Official Samsung 2011 PNxxD7000 Thread - Page 17

Well, I wasn't naming that product because I'm interested in it. It was just the first media streaming box that came to mind. There are a few good media boxes (good codec support) that I'm looking into currently. And I will use that in combination with the apps that are on my Blu-ray player, instead of streaming any media directly from the TV (now that I learned about this AVC thing).

I'm not even going to bother getting HD cable for this thing, as it really seems to be a waste of money. I can watch any show I want through Netflix or Hulu, which, even together, would run me less a month than many of the HD packages I see. Plus, I got this thing mainly for the blu-rays and gaming

Hello,

Just got my 51" D7000 this week. I'd be curious to see some settings from other owners.

After a quick session with the DVE Blu-Ray (focused only on brightness / contrast), here is what I came up with:

Gamma: 0
HDMI Black Level: Low
Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 17
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 58
Color Tone: Warm1 (I just prefer this look to Warm2)
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off

The results are pretty good but I'll probably continue to tweak things.

Does anyone know the correct setting for HDMI Black Level? The choices are "Low" which is the default and "Normal". I think Low allows for blacker-than-black signals, but not sure. It looks a bit better to me.

Also curious about Black Tone. I couldn't see much difference with any of the settings on the pluge pattern.

One more question. Where on the gamma scale is the "0" setting? (2.2, 2.4, other...)

Overall, the picture looks better with less black crush and better shadow detail than I saw with the default settings.

I replaced a 3-year old Panny plasma (TH-50PF10UK). Overall, I'd say the picture is marginally better on the D7000 (so far). Style and design is much nicer.

For those curious about buzz, mine has it - but I have to be less than 12" from the set to hear it. No big deal (to me).

Thanks,
Mark

I suggest putting the Black Tone on "Darkest". It makes the blacks look a lot better (at least to my eyes). I've been using the settings posted by that one user on page 11, and everything look great.

EDIT: Or "Darker" - After watching some blu-rays tonight, "Darkest" was actually a little too dark. And as an update, the blu-rays on this thing look absolutely amazing, and I haven't noticed any picture problems like the bright fluctuations.

Update: After another hour of blu-ray experience, I have noticed flight fluctuations in the brightness whilst looking at the black screen bars. They are very subtle, and the fluctuation occurs depending on the presence of white in a scene. Seemingly if there are many bright colors on screen, the brightness will slightly increase (which is sort of the opposite of what I was seeing earlier). It's really not that noticeable at all, though it's frustrating I still don't know exactly what's causing it.

I also agree with knmlee that Warm 1 looks better than Warm 2. Also, I can't hear any buzzing at all.

Do you know which one gives you 1:1 pixel mapping, VGA or HDMI?

I do not know. But are you sure that the connection type matters? I think that 1:1 pixel mapping is a display setting that is independent of connection type. Perhaps I'm wrong though.

I was under the impression that VGA and HDMI can both display full 1080p under any aspect ratio (of course dependent on other things), and that the only difference was that VGA only carries picture whereas HDMI carries both audio and picture.

Sometimes it does make a difference, one connection or the other can have overscan. When I was testing and exchanging TVs one of them, Toshiba or Samsung, only did 1:1 w/HDMI but not VGA(which was labeled as PC!). Seems backwards I know but that's the way it was. This was a few years ago too.

I'm not all that concerned just as long as at least one or the other supports it. I do a lot of streaming through my PC

HDMI1 input on the back panel gives1-1 mapping, and you must have HDMI1 labeled 'DVI PC' on your source list under 'inputs' using the sammy remote. After you label, you will see all seven 3D modes on HDMI1 input, and a marked improvement in PQ due to 1-1 mapping. The HDMI 2,3,4 inputs do not give 1-1. PC input is also 1-1.

That's interesting. Why is that?

Thank you, so in theory I should have no problem with this tv and my nvidia gtx 480.

Did you get the 3D starter kit with it? I have been talking with east coast. I want the kit with my purchase.

I turned on my Samsung PN59D7000 today and the TV started making a really loud static noise and I saw the snow screen. After about ten seconds the TV was able to find the preset HDMI source and connect to the Tivo, which was on the whole time and was sending normal video. This is the second time that this has happened from when I recently received this TV. Is anyone else having this issue or does anyone have any suggestions?

Based on my past experiences, I have to say that Samsung TVs are almost as pathetic as the company's customer service.

Ok, my first impressions of the 51" d7000 coming from the 50" c8000....

First and foremost I think the black levels are improved. Actually, I don't think, I can easily tell. Before, watching dark scenes in a dark room were very bothersome because of the grayish blacks, and now they are quite acceptable to the point of very pleasing. I'm not sure if they were to the level of the G25 I had, but I can tell you the picture quality is incredible. The difference between the screen and the bezel in letterbox material is much much less. Colors and contrast are incredible. Using movie mode with slight adjustments in cell light, contrast and brightness.

I have have noticed the contrast/brightness fluctuations much like in my c8000 but interestingly not in the bluray material I have seen so far. More testing will be required since its only been a few hours. With this picture quality though, I can let it slide when it does happen.

Although I mostly use surround, the built in speakers seem somewhat better in the 2011 model. Less boomy and hollow.

This is the first time I have tried 3d on a home tv set. I tried both the 2d to 3d conversion and also Tron Legacy in 3d. It is quite impressive technology. I believe I have the base model 3100 glasses that come with the shrek bundle and thought they are very comfortable. However, what I find annoying about them is the inner reflections, made worse by the fact that I am also wearing eyeglasses. If they were able to coat them with an inner anti-reflective coating they would be a lot more enjoyable. And this was in a totally dark room other than the display. They were somewhat fatiguing to my eyes as well, so I'm not sure how often I will actually use these. But I didn't really buy this set for the 3d, it was just kind of a fun bonus.

Overall, I don't think I'll regret paying a couple hundred more for the 7 2011 series from the 8 2010 series. What I was most unhappy with was the black level and to me I can already see a nice improvement. The built in wifi will be nice, although I realize I'm going to need ethernet to stream all my movies from the NAS. Lack of ARC is kind of annoying, but I'm sure I will make due since I have never even utilized it in the past.

Oh, and the bezel of the 2011 looks SO much better than the cheap plastic look of the 2010. Its all glossy shiny and metallicy looking. I would have paid 50 bucks alone for that. And don't forget, the extra inch!

Buzzing on the 2010 model wasn't too bad, but still annoying at times in certain scenes with low volume. So far this year seems to be improved in the buzzing department. Not that I haven't heard it, but it is more quiet.

I also mounted this to the wall today and looks awesome. Side point, if you buy a Cheetah mount from Amazon, you can count on some hardware problems. The M8 screws they give you are way too long, I think 25mm or so. You need 10mm or less to go into the tv, and Samsung does not give you any. I had to buy a couple of nuts to stand off the bolts from going too far into the set. But its all set, finally.

Haven't made any firmware updates to it yet, haven't needed any since I have not even tried the apps department. I'd like to make sure the firmware issues have been resolved completely before I attempt that.

Overall, completely happy so far with this set. This is the 5th different type I've had in a couple months. First with the Panny C2, then Sony Bravia bla bla LCD, then Panny G25, then Samsung C8000, and now this. Maybe now I can finally rest....

So the brightness fluctuations were present in last year's models, too, huh? Did you ever find out what the cause was? I still don't get it - is this an intended feature or not?
I share the same sentiments, and I'm glad you're happy too!

O.K. I'm sold. Gonna order this from Crutchfield next week. I'm going to use the base stand for now and maybe a wall mount for later on. How many screws holds the base on and is it a pain to install? Just wondering how long the delivery guys will have to hang out. Also what wall mount would you guys recommend? Great forum and thanks for all your posts!!!

The panel will have to lie face down and elevated a foot or two off the floor in order to attach the base. The shipping box, internally braced with the styrofoam packing material and covered with a towel or blanket, makes a usable platform for this step.

The base has a simple design. It took me a few tries to get the attachment to the TV back flush (flat). Be sure to check it visually from a couple of low angle views.

I was blown away when I saw my demo material on that set! I also very much like viewing high resolution photos on that big screen. Such gorgeous color and resolution.

Enjoy!

I never observes any fluctuations on my 58c8000 with eco settings Off. Can you point to any posts?

Finally got my 59D7000 earlier this week. I love the look of this TV, with the brushed metal surround, and the clear edges. The wife loves how it matches everything in the room.
SD and HD content and contrast looks very good but a bit dark ( see below )
I have not tried Blu Ray or 3D content yet.

First off, I travel for work setting up video and equipment demos at electronic shows around the country. So far, we only use Samsung plasmas for these demos, which is what lead to my decision to buy the new D7000 series for home. What I've noticed with the D7000 is that the picture seems overall darker than the other plasma TVs at work using exactly the same screen settings. I'm sure that my home environment is not brighter than the Electronic show floors in the conference halls, so i'm not sure if my tv could just be defective? Is it possible that the TV has a 'limiter' on it to not allow it to be to bright until the screen is fully broken in? I've never used break in slides with the other plasmas, but maybe a break in will help with this problem?

Second, I have noticed the screen dimming which has been reported in this thread. I've tried the reset trick a couple times, but this still seems to happen a few times an hour depending on the content. It very noticeable on scenes with pure white backgrounds where the white will suddenly become blue/grey washed out color, and the darks in the scene get a greyish tinge to them. I've only seen this on Direct TV content. Maybe a STB box issue?

I'm still at firmware 1003 because of the reported issues in this thread with the upgrade, but i'm wondering if an upgrade will address these problems?


I'm very open to both of these problems being from my content feed which is currently Direct TV. I already have an appointment with the local cable company to set me up, so if this helps I will happily post back with the update.

I have the exact same set pn58c8000, never had a single brighness fluctuation in over 600 hours of viewing. Use to have the mll bug every so often, but firmware updates appear to have fixed that. My black levels are also great.

Does anyone know why the mlb tv app is not very clear?

I don't know, and I'm still trying to figure it out myself. Can you explain how it would be a STB issue?

I and others have noted the issue in several posts in this thread. If you're looking for pics of the issue, it's difficult to get any as my camera is not too great.

I'm interested to know if the new firmware fixes the issue (when it doesn't brick the TV, that is). I've yet to try the new firmware though in fear of the repercussions.

So here was my thought process. The newer the TV, the cleaner the signal and pathway has to be to produce the best possible picture. This pathway includes the cables and the video processing capabilities in the STB.
My STB from Direct TV is currently a 'few' years old, so i was thinking that maybe the signal being sent from it may be causing some if not all the issues. Maybe the STB is not sending the video correctly because of a glitch or an incompatibility or just because its OLD?

This could also account for the reports that this only occurs on broadcast tv, not DVD/Blu Ray etc.

This of course is just one rambling tech-head thought that struck me as I was watching my TV picture brightness flucuate a bit.

In 3D mode I am seeing an issue, that I saw once before using DirecTV, but it went away (I think after rebooting the DirecTV box, but I am not sure). Now I am seeing it on my PS3 when trying to play Wipeout HD, but not when playing Megamind on the same PS3.

The issue: the right eye seems to work fine, but the left eye looks like it is missing some colors and so there is no 3D effect, it just looks like a picture coming in dark in my left eye and lighter and normal in my right eye. And this holds true with every set of glasses so it isn't a glasses issue.

Anyone else see this? Is it a handshaking issue? Is it the tv? Why would it happen with the game, but not the BluRay on the same device, with the same HDMI connection? That makes me think it's the PS3. On the other hand I saw exactly the same issue with DirecTV before, which makes me think it is a TV issue. I'd assume it is the Bluetooth sync being off, except going back and forth to the BluRay, the sync works fine.

Update: interesting... The same issue is now on my DirecTV 3D channels again.

Update: Figured it out, but not sure this is good news. It was the unlocked Cal-Day and Cal-Night settings that are causing this issue. Putting it back in Movie mode is what fixed it. Is this a known issue?

Unlocked Cal-Day and Cal-Night Settings? What are they and how did they get 'unlocked'?

Another thread pointed to pretty simple instructions. You need to go into the service menu and unlock Cal-Day and Cal-Night settings and set them to all inputs. This gives you two more picture settings to calibrate, in addition to Movie, Dynamic, relax, and the others, that will work across all inputs. Cal stands for calibration, day and night is so you can calibrate for daytime viewing and have another one set up for night time viewing. Because you should be extremely cautious when entering the service menu, I didn't poke around, look at anything else, or do anything other then the simple 3 or 4 step instructions to unlock these modes, so far all I know there is another setting in there that allows for 3D. As it stands now, though, those settings can't be used for 3D in certain circumstances (though it still seemed to in other circumstances.... Maybe 1080p, but not 720P?). in any case it's not too big of a deal unless you don't know that's what is causing it. I spent hours on a beautiful Saturday, switching out HDMI cables, checking and rechecking settings on my PS3, DirecTV, and BR player, powering everything off and on, and worst of all dealing with Samsung customer service who after what seemed like 30 minutes could only suggest I change the battery in my 3 pairs of glasses.

I have nothing but a blu-ray player connected to my TV currently, and I see the brightness fluctuations on online content in addition to blu-ray content.


Oh, it's been resolved? Let me do some testing...

The left eye looked darker, lacked certain colors, and without the glasses looking at the screen the image appeared normal, without the blurring that normally happens when watching a 3d image without the glasses.

I just pulled out my camera and went to recreate the problem, and can't. Toggling on the Cal-night and Cal-Day setting works fine coming from Movie. I am totally stumped. All I know for sure is that switching it back to Movie mode stopped the problem, but simply putting it back in Cal-Day doesn't recreate it. Maybe it has to do with HDMI handshaking when in Cal-Day/Night, maybe switching picture modes gave the internal processing the equivalent of a smack to the side of the tv, but whatever it was it happened before on different sources, then went away, then came back and went away only after switching from Cal-Day to Movie.

I'll leave it in Cal-Day mode and if it comes back I'll take a picture from each eye to show what the issue looks like.