3D Theatre - VIP Product Thread - Page 57

I tried that too and it didn't work. As you already know (but I'm not sure if it's a Sony issue or if it's the same with all HDMI 1.4) but the HDMI 1.4 loop needs to be complete on both ends (1.4 input/1.4 output) and it's not recognizing the ViP as 1.4 capable when it's at the end of the loop. I've had a similar issue when I had a Sony BX57 3D BDP earlier in the year, but the 1.4 loop wasn't complete as I had a GT720 PJ at the end of the loop and that was connected to my 1.4 HDMI video card, and the Sony AVR was connected to a AverMedia 3D HD HDMI capture card - and the Sony BX57 was connected to the Sony AVR.

I'll try it again when I get home from work in a couple hours. If I get that on-screen message, I'll take a snap-shot (Plus, I want to go ahead and document the steps I've been trying - manually putting the BDP into SBS mode, trying the HDMI splitter if putting the ViP after the AVR still doesn't work, etc etc.)

Just ordered VIP RF glasses from Consignia and they arrived Optoma RF glasses. I didn't see the Optoma post until after I ordered. I only purchased one pair but for a few dollars more I could had had two pair If I ordered Optoma's on Amazon. They are the same glasses.

I placed the VIP after the AVR and this is the result:

3D signal detected, but the picture was still 2D



I pressed the SBS/Top-Bottom button on the back of the VIP and the screen went blank:



I made sure that the BDT-210 was set for Side-By-Side:



The AVR does not recognize the VIP as a HDMI 1.4 device, so this is the message I received:



Once I removed the AVR out of the loop, the 3D was working fine and I could now see the 3D menu while playing the 3DBD (this wasn't available when the AVR was in the Loop)



I tried using the Sewell HDMI splitter after the the VIP as an attempt to split the video (to the PJ) and the sound (to the DH-710 AVR), but this didn't work. The splitter worked fine when the PJ was connected, but as soon as I connected the HDMI to the AVR, I got snow on the screen. I guess for now I'm stuck with the TOSLINK.

I spent the last several minutes manual tweaking the distance settings to reduce the ghosting and came to the conclusion that this VIP is useless to me. It's worse that any fake 2D to 3D converter I've seen. At least those converters didn't have double images (ghosting) and barely any depth. Geez, I'd feel really bad trying to sell this to somebody on Ebay but what choice do I have besides throwing it away? On a positive note, the TOSLINK isn't that bad. Dolby Pro Logic IIx sounds good enough for now.

You might have to power up your devices in a particular order for the AVR to recognize it. Make sure your Theatre power supply is at least 1 amp too.

I have a DVDO Duo between my PS3 and the Theatre unit with an Acer 720p 3D ready DLP projector and I never see any ghosting ever! Works flawlessly. Using the RF glasses and RF emitter. When I tried my JVC LCOS projector at 60 Hz I had to reduce the duty cycle on the glasses to around 60% to reduce ghosting and even that didn't fully eliminate it. So could it be your projector? I gave up on the JVC. Still use my JVC for 2D viewing.

Ron

What kind of power are you providing to the VIP? I have mine on a 5V 1A USB charger for MP3 players that I got at Best Buy. No issues whatsoever of the type you are describing, and my BDP is a Panasonic 210 like yours.

I'm using the USB cable that came with the device. I've tried using the power from the PC and I used a Motorola adapter that plugs into a socket. I can barely read the small print but it looks like 5.1V 850mA. Same results.

Are you using a 1080p LCD projector like mine? What about the glasses? RF, too?


BTW, since I have the HDMI going straight to the VIP and Projector, I just tried using the "original" 3D setting (not selecting SBS) and the 3D shows up now, albeit blurry and double-image.

I have 5 green lights on the RF emitter. I tried using that joystick to calibrate but I don't know what the heck I'm doing with it. I'm looking at the instructions for the emitter but it's not making much sense since I already have 5 green lights.

I'm using an older 1080i CRT RPTV. The glasses are the RF models from VIP, and I just recently bought 2 pairs of the Optoma RF glasses-they're the same as the VIP ones. Only the logo is different.

FWIW, I don't use the joystick on the emitter for adjustments. That's more frustration than it's worth. I use the VIP 3D USB Management Utility instead. You do have to run another (micro) USB cable out to the emitter from the computer the utility is running on, but it's no big deal and can be removed after the adjustments are made and saved to the emitter.

I have 3 of these glasses.

Do you have a link to the 3D management utility? A Google search only revealed your post above.

Bumping this one as I also have a 1080ub

Also does any one know what effect having the iris on has.

No link, since there isn't a direct one. Go to http://www.3d-vip.com/
Select "Products", then "3D Glasses". At the bottom of the page that appears, next to the large photo of the glasses and emitter, select "Download BC5100 Installer", and your download will begin.

I do have to mention that I just finished going through the Epson website's online user's manual for the 8100, and I don't see it mentioned anywhere that it accepts 120 Hz input, which is what it appears to be reporting in your photo of the dark screen with Epson logo. Have you tried the Theater in 60 Hz mode?

Thanks, I downloaded it.

The image you're referring to is when I attempted to press the SBS button on the back of the VIP Theater. Because it tried to use a 120hz frequency, the image on screen went blank. Yes, I tried the 60hz mode, that is what I've been referring to above. There is a lot of flicker in 60hz.

I may try this on my 60hz LG LCD TV, but I'm thinking that the LCD at 60hz is the issue. From what I gather, DLP is not an issue, especially at 120hz. At any rate, I think I'm going to buy that new Acer 1080p DLP projector, Acer H9500BD. I'll cut my loss with this VIP device. In the meantime, I have a new Acer HN274H 3D monitor to tide me over. Sitting 2 1/2 feet away from this 27" monitor is almost as good/looks almost the same as sitting 12 feet away from my 150" screen. The only problem is that this is good for me only, not the entire family.

I'm interested by the thought of passive polarized with two projectors.
I have read this thread from the start and someone had mentioned that LCD panels are already somewhat polarized.

Would this be prohibitive for a dual projector set up using LCD projectors?

I use the zoom method for 2.35 and a shadow masking at the projector so two PJ would also help with the lumen level. Plus I need a good excuse to buy a good 2.35 screen.

I would be up for buying a second Epson 1080ub to match my current pj. But it would seem to be getting too close to buying a high end 3d unit if I would need to buy 2 DLP projector and the unknown price of a upcoming theater+.

I would have no use for 7.2 decoding as my audio setup is complete as I feel I need at this time. But the idea of doubling my light output is exciting with 3d content.*

What would be Needed to set this up besides the two PJ, silver screen and if it becomes available the theater+?

You got a lot of different things you are trying but let's just get back to a basic setup to see if you can get better results from the projector. Forget SBS for now and use the Resident Evil 3D disk and hook up like this:

BluRay>>Theater>>Projector

1. Use the shortest HDMI cables for now.

2. Disable any special video processing on the projector, real 3D Ready projectors will generally grey those options out anyway. Keep notes on what you disabled.

3. 850ma power is too borderline and causes unpredictable results. One amp minimum or better.

With Resident Evil you should get a normal doubled image in frame-pack mode.

4. Enter Tuning Mode on the transmitter. If you currently see all 5 LEDs lit just momentarily bump jstick UP to clear. Now hold Jstick UP until only 2 LEDs are lit and quickly release.

You are in Tuning Mode, now press UP for RED LEDS, this is Delay Cycle and it has the greatest effect on ghosting, press Jstick Down and minimize until only 1 LED is barely lit. Gradually increase until ghosting is minimized as best as possible. Pressing L/R AMBER LEDs changes Duty Cycle and has the greatest effect on brightness levels. Find a compromise between the brightness and ghosting that you can achieve.

If all is well then leave the transmitter alone for around 2 minutes and the settings will be saved. If you change video displays or playback sources you will more than likely have to do it over. Only one setting is saved and overwrites the previous.

The Theater may have it's own issues but you need to get back to basics first and work up.

Thanks. I missed this post earlier.

I have two question one is Can i see 3d on my 1080p LCD screen and My second question is will it display great quality like the HD33 if there is another projector with this device that will do the same or better please let me know

I wonder the 3D-VIP can work with an old CRT projector? like Sony D50/G70..etc.
since some of my friends know I'm looking for 3D-VIP and they also interest in it.
as I know, Sony D50 the MAX only 75Hz and G70 have 120Hz.

the 3D performance will as good as those LCD/DLP projector?

actually I also an CRT projector user, but it was too old, Seleco HB400....¬_¬ there is no HDMI port also no assessory like Sony's HDMI card for CRT projector.

also for Blu-ray Movie is it need a Scaler before the signal pass to projector? (I think no,right? since the signal already is 1080p)

I have heard of good results with some of the CRT projectors which I believe had HDMI cards. Best one to ask is Kal at the Curt Palme site, there is also a VIP3D forum there as well.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/

The Theater rescales the 3D output to 1280x720P/60 or 120 depending on the switch setting from Bluray movies. There is not enough memory for the Theater to accommodate 1080P and 7.1 audio.

I'm pretty sure this is the case and would prevent you from doing dual projector passive 3D. We set up a lot of dual projector passive units but they are all with DLP projectors.

I think I have heard of some specialized LCD projectors with custom filtering in dual 90 degree orrientations, but that is rare. (See Barco "Duet")

David

As Dave said, maybe not prohibitive, but certainly limiting. Here's a thread started by someone who did it with a couple Epsons:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19685091

I might be interested in that, but do they have to be 3D DLP projectors or would this work with any 2 similar projectors? What is the "moderate priced adapter" and how moderate is the price tag? If someone had an LCD projector, could they just buy another?

Don't need to be 3D DLP projectors but they would both need to be like 2 HD66 or H5360 so that the optical system has the best chance of convergence.

Matching LCD projectors should work but with whatever weaknesses that would be inherent in them if any. But I would think most would lean to DLP because of the excellent brightness levels to work with in the 3D environment.

Don't have any pricing to report as I would not expect such hardware to not be in the cheap zone. But if it was presented in the $600-1200 range that would be considered moderate in my opinion. Helps take the glasses costs out of the equation.

Thanks again. I really appreciate all of the technical information I've gotten out of this thread. Being the cheapskate (from a long line of cheapskates) that I am, I'll probably wait for the Theater +. It seems like the best bridge for me until a reasonably priced passive 3D projector hits the market (not that this option isn't pretty reasonable......I just want MORE reasonable). Anyway, I love my Sanyo PLV Z2000. It's plenty bright enough for my needs as I have almost absolute light control. The resolution is such that I can sit 11 feet away from a 120" screen with virtually no pixelation.

There are some new 2nd generation integrated passive projectors (single lense) out there and we will wait to see how these will be marketed in the
consumer price range.

I'll sure be waiting. When I see the cost of the current passive 3D projectors, I begin to feel very poor. I'll continue to consider the option of using two projectors as long as I'm sure getting another Sanyo (like the one I have) will actually work. Just out of curiosity, it would seem like brightness wouldn't really be much of an issue with the two projector solution if the brightness is okay now....true?

Also, if I've got 1080p projectors, wouldn't that give me (up to) full 1080p passive 3D or is lower resolution a blu ray limitation? From what you've said, it appears this adapter is something you expect to see on the market soon?? What does it do? I'm not an expert in optics, but am an electronic engineer (or was really) so I'm probably not going to be overly confused by the details.

I understand you may have some inside information which you can't divulge, but anything you can tell me would be appreciated?

you can do 2 projector 3D with LCD projectors but you need to be careful based on inherent polarization. DLP projectors do not have this problem. You can also go the infitec
route which doesn't use polarization filters but spectral filters and doesn't require a silver screen. This forum and others have info on these methods. I looked for bookmarks I thought I had for some articles and links but couldn't find them.

here's a link on this forum for a passive 3d setup

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1299974

the 3D-VIP Displayer able to play the BD iso and BDMV files?? since, I also planning to setup a HTPC. Thanks!~

I don't consider myself an expert but it would make sense since shutter type glasses have a duty cycle, there is an inherent light loss depending on their shutter frequency. Outside of the tint structure and material of passive glasses there should be less of an effect.

I believe you are correct in full 1080P assumptions for your 1080P projectors.

Most for the sake of economy, would probably go the HD66 of H5360 route to achieve 1280x720P.

An adapter may make it's appearance probably around 8/2012.

The main compromise I see at this point is that optical quality that is affordable to most of us, you would just have to converge the best you could and accept the results. In that regard the integrated projectors may have that advantage using a single lense. MKoss's link to passive seems to give an indication of using two lenses of that issue.

I guess it gets down to whether one wants to go to the expense of avoiding powered shutter glasses and using the cheaper RealD type glasses or just being satisfied with the way things are outside of resolution and frequency.

I've avoided bringing up anything in regards to color rendition with either systems. I have been satisfied up to this point just using RF glasses with an AE4000 at 60hz, others are more demanding.

I too am running an HTPC and it is not so much the 3D-VIP ability to play as it is the HTPC's ability to play the content. I use TMT5 or Power DVD 11 (depending on what I'm doing/watching) I use unraid over gigabit network to stream my backed-up 3d bluray, and encoded 3d media. The information I got via email from Kal is the 3D-VIP Theater is only looking at the sources ability to send the 3d signal. If a signal is found it does it's thing... The 3D-VIP is not looking nor cares about the container the media is in. This only works through a player named above or similar... No "internet streaming vids" sorry...

Displayer and theater only not gamer..

cheers...

so anything can output the 3D signal from HDMI 1.4 then 3D-VIP theatre/Displayer also can process and come out the 3D movies from the 2D TV/projector, right?