I'm starting this thread as my build thread. All suggestions are welcome but here is a list of everything I can think of relating to my plans.
Soundproof everything possible
First and foremost I want the issue of sound to be solved up front. I would like to do clips + channel + dd + gg all around to create a blank slate. Then after I have a blank slate I can come back and add on soffits or built in cabinets, desk, and stage area. The way I look at it is then all those pieces could be done after inspections and treated as furniture. Rather large furniture. So here is a list of issue and solutions I've come up with so far for my room.
Walls and Ceiling - I plan on using Whisper RC clips and 25ga hat channel. The following is a list of trouble spots identified to isolating the room.
1. Electrical Panel - Still looking for a solution.
2. Outlets - The outlets will be attached to the 2x4 framed wall but I will use putty pads to help dampen them.
3. Windows - Here is an offered up solution that I will follow.
There is no way you will achieve any real level of isolation by attacking just the ceiling..... the flanking paths through the walls will be the "weak link" - and when it comes to isolation the level of isolation is (for the most part) only as good as it's weakest link.
If you're working with normal resilient channel - you need to be very careful around windows to make certain you do not short the system out (in fact it is very easy to destroy the isolation with resilient channel - all it takes is a few screws in the wrong place). Much better if you use clips and hat sections.
With window openings you are much better off creating drywall finishes instead of wood trims.
Shim and wrap (using drywall) the inside face of the framing to the correct size of the window - allow this to be about 1/8" short of the inside finished face of the drywall on the wall surface.
Make sure that your hat sections stop about 1/4" from the edge of the framing that creates the window opening.
Install the drywall face - holding it about 1/8" from the inside face of the framing.
This combination will allow the face of wall to flex freely - without transmitting sound from the wall the window in installed in.
You can then make a picture type trim frame the correct size for the opening - with (perhaps) a 1/2" return on the inside face - and then either screw this to the hat sections using wood trim screws - or just glue it in place using a good quality construction adhesive....
All you want attached is the face - the idea here being the free movement of the wall with nothing physically hindering that movement.
Whatever you do - be very careful that you do not install any fasteners that connect directly to the wood frame itself - this will lock the floating inner wall - and that will cause you a serious loss in isolation levels.,
4. Sconces - The boxes will need dampening unless I use remodeling boxes.
5. Projector Mount - Still searching for a solution. Would installing a strip of plywood as a first layer be sufficient for mounting the projector.
6. Pool Light - For something that may be a bit heavier Ted gave this nice solution.
This is an example http://pac-intl.com/rsic_whi.html
7. Recessed Lighting - This is a tricky spot for me. Unfortunately I had already purchased a dozen 6 inch cans that have been mounted and unmounted many times. But now that soundproofing has become a goal I think less is of them is more. So on the theater side of my room I now have zero cans and made use of sconces more. On the other side over the pool table (which will really be a board game table to start with) I want a lot of light so I plan to build backer boxes.
8. Equipment Rack under the stairs - No set solution but I was planning to decouple the wall inside the room and also at least do DD + GG on the underside of the stairs.
9. Radiant Cove Heaters - I have no hvac in the room so I have been trying out electric radiant cove heaters. I've really liked them so far. They make no sound and once the room is so throughly insulated I will be able to heat the basement separately from the rest of the house. The heaters are not very heavy so I'm thinking to install plywood as a first layer on the decoupling channel and that will give me a mounting option.
10. Room Ventilation - In talking with www.soundproofingcompany.com I just realized I need to put some thought into fresh air for the room. Currently I'm looking to put a "dead vent" in the utility room below the air exchanger. Still need to determine exactly where to run the flex and vents.
11. Hallway and Door at top of stairs - I think my best option is an extra door just before the main room. Suggestions welcome.
12. In Ceiling Speakers - Just like the lights I'll build backer boxes.
13. Shelf along walls and under window - I haven't thought about this much. I assume driving clips into the concrete block and decoupling drywall on top would be the best option. Then if I wanted it trimmed in wood I could add that later.
I'm all out of thoughts at the moment so here's some current build diagrams.
Next I'll pull some current photos of the basement.
Edited by michaelstrunk - 1/15/13 at 8:19pm