Official LG xxLK520 xxLK450 - Page 89

Interesting list. Just for clarification, the "W" and "Y" are the S-IPS type of IPS panels. I have seen H-IPS reported on some models but I don't remember what the letter designation was. Also, the letter designation is for North American tv's, European and Asia may be different.

Yes otto but the W has been reported on some forums to be variably H-IPS or S-IPS regardless of the W, that is why the loupe ( magnifying class) confirmation is the ultimate test in IMO, I myself have seen a LG LE3300 with a W with a loupe that was H-IPS. H-IPS has better black levels but slightly less colour precision.
Also the IPS is by far far superior to the VA panels used in LG sets ( which are S-MVA panels from chi -mei electronics and not A.MVA, A-MVA3 panels from AU eletronics which in my opinion are better).
Also i would like to point out that our TVs have a 10 bit colour processing!!(vs 8 bit on samsung C6000 and D6000 series)

No argument here, and I've been recommending the use of the loupe test for final confirmation for a very long time now. Keep in mind that 8-bit vs 10-bit can be a bit misleading. I don't know if panels in this price range are "true" 10-bit panels, or panels capable of producing 10-bit color depth (8-bit module + a 10-bit receiver). Besides, I think most people would have difficulty in actually perceiving the color depth difference on a mid-level LCD so the spec is sort of meaningless (unless it's a true 10-bit panel).

Since there is a lot of chat here lately, I thought I'd post this link to a very nice article on some LCD panel technology and differences. It isn;t by any means new, but is helpful to sort things out.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/panel_technologies.htm

Thanks. I was looking for that link and yet again, I lost it That's one of the sources I used for bit depth. You'd think by now.........

Yeah, I didn't believe there was a cooling fan inside of my TV in the first place. When I told her that raising the backlight to 99 or 100 stops the buzzing for the most part, there was a LONG pause of silence over the phone. Then she repeated her claim about the fan again, and told me that if they send a service technician out to my house to figure out the problem, the technician would say the same thing as she did.

Hate to return an IPS-equipped 37LK450 back to Staples, but if LG doesn't want to fix a clear hardware problem, then I have no other choice because this buzzing noise can only get worse in time.

Sigh. Now I'm back to the drawing board on researching other TVs that have a great picture and low input lag. And the 37" size is a little big for my seating distance anyways. The hunt begins again.
Edited by Mr Fusion - 6/14/12 at 10:50pm

Hi everyone. I've had this tv for a few months now, and it just recently starting turning itself off.. and on.. over and over again. No idea whats going on. Never dropped. Very clean. No stories. 1 hdmi plugged in to cable box, 1 hdmi plugged into xbox. Thats it! I tried searching this thread, but "issue" and "turn off" returns over 30 pages.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

lg 42lk450

Could be as simple as the button on the remote getting stuck.

If you have HDMI CEC enabled (called Simplink on LG TVs) try disabling it. Push the Simplink button on the remote and change it from "On" to "Off".

Hi all... I have a 42LK520 and we are moving to a house where I will need to wall mount the TV in the bedroom. I discovered last night this TV takes a 200x200 vesa mount which is smaller than a traditional TV mount it seems... I haven't read through this thread in a while so apologies if this was covered a bunch of times, but what wall mount are people using and like??

Thanks Mr. Ridge. I can't get the tv to stay on long enough to do that even. Before it was rapidly turning off and back on.. several times then staying off (the whole time the power light going from blue to red). Now the light is steady red, and not responding at all. It turned on for about 15 seconds then turned itself off again. light is red, and neither power button (on my fios remote that I usually use, or the LG remote) is turning it back on.

I am so bummed. LG won't send someone cause I don't have the receipt anymore.. even though the tv was manufactured in January of 2012.

Didn't you register the LG? Why don't you have the receipt?

It was a gift, and I almost certain I never had the receipt. I never registered. I thought there was no point. Registering has no affect in terms of me having to have my receipt for warranty repairs.

The power button now stays red.

Well ... sorry for the radio silence folks. I've been digesting some crow for the past 24ish hours. I finished up the BT1886 calculator, and decided to put it to the test before inflicting it upon the world.

1) While I would stop just shy of calling BT1886 a "magic bullet," I now have to admit that it does seem to improve some aspects of picture quality ... provided you have a well mastered source. My fear that it would just make your set look like a CRT with the brightness control cranked way too high has, so far, proven to be "overwrought."

2) Using the 10Pt WB adjustments on the LK (and presumably other LG) series, it is possible to achieve a reasonably faithful approximation of the BT1886 Reference EOTF, but be prepared to do a lot of cranking the "knobs" at 10% and 20%. OTOH, your not going to get anywhere with an old school 2pt WB.

Soooo.... where does that leave the rest of us? Not trying to be a smart-ass but I'm still really fuzzy on BT1886 and it's application to an existing calibration. Would we have to re-calibrate using the BT1886 calculations?

^ ^ ^ I wouldn't. It's just another modification of a calibration standard with what amounts to a black level and white level skew in gamma. Trying to make an LCD TV look more like what you might have gotten on CRT TVs. Kinda makes a person scratch his head as to why though. Apparently it amounts to "chose a standard" of the week if you like to play with calibration.

In other words, kind of different gamma level on the low dark end and high end. As long as you are getting good dark level detail and not clipping whites using your AVS HD709 or Disney WOW you are getting a very good picture on your TV.

it changes low end and high end gamma, making the low end brighter and the high end darker

changing gamma is not the same thing as setting brightness and contrast correctly, though... you can have both of those settings at optimal positions and still not have proper shadow and highlight detail (if gamma near black is too high/dark and gamma near white is too low/bright)

such is the case on my LK450 for shadow detail before gamma is corrected with the 10-pt controls

1) Well ... Like I said, I've been trying to digest that particular crow ^^^^ for the past couple of days. I wouldn't dismiss BT1886 so quickly. Much to my astonishment, my LK w/ BT1886 now has actual "depth" to the image, which collapses as soon as I switch back to the straight power law gamma.

2) BT1886 is the new (in fact the first and only) official standard for gamma.

The problems are these.

1) It's probably going to be impossible to implement on any display that doesn't have an effective, non-band inducing, 10pt WB adjustment. 2pt WB adjustments, even on our LG's, usually assume a straight power law curve. So the corollary is that it will be impossible to "eyeball' it or use any kind of optical comparator.

2) Yes: It may/will cause some confusion in the calibration community, and perhaps in the mastering industry as well.

.... gotta scram for a bit ... more later ... and perhaps the actual calculator widget ...

Yes.

And.. that's the rub, those without equipment wouldn't be able to duplicate it and now the mastering industry thing. Also, I'm wondering how this would bode for those who like high peak white levels for bright room environments and also, wonder if lowering back light would be a good starting point to alleviate the lighter low end of the scale. But, never mind. . . don;t want to really monkey with it anyway.
Edited by Phase700B - 6/16/12 at 12:01pm

looking forward to it when you get the chance

regarding the first problem, would you say our LG LK450s have effective, non-band inducing, 10pt WB adjustments?

also, when referring to the straight power law gamma calibration you're comparing the new standard against, is that with or without black level compensation?

Well then. Being as this is a manipulation (if I understand it correctly) of an approved standard, then wouldn't this cause major havoc with the established calibration community? Something to play with but not necessarily recommend as a "real calibration"?

I'd say it all depends on the display in question and the viewing conditions present. Prior to BT.1886, there was no exact standard for gamma (power law formula was used but the exponent could be anywhere from 2.2 to 2.6). For most flat-panel displays, 2.35-2.4 was the upper limit and displays with poor black levels/low native contrast ratios were best at 2.2 (like the IPS panel LK450s and LK520s). I'm willing to bet this new standard will look the best compared to 2.2 power law gamma on our IPS panel displays, as HDTVChallenged seems to have observed, mainly because it gives you better shadow detail at the low end without washing out the remainder of the image (and it actually darkens the top end for more contrast).

Yes ...as far as I can tell from looking at 0 to 100% ramp/sweep patterns. I don't see any issues visually, but I suppose measuring at 20pts (every 5%) would add an extra level of confidence. I haven't gone there yet.

The previous setup that I'm comparing is setup without BLC.

That being said, I think the best option going forward is to maintain one calibration based on straight power law and one based on the new BT1886 standard. I just watched a bit of the extended DVD version of "Fellowship of the Rings," up-converted via PS3 and it was clear that the straight power law function was the better choice for that title and player. So, I suppose that's the 3rd item on the "con" side: Confusion and a wee bit of Chaos.
Edited by HDTVChallenged - 6/16/12 at 11:45pm

It's not a "manipulation." But yes there's going to be a bit of havoc due to fact that every thing "prior" to BT1886 was most likely mastered/transferred/scanned using a monitor setup with a straight power law function. OTOH, prior to BT1886 there was no real standard. The gamma on the mastering monitor was unknown (to the viewer,) so in that sense, the arrival of BT1886 doesn't really change the current chaos level it just brings "hope" that things will be less chaotic in the future...

The chaos and confusion aspect will be particularly interesting. But it does sound like a TV with at least 20 point gamma would benefit even more from the BT1886 standard.

In reading some comments from other sources on the internet from professionals in the field I see words like flummoxed, "still in a state of flux", and considerable debate regarding ambient light level assumptions and other aspects.
Edited by Phase700B - 6/17/12 at 7:17am

Hmmm, that being the case then I'll just stick with what I have now, and let you boys with the toys search for the perfect gamma

Yes given that that "word" was apparently uttered by one Mr. Poynton (that was last year btw,) I don't feel so bad about my own confusion wrt to the actual technical document.

For instance, I still haven't figured out exactly how they expect us to solve for k and b using the "alternative method," given that the value of k depends on b, and value of b depends on k. Perhaps I've killed too many math aware brain cells.

And yes 20pt adjustment would be even better, but again, if there any significant lack of curve "smoothing" issues on our LG's, it would be visible on a 0-100% ramp pattern.
Edited by HDTVChallenged - 6/17/12 at 10:45am

LOL .. Well one of the reasons I still haven't posted the widget, is that I'm still checking material that I've probably seen 100's of times at this point. And then I run out of time ... like now.

I think BT.1886 gamma should at least help with certain BD/DVD movies. I'm currently watching "Monsters" BD version, and shadow detail in dark scenes is pretty poor. There is definitely room for improvement with this particular movie. I'm using 2.2 power law gamma without BLC at the moment.

The more I watch with the BT1886 setup, the more I like it ... Including the aforementioned LOTR:FOTR DVD up-converted via PS3.