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Official LG xxLK520 xxLK450 - Page 82

post #2431 of 2827
4/10/12 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

hdmi-hdmi works and brings up alot more settings, but it looks kind of terrible. under display it shows LG TV now too. i can also select just scan among alot of other things. i think it has more to do with the TV being friendlier to changing settings on an hdmi input. what settings should I try changing now? the default picture settings on the tv? or some of the ones on windows.

DVI>HDMI shouldn't have an issue with having available settings on this TV. It's not unusual to see a TV lockout a lot of the settings on a DVI>HDMI signal because those TVs see it as a PC signal hence the lockout. That's one area where the LK450 line stands above other offerings. Given that you can not get a signal on that connection though, something is wrong with the cable, the DVI port, or the driver.

As far as HDMI>HDMI goes, it's going to be rough getting it to look any better. You're seeing first hand why 4:4:4 is important. Start with your TV menu before you start messing with the video card's control panel though. I've never heard about anyone getting suitable results over HDMI>HDMI though which is why everyone runs 4:4:4 over DVI>HDMI or, uses VGA as a last resort. I would advise trying to troubleshoot why you are having issues with a DVI>HDMI connection as I haven't seen anyone else run into your issue.
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post #2432 of 2827
4/10/12 at 11:19am
yeah i have no idea. the white levels and the pixelation of letters seem to look a bit worse on hdmi-hdmi, but the colors are much better on hdmi-hdmi than dvi-vga.

first one is hdmi-hdmi.

resolution changed to 1920x1200 on the vga for some reason but that does look better to me too.
LL
LL
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post #2433 of 2827
4/10/12 at 11:31am
The text looks worse because 4:2:2 doesn't subsample it properly like 4:4:4 does. When you have 4:4:4 enabled the text will match or exceed what you see on a VGA signal as VGA is 4:4:4 but analogue.

Both the TV menu settings and possibly your video card's control panel settings will be different for VGA and HDMI though. The TV menu settings are different because they are set different at the factory and in the firmware. The video card control panel settings may be different because it effectively sees it as a different display rather than the same one. There isn't a lot you can do to improve text quality on HDM>HDMI short of enabling 4:4:4 and no one has managed to that yet on a LK450.

There is no reason that 1920x1200 should look better than 1920x1080 though on the VGA signal. If text looks better it's likely an issue with ClearType because the 1920x1200 resolution is being interpolated while the 1920x1080 resolution is native. Native will/should always look better.
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post #2434 of 2827
4/10/12 at 1:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

do you have the IPS panel? my settings look kinda different

I think so, the panel says LC420WUE and the model number on the set is 42LK450-UB.CUSY LH.
I used the AVS 709 disc to calibrate and for my room conditions it looks good, I don't like warm color temp but I do like a little edge enhancement.
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post #2435 of 2827
4/10/12 at 5:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

hdmi-hdmi works and brings up alot more settings, but it looks kind of terrible. under display it shows LG TV now too. i can also select just scan among alot of other things. i think it has more to do with the TV being friendlier to changing settings on an hdmi input. what settings should I try changing now? the default picture settings on the tv? or some of the ones on windows.

Labeling the HDMI input I've got my computer connected to as "PC" gave me 4:4:4 chroma over an HDMI to HDMI cable, exactly the same as what I see with a DVI to HDMI cable. I had to use Colmino's modified Belle-Nuit test chart to see the difference though.

Note there are two parts to getting 4:4:4 chroma. First your video card must transmit using a 4:4:4 pixel format, and second your display must not transform its input into 4:2:2 in order to do processing on it. With my ATI card I can just go into the Catalyst Control Center and tell it to use the RGB 4:4:4 pixel format, but I'm not sure if NVIDIA has the equivlent. I guess that's what the EDID override is for. Labelling the input as PC on my LG 42LK450 stopped the TV from transforming the pixels into 4:2:2.

Using a DVI to HDMI cable seems to make this easier, tricking the video card and/or TV into using 4:4:4 because DVI only supports one pixel format RGB, but it doesn't seem to be necessary. At least not in my case.

I've put up a couple of pictures on my WWW site if you want to see what using a HDMI to HDMI cable and a DVI to HDMI cable now look like on my TV.

By the way, if you aren't running the display at its native resolution (1920x1080), with 1:1 pixel mapping (Just Scan) and 4:4:4 colour then you probably want to turn off ClearType. It's designed smooth fonts using sub-pixel anti-aliasing. The means that it tries to use the relative positions of the red, green, and blue LCD elements that make up a single pixel. If it can't get precise control of each pixel then it doesn't work right.

If you do manage to get all that, native resolution, Just Scan, and 4:4:4 colour then you should go through the ClearType calibration process. There's many different ways an LCD panel can arrange it individual colour elements, the calibration process tells Windows which arrangement your display is actually using. Otherwise it uses a default which is usually correct for LCD monitors, but less likely for LCD TVs.
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post #2436 of 2827
4/10/12 at 11:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

losing 25% of light output after about 2500 hours is a bit disappointing, given that the EEFL backlight on this set is rated at 60,000 hours under typical usage.

Was the meter and display warmed up together for at least one hour? I find my C6 needs a proper warm-up to read Y correctly and even after warm-up it will read Y higher on a hotter day than on a cooler day by a couple fL per couple of degrees Fahrenheit.

1) It's not as bad as it sounds. In fact, you'd probably wouldn't notice the difference unless you flipped back and forth between exp1 (original run) and exp2 (current run.) There's still plenty of light output. I suspect it'll start leveling off. The good news is that the black level dropped by the same % ... at least until I re-calibrated.

2) Everything was well warmed by the final pass and the i1d2 seems to pretty stable and repeatable on (this) LCD.

3) There is also the chance that I might have dropped the BL down after I did my initial run's and file saves ... although, I'm pretty sure I had settled on 30 before I started fooling around with the CMS. All of those CMS workfiles had white @ ~100Nits too ...

4) It was the onset of icky-green that got my attention, not the light output ...
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post #2437 of 2827
4/11/12 at 9:56am
So what with the chatter about the new CS series being downgraded with features and inputs, I've been toying with getting a 47LK520.

I can get an off shelf demo unit with about 7700+ hours on it ( verified in Option menu) for $650 plus tax. Which is about right since the product label shows March 2011 for a make date which amounts to about 325 days of 24/7 use.

The good news is. . . it is an AUSYLR S-IPS panel and I got to play with the menu and go through some initial rough settings. Went into the 10 Point and displayed all the fields to check for DSE and lighting looks very uniform with no clouding, flashlighting, or smeary "dirty" looking areas. It sure looks much better in the store than the Samsung with the glaring shiny screen next to it.

So there is the glass half full or half empty view on this. It has operated for nigh on a year with no issues. . . so burned in. OTOH. . . based on the previous post or two, the back light may now have accelerated decrepitude(13% of EEFL back light life used) and not be as bright. My 20 month old 42LD550 has about 3100 hours on it and I have no "green tint" and only about 14% less light output based on what I measured in March 2011 on my benchmark Expert2. As a comparison, my 2007 Mitsubishi LT-46231 only measures about 18% less light than when new and has leveled off the last 3 years with little measurable loss of output at the same back light setting of 9 (0 - 63). Also wondering about these orange, red or green tints LK models seem to have on some TVs?

I feel the market has now reached a peak, if you will, on TVs like the LD and LK series which offered better than average features for a mid priced TV. Similar to in the past when VCR quality peaked and then cheaper and cheaper quality and features occurred. What we could get for $500 to $1,000 in quality in 2010-11 now may cost $700 to $1,500 or more and also have LED screen issues.

So. . .. what to do...
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post #2438 of 2827
4/11/12 at 10:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

So what with the chatter about the new CS series being downgraded with features and inputs, I've been toying with getting a 47LK520.

I can get an off shelf demo unit with about 7700+ hours on it ( verified in Option menu) for $650 plus tax. Which is about right since the product label shows March 2011 for a make date which amounts to about 325 days of 24/7 use.

The good news is. . . it is an AUSYLR S-IPS panel and I got to play with the menu and go through some initial rough settings. Went into the 10 Point and displayed all the fields to check for DSE and lighting looks very uniform with no clouding, flashlighting, or smeary "dirty" looking areas. It sure looks much better in the store than the Samsung with the glaring shiny screen next to it.

So there is the glass half full or half empty view on this. It has operated for nigh on a year with no issues. . . so burned in. OTOH. . . based on the previous post or two, the back light may now have accelerated decrepitude(13% of EEFL back light life used) and not be as bright. My 20 month old 42LD550 has about 3100 hours on it and I have no "green tint" and only about 14% less light output based on what I measured in March 2011 on my benchmark Expert2. As a comparison, my 2007 Mitsubishi LT-46231 only measures about 18% less light than when new and has leveled off the last 3 years with little measurable loss of output at the same back light setting of 9 (0 - 63). Also wondering about these orange, red or green tints LK models seem to have on some TVs?

I feel the market has now reached a peak, if you will, on TVs like the LD and LK series which offered better than average features for a mid priced TV. Similar to in the past when VCR quality peaked and then cheaper and cheaper quality and features occurred. What we could get for $500 to $1,000 in quality in 2010-11 now may cost $700 to $1,500 or more and also have LED screen issues.

So. . .. what to do...

If it has been running in Vivid/Store mode with backlight at max for 7700+ hours, then the lifespan of the backlight might be reduced considerably more than if it was used for the same number of hours at home in a calibrated state with backlight under 50% or so.
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post #2439 of 2827
4/11/12 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

1) It's not as bad as it sounds. In fact, you'd probably wouldn't notice the difference unless you flipped back and forth between exp1 (original run) and exp2 (current run.) There's still plenty of light output. I suspect it'll start leveling off. The good news is that the black level dropped by the same % ... at least until I re-calibrated.

2) Everything was well warmed by the final pass and the i1d2 seems to pretty stable and repeatable on (this) LCD.

3) There is also the chance that I might have dropped the BL down after I did my initial run's and file saves ... although, I'm pretty sure I had settled on 30 before I started fooling around with the CMS. All of those CMS workfiles had white @ ~100Nits too ...

4) It was the onset of icky-green that got my attention, not the light output ...

just to clarify, the green issue is a grayscale one?
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post #2440 of 2827
4/11/12 at 5:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

So what with the chatter about the new CS series being downgraded with features and inputs, I've been toying with getting a 47LK520.

I can get an off shelf demo unit with about 7700+ hours on it ( verified in Option menu) for $650 plus tax. Which is about right since the product label shows March 2011 for a make date which amounts to about 325 days of 24/7 use.

The good news is. . . it is an AUSYLR S-IPS panel and I got to play with the menu and go through some initial rough settings. Went into the 10 Point and displayed all the fields to check for DSE and lighting looks very uniform with no clouding, flashlighting, or smeary "dirty" looking areas. It sure looks much better in the store than the Samsung with the glaring shiny screen next to it.

So there is the glass half full or half empty view on this. It has operated for nigh on a year with no issues. . . so burned in. OTOH. . . based on the previous post or two, the back light may now have accelerated decrepitude(13% of EEFL back light life used) and not be as bright. My 20 month old 42LD550 has about 3100 hours on it and I have no "green tint" and only about 14% less light output based on what I measured in March 2011 on my benchmark Expert2. As a comparison, my 2007 Mitsubishi LT-46231 only measures about 18% less light than when new and has leveled off the last 3 years with little measurable loss of output at the same back light setting of 9 (0 - 63). Also wondering about these orange, red or green tints LK models seem to have on some TVs?

I feel the market has now reached a peak, if you will, on TVs like the LD and LK series which offered better than average features for a mid priced TV. Similar to in the past when VCR quality peaked and then cheaper and cheaper quality and features occurred. What we could get for $500 to $1,000 in quality in 2010-11 now may cost $700 to $1,500 or more and also have LED screen issues.

So. . .. what to do...

The LK series will likely be the last chance you will get to enjoy extensive picture controls, features, inputs and/or performance that was similar to the LD lineup. I think the CS series is sort of LG's way of easing away from CCFLs by stripping down the CS lineup to bare-bone features and/or functionality to yield more people over to their lower end LED lineup. IMO this may be a sign that CCFLs will be eliminated entirely from LGs TV lineup next year and they will focus exclusively on LEDs.
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post #2441 of 2827
4/11/12 at 5:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrix76 View Post

The LK series will likely be the last chance you will get to enjoy extensive picture controls, features, inputs and/or performance that was similar to the LD lineup. I think the CS series is sort of LG's way of easing away from CCFLs by stripping down the CS lineup to bare-bone features and/or functionality to yield more people over to their lower end LED lineup. IMO this may be a sign that CCFLs will be eliminated entirely from LGs TV lineup next year and they will focus exclusively on LEDs.

Yes, I agree. I was impressed with the 2010 LD models. They had essentially the same picture controls and features as their higher end models. But no more and so far I don't care for edge lit LED TVs. But I don;t really need another TV either.

Also, I actually have a personal practice of never buying a demo TV.... with so many hours on it.
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post #2442 of 2827
4/11/12 at 6:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrix76 View Post

The LK series will likely be the last chance you will get to enjoy extensive picture controls, features, inputs and/or performance that was similar to the LD lineup. I think the CS series is sort of LG's way of easing away from CCFLs by stripping down the CS lineup to bare-bone features and/or functionality to yield more people over to their lower end LED lineup. IMO this may be a sign that CCFLs will be eliminated entirely from LGs TV lineup next year and they will focus exclusively on LEDs.

I agree, it looks like this might be the last year for CCFL and 2011 might have been the last year for a quality CCFL. I really hope edge-lit LED-LCDs getter better and cheaper, to become a worthy successor to the best CCFL-LCDs that were made in recent years.
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post #2443 of 2827
4/11/12 at 8:58pm
Well I'm just glad that I bought my LD520 when I did. We've had it for about 16 months now and it looks as good as it did on day 1. And yes, the level of controls and features has been a very nice bonus, especially for the price that we paid at the time.
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post #2444 of 2827
4/12/12 at 4:45am
I'm on my 2nd 55LK520 (after returning my 1st for a big blob of DSE). This panel has a much more uniform backlight, much better light bleed than the 1st I returned. However I'm noticing the blacks are becoming washed out greys at different viewing angles. Anyone else experiencing this? And by different viewing angle I'm not talking a chair in the corner at 45 deg from the set. No, instead I'm talking about if I move one seat over on the couch and look at the other side of the TV set (ex: If i'm sitting directly in front of the right edge of the TV, the left side of the TV loses detail in dark scenes and the blacks look greyish). This problem seems even worse when I lay down on my couch and I'm looking up at the screen vertically by about a foot. I don't recall my first 55LK520 having this issue, but then again I was so blinded and upset with the bad DSE I may have missed it. Trying to decide if I exchange for another set or if I should just return and shop for a different model.

BTW I did verify that I indeed have >>>> cheveron pixels so I do have an IPS set
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post #2445 of 2827
4/12/12 at 10:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by djjaeger View Post

I'm on my 2nd 55LK520 (after returning my 1st for a big blob of DSE). This panel has a much more uniform backlight, much better light bleed than the 1st I returned. However I'm noticing the blacks are becoming washed out greys at different viewing angles. Anyone else experiencing this? And by different viewing angle I'm not talking a chair in the corner at 45 deg from the set. No, instead I'm talking about if I move one seat over on the couch and look at the other side of the TV set (ex: If i'm sitting directly in front of the right edge of the TV, the left side of the TV loses detail in dark scenes and the blacks look greyish). This problem seems even worse when I lay down on my couch and I'm looking up at the screen vertically by about a foot. I don't recall my first 55LK520 having this issue, but then again I was so blinded and upset with the bad DSE I may have missed it. Trying to decide if I exchange for another set or if I should just return and shop for a different model.

BTW I did verify that I indeed have >>>> cheveron pixels so I do have an IPS set

Be sure to view the set at eye level. The vertical viewing angle on the S-IPS is pretty poor on my 42LK450 as well. The horizontal viewing angle is quite good, however, with no color shift and the image only getting slightly dimmer at very wide angles.
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post #2446 of 2827
4/12/12 at 11:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

just to clarify, the green issue is a grayscale one?

Good question

As of this morning, I'm not entirely sure that it isn't a human eyeball issue ... I'm doing some more analysis on the data from last night's/this morning's latest calibration runs ... along with visual evaluations ...

Also, before I draw any conclusions, I probably need to recheck the previous greyscale with the backlight set high enough to get white back to ~100Nits.

These things take time ... especially if I also want to keep my DVR backlog manageable.

PS: Just for grins, I put the diffuser on and pointed it at my "6500k" CFL backlight and took a couple of reads ... results ~4500K to 4800K ...
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post #2447 of 2827
4/12/12 at 1:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Labeling the HDMI input I've got my computer connected to as "PC" gave me 4:4:4 chroma over an HDMI to HDMI cable, exactly the same as what I see with a DVI to HDMI cable. I had to use Colmino's modified Belle-Nuit test chart to see the difference though.

Note there are two parts to getting 4:4:4 chroma. First your video card must transmit using a 4:4:4 pixel format, and second your display must not transform its input into 4:2:2 in order to do processing on it. With my ATI card I can just go into the Catalyst Control Center and tell it to use the RGB 4:4:4 pixel format, but I'm not sure if NVIDIA has the equivlent. I guess that's what the EDID override is for. Labelling the input as PC on my LG 42LK450 stopped the TV from transforming the pixels into 4:2:2.

Using a DVI to HDMI cable seems to make this easier, tricking the video card and/or TV into using 4:4:4 because DVI only supports one pixel format RGB, but it doesn't seem to be necessary. At least not in my case.

I've put up a couple of pictures on my WWW site if you want to see what using a HDMI to HDMI cable and a DVI to HDMI cable now look like on my TV.

By the way, if you aren't running the display at its native resolution (1920x1080), with 1:1 pixel mapping (Just Scan) and 4:4:4 colour then you probably want to turn off ClearType. It's designed smooth fonts using sub-pixel anti-aliasing. The means that it tries to use the relative positions of the red, green, and blue LCD elements that make up a single pixel. If it can't get precise control of each pixel then it doesn't work right.

If you do manage to get all that, native resolution, Just Scan, and 4:4:4 colour then you should go through the ClearType calibration process. There's many different ways an LCD panel can arrange it individual colour elements, the calibration process tells Windows which arrangement your display is actually using. Otherwise it uses a default which is usually correct for LCD monitors, but less likely for LCD TVs.

Strangely I cannot set just scan when the HDMI input is labeled as PC. if i change it to blank then I can set just scan. However this makes it look like a 20 year old computer monitor and I can't imagine it should look like that. Perhaps just having the tag as pc input is enough to make it work. I can only do 16:9 with it labeled as PC input though.
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post #2448 of 2827
4/12/12 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

Strangely I cannot set just scan when the HDMI input is labeled as PC. if i change it to blank then I can set just scan. However this makes it look like a 20 year old computer monitor and I can't imagine it should look like that. Perhaps just having the tag as pc input is enough to make it work. I can only do 16:9 with it labeled as PC input though.

it's normal, just use auto adjust to center the image/eliminate overscan... if that doesn't do it you'll need to check your graphic card's settings for scaling/overcan/etc.
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post #2449 of 2827
4/12/12 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

Strangely I cannot set just scan when the HDMI input is labeled as PC. if i change it to blank then I can set just scan. However this makes it look like a 20 year old computer monitor and I can't imagine it should look like that. Perhaps just having the tag as pc input is enough to make it work. I can only do 16:9 with it labeled as PC input though.

Interesting you're having all this trouble using your tv as a monitor etc. When my son wants to use the 47LD520 for some games or homework, he just connects his MacBook Pro via mini-HDMI to HDMI, sets the input to PC and it looks just fine. Maybe your applications are more demanding.
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post #2450 of 2827
4/12/12 at 4:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

Strangely I cannot set just scan when the HDMI input is labeled as PC.

JustScan is basically forced on when you label the input as PC. JustScan disables the cropping that the TV normally does to the image in order to hide distracting junk that can appear at the edges of TV broadcasts and other sources. When you label the input as PC, it also disables this cropping.

With my TV set to 16:9, a resolution of 1920x1080, and setting the overscan to 0% in the Catalyst Control Planel I get the ideal 1:1 pixel mapping. The equivilent NVIDIA control panel should have a similar setting. This "overscan" is a black border that the video card puts around everything when it thinks it might be connected to a TV instead of a computer monitor. The assumption is that the TV will it crop out the edges, so it will only be this black border tht is lost instead of the edges of the Windows desktop.

As it happens my LG TV essentially replaced a 20 year old computer monitor, and I can say for a fact it looks nothing like it.
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post #2451 of 2827
4/13/12 at 1:08pm
I just ran the input lag test and got 33ms. Is that pretty good? Anyway to improve it?
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post #2452 of 2827
4/13/12 at 4:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by irebound View Post

I just ran the input lag test and got 33ms. Is that pretty good? Anyway to improve it?

Assuming you have an LK450. . . yes, 33ms is normal.

And , no, there is no way to improve it. It is what it is based on the internal digital processing of the video siganal in order to display it on the LCD panel.

If you want more info on this use the SEARCH THREAD option on the top right of this page. . . type in "Input Lag". Also, go to the xxLD450 thread and search for Input Lag. .. .. .
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post #2453 of 2827
4/13/12 at 7:23pm
What's the best way to connect the TV's internal speakers to your computer? I think I just might use the speakers in the TVs for my audio. I'm getting a lot of sound buzz/whine/feedback from my studio monitors for some reason, some people say it's my power supply. I'm wondering if I used the TVs speakers if I would get any
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post #2454 of 2827
4/13/12 at 8:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdsnapBryan View Post

What's the best way to connect the TV's internal speakers to your computer? I think I just might use the speakers in the TVs for my audio.

If you have a video card that can do audio over HDMI then you can simply connect the TV as a secondary display and select HDMI audio as your playback device.

If you don't want to use your TV as a secondary (or primary) display or your video card can't do HDMI audio then you can connect your computer's line out to the "(RGB/DVI) Audio In" jack and select the RGB-PC input.

The quality of the speakers in any slim LCD TV aren't exactly anything to write home about, so you may not find that they're an improvement over the speakers you're using now. Using HDMI audio will likely eliminate the noise you're hearing at least.
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post #2455 of 2827
4/14/12 at 6:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

If you have a video card that can do audio over HDMI then you can simply connect the TV as a secondary display and select HDMI audio as your playback device.

If you don't want to use your TV as a secondary (or primary) display or your video card can't do HDMI audio then you can connect your computer's line out to the "(RGB/DVI) Audio In" jack and select the RGB-PC input.

The quality of the speakers in any slim LCD TV aren't exactly anything to write home about, so you may not find that they're an improvement over the speakers you're using now. Using HDMI audio will likely eliminate the noise you're hearing at least.

won't i loose 4:4:4 chroma going from HDMI/DVI to HDMI/HDMI?
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post #2456 of 2827
4/14/12 at 8:33am
Hi guys. I just bought a 32 lk450 for pc and ps3 use. The code on the box was
BEUYLJP . I am in Greece and the tv was assembled in Romania

It seems like i have an ips panel since the text from my pc. With an dvi-hdmi adapter seems to be clear

What got me thinking though is that when i change the color setting from rgb to 4:4:4 from my graphics card menu i don't see any deference

So do you guys know if i have an ips panel ?
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post #2457 of 2827
4/14/12 at 10:27am
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21855438
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post #2458 of 2827
4/14/12 at 11:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmius View Post

It seems like i have an ips panel since the text from my pc. With an dvi-hdmi adapter seems to be clear

What got me thinking though is that when i change the color setting from rgb to 4:4:4 from my graphics card menu i don't see any deference

Whether or not you have an IPS panel won't have a significant effect on the clarity of text. The type of panel used in your TV primarily affects things like off angle viewing and how fast the pixel elements can switch between different colours.

Switching your video card between any of RGB 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:4:4 pixel formats won't cause a noticable difference in the quality of text. These are all full chroma resolution pixels formats, so text ends up looking the same. If you switch the pixel format to YCbCr 4:2:2 then you might see a noticable difference but even then its effect on text may not be immediately obvious.
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post #2459 of 2827
4/14/12 at 11:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdsnapBryan View Post

won't i loose 4:4:4 chroma going from HDMI/DVI to HDMI/HDMI?

Not necessarily. Tell the video card to use a 4:4:4 chroma pixel format and label the input on the TV as "PC". I made a more detailed post about how I got 4:4:4 chroma over an HDMI to HDMI cable, with pictures showing the results, a couple of days ago in this thread.

If that doesn't work, just connect the line out of your computer to the "RGB/DVI Audio In" of the TV. As the name suggests that input jack on the TV is also ment to be used to provide audio when using a DVI connection without audio. You might need to use a specific HDMI input jack on the TV, label it as "PC" and/or something else to get that to work that input instead of the VGA (RGB-PC) input. The manual isn't terribly clear.
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post #2460 of 2827
4/14/12 at 12:36pm
ok i looked behind the screen in side my 32lk450 and all the numbers there are

320B2W7L016CE-L82B

LC32WUN

the tv was bought here in Greece and it was made in Poland
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