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The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 6

post #151 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

My workflow is basically like this:
1. Set up camera at angle #1 and shoot for a while
2. Move camera around while I work (no less than 20 minutes per angle if I can help it)
3. Yaknow, do the theatre build (the easy part!) (real time)
4. Slurp all of the frames into Adobe Lightroom (~25 minutes over USB2... ugh)
5. Adjust all frames for lens distortion correction (a unique feature of Lightroom 3) to remove the fisheye look (~ 10 minutes)
6. Adjust all frames in bulk for color, exposure, brightness, saturation, and ISO noise (~ 20 minutes)
7. Export all frames as max-quality JPEG (the GoPro shoots JPEGs natively) (~ 60 minutes)
8. Import each sequence (each angle) into QuickTime Pro 7 and export to Apple ProRes 422 video clips (~ 10 minutes per angle)
9. Import Apple ProRes 422 video clips into Final Cut Pro X and pre-analyze for color balance (~ 2 minutes per clip)
10. Sequence clips together on the timeline (~ 15 minutes)
11. Pan and Scan each angle to fit in 16x9 frame (this is how I get the panning effects and is also the reason why I'm mastering at such a ridiculously high resolution) (~ 5 minutes per angle)
12. Color grade all clips (~ 5 minutes per angle)
13. Add titles, transitions, effects (~45 minutes)
14. Hunt for music (must be royalty-free or Creative Commons) (~ 15 minutes to 2 hours [seriously... finding music for this is annoying])
15. Render, compress, and export to 1080p h.264 (~ 10-25 minutes [depends on length and complexity of video])
16. Upload to YouTube (~ 15-30 minutes depending on file size)

I'm doing all of this on a Mac Pro with eight 2.8GHz cores and 18GB of RAM on an SSD drive hooked up to a 30" monitor. I can't imagine how long this would take on a more average dual-core computer.

But NOW I'm starting to complicate the process by shooting with my Canon dSLR on a motion-control rig. This rig will propel my 7D along a 6-foot track taking 18 megapixel still frames every second then moving a fraction of an inch and taking another. Way cool!



I don't even put that much time into my HT build! No wonder we don't see more people posting those clips! Thanks for taking the time to do all that for us schmoes!

Party on, dude!!
post #152 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

That's quite the workflow. I was thinking I was going to impress with video walkthroughs of my space taken with my iPod Nano... there won't be any post-processing in my workflow, I can assure you!

What have you gotten for the motion rig? I saw recently a video about Kessler Crane's equipment designed for this - pretty slick.

Kessler's equipment is excellent. I went with a Dynamic Perception Stage Zero motion control system because it is such an amazing deal. The price of the entire system including the slider, motion controller, carriage, etc. is less than the cost of just the Kessler control box. The DP doesn't do as much though but it does what I want.

I especially like that the DP is an open source design.

Don't feel bad about the Nano footage! I think that any video is better than no video!
post #153 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hanesian View Post



I don't even put that much time into my HT build! No wonder we don't see more people posting those clips! Thanks for taking the time to do all that for us schmoes!

Party on, dude!!

LOL! Thanks, man!
post #154 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Final can-light count installed in the soffits: 21.

There is now a total of 31 recessed lights in this room! I have been looking at the various Grafik Eyes. I think that I'm going to go with a 4-zone QS series unit mostly because they have a new load type that the 3000 series doesn't have: LED. I had a nice talk with Lutron the other day about the LED recessed modules I'm using and they strongly suggested that I go with the QS series.

It's amazing... the LED trims are $39 each. For comparison, an eyeball trim is $15-20 and the bulbs are $5-9 each. Given how quickly those bulbs blow out and the increased thermal load they would add to the room I decided to spend the money on the front-side instead of on the back side in the form of AC bills and bulb replacements. Those LED cans are sweet!

So! Now I've got to go about wiring these things up. I figured out the zone configuration that I want and calculated the loads. I even calculated the loads for incandescent bulbs to make sure that the Grafik Eye won't get all zappy and ornery if someone decides to take out the LEDs and install something else in the future.

I've also decided, rather reluctantly, to remove a big chunk of my ceiling.

I have been hearing a strange clicking sound up there from the main drain pipe. If the bathtub is draining, for instance, you can hear this loud tapping sound on the floor above the theatre. I put my ear to the floor and it sounds like someone is tapping on the floor from underneath using a ball-peen hammer. Not good.
post #155 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I've also decided, rather reluctantly, to remove a big chunk of my ceiling.

I have been hearing a strange clicking sound up there from the main drain pipe. If the bathtub is draining, for instance, you can hear this loud tapping sound on the floor above the theatre. I put my ear to the floor and it sounds like someone is tapping on the floor from underneath using a ball-peen hammer. Not good.

I found the same in the ceiling above the kids playroom. When the dishwasher drains, the scalding hot water makes the pipes knock. Luckily I can't hear it in the theater room.
post #156 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinstripes View Post

I found the same in the ceiling above the kids playroom. When the dishwasher drains, the scalding hot water makes the pipes knock. Luckily I can't hear it in the theater room.

Knocking, eh... Hmmm. So there might not be a leaking problem? It's not the sound I'm concerned about it's the potential for disaster!
post #157 of 1281
I have a drainline in my ceiling that made a clicking noise when draining. Did it since we moved in and never leaked. Since my walls are closed in and insulated, I rarely notice it. I wouldn't open up your sheetrock.
post #158 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I have a drainline in my ceiling that made a clicking noise when draining. Did it since we moved in and never leaked. Since my walls are closed in and insulated, I rarely notice it. I wouldn't open up your sheetrock.

I really REALLY like the way you think.
post #159 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post


Knocking, eh... Hmmm. So there might not be a leaking problem? It's not the sound I'm concerned about it's the potential for disaster!

Depends on when house was built, recent houses have poly piping and it doesn't knock......
post #160 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Depends on when house was built, recent houses have poly piping and it doesn't knock......

'87. Still makes me nervous.
post #161 of 1281
Thread Starter 
FYI, wiring 21 recessed lights with 12/2 is tedious and boring.
post #162 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

FYI, wiring 21 recessed lights with 12/2 is tedious and boring.

Fingers sore yet?
post #163 of 1281
Great build thread Jon - and love the vids too like most others.

In case you're still wondering AT or not, I'd say go AT. I chose not to and am now wishing I had to cleanup the look, and to get the L/R away from the corners.

Don't worry about the pipe noise - this is usually from the pipe rubbing against a stud or joist as it expands and contracts when hot water warms it up. Test it with filling the bath with room temp water - you should hear no clicking in this case.

If it drives you crazy, open up the wall and find a way to support the pipe such that is does not touch any wood - easier said than done though.

Dave
post #164 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Fingers sore yet?

post #165 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBoswell View Post

Great build thread Jon - and love the vids too like most others.

In case you're still wondering AT or not, I'd say go AT. I chose not to and am now wishing I had to cleanup the look, and to get the L/R away from the corners.

Don't worry about the pipe noise - this is usually from the pipe rubbing against a stud or joist as it expands and contracts when hot water warms it up. Test it with filling the bath with room temp water - you should hear no clicking in this case.

If it drives you crazy, open up the wall and find a way to support the pipe such that is does not touch any wood - easier said than done though.

Dave

Thank you, Dave! I appreciate your compliment and I'm glad that you're enjoying the videos. I'm rarely aware that people are watching the videos. I have always assumed that the ratio of people who watch the videos to people that comment on them is about 100:1 so I try to keep my spirits up.

Screen Talk
I have decided completely to go with an AT screen. I'm rather fond of the price and quality of the Seymour Center Stage XD after playing with the sample they sent. I can get DaLite and Stewart at cost but the *retail* price of the Seymour is still at or below the cost of those brands.

Speaker Talk
In fact, the decision to go AT has given me pause about my rear channels. I have a pair of the big floorstanding Meridian DSP 5000 speakers for the rears but I have nowhere to hide them in the room. If I were to build a column to hide a DSP 5000 it would be comically out of proportion to the room. The AT decision has made me think about using in-ceiling speakers for the side and rear channels... Anyone got an opinion on that one?

Plumbing Talk
It's reassuring to hear that the pipe noise is relatively common. There is, however, a water stain on the ceiling of the theatre that I noticed when we bought the house. My wife swears that it's getting bigger but I can't tell. I've tried to get my head up in there to see but those can lights are nailed into the studs. I'll have to hire someone really skinny to squeeze into the ceiling through the closet to check it out.

Video Talk
I have been working busily down in the theatre this afternoon. The videos are coming along well but today my son decided he wanted to be a movie star! He is in all of the shots building stuff with my leftover lumber! I'm just glad that he's finally starting to show some interest in the room beyond telling neighbors that we're "building a movie theatre but it's not going to be done for a couple years."
post #166 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post



Knew that was coming.....

Don't skimp on speakers. If you find in-walls that make you happy, go for it, but IMO they're always a compromise on performance for aesthetics.

TWO YEARS!?
post #167 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I have always assumed that the ratio of people who watch the videos to people that comment on them is about 100:1 so I try to keep my spirits up.

The vids are the reason this is one of the four or five threads I always read when they pop to the top of the forum. They are professional caliber and strongly correlate to what I'm doing in my space. What more could I ask for! Stellar job!

There; now you've got 200 watchers.

By the way, I have a 6yo son who like to "help" from time to time, too. I love it!
post #168 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Knew that was coming.....

Don't skimp on speakers. If you find in-walls that make you happy, go for it, but IMO they're always a compromise on performance for aesthetics.

TWO YEARS!?

The Meridian DSP 5000 speakers aren't thoroughly ugly and I already have them so I'm probably going to stick with 'em. They sure are extremely capable performers!

Two years... Yeah, my son's perspective on time is a little off. It's just funny listening to him tell his friends and our neighbors about the project.
post #169 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegravley View Post

The vids are the reason this is one of the four or five threads I always read when they pop to the top of the forum. They are professional caliber and strongly correlate to what I'm doing in my space. What more could I ask for! Stellar job!

There; now you've got 200 watchers.

By the way, I have a 6yo son who like to "help" from time to time, too. I love it!

Oh, wow. That's nice of you to say, Steve, thank you. Try not to use my build as an example too much though, I'm winging most of this!

And hey, like Tony123 and others have said... this room is for the family to enjoy. If I don't keep my son involved in the process he won't appreciate it as much in the future.
post #170 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Hey folks. I have a wiring question. I have been working hard on getting the can lights installed and wired but now I have a decision to make.

The rear zone of lights can be wired two ways. I can either run about 75 feet of 12/2 all the way around the left, front, and right walls or I can puncture the ceiling as shown here, zip over 3 feet to the rear soffit, and be on my way.

The actual electrical junction will take place inside the can light's junction box on both sides so I would consider this safe. Do I have to install two ceiling boxes to do this or can I just poke holes? The soffits will be sealed up once I'm done, of course.

post #171 of 1281
Thread Starter 
and yes... I'm almost finished with another video update! The photo above is a nice sneak peek of the coming attraction.
post #172 of 1281
No ceiling boxes needed. Staple the romex to the soffit frame before it enters the fixture though.

I'm looking forward to that video!
post #173 of 1281
Use amoured cable since it will be resting on the drywall inside the ceiling.
post #174 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Use amoured cable since it will be resting on the drywall inside the ceiling.

Oooh, good idea!
post #175 of 1281
Thread Starter 
I bought some armored 12/2 today. Maybe next week or tomorrow I'll get to pop it into the ceiling for the rear lights.

Meanwhile, I have another video ready to share but I want to put it at the top of the next page!
post #176 of 1281
Thread Starter 
OH and I've been getting really itchy about ordering a projector! I know it's way too soon but it seems like it's so close to being ready!
post #177 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Getting the lights installed and working has yielded the most exciting sense of accomplishment about this project so far. My wife and I both were like "Now THIS is starting to feel like a theatre!!" once we saw those lights on and running.
post #178 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

No ceiling boxes needed. Staple the romex to the soffit frame before it enters the fixture though.

I'm looking forward to that video!

You shall be satisfied soon enough!

Thanks for that suggestion. I'm going to use a hybrid of the two suggestions and attach armored cable to the soffit frame before it enters the fixture and the ceiling. I don't want that cable rattling around in there.
post #179 of 1281
Thread Starter 



post #180 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Blammo! New video!

Lighting the Theater


Here I am again. This time I'm installing 21 (!!!) recessed lights in the soffits I built in the last video.

The room had nine 6" can lights wired in three zones when I started. I added soffits around the perimeter and installed 21 more 4" lights. I did this because the room is going to be *dark* once its painted.

The new lights are wired in four different zones (legs).
1. The front 4 lights (behind the screen - with the groovy colored LED bulbs, maaaaan),
2. the side 12,
3. the rear five, and
4. the nine overhead.

I'm zoning them this way so that I can kill front lights (almost always), kill back lights (keep from shining on screen), and dim sides for ambient light during movies.

All of these will be LED so that there is a minimum of heat added to the room (not to mention power consumption!).

I'm planning on getting a 4-zone Lutron Grafik Eye QS to control all this mess but they're kinda pricey so it's going to be dimmer switches for a little while.

Thanks for watching!
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