If your amp is bridged mono - I think the DTS-10 with the drivers wired parallel might be too low of an impedance load for your amp.
You have a cabinet that is a highly reactive load, it has several impedance minima below 3 ohms, and they happen to fall where there is significant program content. The DTS-10s impedance is below 4 ohms from the high 20s to approximately 40 Hz. It dips below 4 ohms again from 60 to 80 Hz. Your amp will run a 4-ohm load mono. It will struggle with lower impedance loads, especially if you listen loud.
According to Chuck's testing, the EP2500 (precursor to your amp) blew fuses and otherwise struggled when tested at high power into 4 ohms when bridged. The DTS-10 dips at least 35% lower than that, and it is reactive, not resistive. Also, it sounds like you like to listen loud. Might be reaching the limits of the amp...hence the clip indicators lighting up.
An EP will run a 2-ohm stereo load all day long though, so give the amp a load it can work with. The difference between 1000 watts and 2000 watts is only 3 dB, and you're clearly not getting 2000 watts out of your amp currently. 1000 clean watts (in reality - it will be a touch lower because the impedance is not 2 ohms) should drive a DTS north of 115 dB, in a 1 meter, groundplane setting.
In all honesty - voltage is what drives speakers, wattage just drives the sales of amplifiers, but that's the topic of another rant.
Run the cabinet on one side of the amp in stereo mode. In other words, un-bridge it, and leave the other channel unconnected, gain at 0, see if that helps things.
Yes - it will cut the wattage available, but your amp is not delivering the wattage you want right now anyhow. Let the amp work with a load it can drive, it will sound lots better. Since you're halving the current demands on the amp, it can better deliver the voltage required. This should cut the "clipping" you're experiencing and allow your amp to actually deliver more clean power, and you might just get better SPLs.
You have a cabinet that is a highly reactive load, it has several impedance minima below 3 ohms, and they happen to fall where there is significant program content. The DTS-10s impedance is below 4 ohms from the high 20s to approximately 40 Hz. It dips below 4 ohms again from 60 to 80 Hz. Your amp will run a 4-ohm load mono. It will struggle with lower impedance loads, especially if you listen loud.
According to Chuck's testing, the EP2500 (precursor to your amp) blew fuses and otherwise struggled when tested at high power into 4 ohms when bridged. The DTS-10 dips at least 35% lower than that, and it is reactive, not resistive. Also, it sounds like you like to listen loud. Might be reaching the limits of the amp...hence the clip indicators lighting up.
An EP will run a 2-ohm stereo load all day long though, so give the amp a load it can work with. The difference between 1000 watts and 2000 watts is only 3 dB, and you're clearly not getting 2000 watts out of your amp currently. 1000 clean watts (in reality - it will be a touch lower because the impedance is not 2 ohms) should drive a DTS north of 115 dB, in a 1 meter, groundplane setting.
In all honesty - voltage is what drives speakers, wattage just drives the sales of amplifiers, but that's the topic of another rant.
Run the cabinet on one side of the amp in stereo mode. In other words, un-bridge it, and leave the other channel unconnected, gain at 0, see if that helps things.
Yes - it will cut the wattage available, but your amp is not delivering the wattage you want right now anyhow. Let the amp work with a load it can drive, it will sound lots better. Since you're halving the current demands on the amp, it can better deliver the voltage required. This should cut the "clipping" you're experiencing and allow your amp to actually deliver more clean power, and you might just get better SPLs.
