Edit...it's called dynamic volume.
post #151 of 729
7/4/11 at 6:22am
As a general rule, invest at least two-thirds of your purchase on the speakers and only one third to one quarter on your receiver. Speakers play a much more significant role in determining sound quality than the receiver itself.
I am also one of the lucky ones that managed to grab the 360 from the $299 sale at Fry's. I bought it couple of weeks ago when they had their anniversary sale and I have been very satisfied with it!
I have couple of questions, though. I have read all the posts on this thread and the questions are:
1) How do you enable the temperature display on the front panel like Dcmkx2000 shows in the picture? I tried to find it from the manual but was not able to find it. Mind you, I do not think I have any temperature issues with the receiver, though. When I test the surface temperature, it is not hot at all. The geek in me just would like to know every little feature of the receiver.
2) This might be a tricky one and maybe will not have any good solution. I have Samsung's LCD TV (UN55C8000) and I want to use its NetFlix, Vudu, etc. features so using the Audio Return Channel is very important to me so that I can hear the sound from the TV through my receiver. It works really nicely and I have no problems with it.
I also have Logitech's Harmony One remote control.
The problem is that whenever I use the Harmony One to power everything on and start watching TV (I have TiVo for watching TV), play PS3, watch Blue-ray movie, etc. I see everything is powered on correctly and I see the correct HDMI input is chosen on the receiver. After a second or so, when the TV finally turns on, the receiver detects the TV and automatically switches to 'TV/CD' mode, hence I hear no sound or in the case of PS3 or Blue-ray, I see incorrect picture. I have to either use the Harmony One's 'Help' button which will switch the input back to the correct HDMI input, or use the receiver's remote to switch the input there. Neither one of them is very elegant solution.
I have read both the TV's and receiver's manuals to find out if there was a way to disable this automatic input selection when a device is powered on, but the only way I can do it is by disabling RIHD on the receiver, or by disabling CEC on the TV. Both of these actions will also disable Audio Return Channel so they will not be good options for me.
Does anyone else have a similiar problem? Is there a good solution for it?
I think I should be able to configure the Harmony One to wait for second or two and then do an additional mode switch action to switch the receiver back to the correct input, but that would mean I would have to keep the remote pointed toward the TV for those couple of additional seconds which would not be that convenient.
By the way, this issue only happens when I turn everything on. If I go from watching TV to watching Blue-ray and the TV was already on, everything works just fine.
I did reconfigure the Harmony One to first turn on the TV and last turn on the receiver, but that did not help. They are all turned on quickly enough that the TV is still waking up when the receiver is already on.
Quite frankly, I cannot fathom a scenario where anyone would like to have the receiver switch into 'TV/CD' mode when the TV is turned on. I am sure 99.9% of the people who use a receiver like this will have a cable box / Tivo for watching TV so why would the receiver assume that turning on the TV means someone wants to use the 'TV/CD' mode of the receiver? Or maybe I have misunderstood something completely.
For the record, I have my TiVo configured to use the 'CBL/SAT' mode and the 'TV/CD' is used when I use the TV's own apps, like NetFlix, Vudu, etc. I assume it is the 'RIHD' / 'CEC' features that automatically switch into this mode when I use these apps on the TV (the Audio Return Channel only works when you are in the 'TV/CD' mode).
Sorry about the long winded post. I wanted to explain everything in as much detail as possible to avoid any misunderstandings.
I am hoping someone might have experienced similar...
First, my setup:
My home was pre-wired for 3 pairs of speakers (Kitchen, Family Room, and Deck). They set it up such that the built-in cabinet in the family room has 1 wire, that runs to a 'structured wiring' box in the wash room.
In that same 'structured wiring' box is where the other 3 pairs of speaker wiring begin.
Each of those wires goes to a 'volume control' spot and from there to the speaker locations.
Speaker wire is ONLY connected to LF and RF (though tommorrow a sub woofer is arriving to be hooked up). Receiver is in a built-into-the-wall cabinet below the television. The shelf it is on currently, allows it about 5-8 inches of space above it. We leave the cabinet door open when the unit is turned on.
Family Room: Polk Audio rc85i in-wall speakers (8 ohm)
Kitchen: Polk Audio rc80i in-ceiling speakers (8 ohm)
Deck: Cheap brand (Element) outdoor speakers (rated 4-6 ohms) (got several years ago when Circuit City was going out of business)
In Structured Wiring box: all sets of wires are 'color-matched' and connected directly with a wire nut (so 4 wire nuts: Red, White, Black, Green wires). Was recommended by builder's current lo-volt contractor (in lieu of spending money on a on-q audio splitter module).
Between each wire run (between wiring box and speakers): an impedance matching volume control has been installed (based on the instructions, all 3 were configured to a '4x' setting which compensates for 2 paris of 8 ohm and 1 pair between 4-6 ohm).
Now, the audio coming out from the Polk's and the Onkyo is amazing! I also got this particular model for the networking and video upscaling capabilities... for now, no home theater configuration is in the plans, but we will use it to watch television in a 2.1 configuration in the Family room and while listening to music in the kitchen.
issue occurrence 1: We were streaming the World Cup final match from a laptop (via HDMI) through the receiver to the television. The volume was turned up between 50-60 to help everyone here (my wife invited a group of friends over for the game). My wife said that it cut off a little after half-time. The receiver literally shut-down. After a minute or so, they were able to get it started again, but the volume did not return. The volume eventually returned later (i.e. when I got home and tested it). Upon looking over everything, the family room impedance matching volume control was not set at the maximum, which I assumed forced them to crank the volume on the receiver higher. So, I assumed this was a fluke and instructed my wife that we should always turn the impedance matching volume control to its maximum first, then adjust the receiver volume appropriately. I tested it for several hours at lower volumes that night without any re-occurrence of this problem.
issue occurrence 2: tonight, we were playing with a new apple tv that I had purchased and hooked to the unit (main purpose being for airplay)... also like the fact that the Onkyo would up-convert the Apple TV's 720p to 1080p. It played music videos just fine for about an hour, then we put on Tangled to watch. At this point, we had the volume somewhere between 40 and 50. Tangled played for about 1 hour or so when all of a sudden, the unit turned off. After about 30 seconds, I tried to turn it back on... at this point a message appeared that said "Check SP wire" or similar message. I left it off for about 1 minutes, then turned it back on, reduced the volume significantly and it stayed on this time, however the sound was NOT being output. About 1 minute after it had turned off, the sound came back in just fine. I reduced the volume into the 30s and we had no more problems for the night. I did feel on top of the unit and it was quite warm (hot).
1) Do you think the heat triggered the shutdown?
2) What else could cause it?
3) How does have 3 pairs of speakers wired up to it affect / stress the receiver?
4) Should I purchase some sort of fan to blow air into (or out) of the receiver?
5) Any other thoughts or suggestions?