Official LG xxLK520 xxLK450 - Page 80

Here is a more in depth version of your panel. The page you linked to was mostly vendor information. You have a S-IPS panel that has a pretty high brightness and decent contrast ratio (decent for IPS). It also has 16 lamps and on paper (taking the other panel specs into account) looks like a pretty solid *edit* EEFL panel.

Looks like we all have the same S-IPS panel on our 42LK450s.

technically EEFL, which is better as it runs much cooler than CCFL

Yea I just now caught that. Thanks for the correction.

Awesome! Does this mean I can use your values settings values? I lost my DVE disc and sorta broke at the moment and it would be great if I could. I saw the recent ones you posted had the picture setting as "night", my TV does not have night as an option.

Well, the factory w/b settings stored on the main board (internal settings found within the service menu) will likely be different meaning my TV will measure differently pre-calibration than yours (probably) and so copying settings is unreliable. Also, other parts in the TV can vary and even having the same panel doesn't mean it will be 100% identical in terms of measurements.

Short answer: You can try if you want, but in reality you'd be better served by using a setup disc to calibrate all the basic picture settings and leave the grayscale/gamma/cms controls at defaults. Good discs include the free AVS disc, Disney WOW Blu-ray, Spears & Munsil Blu-ray, and DVE Blu-ray. I just ordered the Disney disc yesterday and will be getting it this week. And I having been using the free AVS disc for a long time.

Maybe for post 2010 models. I know for sure that I have an S-IPS but it may be a bit more difficult to tell on the 2011s and 2012s. Besides, I'd have to move my LG off of the media console to look thru the ventilation slots in the back and I'm not about to do that because there really isn't a reason for me to do so It's still just easier to do the loupe test.

^^^ agreed. Even with the tight QC mfr tolerances for the components, there's still enough variability overall to make Plasma's settings look like doo-doo on your set. But it doesn't hurt to try. At the very least you'll get used to using your control settings and see how they interact with each other.

Sounds like it is similar to lk520.

Thanks,you might of saved me a lot of hassle,time,energy.Just haven't decided what tv to try next.

I also use MPC HCE and the output rendering is set as 0-255.
Since I couldnt find any settings in AMD control panel I uninstalled AMD drivers but still it was the same. So the only possibility is some windows settings. Anyway my PC is calibrated to lagom.

I like the black level as low. But when I set as low both the white clipping and black clipping videos are not flashing at all. When I set as high atleast 16-255 works. But black level as low looks better for me. Should I stick with low or high?

It depends on what Direct Show Video output you are using in MPC HCE. 16-255 on MPC HCE is acting like 0-255 and vice versa for some reason so I had to go in and lower the contrast, brightness, and saturation in the Miscellaneous section of MPC HCE but it's likely because I am using EVR custom. I haven't really looked at any of my PC settings though since I got this rig back together.

If you're talking about on the TV, use whatever looks better. I had to use "high" on the 32CS560 when using a DVD player and low when watching video on the backup PC I was on. That PC wouldn't let me switch to 16-235 in MPC HCE though and I never did figure out why I had to run 0-255 on a DVD player signal but low would destroy the picture on the that signal on the 32CS560.

EDIT: Chad B was in the area and offered to re-calibrate my set as a good will gesture. He used his Jeti 1211 reference spectro for the majority of the calibration and then created a profile for my C6 and used it to set grayscale and gamma at the 10% and 20% steps. The CMS worked ideally at 75% sat, 100% stim and very minimal changes were made to the main color control and to the CMS (one click differences in a few settings).

The C6 wasn't too accurate on its own, since it left behind a grayscale that was too warm, and dEUV was a steady 5 above 30% gray.

The advanced color management report is from ChromaPure and was taken with the Jeti and 100% stim patterns were used for the saturation sweep. The image is the CalMAN post-cal data taken with my profiled C6. I won't be posting my new settings since he prefers I don't.

The main thing I took away from the pre-cal readings with the Jeti (which I don't have a copy of unfortunately) was that my C6 is next to useless on it's own when doing grayscale (color). It is pretty good for gamma and decent for gamut but not for white balance. You really need to profile a colorimeter with a spectro to get meaningful results, regardless of the price of the colorimeter or whether it's the standard or enhanced version.

 

C6 2.2.pdf 95.296875k . file

 

QuickView Grayscale.pdf 29.3037109375k . file

 

QuickView Gamut.pdf 160.3134765625k . file

 

AdvancedColorManagementReport LG Lcd.pdf 465.7548828125k . file

I've owned a LG 42LK450 for ten months now and overall I'm happy with it, it has an IPS screen and viewing off-axis is excellent. It has accurate color and displays 24p perfectly however it suffers from DSE, when I put up a white or gray image it looks dirty around the edges. I used the AVS 709 calibration disc and I attached my settings. I don't have a colorimeter so I left the IRE settings to default. One thing to note: the built-in blue filter gives slightly different readings than a hand held blue filter, I used the built-in filter.

 

LG 42LK450.txt 0.3837890625k . file

There are lots of different kinds of blue filters with some being more accurate as far as color rendering than others. I found it best to use the built-in filters on the LG to give me better, and more accurate color performance. It just made more sense to me to use what the LG is displaying as far as the filters go than to use a hand-held filter that may or may not be accurate. It's also a lot easier to view the test patterns with just the entire screen blue and make the necessary adjustments than having your entire field of view blue.

Got my DVI-HDMI cable today... gives a "connecting... No Signal"
yet my DVI-VGA works fine.

ehhh is there a setting somewhere? already labeled it PC didn't change anything. Nvidia card.

No, there isn't any setting you need to use to get a signal. Have you tried restarting or shutting it down then using the DVI>HDMI cable and turning the PC back on?

Does your videocard support HDCP?
HDMI is digital so your TV requires HDCP while VGA doesn't.

I was looking at the sharpness pattern on the Disney WOW Blu-ray Disc and noticed that H Sharpness doesn't add any edge enhancement even at 100/100. If you turn it very low, however, it will blur the image. V Sharpness works as expected, adding edge enhancement past 50 and blurring the image below 50 (though it's hard to find an exact value for the setting and so I just leave it at the default of 50 which is about right).

The 32CS560 was the same way. I used the Lagom sharpness test to set the sharpness on the 32CS560 which worked out pretty well since it matched the gamma the sharpness setting changed to the gamma of the circle in that test pattern.

Can we use 'Inner' Patterns in expert mode to do grayscale calibration? Are they reliable or AVSHD 709 is good enough.

noope! What else do I need to look for if I buy another card? What A LOAD OF SH!t

Actually the card supports it but it says not supported on the nvidia control panel

I've run into that before but it's always corrected itself or got corrected by uninstalling the monitor/TV, and so on. I've never had the signal refuse to output though. What card is it and what driver are you on?

Gts 250, il try updating it later today.

Sure ...


... OTOH, you might miss something in the signal path by using the inner-patterns (which is less likely in the digital HDMI age than it once was.)

If one wanted to be sure, one could use the inner patterns to calibrate and then do a verification a run through the greyscale using an external source.

updated to 296.10, didn't matter. probably a windows issue like always.
says my display is an analog display now and I don't see anymore where it said not HDPC.

Yea not sure what the deal is. I use driver 275.33 and I don't plan on going past that until they fix their drivers. I'll likely migrate to AMD/ATi before that happens though. I have nothing against Nvidia but I refuse to pay huge sums of money for a video card as they become rapidly outdated. It's just a matter of being able to get more performance out of AMD/ATi in the pricing tier I am willing to participate in.

Back to the point though, I don't know why your card is having issues. I've had the NVC randomly tell me that my 9500GT isn't HDCP but, it always put out a picture including DVD content. I always chalked it up to a glitch in the Nvidia driver (and possibly the monitor/TV driver when a TV was in use).

You may want to try this Nvidia uninstall procedure and see if that will clear it up. If it doesn't it's likely the card or something at the OS level.

yeah thats annoying, it even says HDCP ready in the product info
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130538
unless ready means it requires other stuff to make it work

It shouldn't as that is a significantly newer card than the 9500GT is and I've never seen anything that's HDCP require anything else. Have you tried HDMI>HDMI to make sure it's not something with the DVI port or cable?

Thanks. I used inner patterns to show LG technican guy who came to my house today that Warmer Tone is almost 9500K ( If you read some of my posts above, you'll understand). Well, he doesn't know much about factory calibration, so he said he 'll give me an answer later.

No, HDCP doesn't work that way. Only the source requires HDCP, if the source doesn't require it then the TV will work fine with out it.

If the video card doesn't support HDCP you'll only get a problem when trying to play protected content on the PC that requires HDCP. The video player application will simply refuse to play such content.

As you've figured out already, 00firebird, the problem is very unlikely to be related to HDCP. As a simple test, try rebooting your PC with the TV being the *only* thing connected to the video card and only through a single cable. Remove your old "DVI to VGA" cable if its still connected and if you have a regular PC monitor or another TV attached to your PC, disconnect it as well.

If when you reboot the PC with only the TV connected, you can then see all the normal BIOS boot screens on the TV as well Windows when it finally boots up then the probably ran into one of the following problems:

1. The TV, intedned to be a primary display, was assigned by Windows to be secondary display and disabled.
2. The TV, intended to be second display, wasn't enabled in Windows.
3. The TV was enabled as a display, but configured to use a resolution that the TV doesn't support.
4. You had more than two displays connected to your video card at one time. Even if your video card has more than two connectors on the back it can only drive at most two of them at the same time. (DisplayPort is a possible exception.)

If it's first problem, then leaving the TV as the only thing connected should solve the problem.

If it's the second or third problem then it can be solved by reconfiguring Windows. Reconnect the display you intend to use as the primary monitor and reboot. If you're using Windows 7, right click on the desktop background and select Screen Resolution from the menu. On line marked "Multiple Displays" choose "Extend these displays" (if necessary). On line the marked "Display" choose "LG TV" or whatever appears to be your TV. It may be number 1 or 2 on the list. Then (if necessary) change the resolution to "1920x1080".

If it's the last problem then the simple solution is to only connect two displays at once. Otherwise you can use the Screen Resolution control panel described above to select which two displays you want to the video card to use.

If when you reboot the PC with only the TV connected you see the BIOS start up screens but nothing when Windows starts then it may be that Windows is trying to use a resolution that the TV doesn't support over HDMI. Try booting Windows in safe mode and see if that works.

If you can't even see the boot screens on your TV then it's probably a broken cable or something else hardware related.