Originally Posted by jdanforth
I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to handle incorporating the wave wall with the switches. I'm also not sure how to extend the outlets through the fabric wall. I have been picturing removing the existing outlet, building an MDF box around the existing box, installing a backless box into the MDF thing, and then installing the new outlet into the backless box. What do you guys think about that?
Your proposal above is definitely not code compliant and all electrical connections must be in a contained box. Open air connections are never allowed and could be a significant fire hazard.
For the old work receptacles, I would carefully use my sawzall to cut the mounting nails of the existing box and use a product called "sliderbox" or something similar, commonly available at Allied Electrical supply. Here is a youtube video showing the box in action. The thing I like about this box is that it can be continually manipulated to the exact position you like and then locked in, even for multi-gang boxes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEWV0...ature=youtu.be
For new work, both Home Depot and Lowe's carry Carlon boxes which adjust after the face with an internal screw adjustment. Here is a link: http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stor...AID=1071028625
The only downfall is that I have only ever seen these boxes in singles and doubles. I am not sure if you can special-order larger gang sizes.
If you would like to perform your depth adjustment "manually", then simply use a piece of 2x4 on an open wall to span between studs on it's SIDE (i.e. like a mini-joist), exposing the full 3.5" height to the front of the stud bay. You can secure a multi-gang box directly to the 2x4 and then secure this 2x4 to the studs. So you can manually move the box forward and backward just by placement of the wood within the depth of the stud bay.
As for getting a flush fit for the faceplates on your wavy wall, I would create an MDF jig and use my router to cut the depth of the faceplate from the waves, equal to their deepest point so there are no gaps behind the faceplate and so it lies perfectly flat. You may be astute enough to even accomplish this with the CNC machine while milling the MDF if you can rely on your measurements. Alternatively you could pre-fit a raw MDF panel in position to get the required cut-outs and use your jigsaw and router to create the electrical box opening and to the proper depth in the material. I don't know if this would interfere with the subsequent cutting by the CNC blades or not, though.
One other point if you use the sliderbox for your existing old work boxes - you will have to RAISE the outlet an inch or two to allow the box to move forward an inch or two IF you don't have enough slack on your existing electrical wiring. Let's just say I learned that the hard way on one occasion. These boxes will really simplify your installation by allowing for you to simply cut out an outlet-sized hole in your acoustic or wavy panels and adjusting the depth of the box to flush.
Keep up the great work! Love the paint combo, fyi.