Official Samsung 2011 PNxxD550 Thread - Page 59

Thanks for posting those! I'll give them a whirl.

Does the E550 have much better pic quality than the D550 or about the same? Similar glossy screen?

I'm sorry, but why the hell did you bother getting it calibrated in the first place if you're just going to change it? And especially those settings. Of all the settings to choose from, you chose colour temperature and HDMI black level...
You've now got horrible colour reproduction, terrible black level detail and massive mid range boosting.
What a waste...

On another note, after 8 months mine has developed a pink pixel flicker at the top of the screen, mostly to the left. This is noticeable mostly when the APL is kicking in while displaying relatively bright images.

As this panel is on my HTPC, I also notice horizontal lines following bright areas of the screen while scrolling through web pages. ie, if there is say, a high contrast dark box (ie, white background, black or deep coloured box) and I scroll up or down, there will be a shadow that extends horizontally all the way across the screen that follows that box. I could live with it, but now that this pink pixel thing is happening I need to get it looked at...

Well finally decided to upgrade our family room home theatre set and settled on the PN64D550. Got it home and set it up yesterday....this thing is slightly large. Replaces a 52 in Sharp, so fairly significant difference in screen size. Very pleased with the picture quality, especially with Bluray or PS3 games. Unit does seem to have a slight buzz to it. It may have been more noticeable when playing ps3 games (720p may have something to do with this as other posters have commented). I will give it some time to see if it gets better, worse etc.

First time plasma owner and I'm impressed with picture quality. Is it still recommended to "break in" plasma sets? or is this no longer necessary with newer models? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.

No offense, but how in the hell do you know what my set looks like? Have you snuck into my livingroom when I was not looking and take some readings? Setup your tripod and everything?? LOL Troll on somewhere else mister "expert"

as your username implies, you have an attitude problem.
Like he said, you paid for a professional calibration, then proceeded to change it... DUH!

Hello,

I have a PN51D550, I have had lots of trouble with it, Within 3 months, I have had the logic board replace, voltage adjusted, and eventually it stopped coming on two weeks after the voltage adjustment (( all this was done by a samsung tech)).. Anyways Samsung rather than getting me a new TV, Sent a tech to my house with all the parts to build me a new TV. Watching him do it it was a lot like assembling a computer from the motherboard up. Anyways the TV looks fantastic. Watching HD TV right now and its amazing. Though I am having a little bit of difficulties, I hope someone can help. I am currently watching in 16:9, though it cuts off some of the images on my HDMI devices (PS3 and Charter Cable Box) The reason I have to do 16:9 is because of image retention ((pixel shift doesn't work in screen fit mode)). I do play a lot of games ((wii and PS3)) and I have been having all kinds of image retention issues. I can have a health bar on a screen for no more than like 5 minutes and it starts to do image retention, even with pixel shift on. Before he rebuilt/built a new TV I didn't have any image retention problems.

I hope you all can give me some advice. Also can anyone send me their calibrations/picture settings. I would quite thankful.

Thanks,

Dustin

The panel they replaced it with may have more retention, these things do vary and it could also have different materials than your original. The pixel orbiter really doesn't do much except fuzz the edges of static images so you'll just have to be careful. Scrub the gaming retention with at least twice as much mixed non-static material. So for example if you game for an hour follow it with 2 or more hours of normal mixed content. Same thing applies to channel logos (ESPN etc.). This ratio can gradually be reduced after many hours (100s) of usage, just keep an eye on it.

So my wife has been watching food network for about 15 minutes (shorter than the time I was playing Final Fantasy) and the food network logo isn't doing any image retention. I reduced my Contrast to 50 (the same as all my other settings) that seems to have helped the issue a lot. I am still in 16:9 with the pixel shifting enabled to start shifting pixels after 1 minute of static image. Later tonight I am going to set it to screen fit and see what happens. I also ran the scrolling gray scale thing the TV has for a couple hours today. A friend recommended that I do that for a few hours every day to get the TV broke in.

My current settings are:

Dynamic
Cell Light: 10
Contrast/Brightness/Sharpness/Color 50
Tint (G/R) g50/r50
Color Tone Cool
Noise Filter Auto
Mpeg Noise Filter Auto
Picture Size 16:9

Pixel Shift: On
Horizontal 4
Vertical 4
Time 1 min

Thanks,

Dustin

When you are running normal images without logo's etc. use normal cell light and contrast settings (cell=20, contrast=80-95 depending on room light). This will age the panel faster (and look a lot better). If you want a more accurate image use movie mode and warm 2 color tone, these have no effect on retention.

Warm 2 Color tone seems really red to me, maybe it is just me and my weird vision caused by my brain deformity but when I do warm everything has a red tint to it, does it seem that way to everyone LOL. To me the cool look more normal to me, like I said it could just be me. Anyways thanks for the advice. So for gaming though I should keep my contrast and cell light as they are right to prevent retention, or am I confused. I wasn't sure what you meant by "these have no effect on retention". Did you just mean color tones or all of the setting you mention have no effect on retention. I appreciate the advice and help. I know very little about plasma TVs I got it when it was on sale, and unfortunately 3 months after purchase I had to get the logic board replaced and voltage adjusted, then one day it just stopped turning on. Instead of Samsung sending me a new TV or Best Buy taking it back etc, Samsung sent the service tech who put the logic board in all new parts and he pretty much constructed me a new TV in my living room. Only thing I have from my original TV is the Frame that says Samsung on it and my remote LOL. Thankfully it was under warranty. Since I have gotten it back etc I have been really careful with it.

Also I was just looking when you said set it to movie, do I leave all the brightness etc on default or do I edit it all to 50%?

Thanks,

Dustin

Stuff looking reddish at warm setting is normal because your brain has adapted to the cool setting. If you watched it at warm for a few days it would look normal and cool will look too blue. It's up to you, set it how you like but the warm temperature is closer to how movies are intended to look. If you use movie mode just set contrast/cell light to the range I recommended above when no static images are present. For gaming/logos turning down the contrast doesn't really help because it's the differential between the static image and the rest of the image that matters. For material with black bars top or bottom it will help to turn down the contrast for the first couple hundred hours.

Hello,

Thanks for taking your time with all the advice, just one last clarification, on movie mode, do I do things like leave the sharpness at 20 (movie mode's default etc?)

Purists will say set it at 0 but I've found anywhere 20 or below is fine

I have some real good calibration settings from a local guy, that in my opinion does a real good job. So here it is.

I've got the 59" and I love it. My only real complaint is the buzz.

Just finished the live chat with Samsung and will be getting the 1019.5 firmware update in the mail. I love this TV...the brightness pops have been the only downside.

Keep hearing about those POP's??? I've never had one in six months I've had this fantastic HDTV. Nor am I hearing any buzz. Of course I have a great sound system hooked up to it is maybe why.

I just had a pop or more like someone snapping their fingers I was watching the new Star Wars on blu-ray me and my girls I should say (5 and 3) and they love it btw. But anyway we were watching and the screen starting flashing like a strobe light real fast like;....I tryed to turn it off with the remote to no avail I get up walk to the TV but before I could get to the TV !!!SNAP!!! thats the sound it made like somone snapped their finger real loud went off and would not come back on. So I unplug it for about ten minutes. Plugged it back up try to turn it back on would not come back on at all then after about 30-45 minutes it come on by itself? But when it does I have to set it all back up just like when I first got it. Had to set the language, time, time zone, channel search etc. Even all of my calibrated pq settings. Set up service with Samsung they are gonna give me a new panel, mother board. They said the only old part would be the speakers, power converter, bezel, and remote. Thats a heck of a deal considering they do it all at the house and its not gonna cost me anything except the calibration I paid for that is now no good. I did have all the settings wrote down though. I'll try them and see if it works if not i'll see if I can get them to come back and recalibrate it if I tell therm what happened. That's about all I got to say about that.

I would keep an eye on it that sounds bad. Maybe capacitors were slowly blowing out or things were over heating..

Dustin

I think I had "brightness pops," as well. Is it when you're watching a show/movie, and everything just gets a bit brighter? Even the "widescreen bars" turn to a dark grey. I downloaded the firmware myself, and updated the TV. No problems with it since.

Why would you want to do that? Don't you have the one that came with your TV?

It's been approx 4 months since I got the D550, and the first settings that I used (and am still using) are shown below. I use the Warm2 Movie settings for 95% of TV and 100% of movies. The skin tones look really good to me, and I am very happy with the colors. But for some things like Golf and maybe hockey, I have my Standard settings that I switch to which are slightly cooler (using Warm1).

I went through 2 weeks of hell trying to get my previous Panny 55ST30 looking good, but gave up and got the D550. Right out of the box and with the below settings, the D550 has been awesome

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1321001419
Picture preset: Movie
Cell light 18
Contrast 90
Brightness: 52
Sharpness: 15
Tint: G50/G50
Black Tone Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma 0
Colour Space Auto
Flesh Tone 0
Edge enhancement Off
Motion lighting Off
Color tone Warm2
Digital Noise Filter Off
MPEG Noise Filter Off
Digital Noise Filter Off
HDMI Black level Low
Film mode Off
Size Screen Fit
R-Offset 26
G-Offset 24
B-Offset 26
R-Gain 30
G-Gain 20
B-Gain 29

Hello,

I switched to your settings, they look pretty nice, I can't change my HDMI Black Level, even though I am using an HDMI input.. this is sort of confusing to me, any advice?

Dustin

Now that you mention it, my HDMI Black Level is set to "Normal", and it is grayed out so that it can't be changed to "Low". Hmmm.

I found this post that seems to be discussing this as well, but I'm not fully understanding yet. Let me know if you figure it out!

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1323243/official-samsung-2011-pnxxd550-thread/750#post_20567059

At least on my set, HDMI Black Level = Normal (with the rest of the settings that I posted) looks good to me. But if you find other settings that you like better, please post them.

Edit: I also found the below post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1323243/official-samsung-2011-pnxxd550-thread/1320#post_21430535

It says:
"The only time CS or HDMI black level will be available is with "film" material. Wont work with 60FPS content."
"You need to set your blu-ray player to output in 24FPS."

But I just tried that. I am playing a PS3 bluray movie at 24FPS off of my HDMI2 port, and I still can't change the HDMI Black Level from Normal. Weird.
Edited by WayneNumm - 6/18/12 at 8:14pm

Yet another issue with my TV.. now I have a pixel screwing up, this is the 3rd issue with the tv in a month... First it was a bad logic board and voltage needed to be corrected, then it stopped turning on one day, thus samsung replaced the panel, now (on new panel) I am having a pixel flash random colors when the tv is trying to display certain colors on that pixel. Got my TV back in Feb. So far its been nothing but a head ache.. Samsung's returns/refund department is suppose to be calling me within a day or two. I hope they make this right. I am getting frustrated because it is a beautiful TV. Also with the new panel image retention seems to be a bigger issue than before, and I have done the minimum settings thing for the first 100 hours etc.. My daughter watches Disney Jr. before daycare for a half hour then I have to run the grey scale scrolling thing to get rid of the Disney Jr. logo (no matter the settings it has always done this with logos, other panel they had on it didn't seem to do this as bad) Oh well I just hope Samsung makes this right.

Dustin

That's a drag - sorry to hear it. I am wondering if the image retention is also due to your particular set seeming dodgy. I did 200 hours of initial safe viewing, and I am not noticing any IR. But you would think that 100 hours should be enough. Then again, I'm not watching channels with solid logos very often. Hmm. Anyway, I hope you get the issues sorted out. It sure is a pain dealing with TV's when they are not living up to expectations (or in your case, when you are dealing with obvious faults).