Originally Posted by charles2006
Now my only draw back is ghosting. flicker is nearly non-existent on my VPL50 as i display to my screen. There is some, but it is minor, not that much different then using my Panasonic VT25 - 3D plasma shows with its glasses.
However i have ghosting. Now this could be polarity, or delay or cycle ??
I am going to try switching polarity first, and then get into delay changes with the glasses?
BTW -- has anyone have experience with the Bit-Caldron BCS500 USB utility program? i have a copy and i am wondering would i have to run a second USB cable from the emitter itself to alter and use the program / util?
Right now i have a single cable going from the VIP-Theater 3D unit to my HTPC to provide power, works fine, and the emitter is connected of course via the sync cable, but i do not run a second USB cable.
I have not tested this yet, just obtained the program, but could the program pass through the VIP-Theater and affect the emitter? or more likly i need a second usb cable?
Also does the emitter have to be placed in to adjustment mode with the emitter joystick? or the USB software need not concern with this it can still alter the emitter without placing the emitter in the mode?
So far the setup is really intersting, i am not sure yet about the ghosting issue, if anyone has issues with ghosting and what they did i would like to hear some tweaks?
So far CIH and the Theater and my VP50 all live nicely together, and i can get 1080p/60 and still see 3D so it looks very promising.
thank you for litening
Delay has the greatest effect for ghosting but it can have some interaction with duty cycle. So if you change duty cycle after setting delay first you might have to touch up delay again.
I usually make the adjustment with the main movie screen where it asks to play move, special features and other stuff. I like using the text characters to tune out any ghosting, after that everything else looks fine.
To enter adjustment mode:
Hold jstick to left until the 2nd LED lights, release, after that moving jstick up/down increases/decreases "delay. Jstick adjusted L/R increases/decreases "duty cycle".
When your satisfied with those settings, do not move jstick anymore and it will return to normal mode after a 2minute timeout.
So, again, start with delay then duty cycle. Notice that duty cycle affects brightness levels, so find the compromise that results in the best visual effect.
As far as polarity, if it is wrong you will lose 3D depth. A quick test for comparison if you suspect that, is take off the glasses and view through them upside down, in effect swapping lenses between eyes. If depth is noticably improved then do a polarity change.