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Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE732U Owner's Thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 116

post #3451 of 3787
2/2/12 at 5:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbinMerritt View Post

I've seen trails on fast moving objects like a thrown football from time to time with the 120hz on.

Good to know, thanks! I haven't caught a full game yet (only playing around with it). Do you like it for sports? Are you using Movie or User or another avMode?
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post #3452 of 3787
2/2/12 at 5:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by djap2 View Post

Good to know, thanks! I haven't caught a full game yet (only playing around with it). Do you like it for sports? Are you using Movie or User or another avMode?

I'm using Movie mode -- that mode makes all the controls I need for calibration available. If I weren't going to do any adjustments, I would probably use "auto."

The only football game I will watch on TV this year will be the Superbowl. I've only checked out other games to see how the TV did.
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post #3453 of 3787
2/2/12 at 6:37am
Trying to determine between the 732 and 734. I will be connecting the tv to my pc. The manual says pc compatibility 1080p, 1920 x 1080, Horz Freq. 67.5 kHz, Vert Freq. 60 Hz. Does this mean I won't get the 120hz refresh rate with the 732 or 240hz with the 734?
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post #3454 of 3787
2/2/12 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by i3one21 View Post

Trying to determine between the 732 and 734. I will be connecting the tv to my pc. The manual says pc compatibility 1080p, 1920 x 1080, Horz Freq. 67.5 kHz, Vert Freq. 60 Hz. Does this mean I won't get the 120hz refresh rate with the 732 or 240hz with the 734?

How are you connecting the pc to the tv? VGA or HDMI?
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post #3455 of 3787
2/2/12 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by i3one21 View Post

Trying to determine between the 732 and 734. I will be connecting the tv to my pc. The manual says pc compatibility 1080p, 1920 x 1080, Horz Freq. 67.5 kHz, Vert Freq. 60 Hz. Does this mean I won't get the 120hz refresh rate with the 732 or 240hz with the 734?

The input frequency has no effect on the panel refresh rate. The panel is refreshing on both TVs at 120hz regardless of the source.
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post #3456 of 3787
2/3/12 at 7:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbinMerritt View Post

I've seen trails on fast moving objects like a thrown football from time to time with the 120hz on.

Fair enough, haven't looked that closely myself as I do not watch a lot of football, but I thought I read that with 120 Hz off you loose a good deal of resolution. It was somewhere in the very early pages here. Could some of that ghosting be caused by the tv having to uprez 720p sources to 1080p for display? I thought CBS was at 720p, or at least one of the biggies was...Also I know one persons calibrations do not necessarily work for someone else for a variety of reasons, but they CAN be a starting point toward a better picture.
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post #3457 of 3787
2/3/12 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemC View Post

Fair enough, haven't looked that closely myself as I do not watch a lot of football, but I thought I read that with 120 Hz off you loose a good deal of resolution. It was somewhere in the very early pages here. Could some of that ghosting be caused by the tv having to uprez 720p sources to 1080p for display? I thought CBS was at 720p, or at least one of the biggies was...Also I know one persons calibrations do not necessarily work for someone else for a variety of reasons, but they CAN be a starting point toward a better picture.

That wouldn't make sense, the refresh rate of the panel has nothing to do with the display resolution
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post #3458 of 3787
2/3/12 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

That wouldn't make sense, the refresh rate of the panel has nothing to do with the display resolution

Of course the panel is always refreshing at 120hz regardless of what you do. But I've also read a reviewer that commented that the apparent image resolution during camera pans and such was higher with the Motion Enhancement turned on. The trade off being that the enhancement isn't always correct and trails can result.
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post #3459 of 3787
2/3/12 at 5:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbinMerritt View Post

Of course the panel is always refreshing at 120hz regardless of what you do. But I've also read a reviewer that commented that the apparent image resolution during camera pans and such was higher with the Motion Enhancement turned on. The trade off being that the enhancement isn't always correct and trails can result.

This is according to a well respected ISF calibrator and magazine writer:

"If you turn Motionflow off, you lose about 2/3 of the HD resolution during motion. ALL detail is destroyed. This is CLEARLY obvious using DisplayMate With Motion - a PC-based program that has 100s of test patterns with the Motion version including moving test patterns and moving images (a still photo is panned across the screen in several motions... horizontal, vertical, diagonal) so you can see the loss of detail very easily. You may be able to replicate this by displaying a PC desktop on the TV, opening a photo with a good amount of detail that's perhaps 10% the size of the screen, then drag the photo around the screen with the mouse. It will clearly show how blurred images are with Motionflow turned off."
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post #3460 of 3787
2/3/12 at 8:02pm
That was what I was referring to. I know you cannot change the refresh rate of the panel, but when someone with far more experience than I tests extensively and is backed up by several other sources I tend to listen. Anyway you can try it yourself and see. What have you got to loose?
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post #3461 of 3787
2/6/12 at 9:00am
After lurking on this forum for days, looking at all the purchase options such as the 632, 732, 733, 734, 735, I finally made my decision and just ordered the 732. Price wise and feature wise, it made the most sense to me. Ordered it on Amazon thru Paul's TV and also got the 12 months no-interest financing offer. It is scheduled for delivery this Friday the 10th. Also ordered the Disney WOW calibration blu-ray disk. Can't wait to get it. Thanks for all the great advice on this forum. Jerry
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post #3462 of 3787
2/6/12 at 10:44am
Congrats your going to love it!!
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post #3463 of 3787
2/6/12 at 4:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

That wouldn't make sense, the refresh rate of the panel has nothing to do with the display resolution

The above is correct. I get my programming over the air. I capture and store recorded content at 720p from my local Fox station, and at 1080i from the CBS, NBC, PBS stations. The ABC station here in Pittsburgh upconverts their 720p signal to 1080i. I find the Fox signal, at 720p, depending on the content, looks almost fuzzy at times, like fake hd.

The problem with some stations, is a lack of bandwidth for the main channel. I saw a lot of pixel breakup during transition shots of the NBC peacock on the superbowl last night. When digital stations transmit more than one channel, they have to split the signal into multiple parts, reducing the signal transmission rate - thus causing macroblocking.

http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_te...i=56319,00.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macroblock


No amount of motion enhancement will make blur go away. It depends on your source. The local CBS station has better looking HD because they don't multicast liike our NBC, Fox, and PBS affiliates.

On the other hand, digital, over the air signals are not compressed, as they are on most cable and satellite operations. I found the tuner in my 732 is very good - I'm picking up WTOV - Stubenville, Wheeling from 70 - 80 miles away with an antenna inside my attic.
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post #3464 of 3787
2/6/12 at 4:53pm
My 732 was made Oct 2011 and the remote, model GA935WJSA, has 4 feet on the bottom. My friend says his 732 remote has only three feet on the bottom and tips over when he pushes the input button.
Can anyone shed some light on this issue please? Thank you.
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post #3465 of 3787
2/6/12 at 5:09pm
I have the same model number with 4 feet
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post #3466 of 3787
2/6/12 at 11:50pm
I'm beginning to think its impossible to calibrate this set in game mode. I have a fantastic calibration in movie mode but as much as I fight to get things dialed in (using CalMAN + D3 meter) even when test patterns look good watching real footage sucks. I can get a nice looking greyscale but colors just won't come into place - usually have issues with blue, green and yellow.

Anyone have any success getting a good cal out of game mode and mind sharing their settings as a starting point? Thanks much - I an getting sick of trying =X
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post #3467 of 3787
2/7/12 at 2:53am
Just wanted to put up a few shots of this set.

(movie mode, cnet settings)





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post #3468 of 3787
2/7/12 at 2:59am
nice but i would want, and have white bias lighting.
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post #3469 of 3787
2/7/12 at 3:09am
It's only a light bulb change away. I was curious how blue would work. I like it for dark movies, like the above, for brighter stuff it isnt as effective.
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post #3470 of 3787
2/7/12 at 3:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

It's only a light bulb change away. I was curious how blue would work. I like it for dark movies, like the above, for brighter stuff it isnt as effective.

What are you using.for bias? I find most are no where near 6500k
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post #3471 of 3787
2/7/12 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzook View Post

What are you using.for bias? I find most are no where near 6500k

$10 clip on desk lamp with a 13w blue CFL bulb. 6500K bulbs are easy to find though.
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post #3472 of 3787
2/7/12 at 10:58am
my set is wall mounted and less than 2 inches from the wall. Maybe some day I will find some decent rope lighting to use
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post #3473 of 3787
2/7/12 at 12:07pm
One of my friends got the 70" 734u version for his superbowl party. I came over the day before with the 709 disk and a panny 210 on to just make sure that the contrast and brightness was good. It was 4 bars short in the black, and the white bars test was turned up too high. Very notably bluish, so I corrected these simply and changed the screen temp to normal from the highest default setting, to get the white reference color white.

While we were watching the game when the ball was thrown a few times I think that the motion looked strobed. And it was not as smooth as my panny plasma (gt25), where you could see the laces color as the football spins. No one else seemed to notice. Should I see if he's got the 240 motion turned on? Or off?

also during some of the commercials, where they end with a solid color background, I thought it looked like clouds. Finally when the 709 disk was in there, the basic overscan panels were great but not the additional pixel x pixel ones which all looked blurred.

I suggested that he get a pro calibration but he was rattling to me that he doesn't see what I was complaining about. This wasn't my suggestion for a set.


Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post


The above is correct. I get my programming over the air. I capture and store recorded content at 720p from my local Fox station, and at 1080i from the CBS, NBC, PBS stations. The ABC station here in Pittsburgh upconverts their 720p signal to 1080i. I find the Fox signal, at 720p, depending on the content, looks almost fuzzy at times, like fake hd.

The problem with some stations, is a lack of bandwidth for the main channel. I saw a lot of pixel breakup during transition shots of the NBC peacock on the superbowl last night. When digital stations transmit more than one channel, they have to split the signal into multiple parts, reducing the signal transmission rate - thus causing macroblocking.

http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_te...i=56319,00.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macroblock

No amount of motion enhancement will make blur go away. It depends on your source. The local CBS station has better looking HD because they don't multicast liike our NBC, Fox, and PBS affiliates.

On the other hand, digital, over the air signals are not compressed, as they are on most cable and satellite operations. I found the tuner in my 732 is very good - I'm picking up WTOV - Stubenville, Wheeling from 70 - 80 miles away with an antenna inside my attic.
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post #3474 of 3787
2/7/12 at 3:22pm
When calibrating the brightness and contrast using the Disney WOW disc, I will adjust the brightness and contrast so that you can see the appropriate stars, checkers, etc. and everything looks great on the test pattern. As soon as I hit the “menu” button to exit the picture controls the brightness/contrast change and I can see too many stars, checkers, etc. on the test patterns. I have all of the usual settings (motion, OPC, film mode, etc.) turned off. I am using the Movie mode. Any ideas on why the picture is fluctuating once I exit the picture settings?
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post #3475 of 3787
2/7/12 at 3:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveg. View Post

When calibrating the brightness and contrast using the Disney WOW disc, I will adjust the brightness and contrast so that you can see the appropriate stars, checkers, etc. and everything looks great on the test pattern. As soon as I hit the menu button to exit the picture controls the brightness/contrast change and I can see too many stars, checkers, etc. on the test patterns. I have all of the usual settings (motion, OPC, film mode, etc.) turned off. I am using the Movie mode. Any ideas on why the picture is fluctuating once I exit the picture settings?

You may want to post this in the Display Calibration topic. I don't know if it's still active, but they had a very interesting thread on the WOW disk. The producer was actively participating, answering questions, etc.
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post #3476 of 3787
2/7/12 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I'm beginning to think its impossible to calibrate this set in game mode. I have a fantastic calibration in movie mode but as much as I fight to get things dialed in (using CalMAN + D3 meter) even when test patterns look good watching real footage sucks. I can get a nice looking greyscale but colors just won't come into place - usually have issues with blue, green and yellow.

Anyone have any success getting a good cal out of game mode and mind sharing their settings as a starting point? Thanks much - I an getting sick of trying =X

I don't really understand what is going on here - I can get game mode into a close enough cal using color slides and my meter but then when watching actual content everything has a clear red tint to it? Makes no sense to me why the cal would still look good but the end result so crappy? Please let me know your thoughts - things look great doing the same process in movie mode, don't understand why I would see such a difference yet the values are still in line....
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post #3477 of 3787
2/7/12 at 7:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I don't really understand what is going on here - I can get game mode into a close enough cal using color slides and my meter but then when watching actual content everything has a clear red tint to it? Makes no sense to me why the cal would still look good but the end result so crappy? Please let me know your thoughts - things look great doing the same process in movie mode, don't understand why I would see such a difference yet the values are still in line....

My first thought is that the Color Gamut control isn't available in Game mode -- setting that control to standard in Movie mode is important according to Chad's review (page one of the thread). In the extended mode it does things to colors that are not desirable.
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post #3478 of 3787
2/7/12 at 8:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbinMerritt View Post


My first thought is that the Color Gamut control isn't available in Game mode -- setting that control to standard in Movie mode is important according to Chad's review (page one of the thread). In the extended mode it does things to colors that are not desirable.

I see, that could make sense. Is the default expanded in game mode though or normal?

Regardless, I don't get how the color points in CalMAN could be close to ideal and yet the resultant PQ so bad?
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post #3479 of 3787
2/8/12 at 6:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I see, that could make sense. Is the default expanded in game mode though or normal?

Regardless, I don't get how the color points in CalMAN could be close to ideal and yet the resultant PQ so bad?

I assume the gamut would default to expanded but I don't know.

My thought? On calibration, the extended gamut probably doesn't come into play when dealing with the color primaries. Once colors start blending (skin tones in particular), the extended settings start affecting how the colors interact.

Also, when you calibrate, do you go back and check/readjust your gray scale after finishing with the primaries/secondaries? I forgot to do this once and ended up with a nearly perfect chart but very red skin tones.
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post #3480 of 3787
2/8/12 at 11:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbinMerritt View Post


I assume the gamut would default to expanded but I don't know.

My thought? On calibration, the extended gamut probably doesn't come into play when dealing with the color primaries. Once colors start blending (skin tones in particular), the extended settings start affecting how the colors interact.

Also, when you calibrate, do you go back and check/readjust your gray scale after finishing with the primaries/secondaries? I forgot to do this once and ended up with a nearly perfect chart but very red skin tones.

I'll recheck the greyscale and report back for sure - though you might also be on to something with the expanded gamut causing problems on everything other than primaries.
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