The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 9

Originally Posted by RTROSE

I have a ordered many cables/wires etc from monoprice. I can highly recommend them for price and performance. I have a 20 foot and a 35 foot cable I tested and installed (have not used yet) from monoprice and they worked perfectly prior to my install.

Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable (I have used both actually) are very reputable and come highly recommended by RTROSE (and others).

If you run conduit to the PJ location you need not worry about anything as you can always run more or less and replace cables as needed.

Oh, and for full disclosure I have purchased Monster cables too (although at very heavily discounted prices) just to let you know.

Regards,

RTROSE

Originally Posted by RTROSE

I know with most projectors that zoom can and usually does have an effect on brightness levels. With you being in the middle you should be all set and should not adversely effect your brightness.

I know that I had personally thought I would go with around a 106-112" image in my room. Now that the pj is here and I have done some tests the urge to go bigger is working on me, but you have to balance that out with zoom (I'm in the middle of my zoom range too) with decreased brightness over time and lighting conditions as well) I am glad I have waited to finalize my screen size until the pj came so I could do some testing. I'm still not sure yet and I'm still tinkering. I do have one advantage as I am going DIY painted screen so I could change pretty easily.

Originally Posted by TMcG

I would say if you have everything open and conduit is easy to run, then go for it. But we are definitely at the final frontier of cable connections, with most of the "future" cables essentially a way to transmit HD protected content over a standard networking wire, called HDBaseT: http://www.pcworld.com/article/20030...et_cables.html Having three Cat-6 wires (or Cat-5e) would most certainly provide the needed duplication should one of the wires fail. At some point signal, data, control and PoE (if needed) will all probably under one standard networking wire. I can't wait for the day when all equipment "plays nice" with one another and is easily and reliably controlled....

So barring any physical failure of your HDMI 1.4 cable, however improbable, you will actually be using LESS of the wiring bundle I had recommended sending to the projector, essentially mothballing all of the other wires.

One other point I failed to raise before - keep the 14/2 as far away from the signal wire as possible - one foot away at a minimum if would be ideal - and if you do have to place the wires close, make sure to make the intersection of power and signal wires as perpendicular as possible.

Originally Posted by RTROSE


Sound good to me. You will often get the "bigger is better" chant round these here parts, but sometimes, you might, just might, be better served by a slightly smaller screen size. I did not have the ability (or I did not think about it) to borrow a PJ so I had to wait for my baby to arrive before I could get a really good idea on what I wanted to do.

Originally Posted by RTROSE

Oh, and BTW is it not time for another video? I'm thinking it is!

Originally Posted by TMcG

@RTROSE - Here's a video from youtube on installing a home theater system that should tide you over in the meantime, well worth the 6:22 watch... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPA435yIuzQ

@jdanforth - Don't forget to wire for the "surrounding surround speakers" and the "various overkill to ensure deafness speakers" (see video link above)

Originally Posted by tony123

Have you seen this photo? Looks familiar?

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13238804122893

Originally Posted by tony123

I like the concept, however, the backsides of all my cans spilled light. If yours are completely sealed, you might be okay. Otherwise, your soffits may glow!

Originally Posted by TMcG

I see a few problems. But first, a point of clarification from your comment - when you say OC703, I think 1" thick Owens Corning 703 semi-rigid fiberglass and not fire retardant fabric as in your post. So assuming you meant that you will be using 703 and/or R30 batts in your soffit and then fabric-wrap the entire assembly then here are a few things for your consideration. First, as the fabric is ultimately still porous, you will now be involving yourself in painting your soffit matte black which can be tedious and time consuming. Second, there is a potential for slight light bleed-through out of the cans, causing a back lit glow. Third, the way you have constructed your soffit provides no consistent outside corner along the bottom so you will never be able to get the fabric into a straight line without this corner structure. I suppose you could use drywall corner bead painted black and fastened to the outside corner of this soffit, but again that will be more work. Fourth, have you confirmed that your cans are IC (insulation contact) rated? If not, then you have to maintain a 3" minimum perimeter gap on all sides.

If you have a router, you could use a "V" shaped router bit to created a 45 degree angle on one side of the OC703. With this technique you can create a single interior 90 bend or two 45 degree miter cuts that will fit both soffit faces. You could then back wrap the vertical soffit piece, allow for the fabric to hang and then wrap the bottom piece (on the wall side of the piece) before final installation.

One final thought - wrapping the fabric to the interior of your can light hole cut out is unnecessary. I would simply use a spray adhesive for a minimum 3 or four inches beyond then cutout and the cut out the fabric with a sharp razor after the adhesive dries. The trim housing will hide the rest and there is really no risk of wrinkles or sagging over time with the adhesive. Don't forget to use the high-temp black paint if you aren't able to get the full black light housings!