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Official Panasonic GT30 Series Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 134

post #3991 of 4129
4/18/12 at 7:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmeech10 View Post

Anyone seen this on their TV - When there is a black/very dark background which splits an all white/verybright image, the white image seems almost transparent. I took a picture of it, look at the guy's shirt, you can clearly see the black background going through his shirt. I noticed this on some other scenes also.

I haven't noticed. But, I would try toning down the brightness and color. That guy looks extremely orange. Is it set to Warm2? If so scale that back a bit...
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post #3992 of 4129
4/18/12 at 10:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by james4523 View Post


I haven't noticed. But, I would try toning down the brightness and color. That guy looks extremely orange. Is it set to Warm2? If so scale that back a bit...

It's the iPhone adding the color. I'm using calibrated settings posted earlier in this thread so everything looks natural. Brightness is at 50, contrast at 70 warm1 on Custom mode. Strange, otherwise a great TV.
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post #3993 of 4129
4/20/12 at 7:50pm
I need some feedback. I am 10 to 10.5 feet away from the tv I am going to buy. I am between the Panasonic gt30 65 inch and the Panasonic st50 60 inch and they are both the same size. Give me the plus and minus and which one you recommend.
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post #3994 of 4129
4/20/12 at 9:17pm
If you can still find a 65GT30, I would get it. The prices are great and so is the tv. I had a 60 and returned it for the 65. I sit between 9-12 feet away and it rocks. If you sit much farther, you may have some problems with the IR 3D glasses. They max out around 14'. I use the generic SainSonic glasses and they are fine. I have six pairs. I am not sure the ST50 has any great advantage over a GT30, except for the BlueTooth glasses. Always by the biggest tv you can get, as long as it fits.
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post #3995 of 4129
4/21/12 at 3:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sboychuck View Post

I use a Monoprice HDMI Switch that is 3D capable. I run all my devices to it. I believe I have either 22 or 24 AWG cables to the switch. I then run one cable to my Soundbar. I then run one HDMI from the Soundbar to the HDMI/ARC on the tv. That preserves the good sound coming out of the devices to my Soundbar. The switch is acting like an A/V receiver, in as much as all the devices feed into it and then one cable out. The switch also has a remote control. Maybe try it???

You mean this one? It seems to fit the description. Any worry about signal loss? http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage. Wow, You mean to tell me that's the only way to preserve the DTS Signal? Bummer. Yeah, I thought of that. Thanks.



OK I really didn't want to do it that way. I also have a Panasonic Blue Ray. Does anyone know if the Viera Link will work through the HDMI Switch?
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post #3996 of 4129
4/21/12 at 6:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmeech10 View Post

Anyone seen this on their TV - When there is a black/very dark background which splits an all white/verybright image, the white image seems almost transparent. I took a picture of it, look at the guy's shirt, you can clearly see the black background going through his shirt. I noticed this on some other scenes also.

That's known as line bleed. Pretty common
on these sets.
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post #3997 of 4129
4/21/12 at 8:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmeech10 View Post


It's the iPhone adding the color. I'm using calibrated settings posted earlier in this thread so everything looks natural. Brightness is at 50, contrast at 70 warm1 on Custom mode. Strange, otherwise a great TV.

It isn't correct if you are using warm 1. That's not someone's calibrated settings. They just call them that. Any calibration will use warm 2.
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post #3998 of 4129
4/21/12 at 9:52am
The switch that I used is http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 and it supports ARC and 3D. The PID is 7974 and the model is MD-415ARC. I also used the 24AWG cables. Yes, Vierra does seem to work for all the Panny devices. I also have an ARC capable Panny Soundbar and Panny BD Player.
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post #3999 of 4129
4/21/12 at 2:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober205 View Post

It isn't correct if you are using warm 1. That's not someone's calibrated settings. They just call them that. Any calibration will use warm 2.

I've always wondered why so many like "Warm 2" and why most calibrate for it? IMO it doesn't look bad but it does seem to add alot of red to the color. I've been swithing from "Warm 2" to "Normal" and have a hard time deciding which I like best.
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post #4000 of 4129
4/22/12 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlb32 View Post


I've always wondered why so many like "Warm 2" and why most calibrate for it? IMO it doesn't look bad but it does seem to add alot of red to the color. I've been swithing from "Warm 2" to "Normal" and have a hard time deciding which I like best.

Why? Because people who calibrate or pay for a calibration want an accurate picture.
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post #4001 of 4129
4/22/12 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober205 View Post

Why? Because people who calibrate or pay for a calibration want an accurate picture.

So "Warm 2" is supposedly the most accurate? Like I said, Warm 2 doesn't look bad but it does seem fairly red saturated over "Normal".
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post #4002 of 4129
4/23/12 at 11:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober205 View Post

Why? Because people who calibrate or pay for a calibration want an accurate picture.

In my opinion you are both right. People who pay for a calibration want a picture that conforms to the industry standard of 6500 color temp, and Warm2 is the closest to that standard. I think that mode looks pretty good for movies in a very dark room. But let's also agree that for many people (myself included) that type of picture just doesn't cut it for daytime viewing, sports, lots of HD cable broadcasts, etc. I think this is especially true of plasma compared to LCD due to plasma's inherent brightness limitations. That's why you see so many comments on this and other forums of people experimenting with cooler color temps. We can't all be wrong that a cooler temp sometimes look more "realistic" for certain programming, especially if you don't have a batcave. I don't plan on getting a calibration for this very reason, I have seen calibrated sets and it simply doesn't appeal to me, therefore its a waste of time and money. I get a little annoyed with the argument from the calibration group that anything other than a calibrated picture is just crap. I get it, a calibrated set is technically scientifically correct and meets the published industry standard (which by the way is just somebody else's opinion of perfection). But everybody has the right to their own opinion and preference without being made to feel stupid or wrong. After combining all of the knowledge, experience, and suggestions from the people on this forum I got settings that I think represent the best of both worlds. We should all keep an open mind.
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post #4003 of 4129
4/23/12 at 11:55am
Two points for you! I thoroughly agree with you. Well said.
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post #4004 of 4129
4/23/12 at 5:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by C63 View Post


In my opinion you are both right. People who pay for a calibration want a picture that conforms to the industry standard of 6500 color temp, and Warm2 is the closest to that standard. I think that mode looks pretty good for movies in a very dark room. But let's also agree that for many people (myself included) that type of picture just doesn't cut it for daytime viewing, sports, lots of HD cable broadcasts, etc. I think this is especially true of plasma compared to LCD due to plasma's inherent brightness limitations. That's why you see so many comments on this and other forums of people experimenting with cooler color temps. We can't all be wrong that a cooler temp sometimes look more "realistic" for certain programming, especially if you don't have a batcave. I don't plan on getting a calibration for this very reason, I have seen calibrated sets and it simply doesn't appeal to me, therefore its a waste of time and money. I get a little annoyed with the argument from the calibration group that anything other than a calibrated picture is just crap. I get it, a calibrated set is technically scientifically correct and meets the published industry standard (which by the way is just somebody else's opinion of perfection). But everybody has the right to their own opinion and preference without being made to feel stupid or wrong. After combining all of the knowledge, experience, and suggestions from the people on this forum I got settings that I think represent the best of both worlds. We should all keep an open mind.

Yes, you are all wrong. Those cooler setting are not at all more accurate.
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post #4005 of 4129
4/24/12 at 6:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober205 View Post

Yes, you are all wrong. Those cooler setting are not at all more accurate.

I never said they were more accurate. I only said I like them better. But thanks, you proved my point better than I ever could have.
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post #4006 of 4129
4/24/12 at 10:46am
I think the reason many of us switch between the different color temperature settings (Normal, Warm1, Warm2) is because the grayscale has not been properly calibrated. Just because Warm2 is Panasonic’s standard for achieving 6500K, it doesn’t mean that is what you are getting (many TVs from the manufacturer are set with red much higher in the dark band and blue much higher in the lighter band), which is why I believe some of us are seeing colors that don’t look as real to us in Warm2 and we are choosing to experiment with the other settings. Unless you go into the service menu you aren’t going to be able to adjust grayscale. When I have mine calibrated I’ll post the results.

Prior to having my ’03 plasma calibrated, on the 10-point IRE scale, my temperature varied between 7,764 at its lowest, to 9,052 at it’s highest. After calibration the lowest was 6,445 and the highest 6,774.
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post #4007 of 4129
4/25/12 at 7:39pm
anyone buy the 65" from amazon recently? with all the prices coming down in the 2011 clearance was interested in perhaps getting one. if you have purchased one recently was it a pre August 2011 build? Just worried about the FBr issue for builds older than Aug 2011.
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post #4008 of 4129
4/26/12 at 9:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangersFan View Post

anyone buy the 65" from amazon recently? with all the prices coming down in the 2011 clearance was interested in perhaps getting one. if you have purchased one recently was it a pre August 2011 build? Just worried about the FBr issue for builds older than Aug 2011.

Just received the p65gt30 yesterday via CEVAS, ordered and fulfilled from Amazon. I've been eyeing the st30 for a year now and since all the retailers are clearancing the 2011, it a damn good price, so I splurged for the gt30.
build date is 11/2011, so everything should be good.
Haven't unboxed yet, finishing up drywalling the cables behind the wall.
I plan to do the dnice 100hr panel conditioning and then go with his settings.
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post #4009 of 4129
4/27/12 at 5:03am
Quick question for you guys:

I have a GT30 55 inch that I bought in December, manufactured in November. Panasonic techs are coming out today because I got the 7 red blinking lights (no power).

Will I need to redo my settings? I shouldn't need to do another break in period correct? What about firmware updates, will I need to reinstall them?

Thanks in advance.
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post #4010 of 4129
4/27/12 at 10:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avenger9 View Post

By any chance does anyone have a stand for a 55GT30 that they're never going to use? I would LOVE to take it off your hands to match it up with an open box model that I'm eyeballing! Thanks

I may be willing to part with mine if a 60GT30 will fit the a 55GT30
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post #4011 of 4129
4/27/12 at 11:29am
Quote:

There's a 2.1 update:
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/c.../down_pro.html
(Description: 1. 1.Change professional color setting.)



For the Luminance update, is this necessary on ALL tv's? Or just one's that have a certain build date?

How do I find my build date if the latter is the case?

I downloaded this, but don't want to attempt it unless I confirm it is needed?
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post #4012 of 4129
4/27/12 at 12:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomPain View Post

Quick question for you guys:

I have a GT30 55 inch that I bought in December, manufactured in November. Panasonic techs are coming out today because I got the 7 red blinking lights (no power).

Will I need to redo my settings? I shouldn't need to do another break in period correct? What about firmware updates, will I need to reinstall them?

Thanks in advance.

All your settings will be on the A-board and that's the part they may change.
No panel aging needed if they don't change it.
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post #4013 of 4129
4/27/12 at 12:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeking1978 View Post

For the Luminance update, is this necessary on ALL tv's? Or just one's that have a certain build date?

How do I find my build date if the latter is the case?

I downloaded this, but don't want to attempt it unless I confirm it is needed?

The 2.1 patch is designed for all GT30s regardless of build date I think (unlike the fixes for the fluctuating brightness which only affected sets built prior to August 2011 or something like that). Whether its "necessary" or not is debatable, but most people who have done the patch (myself included) think the panel looks better with it, especially if you use Custom mode. Improvements in THX mode are very subtle (if there at all). Lots of info on the 2.1 patch in this and other forums. Do some research and then decide for yourself if it's a good idea. General consensus is that it can't hurt.
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post #4014 of 4129
4/27/12 at 6:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

All your settings will be on the A-board and that's the part they may change.
No panel aging needed if they don't change it.

Thanks whipit. They ended up not touching the A board but replaced 3 other boards and still no go. Then he put his light up to the screen and noticed a starburst crack right in the middle. Good thing is that it was an internal crack and therefore covered by warranty. I thought one of my little ones just cost me $1300!
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post #4015 of 4129
4/27/12 at 6:50pm
Thanks - I actually did find a stand and just got the set up and going. Thank you again though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeking1978 View Post

I may be willing to part with mine if a 60GT30 will fit the a 55GT30
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post #4016 of 4129
4/28/12 at 3:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomPain View Post

Thanks whipit. They ended up not touching the A board but replaced 3 other boards and still no go. Then he put his light up to the screen and noticed a starburst crack right in the middle. Good thing is that it was an internal crack and therefore covered by warranty. I thought one of my little ones just cost me $1300!

Usually a panel replacement costs more than a tv replacement. Curious how this will turn out for you, keep us posted.
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post #4017 of 4129
4/28/12 at 4:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

Usually a panel replacement costs more than a tv replacement. Curious how this will turn out for you, keep us posted.

Are you saying that the tech was wrong and it is not covered by warranty or that they may just replace the tv instead of fixing it?
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post #4018 of 4129
4/28/12 at 5:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomPain View Post

Are you saying that the tech was wrong and it is not covered by warranty or that they may just replace the tv instead of fixing it?

Insist that they give you a new GT50 for all the headaches you had to go thru..

Many ST30 owners who had to get their panels exchanged due to warranty issues recieved the new year model ST50....

So don't sit on your hands and insist that they give you a GT50 in exchange.
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post #4019 of 4129
4/28/12 at 6:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomPain View Post

Are you saying that the tech was wrong and it is not covered by warranty or that they may just replace the tv instead of fixing it?

By the information you gave here they tried a few things and then found the problem they missed which was a broken screen caused by either a failed internal part that hit the screen or the screen taking itself out. Either way an internal crack should be covered by the warranty.

So like peter said, you are most likely due for a new tv to replace your old one since it's cheaper than repairing due to parts and labor being so high.

You'll want to push for a GT to replace your GT and not settle for an ST without all the features you bought a GT for. They may try to tell you that an ST from this year is an upgrade from last years GT.
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post #4020 of 4129
4/28/12 at 6:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post

Insist that they give you a new GT50 for all the headaches you had to go thru..

Many ST30 owners who had to get their panels exchanged due to warranty issues recieved the new year model ST50....

So don't sit on your hands and insist that they give you a GT50 in exchange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

By the information you gave here they tried a few things and then found the problem they missed which was a broken screen caused by either a failed internal part that hit the screen or the screen taking itself out. Either way an internal crack should be covered by the warranty.

So like peter said, you are most likely due for a new tv to replace your old one since it's cheaper than repairing due to parts and labor being so high.

You'll want to push for a GT to replace your GT and not settle for an ST without all the features you bought a GT for. They may try to tell you that an ST from this year is an upgrade from last years GT.

Thank you both.

Are you guys saying that if they replace the model then it won't be with a GT30 and likely they will try and force an ST30 on me? So I should insist they give me the GT50? Is that because GT30's are not being manufactured any longer?

Thank you two for your help/suggestions.
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