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The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 8

post #211 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Hey, check my logic on this and let me know what you think.

These soffits that I've built don't have a lot of interior space. There's about 5x12" interior clear in the sections that don't have can lights. As I understand it that's not enough room for a really effective bass trap but I think it would be prudent to put *something* up in there.

Here's my plan:
1. stuff the soffits full of R30 pink stuff (I have some leftover from the stage)
2. paint the soffits black
3. wrap the whole soffit with FR701 black cloth
4. cover exposed staples with quarter round (or something similar)

I would build in some access holes and simply cut the fabric around the lights. The trim rings for the lights will hold that in place at that point.

Does this seem like a plan wrought with problems or is this a good idea? I'm not crazy about doing drywall on the bottom because I just don't want to cut all those stupid holes!
post #212 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Ugh... fishing wire today. I HATE fishing wire through insulated walls. I discovered that I made a crucial error in my soffit installation. I forgot to leave any room between the furring strip that meets the wall and the header behind the drywall. This means that I have to cut away part of the furring strip so that I can access the flippin' wall to fish wire. Fortunately I have big drill bits and a burning desire to create havoc in my life.

The good news is that I soldered up a Meridian slave comms lead using those stupid connectors I showed a couple posts back and it worked just like I had hoped! Yeah! I've got the Meridian Tr-Field rockin' in here and I like it very much!

The Meridians require a comms cable that I'm daisy-chaining from speaker to speaker. that makes the wiring a whole lot of extra fun.

I also installed the last two remaining LED fixtures in the old ceiling fixtures. What a difference those things make. It will be a while before I get the trims for the soffit lights but one step at a time, right?
post #213 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

There's about 5x12" interior clear in the sections that don't have can lights. As I understand it that's not enough room for a really effective bass trap but I think it would be prudent to put *something* up in there.

Here's my plan:
1. stuff the soffits full of R30 pink stuff (I have some leftover from the stage)
2. paint the soffits black
3. wrap the whole soffit with FR701 black cloth
4. cover exposed staples with quarter round (or something similar)

My first reaction is the trouble with this plan is that is will only treat ambient sound in the room - that is to say, it will treat neither deep bass nor potentially troublesome early reflections.

Then I regroup and think that even though it's not optimized for deep bass, it will absorb some (bass ringing), and since you're not treating all the walls you are not in much danger of making your room too "dead." So I say go for it.

That's just one guys guess though, obviously.

The other side of the coin is that if you decide to seal it up with drywall, you risk it resonating. So it needs some fluffy stuff anyway.
post #214 of 1281
Can you post a video of the Shopbot in action when you get a chance? A CNC is tied for first place on my 'when I have the money' list.
post #215 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

My first reaction is the trouble with this plan is that is will only treat ambient sound in the room - that is to say, it will treat neither deep bass nor potentially troublesome early reflections.

Then I regroup and think that even though it's not optimized for deep bass, it will absorb some (bass ringing), and since you're not treating all the walls you are not in much danger of making your room too "dead." So I say go for it.

That's just one guys guess though, obviously.

The other side of the coin is that if you decide to seal it up with drywall, you risk it resonating. So it needs some fluffy stuff anyway.

I'm going to treat every wall in the room with Linacoustic up 40 inches off the floor or so. The exception to that is that the screen wall will be treated floor to ceiling with 2" Linacoustic.

I'm not sure what the R30 in the soffits will do except absorb some high frequency ringing (like you said). I would hope that it would help reduce the RT60 but I'm not sure. I'd still love some insight into that from some of the audio experts. Please chime in!
post #216 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scl23enn4m3 View Post

Can you post a video of the Shopbot in action when you get a chance? A CNC is tied for first place on my 'when I have the money' list.

CNC machining (CAM) has changed my perspective on woodworking. I LOVE woodworking but I also don't have as much time to work on it as I'd like. CNC machines can do amazing things.

I'll post a video when I start cutting my panels. I have a few videos I've shot of the ShopBot cutting various other things but I don't have them handy at the moment.

They're amazing machines but I'm not sure I'd buy one. I hate seeing machines idle like when I walk past my kickass wood lathe in the garage every morning. I have access to several machines through TechShop RDU. We have a LASER cutter, 3D printers, ShopBot, woodshop, CNC plasma cutter, aluminum casting facility, etc.
post #217 of 1281
were you able to find linacoustic locally?
post #218 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post








this looks sooo freakin awesome!
post #219 of 1281
Hey jdanforth, Great build and I'm loving the videos! you've got me hooked.

How tall are your ceilings in that room? What about under the soffits?
post #220 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinstripes View Post

this looks sooo freakin awesome!

Thanks!

Yes, I did find Linacoustic locally. I haven't called a bunch of places but you can get it at NB Handy in Raleigh.

Raleigh NB Handy
Raleigh Branch
5120 Trademark Drive
Raleigh, NC 27610-3024
919-212-2090

I spoke with Chaz. I'll PM you the pricing since I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post it.

I didn't ask if they have OC703 or how much it was.

Are you getting yours soon? It looks like your progress indicates that that's likely. If you have any left over I'll probably be interested in buying it from you. I'm a few weeks from needing some myself.
post #221 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vandak View Post

Hey jdanforth, Great build and I'm loving the videos! you've got me hooked.

How tall are your ceilings in that room? What about under the soffits?

Thanks, Vandak! I'm glad that you're enjoying the videos.

My ceilings are 8 feet, 1 inch from the floor. The soffits are shallow. The height under the soffits is about 7'-6" or so.
post #222 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Just thinking out loud... I think that this order makes the most sense for finishing up the project.

1. fish electrical into new 4-gang switch box; install 4 dimmers
2. install conduit in soffits for future use
3. scrape popcorn off of ceiling & putty
4. paint ceiling black
5. paint can light trim rings black
6. paint walls around deck door vestibule black (and part of the screen wall)
7. paint stage black (portion behind screen wall)
8. paint soffits black
9. install OC703 in soffits
10. install Linacoustic 2" on screen wall
11. staple/wrap soffits with black FR701
12. laminate 8 sheets of 4'x8' 3/4" MDF to 1/4" plywood
13. cut sheet #1 to 4'x6'
13. CNC sheet #1, install
14. cut 1" square aluminum tubing to height of installed panel, polish, clear coat
15. install aluminum tubing as border
*repeat steps 12-15 as necessary
  • left wall = 1"Al tube***6' MDF**1" Al tube**6' MDF**1"Al tube**6' MDF**1"Al tube**
  • right wall = 1"Al tube***6' MDF**1" Al tube**6' MDF**1"Al tube**6' MDF**1"Al tube**
  • rear wall = 1"Al tube***8' MDF**1" Al tube**8' MDF**1"Al tube

16. install Fabricmate 1" front-loading track below MDF panels
17. install Linacoustic 1" on walls below Fabricmate track
18. install Fabricmate 1" front-loading track below Linacoustic
19. install GOM fabric over Linacoustic
20. build minimalist screen wall
21. replace exterior door with opaque door
22. build screen
23. install rack rails & equipment (left of stage facing the electrical panel)
24. build screen panels
25. have carpet installed on stage (maybe whole room if I can afford it)
26. install projector power outlet
27. run video and control wiring for projector
28. (buy and) hang projector
29. acquire furniture
30. fill door at top of stairs with sand (the Jelloslug maneuver)
31. watch a FREAKIN' MOVIE / drink white Russians
post #223 of 1281
First, like a broken record....but nice job on the videos and all of your work so far!

Second, regarding your finishing list, I would put 26 and 27 before 3 and add another task before #3 which would be running the side, surround speaker (and cat-5 trigger) wires, plus the sub wires. And if I were to make one more suggestion, I would also use this opportunity to run dedicated power for the subwoofer location(s).

Third - a really like your MDF panel. Regarding the design - would you be better served (acoustically speaking) by making each of the walls wavy and then hanging 2' x 4' (?- size) or similar where needed over top of these curvy walls? Or you could router out the sections of wall and inset the panel...just a thought I had.

And finally - why on Earth did the previous owner install so many receptacles around that room???? LOL! I have never seen so many outlets in a single room! I hope they followed code and put the total number on a minimum of two dedicated circuits.

Keep up the great work and you are more than welcome to stop by my house here in the Charlotte area as I go through my theater build!!!
post #224 of 1281
I actually had one more link for you:

Since it is so easy for you to route MDF panels for a CNC machine, this is probably a more expensive and less desirable option but.....this is something that I was looking at for my own theater room in the "ripple" style:

http://www.sjcproducts.com/Architect...anels%20I.html
post #225 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

First, like a broken record....but nice job on the videos and all of your work so far!

Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Second, regarding your finishing list, I would put 26 and 27 before 3 and add another task before #3 which would be running the side, surround speaker (and cat-5 trigger) wires, plus the sub wires. And if I were to make one more suggestion, I would also use this opportunity to run dedicated power for the subwoofer location(s).

Moving the projector power and wiring up certainly seems like a good idea. I guess I put it back there because I wasn't 100% sure what projector I'm going to go with so it's hard to calculate the throw distance, etc. I suppose that if nothing else I can run the wiring and just spool it up above the ceiling. Then when I'm ready to hang the projector I'll cut in the boxes. Good food for thought.

I have already run the wiring for the rear channels. I'm thinking about running wire for a sub in the rear but I'm not sure (thus the conduit).

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Third I really like your MDF panel. Regarding the design - would you be better served (acoustically speaking) by making each of the walls wavy and then hanging 2' x 4' (?- size) or similar where needed over top of these curvy walls? Or you could router out the sections of wall and inset the panel...just a thought I had.

I'm not following you 100%. Do you mean to suggest hanging 2x4' acoustic panels over the wavy walls where appropriate (IE first reflections)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

And finally - why on Earth did the previous owner install so many receptacles around that room???? LOL! I have never seen so many outlets in a single room! I hope they followed code and put the total number on a minimum of two dedicated circuits.

Those aren't all power receptacles but there certainly are a ton of them. The wall on the left hand side of the room has two CATV outlets (dead since I had to bypass them to get cable modem working elsewhere) and two phone outlets (phone? LOL), and a few outlets.

I'm pretty sure that all of the outlets are on a single breaker. I'm actually planning to cover them ALL up with my acoustic panels! I'm probably going to run a dedicated breaker for the equipment rack and projector to isolate it from the rest of the house but the powered rear speakers are another story... I'm not sure what to do about that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Keep up the great work and you are more than welcome to stop by my house here in the Charlotte area as I go through my theater build!!!

Thanks! I'd love to do that!
post #226 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I actually had one more link for you:

Since it is so easy for you to route MDF panels for a CNC machine, this is probably a more expensive and less desirable option but.....this is something that I was looking at for my own theater room in the "ripple" style:

http://www.sjcproducts.com/Architect...anels%20I.html

Those are gorgeous! I might have to copy that design! What do they charge?
post #227 of 1281
Judging by the stage you are at and the progress you are making in the room, I would definitely nail down the screen you plan to use (size, gain, position, etc.) and either pick a projector or narrow it down to 2 or 3 top choices in fairly short order. I think you will find that the throw distances of even a few different comparable projectors will be relatively close, allowing you to comfortably add the needed signal wire, outlet and wood blocking for the mount without worry. I just hate to mud drywall twice (once when you patch after scraping the ceiling and once again getting wires into the walls / ceiling). The choice is obviously yours, but my 0.02.

You are right, I wasn't clear about the wavy panels but you read it correctly. My suggestion was to simply make floor to ceiling wavy panels (i.e. two 4x8 MDF sheets laying on their side to cover your 8' height) and simply routing out where the outlet boxes you would like to keep are located. So no baseboard and just a clean run from your carpet floor to the underside of the soffit. Just leave a 3/8" gap at the floor to allow for the carpet to tuck underneath for a clean finish. After the wavy MDF panels cover your walls completely, then the acoustic panels could either be hung on top of the wavy panel where needed at the appropriate spots (such as first reflections) or actually recessed into the wavy MDF panels at these same needed locations. The latter option will allow more of your soffit light to reach all the way down the face of the 3D wall to give that nice shadowing. Again, just brainstorming suggestions. You seem to have the computer skills to mock it up digitally to see how you would like this approach.

As far as the SJC products are concerned, this was a company that I found which I will be considering for areas of my theater, HOWEVER I have not called on pricing. My first impression is that it is unaffordable, given the way they are marketing their product, not to mention shipping this stuff if it is not locally available. My hopes are not high, but it is really cool looking stuff and definitely can add the "wow" factor with a well-designed room as you can see from their pictures.

If you ever need a hand, I must admit with a bit of humility that I am very handy and have done many, many full house renovations. So if you happen to hit one of those points where you need an extra hand and can only offer pretzels and beer as payment, send me a PM and I'd be happy to make the road trip and help out!
post #228 of 1281
Hey Dan -
been away awhile and caught up...I like the wavy wall idea w/ the MDF. Your pattern/fabric combo will make for an interesting space. I too got a motivation kick when I visited a local forum theater. It makes it a physical experience and you instantly begin to visualize your own space. So you are now rounding 1st base
post #229 of 1281
I've seen you around the forum, but have not visited your thread. Just read/looked through your build. Like the others love the vids, very easy way for us to visualize what you do and how you do it. Very cool for sure. The curved MDF is an extremely unique and awesome look to it. Really stands out for sure. Looking at your to do/order list 28 and 31 are in the appropriate locations except the latter part of 31 could be done anytime during the build, but the quality could suffer slightly if you are not careful.

Keep up the excellent work/progress and the vids to. Oh and I would not do the "sand dance" in public.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #230 of 1281
I saw this article in this magazine and the acoustic treatments reminded me of your theater. I think you are shooting for smoother curves and features, but I thought this might give you some more ideas.
post #231 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Judging by the stage you are at and the progress you are making in the room, I would definitely nail down the screen you plan to use (size, gain, position, etc.) and either pick a projector or narrow it down to 2 or 3 top choices in fairly short order. I think you will find that the throw distances of even a few different comparable projectors will be relatively close, allowing you to comfortably add the needed signal wire, outlet and wood blocking for the mount without worry. I just hate to mud drywall twice (once when you patch after scraping the ceiling and once again getting wires into the walls / ceiling). The choice is obviously yours, but my 0.02.

You are right, I wasn't clear about the wavy panels but you read it correctly. My suggestion was to simply make floor to ceiling wavy panels (i.e. two 4x8 MDF sheets laying on their side to cover your 8' height) and simply routing out where the outlet boxes you would like to keep are located. So no baseboard and just a clean run from your carpet floor to the underside of the soffit. Just leave a 3/8" gap at the floor to allow for the carpet to tuck underneath for a clean finish. After the wavy MDF panels cover your walls completely, then the acoustic panels could either be hung on top of the wavy panel where needed at the appropriate spots (such as first reflections) or actually recessed into the wavy MDF panels at these same needed locations. The latter option will allow more of your soffit light to reach all the way down the face of the 3D wall to give that nice shadowing. Again, just brainstorming suggestions. You seem to have the computer skills to mock it up digitally to see how you would like this approach.

As far as the SJC products are concerned, this was a company that I found which I will be considering for areas of my theater, HOWEVER I have not called on pricing. My first impression is that it is unaffordable, given the way they are marketing their product, not to mention shipping this stuff if it is not locally available. My hopes are not high, but it is really cool looking stuff and definitely can add the "wow" factor with a well-designed room as you can see from their pictures.

If you ever need a hand, I must admit with a bit of humility that I am very handy and have done many, many full house renovations. So if you happen to hit one of those points where you need an extra hand and can only offer pretzels and beer as payment, send me a PM and I'd be happy to make the road trip and help out!

Thanks, TMcG! I appreciate your ideas very much. The way you described the projector thing is actually about the point where I am now. I have more or less decided on a 120" wide 2.35 screen and a Panasonic PT-AE7000u already. If I actually sat down to figure it out then I could come up with that mounting location pretty quick.

I need to think about the wavy panel some more. I have been reading a LOT about acoustic treatments lately and also comparing my book learnin' with first-hand knowledge. Tony123's theatre has Linacoustic from ear-height down with painted drywall above it and I thought it sounded fantastic. I'm trying to be objective about it but I'll admit that I was just blown away by the whole room so I might have been overwhelmed.

If the SJC stuff is anything like the other commercial products I've seen out there then I'd bet that it's in the $30-40 per square foot neighborhood. :yikes:

I would LOVE a hand! Guest room, hot tub, beer, pretzels, and Advil at the standby. Those panels are going to be a pain to hang!
post #232 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by misugrad View Post

Hey Dan -
been away awhile and caught up...I like the wavy wall idea w/ the MDF. Your pattern/fabric combo will make for an interesting space. I too got a motivation kick when I visited a local forum theater. It makes it a physical experience and you instantly begin to visualize your own space. So you are now rounding 1st base

Thanks! I'm not 100% decided on the fabric yet but we'll see what happens.

The theatre visits are really important. I used to be in these things a ton when we were installing them but memory fades fast.
post #233 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

I've seen you around the forum, but have not visited your thread. Just read/looked through your build. Like the others love the vids, very easy way for us to visualize what you do and how you do it. Very cool for sure. The curved MDF is an extremely unique and awesome look to it. Really stands out for sure. Looking at your to do/order list 28 and 31 are in the appropriate locations except the latter part of 31 could be done anytime during the build, but the quality could suffer slightly if you are not careful.

Keep up the excellent work/progress and the vids to. Oh and I would not do the "sand dance" in public.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks for your compliments, RTROSE. The videos are hard work but I'm going to keep doing them.

As much as I want a projector right now I'm worried that I'll get distracted! The white Russians are an essential theatre-building tool!

Awww, you didn't like the sand dance?

Jon
post #234 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I saw this article in this magazine and the acoustic treatments reminded me of your theater. I think you are shooting for smoother curves and features, but I thought this might give you some more ideas.

Ah yes... the article in the magazine that featured quite possibly the ugliest theater ever built! I have read and re-read that article at least six times, thank you for thinking about me.

The MDF panels I'm planning to install aren't actually intended to gain me any acoustic benefit. I haven't done any tests or anything but I can't imagine that they'll do much of anything except some very high-frequency scattering in a range that I'm unlikely to hear anyway.

The audio is mostly hooked up so that I can listen to music and hear how the room's sound changes as I add treatments. I'm amazed at the changes that have been made already by the addition of what I presume to be diffraction by the soffit framing. Not that I've tested or anything but I'd say that the ringing in the room has already decreased significantly. I'm really excited about how well it's coming along.
post #235 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Thanks for your compliments, RTROSE. The videos are hard work but I'm going to keep doing them.

As much as I want a projector right now I'm worried that I'll get distracted! The white Russians are an essential theatre-building tool!

Awww, you didn't like the sand dance?

Jon


I just received my Epson 8350 two days ago, and I can tell you that if had not waited till now to get it my build would have come to a screeching halt. I watched Avatar for the longest time without sound/screen or anything and found myself mesmerized just by the image. If your smart you'll hold off, trust me you will be glad you did.

Well I guess if you must know I really did like the sand dance, I just felt weird saying so in a public forum. Just don't tell anyone "k".

Regards,

RTROSE
post #236 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Yeah! I just finished scraping all the ugly blown popcorn crap off of the ceiling! The room doesn't feel as newly spacious as I thought it would but it is certainly progress. If I have time then I'm going to work on sanding the ceiling tomorrow.

In the meantime I've been thinking about wiring the projector based on the advice from TMcG. I think that I'm going to run three HDMI cables, RS-232, and probably a composite connection for the Wii. I'm certainly going to be installing conduit and string.

My Meridian surround processor doesn't have HDMI inputs. I'm resigned to the fact that I won't be able to get the lossless formats unless I upgrade but that's a very costly proposition. So what I'm going to do is run the three HDMI cables up to the projector so that I can support 75% of my hardware with that. I guess I'll be getting an HDMI switcher at some point if I'm going to get an XBOX 360, PS3, etc.

Does anyone have a suggestion for long HDMI cables? I have heard good things about Monoprice for years but I've never ordered from them.
post #237 of 1281
I would run the following cable bundle to your projector:
  • One HDMI 1.4 cable
  • 3 Cat-6 (preferred) or 3 Cat-5E cables
  • One RS-232 cable
  • One 14/2 Romex

The HDMI cable can obviously handle 3D, 4K and integrated data when those features become more available. One or two (depending on manufacturer) of the Cat-6 cables could be used for an HDMI balun (one for power, one for signal or all in one depending on manufacturer) if you switch over to a balun-based system at some point. And one for data for now, since many more projectors can be controlled via IP, receive firmware updates, etc. One pair of the Cat-5 could also be used for extending an IR emitter if your initial control system does not support RS-232 or IP control. The RS-232 would more or less be a backup cable for control and probably not used, but there just in case. If you are even considering a masking system in the future, I would run one more Cat-5 from the projector to the screen location as many projectors have integrated triggers that can be called on command.

So with the proposal above you would still need something to switch your video signal. Instead of spending money on two additional high-quality HDMI cables, an HDMI switcher and a long composite cable, I would instead urge you to source a used processor / scaler for about $300, such as the DVDO Edge. It has plenty of HDMI inputs (6), a couple of component, s-video, composite, etc. So not only will it upconvert everything to a single HDMI output, it can also improve the video quality for those non-HDMI sources (and tinker with HDMI sources if you so-choose). And one word of advice - also buy the Wii component video cable for what it is worth and get away from the standard composite output cable.

This auction should top out at around $300 to $325: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVDO-Edge-HD...#ht_500wt_1413

As for long HDMI cables, both Blue Jeans cable and Markertek have their own reputable in-house brands at an off price. I have also used Key Digital "Python" cables for extended runs with great success.

By the way - if / when you call me to help, I think it would be hilarious if I brought a full-on gorilla costume during your time-lapse installation snapshots. How funny would that be to see in your video? I don't have the suit, but I can picture in my mind quite vividly if a big gorilla came out and started working in the theater!! LOL!
post #238 of 1281
I have a ordered many cables/wires etc from monoprice. I can highly recommend them for price and performance. I have a 20 foot and a 35 foot cable I tested and installed (have not used yet) from monoprice and they worked perfectly prior to my install.

Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable (I have used both actually) are very reputable and come highly recommended by RTROSE (and others).

If you run conduit to the PJ location you need not worry about anything as you can always run more or less and replace cables as needed.

Oh, and for full disclosure I have purchased Monster cables too (although at very heavily discounted prices) just to let you know.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #239 of 1281
Thread Starter 
That's solid advice, TMcG. I don't know why I didn't think about outboard scaler/processors before. My mind must be too clouded with drywall dust and paint!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

By the way - if / when you call me to help, I think it would be hilarious if I brought a full-on gorilla costume during your time-lapse installation snapshots. How funny would that be to see in your video? I don't have the suit, but I can picture in my mind quite vividly if a big gorilla came out and started working in the theater!! LOL!

I support this idea. That's much better than my plan to wear Mickey Mouse ears while painting my ceiling Mouse Ears black.
post #240 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

I have a ordered many cables/wires etc from monoprice. I can highly recommend them for price and performance. I have a 20 foot and a 35 foot cable I tested and installed (have not used yet) from monoprice and they worked perfectly prior to my install.

Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable (I have used both actually) are very reputable and come highly recommended by RTROSE (and others).

If you run conduit to the PJ location you need not worry about anything as you can always run more or less and replace cables as needed.

Oh, and for full disclosure I have purchased Monster cables too (although at very heavily discounted prices) just to let you know.

Regards,

RTROSE

Excellent news. I think I'll find a suitably long one from Monoprice but I'll go check out Blue Jeans Cable also. Thanks!
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