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The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 12

post #331 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Paging Nickshitachi. Nickshitachi please pick up the white courtesy phone and delete your old PMs! The system won't let me send you any more because you're a filthy hoarder!
post #332 of 1281
Looking good, I really like the color samples you have out and the wall sample is awesome. I know what you mean by things feeling closer to being done. I have that very same feeling myself.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #333 of 1281
Looks really great, Jon.

That wavy thing you've got going on is really going to look nice with the color scheme you've chosen.

Good luck with the wiring. There's a reason I'm an ME. Electrons? Protons? WTF-tron?

Cory
post #334 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Paging Nickshitachi. Nickshitachi please pick up the white courtesy phone and delete your old PMs! The system won't let me send you any more because you're a filthy hoarder!

But they were all special to me!

I cleaned it out anticipating your glorious PM..... lol
post #335 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Looking good, I really like the color samples you have out and the wall sample is awesome. I know what you mean by things feeling closer to being done. I have that very same feeling myself.

Thanks! I'm amazed at the difference that paint makes on the wave wall. I'm getting closer to done, for sure, but it seems like there are so MANY things left to do. It's a bit overwhelming.

Quote:
Originally Posted by manthatsnice View Post

Looks really great, Jon.

That wavy thing you've got going on is really going to look nice with the color scheme you've chosen.

Good luck with the wiring. There's a reason I'm an ME. Electrons? Protons? WTF-tron?

Thanks! I managed to get my overhead lights working again thanks to the amazing help at the DIYchatroom.com forums!

I just bit the bullet and ordered $200 worth of Midnight-colored Lutron dimmers, wall plates, switches, blank inserts, and 15a outlets. I'm going to be covering up most of the outlets in the room but I need to leave a couple exposed for the rear speakers, vacuum cleaning, etc. It's going to look SWEET with those slick satin-black wallplates in there.

I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to handle incorporating the wave wall with the switches. I'm also not sure how to extend the outlets through the fabric wall. I have been picturing removing the existing outlet, building an MDF box around the existing box, installing a backless box into the MDF thing, and then installing the new outlet into the backless box. What do you guys think about that?
post #336 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to handle incorporating the wave wall with the switches. I'm also not sure how to extend the outlets through the fabric wall. I have been picturing removing the existing outlet, building an MDF box around the existing box, installing a backless box into the MDF thing, and then installing the new outlet into the backless box. What do you guys think about that?

Your proposal above is definitely not code compliant and all electrical connections must be in a contained box. Open air connections are never allowed and could be a significant fire hazard.

For the old work receptacles, I would carefully use my sawzall to cut the mounting nails of the existing box and use a product called "sliderbox" or something similar, commonly available at Allied Electrical supply. Here is a youtube video showing the box in action. The thing I like about this box is that it can be continually manipulated to the exact position you like and then locked in, even for multi-gang boxes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEWV0...ature=youtu.be

For new work, both Home Depot and Lowe's carry Carlon boxes which adjust after the face with an internal screw adjustment. Here is a link: http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stor...AID=1071028625 The only downfall is that I have only ever seen these boxes in singles and doubles. I am not sure if you can special-order larger gang sizes.

If you would like to perform your depth adjustment "manually", then simply use a piece of 2x4 on an open wall to span between studs on it's SIDE (i.e. like a mini-joist), exposing the full 3.5" height to the front of the stud bay. You can secure a multi-gang box directly to the 2x4 and then secure this 2x4 to the studs. So you can manually move the box forward and backward just by placement of the wood within the depth of the stud bay.

As for getting a flush fit for the faceplates on your wavy wall, I would create an MDF jig and use my router to cut the depth of the faceplate from the waves, equal to their deepest point so there are no gaps behind the faceplate and so it lies perfectly flat. You may be astute enough to even accomplish this with the CNC machine while milling the MDF if you can rely on your measurements. Alternatively you could pre-fit a raw MDF panel in position to get the required cut-outs and use your jigsaw and router to create the electrical box opening and to the proper depth in the material. I don't know if this would interfere with the subsequent cutting by the CNC blades or not, though.

One other point if you use the sliderbox for your existing old work boxes - you will have to RAISE the outlet an inch or two to allow the box to move forward an inch or two IF you don't have enough slack on your existing electrical wiring. Let's just say I learned that the hard way on one occasion. These boxes will really simplify your installation by allowing for you to simply cut out an outlet-sized hole in your acoustic or wavy panels and adjusting the depth of the box to flush.

Keep up the great work! Love the paint combo, fyi.
post #337 of 1281
Thread Starter 
TMcG, that is excellent feedback, thank you!

I think I'll stop the wave wall before the switches so it won't be a problem. I'm pretty sure that will be fine.

Instead of the slider boxes, what if I just built a little frame around the 1-gang outlet boxes and left the existing plates installed? I could just wrap fabric around the frame, I guess.
post #338 of 1281
What is the depth of your acoustic panel that you will be using? Is it 1"? I can't remember and am actually a bit too lazy right now to go back through the thread....

Anywho, yes you can create an MDF or OSB "frame" for around every outlet (I have done this before and usually have a 1.5"-2" frame around the object I am encircling, fyi). You can then get a product like this: http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Elec...ref=pd_cp_hi_3 from Home Depot or Lowes which comes in a plastic blister 2-pack and long screws to thread through your receptacle, the white plastic extension ring and into the original electrical box. This method will work, it just seemed like a lot more fuss having to construct two layers of 1/2" to get your 1" build-up and then the expense of the extension rings with screws. They are fairly cheap, but the cost does add up if you have a lot of them.

Cheers!
post #339 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Aha! That's pretty much what I was picturing in the first place. I'm only doing two outlets this way so it shouldn't be too annoying.

I'm planning on putting 1" linacoustic on the lower 1/2 of the wall and wavy MDF on the upper half.

Thanks!!
post #340 of 1281
Thread Starter 
GAH! I've got subwoofer fever!!!!
post #341 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

GAH! I've got subwoofer fever!!!!

There is a temporary cure for that, but it always comes back.
post #342 of 1281
Thread Starter 
I ordered a Dayton DVC385-88 15" driver! Now to see about getting/building a cabinet.
post #343 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I ordered a Dayton DVC385-88 15" driver! Now to see about getting/building a cabinet.

The Dayton DVC is a nice subwoofer - especially for the price. I have a 12" DVC in my living room for music and it does a nice job. Have you considered using 2 of them in a single box in a dual opposed configuration? I may do something like that in my theater when I get to that point.
post #344 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post


The Dayton DVC is a nice subwoofer - especially for the price. I have a 12" DVC in my living room for music and it does a nice job. Have you considered using 2 of them in a single box in a dual opposed configuration? I may do something like that in my theater when I get to that point.

I'm thinking about building a lilmike F-20 horn. I'd like to get two but not this month...
post #345 of 1281
Jdanforth,

Just thought I would drop a line as I am a lurker of your thread and I must say your room is looking good, I love the wavy wall.

Any way I just wanted to give you a +1 on the F20, I just built one using the same DVC driver and a Dayton 240 AMP before the holidays and it has transformed my movie and music experience! I only have the Gain turned up about 1/3 and it can shake the whole house during loud explosions and such. I don't know what sub your coming from but I can not believe the clean crisp sound I am getting now along with the tactile feel of the really low frequencies I am not an expert however I know I like what I hear!

Check out my Theatre build thread in my signature for pictures of the sub in my room and my build log here in the DIY forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1369273
post #346 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I ordered a Dayton DVC385-88 15" driver! Now to see about getting/building a cabinet.

Woot!

Feb 4th is coming Fast!

Several good options for that driver!

Double your efforts, Triple your efforts!
post #347 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit73 View Post

Jdanforth,

Just thought I would drop a line as I am a lurker of your thread and I must say your room is looking good, I love the wavy wall.

Any way I just wanted to give you a +1 on the F20, I just built one using the same DVC driver and a Dayton 240 AMP before the holidays and it has transformed my movie and music experience! I only have the Gain turned up about 1/3 and it can shake the whole house during loud explosions and such. I don't know what sub your coming from but I can not believe the clean crisp sound I am getting now along with the tactile feel of the really low frequencies I am not an expert however I know I like what I hear!

Check out my Theatre build thread in my signature for pictures of the sub in my room and my build log here in the DIY forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1369273

Nice looking room you've got there!

I have owned precisely one subwoofer in my life, a Gallo Acoustics 8" sealed thing which was really more of an auxiliary woofer to their little ball speakers. I haven't had that sub hooked up in years. The F20 will be an eye opener.
post #348 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Woot!

Feb 4th is coming Fast!

Several good options for that driver!

Double your efforts, Triple your efforts!

Brandon's been hard to get in touch so I might just wind up building them here in town rather than driving to Asheville. If I go that route then I'm going to write a CNC program to cut them!

edit: or maybe I'll build a little sealed enclosure to tide me over for a while. Who knows.
post #349 of 1281
I dont know anything about CAD language but erich on here already sells flat packs foe them maybe hell give you a good deal on the program?

If not the flat packs are pretty cheap......

Edit: no they dont, my bad.
post #350 of 1281
Thread Starter 
I just agreed to buy 40 cubic feet of subwoofer!
post #351 of 1281
I think that post was supposed to start with, "Hello, I'm Jon, and I'm a subaholic."

Congrats on the new addition. To the family
post #352 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I just agreed to buy 40 cubic feet of subwoofer!

Whats that the F20s?
post #353 of 1281
just got onto your thread. Read through most of it - in scan mode. Looks good so far. That wall is going to be really something with the material you've chosen. Did you mention something about using Meridian equipment?
post #354 of 1281
Congrats on the sub decision. I'm sure you'll enjoy it!
post #355 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I think that post was supposed to start with, "Hello, I'm Jon, and I'm a subaholic."

Congrats on the new addition. To the family.

LOL, thanks!

Hello, I'm Jon, and I'm a subaholic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Whats that the F20s?

Yep! I talked with Beastaudio (Brandon) last night and had a great conversation about subs, theatres, etc. (you know... standard nerdy HT enthusiast stuff). I'm going to get both cabinets from him soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by javry View Post

just got onto your thread. Read through most of it - in scan mode. Looks good so far. That wall is going to be really something with the material you've chosen. Did you mention something about using Meridian equipment?

Thanks, javry! The system is based on four Meridian DSP 5000s fronts/rears and a DSP 5000c center. The surround processor is a 568.2. Maybe one day I'll be able to buy my way into a G series processor but that's going to be quite a while away!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Congrats on the sub decision. I'm sure you'll enjoy it!

Thanks, Tony! The lilmike F20 doesn't have as much excitement below 20Hz as your subs but somehow I think I'll manage!
post #356 of 1281
Thread Starter 
DAMN! I'm selling all my speakers and subs now!

The iNuke BOOM iPod dock from Behringer.
  • Stereo 3-way system with total output of 10,000 Watts
  • Twin 18″ subwoofers for gut-wrenching, pulse-pounding bass
  • Dual 12″ neodymium woofers for articulate bass and midrange
  • Two 1.75″ titanium-diaphragm HF drivers can break glass
  • iNUKE mode power boost
  • Volume control goes to all the way to 11
  • High-quality components and exceptionally rugged construction ensure long life
  • Conceived and designed by BEHRINGER Germany

post #357 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Volume control goes to all the way to 11

I thought only Nigel Tufnel's amps went all the way to 11...

post #358 of 1281
Chuck Norris' iPod dock uses cold fusion for power with "Bad Ass" as the only volume level...
post #359 of 1281
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Chuck Norris' iPod dock uses cold fusion for power with "Bad Ass" as the only volume level...

Quoted for truth.
post #360 of 1281
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

.............Thanks, javry! The system is based on four Meridian DSP 5000s fronts/rears and a DSP 5000c center. The surround processor is a 568.2. Maybe one day I'll be able to buy my way into a G series processor but that's going to be quite a while away.

DaveN [on the forum] lives in Williamston; a few miles east of you [ok - a lot of miles east of you]. He went from Theta to Meridian in a big way a couple of years ago. I'll see if I can get the two of you hooked up; assuming you don't know each other already.
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