Official Samsung 2011 PNxxD7000 Thread - Page 133

Could be firmware related, I have normal volume levels with Netflix when set at 10 with sound on the movie preset, FW version 1018

I have the D8000 FW 1024, Cal-Day. Picture mode changes have no effect.

I meant the sound menu presets, standard is quieter than the rest of the presets although not as low as what you guys are talking about.

Duh???? lol I feel stupid.

Tried the various sound modes but nothing changed. Normal content viewing is with volume set around 13 and Netflix requires closer to 40 for the same approximate sound level. It's no big deal, just strange.

I am having my panel replaced tomorrow morning. Technically the reason is a dead pixel, but my current panel is a buzzer and a peeler too. Hopefully this will take care of all the problems! Honestly I don't care about the peeling unless it encroaches into the pixels.

I got the panel for a STEAL as an open box at best buy, so if this fixes the buzzing I will be one happy camper. If not, I'll probably return. The buzzing is REALLY loud.

Well, they switched out the panel. My old panel was an August 2011 build, this new one is December 2011. The buzz is still there, loud as ever . I can very clearly hear it over movies. The tech acknowledged the problem but said there was nothing he could do. Not sure what I'm going to do...

By the way, the tech did not install the "washer kit", said he had not heard of it. Is this something I should do myself or what? Disassembly looked pretty easy.

Such a "fix" was rumored many months ago, but never confirmed or adopted. I doubt it could reduce this type of noise, but if you feel so inclined...

Well the washer fix was purported to fix the peeling issue, as it provided a thermal expansion barrier between the panel and the chassis.

The tech KNEW the buzzing came from the Y board, he even told me. I wish I knew more about electronics so I could find out exactly what's wrong and just replace that component. Clearly it's a faulty design.

Those saying they don't hear the buzzing or that they can't hear it unless they're really close to the TV; we are not talking about the same thing. You'd know if you had the directional buzz coming from the Y panel that everyone is complaining about.

Pretty sure I'm going to return it for good. What a shame.

My family and I were watching TV on our PN51D7000 on Saturday when we all heard a "pop" and then there was no picture.

Now the TV won't power on correctly. If I unplug it and plug it back in, the standby LED comes on and then goes off. If I try to power it on via the button or the remote, the standby LED flickers and then goes off. Still no picture.

I tried a different plug and I removed all input source cables.

I have to wait until Thurs for a technician.

The TV was built in Nov. 2011 and I bought it in Feb. 2012. It couldn't have had many hours on it (~100). We were enjoying the TV up until that point....Great picture!

I've searched this thread a bit and other sites as well. I didn't find this topic, so I'm guessing that it is not a common problem.

Thanks,

-tom

Interesting. The Y board must be one that came on the new panel. I watched the tech replace my panel and it looked like two or three boards went with the old panel to the new, which already had a few installed on it.

Keep complaining and eventually they will offer a replacement set, but it sounds like you are still in the return window with wherever you purchased it from so that might be easier.

My set is a year old, they offered to either send a replacement or a full refund for the purchase price. Still not sure which option I'm doing, leaning towards the refund and getting the 60inch Panasonic ST50. From what I'm reading buzzing is still an issue on the new E7000 series so I don't have much faith in Samsung at this point...

That's interesting, because some months back there were rumors of a washer kit designed to stop transfer of mechanical buzz. Anyway, seems highly unlikely to me that it could prevent peeling of the AR coating. That coating is physically bonded to the front glass and some of the pictures I've seen of the bubbles that form do not at all suggest a thermal expansion problem (at least not to me, and I have worked in failure analysis). Looks like a simple bonding issue, which they would have to fix in manufacturing (instead, many people claim they just switched to an entirely different filter, which is supposedly inferior to the original "real black" filter).

As for buzz, my tech told me the power supply was to blame for the noise (which is certainly possible as these are pretty substantial SMPSs), but I know he was generally full of it. First I've heard of the Y board, but I suppose that's possible. Personally, I don't think most of these techs have any clue what they're talking about and will just feed you BS until you're so confused you just give up on them.

I have seen a couple reports of this on AVS, at least one was a Panasonic I think. One actually cracked the panel. I think something (capacitor maybe) blows on the power board.

Im in the same boat. Buzzing with a new pn59d7000 and deciding to replace with either pn60e6500 or e7000. Trying to find out if anything is different in picture quality/build quality/nicer panels/ etc....any help would be appreciated.

The directional buzz does indeed come from the Y board. I've read this in several places and my tech said so as well. Yes, the Y board as well as a few other boards come with the panel, so if you have your panel swapped for any reason you'll get a new Y board. The power supply does make a buzz, but this is only the normal plasma buzz which is present on all sets. ie, the buzz that is not audible or annoying. The directional buzz is a separate problem.

The washer fix is only for the peeling issue, as the directional buzz is not caused by a mechanical vibration. The issue was that yes, the film is bonded to the screen surface, however when the panel thermally expands at a different rate than the frame (which it is directly bolted to), it causes some shear strain which forces the bonded film up. This makes the peel we've all seen. You can confirm this because the peel only happens around mounting points. The washer fix is actually a technical bulletin by Samsung and is supposed to be installed with all panel replacements regardless of cause. The rubber washer mechanically isolates the panel from the frame, allowing that strain to be absorbed by the washer.

I've gleaned this information from a variety of sources and threads as I researched possible fixes for the buzz. I'm a mechanical engineer, and the peeling explanation makes sense to me, but of course I don't have access to Samsung's information on the peeling or the buzzing, so take it for what you will.

BTW, I returned my d7000 set as I was still in the return window. It's a shame I can't seem to find any Samsung any more that is worth owning. the LCDs have horrible clouding (saw this myself with an earlier UN60d6000 which I returned) and the plasmas are bad for obvious reasons. I guess I will stick with my 4-5 year old A650 46" since it still works great, and is from the era before "thin is in" seemingly caused so many problems.

I'm afraid with nothing to back it up, it still doesn't mean much. Mat sci & eng here.

Have a look for yourself - frame could be a factor, but is not the primary cause:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post20961978

Interesting, but I didn't see any data or speculation on what that poster thought the cause was. Not that I have a dog in this fight, but out of curiosity, what do you think the cause of failure is for the peel? Unless it's just a bad batch of adhesive, mechanical separation due to differences in CTE seems the most likely to me.

My posts shouldn't be taken as any kind of proof, just speculation and consolidation of what I've read all around the forums

Sure, I understand. The root of the problem seems to be whatever coupling agent was used to bond the AR film. In areas where the film is in contact with the frame, I agree that thermal expansion can initiate peeling. But formation of bubbles away from the frame points towards a more fundamental problem, IMO. Anyway, I think we can all agree that the QC at Samsung leaves quite a lot to be desired.

Ah, ok. Well the guy in the post you linked to had those bubbles because he had a peel, then tried to push the bubble down himself, resulting in the bubbles. I don't believe they spontaneously appeared.

But yes we can agree the QC and engineering is lacking at Samsung these days.

becact,

The peeling of the AR coating did spontaneously appear. It was due to a fabrication shortcoming and the panel was removed from manufacture within months of model release. The panels that had the peeling problem were replaced with a new and different panel without question by Samsung. This is a dead issue. It no longer exists.

To my knowledge, other than this one that was quickly remedied by Samsung, there have not been any QC problems with the D series. So I do not agree.


Larry

Yes, I know the peeling spontaneously appeared. What did not is the bubbles shown in the link a few posts above. Those occurred, I THINK, because the gentleman in that post pushed the peel back down himself. My point being, that bubbles do not spontaneously appear, only peeling from the edge

You're free to disagree on Samsung's QC, but the two panels I had that buzzed so loudly that I could very clearly hear it from 10 feet away over normal volumes would beg to differ, as would the many other pnd7000 owners with that same issue.

Like I said I returned mine so don't have a dog in the fight any more, I was just trying to post my findings regarding the peeling and the buzzing. If you're happy with your pnd7000 I'm happy for you!

For someone that doesn't "have a dog in the fight any more," you sure are barking loudly'

Larry

Then you must have missed some of the reports I've read.


For sure, not just QC (warped bezels, peeling, etc.), but overall engineering is an important point. The buzzing alone, while it might not technically be a QC issue, is completely out of hand and unacceptable to those of us that hear it. The fact that I KNOW there are sets out there that do not buzz, just further frustrates me.

Well, it was the panel and not the power supply. They had to come back the next day since they hadn't brought a replacement panel. Funny thing is that all of the electronics come with a new panel except the main controller and the speakers.

I now have a January of 2012 panel instead of my previous September of. 2011 one. Newer logic board firmware as well (11-11-01).

Starting over on the break in....

Our TV does the same. We always have to turn up the volume when we use the Netflix App to about 35/40. Pandora app is the opposite..we have to turn it down as that cranks out the jams!

Can somebody tell me what the color gradation is for the D7000? I'm curious how it compares to the Panasonic ST50 which has 12k and the GT50 which has 24k.

Ok, I tried searching this thread for the answer, but on my iPhone, the search options are a bit limited. When activating the cal - night and day modes, what is the appropriate setting for the "source" option "all" or "current"? Thanks

I had the panel replaced of my PS59D7005 (EU model).
The old panel had couple of green flickering pixels and minor peeling of the filter.
I had done the logic board update for the old panel, even though i never had those brightness fluctuations.
With the new panel I've seen it couple of times, last with latest episode of Game of Thrones, with a scene that was happening inside in a candlelight. The scene wasn't even very dark, more like brownish dimly lit scene. In scenes that were more dark I did not see this fluctuation.
Otherwise, the new panel seems to be a bit better, especially line bleed is now very minimal, just barely noticeable whereas the old one had it more pronounced, though not very disturbing either.
The old panel had reduced buzzing after the logic board update, the new panel seems to buzz like the old one before the update. Again, it's not that disturbing so I don't boter.

The service guy said the new panel is straight out of factory (it had the protective film on, but the logic board version shows some 2011 june date) and has not been "driven in", so I'll wait some 200h of use before I decide whether I do the logic board update for this one too.

So how does your new panel compare to the old one? I'm in the process of getting mine replaced (still had brightness fluctuations after firmware update).

Just wondering if the new panel replaces the firmware with and older version. I currently have the 1015 firmware with the updated logic board.

Will I have to re-do these again?

My new panel kept the main firmware but replaced the logic board fw.
As the new panels seem to come with a new logic board but not with the main board, you'll need to do the logic board update again if the new panel does not already have it.