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The "official" Yamaha RX-V671 thread. 7.1-Channel Network AVR - Page 31

post #901 of 2142
Hello,
I really am looking to get this AVR to replace an older Yamaha (HTR-5630) but I’m not sure I can satisfy one requirement. In the big picture my setup is pretty simple, the details as follows:

Inputs = DirecTV HD DVR, Sony Blu-ray DVD, AppleTV and a Wii (all are HDMI except the Wii)
Speakers = 5.1 (Wharfedale and Bose (yeah, I know)) and Stereo “B” speakers (Yamaha) on the deck

Now to my issue/concern, I use the deck speakers a LOT to listen to my iPod via the AppleTV. I currently just set the AVR to Stereo and switch the speakers to “B”. I am new to the whole “Zone” thing so excuse my ignorance. From what I read I can’t use a HDMI source (aka AppleTV) for Zone2. Is there are way to get my AppleTV HDMI source going to the deck speakers either via a “Zone” or “B Speakers” scenario?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
post #902 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckp View Post

From what I read I can't use a HDMI source (aka AppleTV) for Zone2. Is there are way to get my AppleTV HDMI source going to the deck speakers either via a Zone or B Speakers scenario?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

If the source has both HDMI and analog stereo outputs, you can connect both to the AVR.
post #903 of 2142
AppleTV is HDMI only. I want to know is there a way to send that audio to a second set of stereo only speakers.
post #904 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckp View Post

AppleTV is HDMI only. I want to know is there a way to send that audio to a second set of stereo only speakers.

Hi beckp, Optical Toslink to R/L Stereo Audio Converter.
post #905 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi beckp, Optical Toslink to R/L Stereo Audio Converter.

I just came back to post if something like the would work:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage

Or even use a HDMI splitter in front of this. HDMI to AVR for AppleTV video and Component to AVR for audio only.
post #906 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi beckp, Optical Toslink to R/L Stereo Audio Converter.

That looks like a better solution as long as the AppleTV will still send full audio/video out it's HDMI output as well as audio only from it's optical output.
post #907 of 2142
I am using a wired router and not wireless, i am trying to access hulu from the 671, whichi was told i would be able to do.

I don't get any video on the screen nor do i know how to access it, help......

I do get the controls on my pc but it seems like i need to get a mac address from somewhere.
post #908 of 2142
I recently upgraded, over the holidays, from a Yamaha RXV-3800, which gave up the ghost, to an RX-V671. During set up, I upgraded the firmware.

Really liked the receiver until I noticed that Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio no longer worked. I had a Sony BDP-S350 plugged into the RXV-3800 via HDMI, working like a champ, not only True HD and Master, but also successfully played a relatively rare 96MGHZ Audio BD- Queen Live in Montreal. In all three cases, the appropriate lights / info screens showed the lossless formats both the on the Yamaha and the Sony with very high bit rates.

Long story short, I cannot get anything from exactly the same BD, no settings changed, with the RX-V671- all PCM. To add insult to injury, I just bought a Sony BDP-S580 for a different TV. Yes, turned off the BD / audio mix. Exactly the same problem with the Yamaha.

Troubleshooting, I tried a different cable, and four different lossless BD's- Cars, Up!, 300, and Avatar, all with the high def, lossless format turned on in options. In each case, pressing display showed onscreen the BD reading the lossless formats as the movies played.

In desperation this morning, I turned off Cinema DSP, 3D Cinema DSP, and went into the advanced settings and turned off mon.chk, in case it was a synching problem.

One note- when I flip the BD between Lossless and PCM during play, there is a several second pause before the Yahama receiver begins to play again, every time PCM, as it decides what to do with the input. I have never seen the lossless formats light up on the Yamaha, even for split second.

Should I just send back the new Sony BD and get a Yamaha BD? Am I missing something basic? Thanks in advance for advice.

Ian
post #909 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by iandrysdale View Post

I recently upgraded, over the holidays, from a Yamaha RXV-3800, which gave up the ghost, to an RX-V671. During set up, I upgraded the firmware.

Really liked the receiver until I noticed that Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio no longer worked. I had a Sony BDP-S350 plugged into the RXV-3800 via HDMI, working like a champ, not only True HD and Master, but also successfully played a relatively rare 96MGHZ Audio BD- Queen Live in Montreal. In all three cases, the appropriate lights / info screens showed the lossless formats both the on the Yamaha and the Sony with very high bit rates.

Long story short, I cannot get anything from exactly the same BD, no settings changed, with the RX-V671- all PCM. To add insult to injury, I just bought a Sony BDP-S580 for a different TV. Yes, turned off the BD / audio mix. Exactly the same problem with the Yamaha.

Troubleshooting, I tried a different cable, and four different lossless BD's- Cars, Up!, 300, and Avatar, all with the high def, lossless format turned on in options. In each case, pressing display showed onscreen the BD reading the lossless formats as the movies played.

In desperation this morning, I turned off Cinema DSP, 3D Cinema DSP, and went into the advanced settings and turned off mon.chk, in case it was a synching problem.

One note- when I flip the BD between Lossless and PCM during play, there is a several second pause before the Yahama receiver begins to play again, every time PCM, as it decides what to do with the input. I have never seen the lossless formats light up on the Yamaha, even for split second.

Should I just send back the new Sony BD and get a Yamaha BD? Am I missing something basic? Thanks in advance for advice.

Ian

Ensure the BD player is set to "bitstream" mode and disengage any secondary audio feature it might have. During playback, press the "straight" button on the AVR's remote. Press the "info" button several times to display information on the AVR's display panel.
post #910 of 2142
It is probably a 'noob' question (I could not find my exact problem discussed in the forum though, hopefully I did not miss it), but is the receiver supposed to 'click' (same click as when powering on/off) when I switch DSP mode, or when I start a movie with DTS soundtrack.

Here is a more detailed description of the issue:
* clicking occurs when listening to any type of audio (tested sources: Pandora, Radio Tuner, internet radio, video through HDMI) and switching from one set of DSP to another, namely from/to set1 = [Surround Decoder, 2ch Stereo, 7ch Stereo, Sraight] to/from set2 = [Hall in Munich, Hall in Vienna Chamber, Cellar Club, The Roxy Theatre, The Bottom Line, Sports, Action Game, Roleplaying Game, Music Video, Standard, Spectacle, Sci-Fi, Adventure, Drama, Mono Movie]. Switching DSP mode inside one of the sets does not trigger the clicking noise.
* clicking noises occur when switching input (eg. from Pandora to HDMI 1) when in one of the DSP modes of set2. It does not click when switching input while DSP is in one of the set1
* now for the most anoying symptoms => clicking noise occurs when watching a movie (HDMI1) with DTS sountrack when starting/stopping the movie, skipping forward/backward in the movie. What seems to happen is that for each of these action, the decoder switches from PCM audio to DTS, and that triggers the click (oh, and DSP has to be in one of set2). However, watching a movie with DD 5.1 track does not trigger the clicking, even with DSP in one of set2.

It sounds that when the receiver switches to certain DSP modes with certain types of audio, some circuitry is triggered and makes that clicking sound. I would like to know if that is the normal operating mode of the reciever, or if there is a chance that it is defective. I am still in the time period when I can easily return or exchange the receiver at the store where I bought it, therefore I would greatly appreciate if other owners could chime in with their own experience!

Cheers.
post #911 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoboy View Post

Did you have a budget in mind?

Check the website Techbargins for good deals.
also the website Bountii is great for finding the best prices.[/QUOTE

A budget of less than $1000 is what I am working with. The only thing I think I'm sure of is that I want floor standing speakers for my FL and FR. Outside of that I am open to anything. I have looked at the Jamos that someone suggested and found a 5 piece speaker set for less than $500. That is without a sub, but I probably wanted to purchase a sub separately anyway.

Yeah, I can't speak for the Jamo combo sets other than they receive good reviews & seem a bit better than Polk sets in the same price range. I bought the Jamo concert series speakers that ran around $1800 for the 7, over your budget, & mine for that matter but I wanted a solid mid range system so I payed the price.

Also in reference to my "W-1 out of phase" on FL & FR I found this:
"One thing you'll notice with YPAO, and any other automated setup for that matter, is that sometimes you will get false "out of phase" messages. Out of phase means that a speaker is not in sync, and likely has the polarity reversed on the speaker connections.

If you get this message, manually check that you have everything connected correctly. If you do, and you're still getting an out of phase message, it may be due to the fact that some speaker manufacturers force phasing changes because they believe it helps the quality of the sound delivered by their speakers."

http://www.justweb.com.au/review/rx-a3000-yamaha.html

I think I may have to contact Jamo to see if they use force phasing & what they have to say about the issue.
post #912 of 2142
Thanks for the response:

Figured it out, a little obscure: most people with this problem had the BD Audio Mix Setting, generally the culprit per other messages / Google searches, On instead of Off. Not in this case.

A setting called "Audio DRC" cannot be set to Off (where I had it in an attempt to send out an unaltered signal) or On, must be set to Auto. How the heck most consumers would figure that out is beyond me.

(Sony, if you are listening, you need a Bitstream toggle, that automatically throws any other toggle that causes an issue... would reduce your help desk cost of nothing else.)

Ian
post #913 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckp View Post

That looks like a better solution as long as the AppleTV will still send full audio/video out it's HDMI output as well as audio only from it's optical output.

It will output HDMI & Optical at the same time.
post #914 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckp View Post

AppleTV is HDMI only. I want to know is there a way to send that audio to a second set of stereo only speakers.

Apple TV is equipped with both HDMI and Optical.
post #915 of 2142
Is there a way to get say Netflix app or shortcut like the ones that come with unit (rhapsody, Napster, Pandora and the internet radio ones)?
post #916 of 2142
Optical out on apple tv will not work on zone 2, analog only, (no hdmi or optical inputs) but you can listen to material from Ethernet on zone 2 ( like pandora or pc with iTunes)
post #917 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by wthomas69 View Post

Optical out on apple tv will not work on zone 2, analog only, (no hdmi or optical inputs) but you can listen to material from Ethernet on zone 2 ( like pandora or pc with iTunes)

I'll get this, then it will work. Thanks to all and thier help!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
post #918 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

It will output HDMI & Optical at the same time.

Thanks, with the adapter I'll be all set.
post #919 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1111111 View Post

Is there a way to get say Netflix app or shortcut like the ones that come with unit (rhapsody, Napster, Pandora and the internet radio ones)?

You can get an AppleTV and it will add Netflix and AirPlay.
post #920 of 2142
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbottom View Post

I'd like to know why you think auto setup can do it better than that?

If you are only doing distance and broadband level, your method will work. However, an AVR using YPAO with even the simplest EQ is far, far superior! Those using PEQ are untouchable.

PS. As you are posting in this thread, one can infer the YPAO we are dealing with has the more powerful PEQ! But, yes, some low end units do not have that facility.
post #921 of 2142
Hi guys, I need a little help here. I've got RX-V761 few days ago. The sound from digital sources is amazing. However when playing my CD collection from my CD changer connected to A1 input, the sound is a bit flat and lacks punch. I have Onkyo 709 sitting next to the Yamaha and in comparison, it sounds fantastic with that source. I really like the Yamaha but this is killing me. I need to decide which one to keep. I've played with PEQ and other settings and it seems I just can't get it right. I am running Polk TSi400 for fronts, and CS10 for center. Any suggestions.

Thanks,
Nick
post #922 of 2142
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikivan View Post

my CD changer connected to A1 input, the sound is a bit flat and lacks punch.

What is "A1" input? It would be mildly helpful if you would describe your setup with a little more precision.
Quote:


I've played with PEQ

Utter waste of time. How will playing with the system-wide PEQ settings improve your CD sound if you already believe your digital sources "are amazing"??
post #923 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

What is "A1" input? It would be mildly helpful if you would describe your setup with a little more precision.Utter waste of time. How will playing with the system-wide PEQ settings improve your CD sound if you already believe your digital sources "are amazing"??

A1 stands for Analogue 1 input. Yeah, here is the thing, I don't know the unit at all and this is why I am asking for help. Do you know anyone in Vancouver who can help me without making me feel like a complete idiot?
post #924 of 2142
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikivan View Post

A1 stands for Analogue 1 input.

OK, so I'll assume you are using the "Audio 1" input. What are your other settings? is it set to "Straight" or are you using a sound program? Have you set the main speaker size to "small" so that the sub-woofer is active on the analog two channel input? Have you tried "Pure Direct"?

You haven't given us any information how it is setup! We (I) can't help you unless you adequately describe the issue.

There no reason on earth why an analog CD input is going to sound any different on one AVR versus another! if you are getting a difference it will solely be in your hookup/settings.
post #925 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

OK, so I'll assume you are using the "Audio 1" input. What are your other settings? is it set to "Straight" or are you using a sound program? Have you set the main speaker size to "small" so that the sub-woofer is active on the analog two channel input? Have you tried "Pure Direct"?

You haven't given us any information how it is setup! We (I) can't help you unless you adequately describe the issue.

There no reason on earth why an analog CD input is going to sound any different on one AVR versus another! if you are getting a difference it will solely be in your hookup/settings.

The program I'd like to use is Stereo 2ch (so I can take advantage of calibration settings). I've tried all other programs including Straight and Pure Direct. The last one sounds best to my ears. I don't use SW and the speakers are set to large.
post #926 of 2142
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaalahaad View Post

[.;.] is the receiver supposed to 'click' (same click as when powering on/off) when I switch DSP mode, or when I start a movie with DTS soundtrack. [...]

It sounds that when the receiver switches to certain DSP modes with certain types of audio, some circuitry is triggered and makes that clicking sound. I would like to know if that is the normal operating mode of the reciever, or if there is a chance that it is defective.[...]

Cheers.

Bump.

Can anyone using the receiver comment on this? Thanks in advance for your help.
post #927 of 2142
I am having a strange issue.
When the connected TV is turned on, the receiver stops taking inputs from the remote for about 60 seconds. The buttons on the receiver itself still work, but it stops changing sources or volume levels from the remote. If I turn the tv on before the receiver, the remote will not even turn on the receiver for the ~60 second time period.

I had the remote programed for the TV (Samsung connected with HDMI), but have since cleared the codes. I tried every setting i could find in the receiver, and eventually did a reset on that as well. I tried multiple HDMI cables on both inputs to the TV, i made sure anynet was disabled. I have tried all options I know if except rolling back the firmware, which I will try tonight, and a different TV, which will be more difficult.

In short, as soon as "out" lights up on the receiver, remote doesn't work for 1 minute. Edit: I am on 1.18 as well, cannot directly relate the firmware upgrades to the issue.

This is frustrating to say the least, and I did change the batteries.
post #928 of 2142
I have a RX-V671 and it works really well, well at least everything except the Internet Radio portion.

I have a wireless router and have purchased a wireless extender (NetGear WN2000RPT) due to the fact that Yamaha does not have a internal wireless receiver. I have connected my extender to the RX-V671 using a CAT5 cable and it gives me an IP address as expected. All features are available, I can browse the Yamaha Control panel, I can play media from my PC as well as my iPhone and Android phone, but when I go to the Internet Radio input, all I get is a message saying "Not Connected". I have checked that all firewalls are disabled on my routers, with no luck. I have attached my laptop to the same CAT5 cable and I have unrestricted internet access.

Is there anybody that have experienced something similar? And if so, can you tell me how it was resolved?

Thanks in advance
post #929 of 2142
I just purchased replacement speakers for use with my RX-V671, and am in the process of upgrading my entire system. I decided to go with Polk Monitor 60's series II floorstanding speakers for my front left and right channels. I also purchased the Polk CS2 for the center channel. I got the three speakers for $300 from NewEgg.com. Seemed like a price I could not pass up, and have not received the speakers yet, but I am having a little remorse. Was this a good purchase to go along with my new Yamaha? I am pretty keen on the video side of A/V systems, but not so much with audio as I had been running an Onkyo theater in a box for almost the last 10 years. I am not sure if my watts per channel with go with the speakers I chose and there is a lot of talk about bi-amping the monitor 60's for a better sound which I have no idea what that means except the RX-V671 is capable of bi-amp output. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
post #930 of 2142
Thread Starter 
Don't worry about it. "Biamping/biwiring" speakers with passive crossovers isn't worth the bytes required to comment on it!! Plaebo effect for the ignorant.
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