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Official LG xxLK520 xxLK450 - Page 90

post #2671 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

The more I watch with the BT1886 setup, the more I like it ... Including the aforementioned LOTR:FOTR DVD up-converted via PS3.

Hmmm, it would be nice to see what the change looks like on my 47LD520 but alas, meters no more frown.gif
post #2672 of 2833
There actually is a calculator for BT.1886 created by Zoyd in the calibration forum thread "How power law gamma calibration can lead to crushed blacks"

I downloaded it and input my white and black level values from CalMANv4 into it, using cdm instead of the typical fL. I have attached my results.

bt1886_calculator.xlsx 15k .xlsx file
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 6/20/12 at 10:23am
post #2673 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

There actually is a calculator for BT.1886 created by Zoyd in the calibration forum thread "How power law gamma calibration can lead to crushed blacks"
I downloaded it and input my white and black level values from CalMANv4 into it, using cdm instead of the typical fL. I have attached my results.

I used zoyd's spreadhseet that is attached to the first post in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406352/gcd-gamut-calibration-disk#post_21927460 - In this version, you can enter your measured values after adjustment to get an idea of how closely you hit the mark.

My post-adjustment chart is attached. I included it because there was some speculation that 20-pt white balance might be necessary to achieve bt.1886 gamma. I measured 20-pt after doing the adjustments, and as you can see, the 10-pt adjustment did a pretty good job moving the "in between" points as well. BTW, HDTV is right -some serious "turning of the knobs" is required.

I haven't watched enough content yet to comment on the effect on PQ.

2012_06_18_GCD_targets v11.pdf 184k .pdf file
post #2674 of 2833
I entered my 10-pt data in from a 2.2 power law calibration with BLC enabled and got the attached result.

GCD_targets v11.xlsx 127k .xlsx file
post #2675 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post


My post-adjustment chart is attached. I included it because there was some speculation that 20-pt white balance might be necessary to achieve bt.1886 gamma. I measured 20-pt after doing the adjustments, and as you can see, the 10-pt adjustment did a pretty good job moving the "in between" points as well. BTW, HDTV is right -some serious "turning of the knobs" is required.
I haven't watched enough content yet to comment on the effect on PQ.
2012_06_18_GCD_targets v11.pdf 184k .pdf file

It's good to know the 10-pt controls work well enough so that 20-pt controls aren't needed (nor do you have to compromise accuracy at the measured 10 points to keep the points in between close enough). I agree that gamma is much brighter at the low end of the grayscale and slightly darker at the high end of the grayscale.
post #2676 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

BTW, HDTV is right -some serious "turning of the knobs" is required.
I haven't watched enough content yet to comment on the effect on PQ.

Just be glad that we can adjust our 10% points *without* affecting the black level. This would suggest that our 10pt WB is working on the video data as opposed to the panel "drive."

The main thing I've noticed post BT1886 is a significant increase is the apparent "depth" of the image ... almost to the point of distraction ... like about 1 click away from being in 3D ViewMaster land. ... And I'm not entirely sure that the production designers of "Real Time w/ Bill Maher" actually intended for us to be able to see all the way to the back of the stage, and all the individual elements of the set back there ... smile.gif
post #2677 of 2833
anyone know what might be wrong with my 42LK450??

I get this grey/blackish bar that goes across the screen.

700

Is my TV damaged or something?
post #2678 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by bombatwist View Post

anyone know what might be wrong with my 42LK450??
I get this grey/blackish bar that goes across the screen.
700
Is my TV damaged or something?

looks like one or more of the EEFL tubes that make up the backlight have died
post #2679 of 2833
Hi everyone, greetings from Argentina. First of all I apologize in advance about my English, it’s not my native language, so I hope you can understand me.
I’ve recently bought an LG 32Lk450 LCD TV and I’m very happy with it. After reading in this forum about the panel lottery, I took a macro photo of the screen and I can say that the panel is the S-IPS versión, with the chevron type pixels. By the way, the product number on the sticker reads 32LK450-SA.AWG, may be the SA prefix means South America, anyway I don’t know, but it has at least 3 less characters compared with the others examples I saw here.
Well, now I want to calibrate the TV and I run into several limitations to do it, and with limitations I mean:
Obviously I don’t have any dedicated hardware tool to do it (light meters, colorimeters, don´t know if the names are correct anyway I don’t know how to use them)
I don’t have neither a Blue Ray Disc player, DVD-HD player, PS3 or Xbox360.
The only equipment I have is a desktop PC near the TV set with an AMD videocard with HDMI output (a basic Radeon HD5450).
I really want to use the patterns of the AVS HD709 disc (HDMV versión, full disc) to calibrate the TV, and the only way to reproduce it, is mounting the iso image in a virtual Blue Ray device and send it through HDMI with PowerDVD (versión 12).
The question is if it is posible do the calibration process in that way. If the answer is yes, do I need to change the color space output in the ATI Catalyst Control Center from RGB to YCbCr?. ¿Is it posible to do it over HDMI? .
And about the pixel format do I need to keep the 4:4:4 settings?.

In the worst scenario, if the answer to all the above questions is no, the only way left to do the calibration is using the mp4 files from the AVS HD709. In this case can I play the mp4 files directly from the usb port of the TV with the integrated media player?.

Thanks in advance and again sorry for the language and the long post.
Greetings
post #2680 of 2833
Picked up a 32LK450 a few weeks ago to replace a cheapo 26" I have had for a few years.

It is a really nice TV and I haven't run into any problems with it. I've been using the "Game" picture setting but found the picture to be rather dark which I changed by setting the Black Lever to high, at least I think that is what I did.

I'm here wondering if there are any ideal settings for gaming with my PS3/360, I've never had a TV with so many options before to be perfectly honest so was wondering if there are any someone has put together for the expert setting options for picture/audio?
post #2681 of 2833
You can probably find someone who will share their settings with you but that is not always a good idea. The reason is simple: all tv's are inherently different from each other due to the mfr tolerances, build of components, etc. Even within the exact same model line. You would be best off to set your tv to its defaults, write down the settings as a reference point, and the start adjusting the Presets to your liking. Steer clear of the Expert settings for now. Ideally, you should pick up a free copy of the AVS HD709 calibration disk or one of the commercial disks such as DVEssentials, WoW, or Spears & Munsil. That way you can at least set your basics; brightness, contrast, sharpness, aspect, etc which can, and probably will, greatly improve the pq. The Expert settings are usually reserved for use with meters and specialized software. Calibrating a tv with meters, or performing Accurate Picture Adjustments without the use of meters , also involves the viewing environment (lighting, distance, the use of bias lighting, etc) so that's another reason why sharing settings doesn't always work. If you go the calibration route, you can either DIY or pay for a professional to do it. A lot of folks here DIY but the learning curve is fairly steep. But there are quite a few posters who are more than happy to help you get started and offer advice and guidance.
post #2682 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

You can probably find someone who will share their settings with you but that is not always a good idea. The reason is simple: all tv's are inherently different from each other due to the mfr tolerances, build of components, etc. Even within the exact same model line. You would be best off to set your tv to its defaults, write down the settings as a reference point, and the start adjusting the Presets to your liking. Steer clear of the Expert settings for now. Ideally, you should pick up a free copy of the AVS HD709 calibration disk or one of the commercial disks such as DVEssentials, WoW, or Spears & Munsil. That way you can at least set your basics; brightness, contrast, sharpness, aspect, etc which can, and probably will, greatly improve the pq. The Expert settings are usually reserved for use with meters and specialized software. Calibrating a tv with meters, or performing Accurate Picture Adjustments without the use of meters , also involves the viewing environment (lighting, distance, the use of bias lighting, etc) so that's another reason why sharing settings doesn't always work. If you go the calibration route, you can either DIY or pay for a professional to do it. A lot of folks here DIY but the learning curve is fairly steep. But there are quite a few posters who are more than happy to help you get started and offer advice and guidance.

+1

Having owned a 37LK450 and two 42LK450s (I kept the second 42LK450), I can say they all calibrated differently in terms of grayscale, gamma, and to a smaller extent, CMS/gamut. They all measured differently pre-cal, which meant the post-cal settings to achieve D65 white point, 2.2 gamma, and Rec. 709 gamut were different for each sample of the LK450.

And guess what, they were all the S-IPS panel version too!
post #2683 of 2833
I have been reading this article in detail (http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/panel_technologies.htm) and based on this site's description of the panel I have on my 42LK450 (http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13896), have concluded I have either the "Enhanced and Advanced S-IPS (E-IPS and AS-IPS)" based on the response time of 5 ms for gray to gray transitions or the "S-IPS II". What I don't get is that S-IPS panels are supposed to have great horizontal and vertical viewing angles but my set has a poor vertical viewing angle with severe washout at the top of the screen when viewing from below and at the bottom of the screen when looking from above. Horizontal viewing angles are excellent, as expected.

"Enhanced S-IPS builds on S-IPS technology by providing the same 178° viewing angle from above and below and to the sides, and greatly improves the off-axis viewing experience by delivering crisp images with minimal color shift, even when viewed from off-axis angles such as 45°. You will rarely see this E-IPS term being used to be honest."
post #2684 of 2833
That is odd. My S-IPS looks just fine horizontally as well as vertically. My LG is on a console so I laid on the floor (like I used to when I was a kid) and looked up at the tv and it seemed fine. Our viewing in on a couch abouit 10' feet away with dead center about 6" above the eye-sight line, so slightly elevated. From some reason I thought that the E-IPS and AS-IPS were used mostly in monitors, not tvs.
post #2685 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

From some reason I thought that the E-IPS and AS-IPS were used mostly in monitors, not tvs.

well, they say those names are not typically used... but the description fits the response time of my panel exactly
post #2686 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

well, they say those names are not typically used... but the description fits the response time of my panel exactly

Hmm, I've never used panelook to check my panel I just went by the product code and loupe test but have never checked the gray to gray response time (not sure how to do that). All I know is that the pq is nice at any angle (almost) and all other aspects are more than satisfactory.
post #2687 of 2833
Regarding viewing angles, it seems at least one other (S-IPS) LK450 owner has noted the same thing.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1327825/official-lg-xxlk520-xxlk450/480#post_20828792
post #2688 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Regarding viewing angles, it seems at least one other (S-IPS) LK450 owner has noted the same thing.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1327825/official-lg-xxlk520-xxlk450/480#post_20828792

Don't know what to tell ya then. Seems that even within the S-IPS panel line some are "better" than others. Kind of makes you wonder what criteria they use to determine the 178 degree viewing angle.
post #2689 of 2833
I tried searching but I couldn't find an answer. In Expert1 picture mode it shows "Edge Enhancer: High" but it is grayed out and can't be modified. Is there some way to unlock the expert controls and disable "Edge Enhancer"?
post #2690 of 2833
Quote:
I tried searching but I couldn't find an answer. In Expert1 picture mode it shows "Edge Enhancer: High" but it is grayed out and can't be modified. Is there some way to unlock the expert controls and disable "Edge Enhancer"?

That's odd, every setting is unlocked when I use Expert. Try resetting everything to factory default by using Picture Reset or Initial Setting. Just a thought: are you using the VGA port or have the input named PC?
Edited by moviegeek - 6/27/12 at 11:17am
post #2691 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegeek View Post

That's odd, every setting is unlocked when I use Expert. Try resetting everything to factory default by using Picture Reset or Initial Setting. Just a thought: are you using the VGA port or have the input named PC?

Hi, I'm using DVI -> HDMI cable from my PC, and yes the input is named "PC". Tried resetting everything, still grayed out.

EDIT: Tried factory reset again, and now it's working. Weird. Thanks for the suggestion.

EDIT 2: No, I forgot to rename the input this time, so it's the PC label that disables the options. But if I can disable everything, what does the label matter?
Edited by IT007 - 6/27/12 at 11:48am
post #2692 of 2833
I thought the PC label might be the problem, in LG's infinite wisdom they limit what you can adjust to optimize for PC viewing.
post #2693 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegeek View Post

I thought the PC label might be the problem, in LG's infinite wisdom they limit what you can adjust to optimize for PC viewing.

Makes sense to me. When the input is label PC the TV disables most processing (including Edge Enhancement as near as I can tell) and tries to behave like a computer monitor. I'm guessing most of the transformations aren't implemented for the RGB 4:4:4 pixel format anyways, and have to be done using one of the YCC pixel formats.
post #2694 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Makes sense to me. When the input is label PC the TV disables most processing (including Edge Enhancement as near as I can tell) and tries to behave like a computer monitor. I'm guessing most of the transformations aren't implemented for the RGB 4:4:4 pixel format anyways, and have to be done using one of the YCC pixel formats.

While not using the PC label on the HDMI input, all picture settings are available regardless of whether you use YCbCr or RGB colorspace.
post #2695 of 2833
I was a little disappointed in picture shifting on this tv.crt looks so much better.the top of screen was about 5 ft above eye level.i didn't want friends kids touching screen or blocking screen was reason I had it up high.i guess putting a tilting base would of made it more expensive.
post #2696 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

I was a little disappointed in picture shifting on this tv.crt looks so much better.the top of screen was about 5 ft above eye level.i didn't want friends kids touching screen or blocking screen was reason I had it up high.i guess putting a tilting base would of made it more expensive.

Any LCD TV you mount that high will look bad if you don't angle it, should of got a plasma. If you want to see what I mean take your LCD monitor(desktop or laptop) and move the top away from you so you are looking at a >45 degree angle.
post #2697 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic12345 View Post

I was a little disappointed in picture shifting on this tv.crt looks so much better.the top of screen was about 5 ft above eye level.i didn't want friends kids touching screen or blocking screen was reason I had it up high.i guess putting a tilting base would of made it more expensive.

the vertical viewing angle on the IPS panel is pretty limited, especially when viewing the picture from below the screen up close.
post #2698 of 2833
Think I'm gonna get a cheap plasma $400 42 in lg at bestbuy,because I like the way the cinema zoom worked on other lk520 I had.Im just a tiny bit concerned with burning in and durability of plasma but that low price it's probably worth the risk.My CRT has a mirror like screen but I hardly ever watch dark screen shows.
post #2699 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

looks like one or more of the EEFL tubes that make up the backlight have died

is it possible to self replace those?
post #2700 of 2833
Quote:
Originally Posted by bombatwist View Post

is it possible to self replace those?

Not that I know of. You'd need to replace the entire panel/backlight assembly, which would cost nearly as much as the TV itself.
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