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Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE732U Owner's Thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 108

post #3211 of 3787
Is there any real advantage to purchasing the 732 over the 632 in the 70 inch model. I know 732 has the quatron panel and extra yellow, but otherwise are the differences really noticable to the eye? Should I just save a couple hundred and get the 632? I am thinking of getting the 632 bc it would be local at a BB and I could easily return if the dreaded clouding and dark corners is prevalent.
post #3212 of 3787
Is anyone here using a Harmony remote with our TV? I need to have the ability to assign a screen button to a specific AV mode, not a toggle. Hope this doesn't require a Harmony tech!
post #3213 of 3787
Does this TV support audio return via HDMI? ( HDMI 1.4)

Just noticed that some all in one speaker systems have this as an option and I am wondering if the TV supports it as it sounds like this could solve my USB voice syncing issue...

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/arc.aspx

Quote:


LipSync functionality, introduced in HDMI 1.3, ensures that the audio stays matched to the video, automatically compensating for any processor delays whether the audio is traveling upstream or downstream.
post #3214 of 3787
Have a chance topics up a 6-mth old 732 for 1600. Worth it?
post #3215 of 3787
Sorry - iPad auto-correct strikes again. I have a chance to pick up a 732 for 1600....good deal?
post #3216 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post

Is anyone here using a Harmony remote with our TV? I need to have the ability to assign a screen button to a specific AV mode, not a toggle. Hope this doesn't require a Harmony tech!

I have the 733 & am using the Harmony One remote. I programmed it on the Logitech site, which didn't seem to have all the duplicate buttons on the original remote. I also didn't find a direct (discrete) button for a specific (AV or HDMI) input. That doesn't necissarily mean that there isn't a means of doing it, I just haven't looked that hard into doing it yet, but like you would like to have direct input access too. If I find it assuming it can be done I will report back here.
post #3217 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by fromjusttheking View Post


I have the 733 & am using the Harmony One remote. I programmed it on the Logitech site, which didn't seem to have all the duplicate buttons on the original remote. I also didn't find a direct (discrete) button for a specific (AV or HDMI) input. That doesn't necissarily mean that there isn't a means of doing it, I just haven't looked that hard into doing it yet, but like you would like to have direct input access too. If I find it assuming it can be done I will report back here.

After calibration I now use 3 of the AV modes for different sources. It is becoming a nightmare to remember to change it. Isn't that what the Harmony is for?
Thanks for your reply.
post #3218 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post

After calibration I now use 3 of the AV modes for different sources. It is becoming a nightmare to remember to change it. Isn't that what the Harmony is for?
Thanks for your reply.

Well, I can tell you this much for sure. The software that Logitech is using is really pretty poor. I have torn my hair out using it too. Their remote works very well IF, IF you are able to properly program it, and it can only be programmed with their software. I have even tried the learning function with only moderate success. I also at one time did contact their techs, and believe it or not, they did a pretty fair job in programming my Harmony One remotely. But it did have its hiccups too. You might try contacting them by phone and they might be able to help. I will likely have to do the same as well. Just looked thru the Sharp 733U Operations Manual, and it pretty much infers that there is no direct access to a particular input. So if you want to go to let's say HDMI 1 or AV1 you have to go thru the list and scroll thru it using the up or down arrows to get there. Wish it weren't so. Oh well, I guess we can't have it all. At least the HD TV video is stunning.
post #3219 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by fromjusttheking View Post


Well, I can tell you this much for sure. The software that Logitech is using is really pretty poor. I have torn my hair out using it too. Their remote works very well IF, IF you are able to properly program it, and it can only be programmed with their software. I have even tried the learning function with only moderate success. I also at one time did contact their techs, and believe it or not, they did a pretty fair job in programming my Harmony One remotely. But it did have its hiccups too. You might try contacting them by phone and they might be able to help. I will likely have to do the same as well. Just looked thru the Sharp 733U Operations Manual, and it pretty much infers that there is no direct access to a particular input. So if you want to go to let's say HDMI 1 or AV1 you have to go thru the list and scroll thru it using the up or down arrows to get there. Wish it weren't so. Oh well, I guess we can't have it all. At least the HD TV video is stunning.

I found a way to have the remote switch to the correct input assigned to that activity. PM me for details. My problem is switching to the correct AV mode.
post #3220 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post

I found a way to have the remote switch to the correct input assigned to that activity. PM me for details. My problem is switching to the correct AV mode.

Please post your method here or PM me.

Thank you.
post #3221 of 3787
Got the Disney WOW disc to see if I could make the awesome picture more "awesomer".
Lots of eye candy on this two disc set. Funny thing, I went through all the menus on the set up disc, and the TV was set up right out of the box. (733).

The disc was not a waste of money just for some of the video, but really it seems great out of the box. Or I am going blind/ and or/ not fussy.
post #3222 of 3787
Just unboxed my 732 and so far it's great! One thing I noticed while using the Disney wow calibration disk is that depending on the picture mode the recommended settings are different? For example - on movie mode I can get the color and tint dialed in well with the blue filter, but the contrast test has me set it to 39? Furthermore, if I switch to game then the contrast drops to like 31 but the color is way off (like needs to be maxed out for the blue filter to work which def doesn't look right overall).

Am I missing something here? The contrast setting definitely seems high though it doesn't look weird in movie mode but in game the color is way off?
post #3223 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Just unboxed my 732 and so far it's great! One thing I noticed while using the Disney wow calibration disk is that depending on the picture mode the recommended settings are different? For example - on movie mode I can get the color and tint dialed in well with the blue filter, but the contrast test has me set it to 39? Furthermore, if I switch to game then the contrast drops to like 31 but the color is way off (like needs to be maxed out for the blue filter to work which def doesn't look right overall).

Am I missing something here? The contrast setting definitely seems high though it doesn't look weird in movie mode but in game the color is way off?

I'm not familiar with the settings on the 732 but does it have a calibration setting other than the pre-sets (movie, pc, standard, what ever)? The pre-sets should have settings you can tweak for it's particular use but not necessarily calibrate. The pre-sets usually disable certain features depending on the setting. There should be another setting somewhere that you can use to calibrate your set and then just use that setting for all of your viewing. For example, my set has Cinema, Game, Standard, Vivid, and Sport as pre-sets that can be modified a bit. It then has two extra settings, Expert 1 and Expert 2 that have a very wide range of calibration settings and options that can be applied to any input. I used one of the Expert "settings" to calibrate my set (basics, CMS, and IREs) via the AVS HD709 disk and use that setting for tv viewing (OTA) and movies.
post #3224 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post


I'm not familiar with the settings on the 732 but does it have a calibration setting other than the pre-sets (movie, pc, standard, what ever)? The pre-sets should have settings you can tweak for it's particular use but not necessarily calibrate. The pre-sets usually disable certain features depending on the setting. There should be another setting somewhere that you can use to calibrate your set and then just use that setting for all of your viewing. For example, my set has Cinema, Game, Standard, Vivid, and Sport as pre-sets that can be modified a bit. It then has two extra settings, Expert 1 and Expert 2 that have a very wide range of calibration settings and options that can be applied to any input. I used one of the Expert "settings" to calibrate my set (basics, CMS, and IREs) via the AVS HD709 disk and use that setting for tv viewing (OTA) and movies.

Yea it has some customizable settings but I am just curious why you can get such different settings depending on the preset mode? Seems like in general the overall picture is better on movie vs other settings even after doing calibration on both?
post #3225 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Yea it has some customizable settings but I am just curious why you can get such different settings depending on the preset mode? Seems like in general the overall picture is better on movie vs other settings even after doing calibration on both?

My guess is that the presets are set by the mfr as to what they feel is best overall for that particular setting and disable some functionality. How they arrive at that is anybody's guess. On my LG, Cinema mode right out of the box looked ok until I calibrated my set and I never went back to Cinema mode. If you want to "calibrate" your presets, then you'll have to do each one separately keeping in mind that not all of the features are available on all of the presets, and you're not actually calibrating your set, you're just adjusting some settings. To properly calibrate, you need to first set the gray scale and white level, contrast, sharpness, and aspect ratio. Then color and CMS. Adjusting the preset just won't cut as you've seen. But it all depends on your tv and how adjustable the user settings are for calibration.
post #3226 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post


My guess is that the presets are set by the mfr as to what they feel is best overall for that particular setting and disable some functionality. How they arrive at that is anybody's guess. On my LG, Cinema mode right out of the box looked ok until I calibrated my set and I never went back to Cinema mode. If you want to "calibrate" your presets, then you'll have to do each one separately keeping in mind that not all of the features are available on all of the presets, and you're not actually calibrating your set, you're just adjusting some settings. To properly calibrate, you need to first set the gray scale and white level, contrast, sharpness, and aspect ratio. Then color and CMS. Adjusting the preset just won't cut as you've seen. But it all depends on your tv and how adjustable the user settings are for calibration.

But on the 732 you have full adjustability on every preset mode. You can manually tweak all settings - contrast, color and advanced CMS settings. That's why I confused by the fact that setting identical settings between presets results in different PQ?
post #3227 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Yea it has some customizable settings but I am just curious why you can get such different settings depending on the preset mode? Seems like in general the overall picture is better on movie vs other settings even after doing calibration on both?

I just had my 732 calibrated. I found the movie mode works best with my Blu Ray feed but when I switched to my cable box input (via AVR), the color was too intense. Faces were red. To solve this problem I copied the settings to the "User" mode then backed off the color a few places. So now I use user mode for cable, movie for discs & game for xbox. Moral is the source is often the culprit here.
Now if I can only find a way to have my One remote change AV settings on the fly it will be perfect!
post #3228 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

But on the 732 you have full adjustability on every preset mode. You can manually tweak all settings - contrast, color and advanced CMS settings. That's why I confused by the fact that setting identical settings between presets results in different PQ?

On my LG, I can save each individual setting to whatever I want. Saving one setting doesn't automatically apply to all inputs unless I specify that. I would suggest resetting all of your presets or whatever back to default and then carefully going thru all of the options to see if there are any that are disabled for that particular setting. That could be the difference. If all of your presets are the same at default with nothing disabled, then you're going to have to tweak each setting to your liking and room conditions. I would make a little spreadsheet and mark down what settings you are using for the presets, that way you can quickly look at the differences side by side and decide what may work best for whatever you want to do. A lot of work for sure but it beats having to try to remember what they all were/are and what you changed where and when. On my LG it's fairly easy to see how each preset is set and what I can change, or not. The nice thing about having the Expert Settings function is that I can perform a full calibration and apply that to all of my inputs and never have to mess with the presets, or use a different Expert setting for daytime viewing or night time viewing. TVs nowadays aren't what they used to be. It's nice to have all of the options available without having to resort to messing with the service menu anymore but the "tweaking to taste" takes a lot more time. Be patient, take good notes, and you'll get there.

Oh, and as Geezer suggested, source can also be an issue. Especially with cable or satellite, not so much with OTA (which is how we get tv).
post #3229 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post

Now if I can only find a way to have my One remote change AV settings on the fly it will be perfect!

Can't you do that as part of the Activities setup? I use the 880 (I'm assuming by One you mean the Harmony One) and I can switch back and forth between watching tv, the BD player, or the AppleTV2 with pretty much full control over whatever Device happens to be used for that Activity. Not perfect but pretty damn close.
post #3230 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post


On my LG, I can save each individual setting to whatever I want. Saving one setting doesn't automatically apply to all inputs unless I specify that. I would suggest resetting all of your presets or whatever back to default and then carefully going thru all of the options to see if there are any that are disabled for that particular setting. That could be the difference. If all of your presets are the same at default with nothing disabled, then you're going to have to tweak each setting to your liking and room conditions. I would make a little spreadsheet and mark down what settings you are using for the presets, that way you can quickly look at the differences side by side and decide what may work best for whatever you want to do. A lot of work for sure but it beats having to try to remember what they all were/are and what you changed where and when. On my LG it's fairly easy to see how each preset is set and what I can change, or not. The nice thing about having the Expert Settings function is that I can perform a full calibration and apply that to all of my inputs and never have to mess with the presets, or use a different Expert setting for daytime viewing or night time viewing. TVs nowadays aren't what they used to be. It's nice to have all of the options available without having to resort to messing with the service menu anymore but the "tweaking to taste" takes a lot more time. Be patient, take good notes, and you'll get there.

Oh, and as Geezer suggested, source can also be an issue. Especially with cable or satellite, not so much with OTA (which is how we get tv).

I went step by step through every setting on both presents and they are identical, yet the blue filter doesn't lie! Something else must be different between presets under the hood - has to be?
post #3231 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Can't you do that as part of the Activities setup? I use the 880 (I'm assuming by One you mean the Harmony One) and I can switch back and forth between watching tv, the BD player, or the AppleTV2 with pretty much full control over whatever Device happens to be used for that Activity. Not perfect but pretty damn close.

Sure it works for handling switching between devices (even changes input on tv if required), but I have yet to figure a way to have the activity switch AV Modes. I have a dedicated AV button on each activity but that requires me to manually change from Movie to User each time I change activities. If you know something I'm lacking please let me know as my free support @ Harmony has expired.
post #3232 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I went step by step through every setting on both presents and they are identical, yet the blue filter doesn't lie! Something else must be different between presets under the hood - has to be?

Hmmm, without actually looking at your presets and available options it's hard to say. It seems to me that if all of the presets have equal functions available, then setting them all exactly the same should result in a very similar picture. What about the labeling of the HDMI inputs? On the LG, if you label an HDMI input (from a pull down menu) to PC, or STB, or whatever, that changes some of the functionality/options to make that particular input more compatible with the connected device. For example, I calibrated my set via the BD player (with no video processing on at all) thru the HDMI1 input (labeled as HDMI1). I stored the calibration in my Expert 1 "slot" and then applied that across the board to my other devices (OTA tv and the AppleTV2). The resulting pq is fantastic. If my son wants to play a game from his laptop (MacBookPro) he just connects it via mini-HDMI to HDMI, changes the HMDI input label to PC (the LG has 4 HDMI inputs so we just leave HDMI4 input at PC cause it's on the side of the tv for easy access), and uses the Game mode (which has been tweaked to his liking).
post #3233 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post


Hmmm, without actually looking at your presets and available options it's hard to say. It seems to me that if all of the presets have equal functions available, then setting them all exactly the same should result in a very similar picture. What about the labeling of the HDMI inputs?

That's what I would expect as well, but it is clearly not the case. Just looking at game mode vs movie, for example, there is a very observable different color response when using the blue filter on matched settings. That is why I would like to know what else is different that the user cannot adjust when switching modes, which one is the best for PQ, etc. To me movie seems to be the best starting point (even better than custom, def better than game).

I can independently label all HDMI inputs, regardless of the present picture setting used. Doesn't appear to make any difference doing that.
post #3234 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

That's what I would expect as well, but it is clearly not the case. Just looking at game mode vs movie, for example, there is a very observable different color response when using the blue filter on matched settings. That is why I would like to know what else is different that the user cannot adjust when switching modes, which one is the best for PQ, etc. To me movie seems to be the best starting point (even better than custom, def better than game).

I can independently label all HDMI inputs, regardless of the present picture setting used. Doesn't appear to make any difference doing that.

What you're experiencing is normal on virtually all sets these days. You may have heard of the "service menu" in tv sets. The service menu, which is supposed to be accessed only by pros, has what I'll call "sub" or baseline settings for all the user adjustments. The user settings allow you to deviate from these baseline settings.

The service menu baseline settings are different for each picture mode--thus a user setting of, say, 0 for "color" will be different in each mode because the baseline setting is different.

In Otto's case he's got ISF-1 and ISF-2 and they actually do have identical service menu settings to deviate from. The idea here is to save one bunch of settings for dark rooms and another for bright ones, or to compensate for different source devices.

Along with these differing baseline settings for user adjustments there are differing degrees of various picture "enhancements" stored per mode. Usually the Dynamic or Vivid mode will have lot's more edge enhancement, noise reduction, whatever's going to make the set stand out the most in a retail environment. Color balance or color temp or whatever may also have service menu variations on a per mode basis.

It's common for some adjustments in the user menu to be grayed out or just not appear in some pic modes--for example most Sonys only have 2 color temp settings in Vivid, but 4 or 5 in Custom.

Usually the best place to start is to find the pic mode that allows the most adjustments and use the calibration disc in that mode, but ymmv.
post #3235 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post

What you're experiencing is normal on virtually all sets these days. You may have heard of the "service menu" in tv sets. The service menu, which is supposed to be accessed only by pros, has what I'll call "sub" or baseline settings for all the user adjustments. The user settings allow you to deviate from these baseline settings.

The service menu baseline settings are different for each picture mode--thus a user setting of, say, 0 for "color" will be different in each mode because the baseline setting is different.

In Otto's case he's got ISF-1 and ISF-2 and they actually do have identical service menu settings to deviate from. The idea here is to save one bunch of settings for dark rooms and another for bright ones, or to compensate for different source devices.

Along with these differing baseline settings for user adjustments there are differing degrees of various picture "enhancements" stored per mode. Usually the Dynamic or Vivid mode will have lot's more edge enhancement, noise reduction, whatever's going to make the set stand out the most in a retail environment. Color balance or color temp or whatever may also have service menu variations on a per mode basis.

It's common for some adjustments in the user menu to be grayed out or just not appear in some pic modes--for example most Sonys only have 2 color temp settings in Vivid, but 4 or 5 in Custom.

Usually the best place to start is to find the pic mode that allows the most adjustments and use the calibration disc in that mode, but ymmv.

Nice, simple explanation. Hope we don't start getting "how do I access the service menu?" questions
post #3236 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zender Home View Post

Does this TV support audio return via HDMI? ( HDMI 1.4)

Just noticed that some all in one speaker systems have this as an option and I am wondering if the TV supports it as it sounds like this could solve my USB voice syncing issue...

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/arc.aspx

My 732 supports ARC, I think the other models do too. They all have wired/wireless networking and if you are going to use one of the internet sources like Netflix then you pretty much need ARC. Same goes for USB inputs.

However, I still have pretty serious syncing issues.
post #3237 of 3787
I've got a 732 that is about 6 months old. I recently plugged a USB memory stick into the USB port1. Now every time I turn the TV on it comes up in the USB menu no matter that I was watching the cable box or DVD player or Netflix when it was turned off. How do I get it to not do this without removing the memory stick? I'd rather leave the memory stick plugged in as it's pretty hard to reach the port.
post #3238 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_gallup View Post

My 732 supports ARC, I think the other models do too. They all have wired/wireless networking and if you are going to use one of the internet sources like Netflix then you pretty much need ARC. Same goes for USB inputs.

However, I still have pretty serious syncing issues.

Do you have a HTS? You could run optical out to the AVR and that may take care of your audio sync problem. ARC can be dicey at times.
post #3239 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Nice, simple explanation. Hope we don't start getting "how do I access the service menu?" questions

There really isn't much reason to do so any more. For one thing many adjustments for things like grayscale are now available in the user menu. Others that used to require going into the service menu don't apply to fixed pixel displays--I remember spending hours in the service menu of my crt sets trying to correct geometry errors that can't happen on today's sets, as well as trying to achieve an "anamorphic raster squeeze" (ya have to have been around here a long time to remember that subject). Another popular reason was to correct color decoder "red push" which also is a thing of the past.
post #3240 of 3787
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_gallup View Post


My 732 supports ARC, I think the other models do too. They all have wired/wireless networking and if you are going to use one of the internet sources like Netflix then you pretty much need ARC. Same goes for USB inputs.

However, I still have pretty serious syncing issues.

I have bad voice syncing issues with HDMI alone (connected to my HT system) in any video mode but Game. So bad to the point that the max my AVR can adjust (200ms) is still not quite enough. Anyone out there have similar problems or know of a solution?
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