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The Timelapse Theatre - Planning n' Build Log - Page 18

post #511 of 1255
2/19/12 at 9:17pm
The room is looking great. One question...What's up with the two coffins on the stage?
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post #512 of 1255
2/20/12 at 4:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I have finished running the wire for the speakers! YES!

Today I also managed to calculate, measure, and mark the mounting position of the projector. I'm concerned about this mostly because I'm ready to rough in the electrical and low voltage boxes so that I can start running that cable.

Now I need to read up on mounting!

Thanks for the input on the MTM, etc. with the center channel. I really like the idea of having an identical center so I think I'm going to stick with this arrangement that I showed you earlier today or last night. I learned a thing or two about center channels too! Woohoo!

The subwoofer drivers should be here on Tuesday (FINALLY!) after six weeks of back-order. Those subs are HEAVY. I'm not looking forward to moving them many more times!

What throw distance did you end up with?

FYI at 14' throw 120" diag 2.37 is the maximum i could get....
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post #513 of 1255
2/20/12 at 4:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

I was stressed over the mounting of my PJ. Don't know why exactly, but I figured I would get it up and it would be all jacked up or something. I took so long building my theater that the PJ's went through about five generations of evolution. Luckily Epson sticks pretty close with their throw, zoom, and lens shift formulas.

Just take your time measure twice er ah ok four times and you should be good to go. I'm guessing you have a good idea what projector you are going to use right? I spent a lot of time lurking in the owners forum and then checking and rechecking the numbers with the calculator pro feature at projector central. Very informative. Do you know what mount you are going to go with? I went with a Chief mount and I was/am very happy with the quality and features. Very well made.

Good news on the woofers, I expect to see a couple of time lapse videos here at some point showing off your progress and skills.

Regards,

RTROSE

I'll do my best to get a vid out this week! I want to get one up as much as you want to see one. Thanks for the compliments.

I have pretty much decided on a Panasonic pt-ae7000u despite its having 3D. The price is barely approachable, bright, good contrast, and my company is a Panasonic dealer so I should be able to get a small discount off MAP.

I too will probably use a Chief mount (again, we're dealers). I need to read up on this a lot more. I'm not sure how to install the thing blind through drywall. I don't know if I should cut out the ceiling, install plywood blocking, then reinstall drywall or what.
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post #514 of 1255
2/20/12 at 4:39am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

The room is looking great. One question...What's up with the two coffins on the stage?

Those are for when my neighbors hear the 20Hz at 120dB!
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post #515 of 1255
2/20/12 at 4:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post


What throw distance did you end up with?

FYI at 14' throw 120" diag 2.37 is the maximum i could get....

15 feet from lens to screen. That put it right in the sweet spot of the zoom for 120" wide scope and 51" tall 16:9. Something like 17 and 19 FL respectively.

You're using a 4000, right? Are they lenses differently?
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post #516 of 1255
2/20/12 at 5:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

I'll do my best to get a vid out this week! I want to get one up as much as you want to see one. Thanks for the compliments.

I have pretty much decided on a Panasonic pt-ae7000u despite its having 3D. The price is barely approachable, bright, good contrast, and my company is a Panasonic dealer so I should be able to get a small discount off MAP.

I too will probably use a Chief mount (again, we're dealers). I need to read up on this a lot more. I'm not sure how to install the thing blind through drywall. I don't know if I should cut out the ceiling, install plywood blocking, then reinstall drywall or what.

If you want to hang it in an exact position, then the best way is indeed to open up and secure blocking between the joists. However, if you don't want to tear into the ceiling and since the total weight load of the projector and mount being less than 50 pounds, then just secure it with either METAL toggle bolts through the drywall or the higher-end plastic zip toggle (called a Snaptoggle).

But have you checked your ceiling joist position in relation to the depth of the projector? Given that your joists are probably positioned from left to right, I am sure you can play within the range of the throw distance to secure at least two screws directly into the studding without opening the ceiling, save for the power and signal wire box. I would still use thin metal toggles for the two rearward mounting holes if the fronts are secured in studding. Don't forget to account for the physical lens offset of that Panny!
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post #517 of 1255
2/20/12 at 5:24am
Jon - I just noticed something on your latest picture - the return air duct on the right hand of the stage which appears to be partially blocked by the stage. Do you have plans to move this up so the grate can be opened and the filters changed? I can also imagine the partial blockage adding a bit of air turbulence noise.

By the way, are you now officially done with the upstairs family room and back on the theater project?
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post #518 of 1255
2/20/12 at 5:28am
Not to hijack your thread, but here is a link to those Snaptoggler bolts. Cool little installation animation video is also on this page:
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

Should be available at Lowe's, HD or most hardware stores. Really a superior product in design and holding power.
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post #519 of 1255
2/20/12 at 6:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post


15 feet from lens to screen. That put it right in the sweet spot of the zoom for 120" wide scope and 51" tall 16:9. Something like 17 and 19 FL respectively.

You're using a 4000, right? Are they lenses differently?

IDK how much different they are, close cousins for sure. I dont think youll be dissappointed with that setup.

Have you decided on an aspect?

Id love to demo for you if you want to see a 120 2.37 in action......

Also screen construction: Iive got a couple tricks up my sleeve which might be of value.....
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post #520 of 1255
2/20/12 at 7:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Those are for when my neighbors hear the 20Hz at 120dB!

Awesome!!!
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post #521 of 1255
2/20/12 at 8:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post


If you want to hang it in an exact position, then the best way is indeed to open up and secure blocking between the joists. Given the total weight load of the projector and mount being less than 50 pounds and needing to secure it with 4 screws I would still suggest using METAL toggle bolts through the drywall or the higher-end plastic zip toggle (called a Snaptoggle).

However, have you checked your ceiling joist position in relation to the depth of the projector? Given that your joists are probably positioned from left to right, I am sure you can play within the range of the throw distance to secure at least two screws directly into the studding without opening the ceiling, save for the power and signal wire box. I would still use thin metal toggles for the two rearward mounting holes if the fronts are secured in studding. Don't forget to account for the physical lens offset of that Panny!

If you look at mine (and ignore the curtain wall), we opened up the ceiling (~12"x16"), installed blocking between the joists then replaced the sheetrock and taped/muddled the joints. Overall it probably took less than an hour and gives us a really firm setting from which to mount everything (the joists run parallel to the curtain wall so we didn't have a choice).
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post #522 of 1255
2/21/12 at 4:52am
How bout some more photos?
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post #523 of 1255
2/21/12 at 5:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

How bout some more photos?

Actually we want the videos!
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post #524 of 1255
2/21/12 at 5:44am
Meh! I want both!
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post #525 of 1255
2/21/12 at 7:49pm
Thread Starter 
Subwoofer drivers came in today! I installed one and have been enjoying the hell out of it. I've got some grounding hum though. it's real low but ever-present. If it isn't fixed I'll drive myself crazier.

I disconnected everything from the processor except the sub and the hum remained. If I disconnect the RCA from the processor to the sub amp the hum disappears. The sub amp and processor are plugged into the same outlet. I also tried changing the interconnect. Can you tell this isn't my first ground loop problem? . I'm open to suggestions!

This may be related but I'm not sure. This is my first home brew sub. The driver has dual voice coils but I only connected one. Is that a problem? Should I connect both? That would mean 2 channels per sub but I only have a single sub output on the Meridian 568.2.

Thanks for all of your posts recently. I will respond to then tomorrow, hopefully. Work and Maker Faire work are keeping me REALLY busy! I'm still aiming to deliver a new video this week, however!
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post #526 of 1255
2/21/12 at 8:08pm
Couple things you haven't mentioned trying. Disconnect all the sources/cables and any other components from the receiver so that all you have remaining is the sub interconnect and the other speakers. If you still have the hum disconnect your other speakers. Assuming you can make the hum go away start plugging things in one at a time. If the hum doesn't go away you can try lifting the ground of first the sub amp then the receiver.
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post #527 of 1255
2/21/12 at 11:26pm
Great stuff Jon. I've just caught up reading your thread again. Nice front soundstage. Those beasts will surely keep you PINNED in your seat
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post #528 of 1255
2/22/12 at 2:11am
The first thing I would do is use a heavy duty power cord / power strip to plug the equipment into a number of different outlets to see if the problem still persists. If it does, then I would look to plug this stuff into a completely different circuit to see if the problem still persists.

I would also remove the receptacle itself and verify the grounding and its overall physical condition.

Big's suggestion to lift the ground component by component using a simple 50 cent ground lifter may help you to identify the affected equipment but would not be a permanent solution. Lifting the ground is dangerous and is a definite electrocution hazard.

I assume you will be using a power protection device for your system. Most of these filter the power by internally balancing the power back and forth several times to eliminate most external noise. If you have checked everything else out with your house electrical system and find no problems, then I would plug everything into a power protection / isolation device to see if this solves your issue. But if you have OCD tendencies like me, I would still try to isolate the route cause of the noise coming into your system. I would be very interested to know what you find out.
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post #529 of 1255
2/22/12 at 3:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth View Post

Subwoofer drivers came in today! I installed one and have been enjoying the hell out of it. I've got some grounding hum though. it's real low but ever-present. If it isn't fixed I'll drive myself crazier.

I disconnected everything from the processor except the sub and the hum remained. If I disconnect the RCA from the processor to the sub amp the hum disappears. The sub amp and processor are plugged into the same outlet. I also tried changing the interconnect. Can you tell this isn't my first ground loop problem? . I'm open to suggestions!

This may be related but I'm not sure. This is my first home brew sub. The driver has dual voice coils but I only connected one. Is that a problem? Should I connect both? That would mean 2 channels per sub but I only have a single sub output on the Meridian 568.2.

Thanks for all of your posts recently. I will respond to then tomorrow, hopefully. Work and Maker Faire work are keeping me REALLY busy! I'm still aiming to deliver a new video this week, however!

ground loops are fun double check your cables and make sure they connect tight at the connectors. I recently got some cables from monoprice which were loose and developed a hummmmm. i had to bend the interconnects to tighten them.

Both subs or just one?

Suspect anything with a three prong plug. ive had the most success plugging everything into same outlet. Funny thing i didnt notice a humm when we played with the MFW. Whats different now besides driver?

As far as the driver you definitly want both voice coils hooked up. They are 8ohms each so hookup parallel for a 4ohm load to amp. Running 8 ohms on one VC is less than half power.
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post #530 of 1255
2/22/12 at 4:07am
I ended up using a ground loop isolator in my system. Spent months tracking it and ended up going that route. It did cause me to raise my input signal by roughly 4db, but otherwise it didn't effect the FR. I'd rather have it out of the chain, none the less.
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post #531 of 1255
2/22/12 at 6:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I ended up using a ground loop isolator in my system. Spent months tracking it and ended up going that route. It did cause me to raise my input signal by roughly 4db, but otherwise it didn't effect the FR. I'd rather have it out of the chain, none the less.

Hey Tony did you put the isolator on the sub cable? Which isolator? Ive seen the ones for coax but not familiar with ones for rca.......
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post #532 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

If you want to hang it in an exact position, then the best way is indeed to open up and secure blocking between the joists. However, if you don't want to tear into the ceiling and since the total weight load of the projector and mount being less than 50 pounds, then just secure it with either METAL toggle bolts through the drywall or the higher-end plastic zip toggle (called a Snaptoggle).

But have you checked your ceiling joist position in relation to the depth of the projector? Given that your joists are probably positioned from left to right, I am sure you can play within the range of the throw distance to secure at least two screws directly into the studding without opening the ceiling, save for the power and signal wire box. I would still use thin metal toggles for the two rearward mounting holes if the fronts are secured in studding. Don't forget to account for the physical lens offset of that Panny!

Thanks! I'm sure that I can find at least two mounting points along the joist and I can use leftover SnapToggles for the others. I used SnapToggles to mount the soffits on the two sides that didn't run with the joists.

I'm wondering too about vibration from the floor above. I'm worried about people clomping around up in the kitchen shaking the projector. I guess there's not much to be done about that except see if the problem exists and then use a vibration reduction mount if necessary.
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post #533 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Jon - I just noticed something on your latest picture - the return air duct on the right hand of the stage which appears to be partially blocked by the stage. Do you have plans to move this up so the grate can be opened and the filters changed? I can also imagine the partial blockage adding a bit of air turbulence noise.

By the way, are you now officially done with the upstairs family room and back on the theater project?

Quite right. There is an intake there but it is actually really accessible. I've been changing the filter in it regularly. I'm planning to remove the metal cover entirely when I build the minimalist screen wall. It will still be accessible by removing a panel of the screen wall. Good eye!
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post #534 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:36am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

IDK how much different they are, close cousins for sure. I dont think youll be dissappointed with that setup.

Have you decided on an aspect?

Id love to demo for you if you want to see a 120 2.37 in action......

Also screen construction: Iive got a couple tricks up my sleeve which might be of value.....

I've decided to stick with 2.35:1. I'm almost positive that I'll go DIY build with Seymour fabric.

I've seen Tony123's 2.35 with the 4000 but I'd still love to come see yours too! Road trip!
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post #535 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

How bout some more photos?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Actually we want the videos!

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Meh! I want both!

I'm doing my best!
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post #536 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:42am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat444 View Post

If you look at mine (and ignore the curtain wall), we opened up the ceiling (~12"x16"), installed blocking between the joists then replaced the sheetrock and taped/muddled the joints. Overall it probably took less than an hour and gives us a really firm setting from which to mount everything (the joists run parallel to the curtain wall so we didn't have a choice).

That's not a bad idea, actually. Opening up the ceiling would be damned convenient for running some wiring anyway. I'm picturing that you would do it like you would with a drywall patch: cut out a rectangle to halfway along the stud, attach the blocking, and then screw the DW right into the blocking? Hmmm! Thanks!
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post #537 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Couple things you haven't mentioned trying. Disconnect all the sources/cables and any other components from the receiver so that all you have remaining is the sub interconnect and the other speakers. If you still have the hum disconnect your other speakers. Assuming you can make the hum go away start plugging things in one at a time. If the hum doesn't go away you can try lifting the ground of first the sub amp then the receiver.

Actually, I did try unplugging everything. I wasn't very clear in my post that I wrote last night on my phone.

The only thing connected to the 568.2 was the power and the sub-out cable and I still heard the hum. I also tried different sub-out cables at this point with no improvement.
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post #538 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:45am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbejaan View Post

Great stuff Jon. I've just caught up reading your thread again. Nice front soundstage. Those beasts will surely keep you PINNED in your seat

Thanks! It's starting to really sound like a good room now!
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post #539 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:48am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The first thing I would do is use a heavy duty power cord / power strip to plug the equipment into a number of different outlets to see if the problem still persists. If it does, then I would look to plug this stuff into a completely different circuit to see if the problem still persists.

Hmm, OK. I have tried multiple outlets but not multiple circuits. I'll give that a bang tomorrow night, probably.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I would also remove the receptacle itself and verify the grounding and its overall physical condition.

Does it count that it tests out fine with my circuit tester gizmo?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Big's suggestion to lift the ground component by component using a simple 50 cent ground lifter may help you to identify the affected equipment but would not be a permanent solution. Lifting the ground is dangerous and is a definite electrocution hazard.

Thanks for confirming that. I had thought that was the case and have been reluctant to use it as a permanent solution. I was planning to try it out to identify the offending device though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I assume you will be using a power protection device for your system. Most of these filter the power by internally balancing the power back and forth several times to eliminate most external noise. If you have checked everything else out with your house electrical system and find no problems, then I would plug everything into a power protection / isolation device to see if this solves your issue. But if you have OCD tendencies like me, I would still try to isolate the route cause of the noise coming into your system. I would be very interested to know what you find out.

OCD Tendencies on standby... my hand is already shaking a little bit!

I'm going to have all of the stuff plugged into some kind of sequencer but it's tricky (read:expensive) to protect everything since all of the speakers are individually powered.
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post #540 of 1255
2/22/12 at 11:57am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

ground loops are fun double check your cables and make sure they connect tight at the connectors. I recently got some cables from monoprice which were loose and developed a hummmmm. i had to bend the interconnects to tighten them.

Both subs or just one?

Suspect anything with a three prong plug. ive had the most success plugging everything into same outlet. Funny thing i didnt notice a humm when we played with the MFW. Whats different now besides driver?

As far as the driver you definitly want both voice coils hooked up. They are 8ohms each so hookup parallel for a 4ohm load to amp. Running 8 ohms on one VC is less than half power.

No change except driver and physical location of sub cabinet. The hum is quiet. I'm not surprised that we didn't hear it when you were here.

Regarding wiring, should I just daisy chain positive to positive and negative to negative on the driver?
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