Blu-Ray (PS3) and testing out all different modes on the set... Cinema Smooth on/off, everything off, everything on, etc. etc.
post #159 of 1918
Question, my 360 is connected to the TV using component cables. The resolution in the 360 control panel is set to 1080p. I am using cinema picture mode, eventhough I tried standard under game with the same effect.

I tried playing NBA2k11 last night and I see what looks like jaggies around the player's heads, I tried toggling the noise reduction options and reduced sharpening and they are still there. Is there a setting I can try to reduce the jaggies or is that how it is. I wonder if the same thing was going on on my 50 inch plasma but I just didn't see it due to a smaller screen size?
post #160 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aletuner View Post

I am not seeing a normal functioning display. If I am seeing a function of the ABL then the ABL in my set is shot.

It is a drastic jump or fall in black levels from one frame to the next. Not a gradual ramping (even over the course of half a second) from one level to another. It is an instant shift. It is quite jarring visually.

I work in video engineering, editing and compressing. This is not normal, nor would it be acceptable under any circumstances to an end user.

Unfortunatly this does appear to be normal on many plasma TV's. Panasonic TV's have had this problem in the past, most notably the 2010 series, all models had this floating black level problem to some extent. I have the same issue with my GT25 and it is driving me insanse, so much I am trying to sell the set. From what I know, this may be the first Samsung TV that has this problem. For the Panasonics, it is a design issue with the model, not a flaw of the individual set. As far as your TV goes, if other people are having the same issue it most likely is a design issue. This is very disapointing, as I was eyeing this as a possible replacement set for my GT25 that has horrible floating black levels.

Anyone who wants to read more about floating black levels see this post about the Panasonic problem

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1236475
post #161 of 1918
I've seen the posts about floating black levels. I've seen YouTube examples of floating black levels. I am experiencing that but to a much higher degree. This isn't some subtle changing of the levels. This is like instantly cranking your brightness controls from 50 to 90. Then sometimes back again right away.
post #162 of 1918
Just to be clear, is anybody experiencing this on the 51" tvs?
post #163 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aletuner View Post

I've seen the posts about floating black levels. I've seen YouTube examples of floating black levels. I am experiencing that but to a much higher degree. This isn't some subtle changing of the levels. This is like instantly cranking your brightness controls from 50 to 90. Then sometimes back again right away.

Thats sucks, I would definately try to get a replacement or return it. Just the subtle change on my TV is unacceptable to me. Hopefully this isn't a widespread issue.
post #164 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcvictim View Post

Question, my 360 is connected to the TV using component cables. The resolution in the 360 control panel is set to 1080p. I am using cinema picture mode, eventhough I tried standard under game with the same effect.

I tried playing NBA2k11 last night and I see what looks like jaggies around the player's heads, I tried toggling the noise reduction options and reduced sharpening and they are still there. Is there a setting I can try to reduce the jaggies or is that how it is. I wonder if the same thing was going on on my 50 inch plasma but I just didn't see it due to a smaller screen size?

I just realized that my sharpness was not at zero and can be contributing to the jaggies.
post #165 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by goedken1 View Post

I watched another Bluray last night and didn't see any brightness pops. Between last time and this time, I enabled Cinema Smooth on the TV and also enabled 24 fps output on my Bluray player. I think one of these two things fixed it. It could also just be a coincidence, or maybe some movies will bring out the issue and some will hide it.

After some testing and reading I have found that these settings to be satifactory for removing all of those brightness pops that have been occuring to me on my TV. I should say that I do prefer things to be a bit natural and on the darker side.

For 2D:

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 68
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: Whatever you like
Color: 45
Tint: G52/R48

Advance Settings:
Everything Off
Gamma +1


For 3D:

Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: Whatever you like
Color: 72
Tint: G52/R48

Advance Settings:
Everything Off

You can use Cinema Smooth if you like it.
post #166 of 1918
I have two sets that have been professionally calibrated. I do like natural colors but for 3D I will use dynamic for the extra light output. Until things change with the shutter glasses I will continue to use this setting.
Now saying what I have I will say that I am really impressed with the 3D on the 550.
It will keep me satisfied until I upgrade my HT to 3D in a few years.
post #167 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan33 View Post

I have two sets that have been professionally calibrated. I do like natural colors but for 3D I will use dynamic for the extra light output. Until things change with the shutter glasses I will continue to use this setting.
Now saying what I have I will say that I am really impressed with the 3D on the 550.
It will keep me satisfied until I upgrade my HT to 3D in a few years.

post your settings please sir.
post #168 of 1918
I noticed these pops a few times during Iron Man 2 last night. I still think I am more bothered by what I saw on my G25. However, couple these "pops" with the glare - has to be pitch black to avoid it - and this baby is a goner. I'll never again assume, "Oh, it's just all the bright, overhead lights; it will be fine at home."
post #169 of 1918
So just got the 51", there's no analog (RCA) audio out??? Weird. Also, the VGA input wont do anything over 768 for some reason (on Win 7) Am I missing a driver? The native screen is 1920x1200 so the graphics card can do 1080p...

Anyway loving it so far, can't wait to get some real HD content going.

Oh also, we went to BB and expected to get free glasses but apparently the deal online was supposed to end today so they had to "price match" it. The guy went and grabbed the Samsung Starter Kit.... not the glasses that were supposed to be included, supposedly a "$260" value. We got the $400 kit with the 5 free movies (Shrek movies and Megamind)....for FREE. Yeah i dunno, maybe it was the hundred dollar bills I was flashing around but thats a hell of of a deal. Anyway, no black level problems yet so thats good. oh and I have to find a stand....this thing is WAY bigger than I thought lol.
post #170 of 1918
Sorry for the noob question, but I can't find cinema smooth in the menus. Is it one of those service menu "hacks"?

Is it worth turning on?
post #171 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by sforza View Post

With my cable, screen fit does not actually fit my screen. Leaves a black small border around perimeter. If I move thr picture, I'm still left with black border on at least 2 sides...?

That's normal to have a very thin black border around the picture. It happens with many brands.
post #172 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocuMaker View Post


That's normal to have a very thin black border around the picture. It happens with many brands.

Couldn't that cause burn in ?
post #173 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom Divine View Post

Sorry for the noob question, but I can't find cinema smooth in the menus. Is it one of those service menu "hacks"?

Is it worth turning on?

It's either in Picture or Advanced Options in the Display menu.
post #174 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by will7046 View Post

Unfortunatly this does appear to be normal on many plasma TV's. Panasonic TV's have had this problem in the past, most notably the 2010 series, all models had this floating black level problem to some extent. I have the same issue with my GT25 and it is driving me insanse, so much I am trying to sell the set. From what I know, this may be the first Samsung TV that has this problem. For the Panasonics, it is a design issue with the model, not a flaw of the individual set. As far as your TV goes, if other people are having the same issue it most likely is a design issue. This is very disapointing, as I was eyeing this as a possible replacement set for my GT25 that has horrible floating black levels.

Anyone who wants to read more about floating black levels see this post about the Panasonic problem

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1236475

I tested two scenes from a Pacific episode that Aletuner was having his contrast popping issues with. I didn't have the problem. I have not experienced a single contrast popping in black levels playing a handful of PS3 games, several BDs, and at least 25 hours of HD programming.

I did continue to watch the Pacific episode past the point where Aletuner had experienced his problems. I did have a shift in contrast when there was a scene with a particularly white sky. When the camera would bring the sky in view it would be very bright. A second later the brightness of the sky shifted down a bit. Much like what you folks seem to be describing with your black levels...but on the white end of the spectrum. Not sure if this is the same problem, but I've only seen it this one time.
post #175 of 1918
question, does anyone use an external hard drive connected to their tv to play moves off of. I tried a MKV file off a USB flash drive and it worked great, I was thinking of picking up an external hard drive instead of a flash drive but do not know if it will work and what type, whether a USB powered one will suffice or do I need an externally powered one?
post #176 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcvictim View Post

I just realized that my sharpness was not at zero and can be contributing to the jaggies.

Does your Xbox have an HDMI output (mine does, but the older ones don't). If you use the component output then I'm pretty sure it's outputting 1080i, HDMI is 1080p. That might help.
post #177 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by sforza View Post

Couldn't that cause burn in ?

I would think so. 16:9 is probably the best bet if you are concerned with burn-in, even if it's a slightly less accurate picture.
post #178 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by goedken1 View Post

Does your Xbox have an HDMI output (mine does, but the older ones don't). If you use the component output then I'm pretty sure it's outputting 1080i, HDMI is 1080p. That might help.

I do have an HDMI cable but I have been using the component since I have a spdif connection going to my receiver.


For games the 360 can do 1080p over component
post #179 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik C. Johnson View Post

After some testing and reading I have found that these settings to be satifactory for removing all of those brightness pops that have been occuring to me on my TV. I should say that I do prefer things to be a bit natural and on the darker side.

For 2D:

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 68
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: Whatever you like
Color: 45
Tint: G52/R48

Advance Settings:
Everything Off
Gamma +1


For 3D:

Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: Whatever you like
Color: 72
Tint: G52/R48

Advance Settings:
Everything Off

You can use Cinema Smooth if you like it.

How do you like things on the "darker side" but watch your 2D content on cell light 20 and gamma +1??? On my 59", it hurts to look at the screen in those settings without the 3D glasses on. Is yours in a brightly lit room?
post #180 of 1918
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankthetoad View Post

I tested two scenes from a Pacific episode that Aletuner was having his contrast popping issues with. I didn't have the problem. I have not experienced a single contrast popping in black levels playing a handful of PS3 games, several BDs, and at least 25 hours of HD programming.

I did continue to watch the Pacific episode past the point where Aletuner had experienced his problems. I did have a shift in contrast when there was a scene with a particularly white sky. When the camera would bring the sky in view it would be very bright. A second later the brightness of the sky shifted down a bit. Much like what you folks seem to be describing with your black levels...but on the white end of the spectrum. Not sure if this is the same problem, but I've only seen it this one time.


That is interesting, it does sound like a different issue then. If the black levels were floating, you would probably only notice it on dark scene or a scene quickly shifting between dark and bright. What your TV is doing sounds much less anoying or noticable.
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