Sony VW1000 4k, 13' Scope, and Ten 21 Inch Subs - Page 12

Wow. You're lucky to have survived a 120 MPH crash. Sorry about your back injury, though. It's impressive that you've managed to do so much of the lifting and building. Keep up the good work.

And I must say, your AV gear is truly impressive. It will be a dynamic and awe inspiring theater.

Getting the opening in the framing perfectly plumb and level is the problem. If that is good, don't worry about the rack. I have done 2 of them, and never found a need to screw down the rack itself. However, leveling screw feet on the rack were helpful.

My rack was screwed to the framing. This was partially to keep the rack tight to the framing because I framed my rack in place. I needed as little clearance around the rack as possible because I was limited for space.

Somebody makes 1 x 4 audio distribution amplifiers designed for line-level audio distribution.

But if your EQ box has enough outputs, that would be the way to do it.

Do you plan on using balanced or rca inputs?

We used to use these little "stick-on" audio DAs in broadcasting studio applications -- they work great.

http://www.rdlnet.com/product.php?page=38

Are they JTR T8's?

It just all depends
Aiming in general, and toe angle specifically, is best optimized after everything is up and running. It's a balance of how much acoustic energy encounters the sidewall for envelopment, and a good axial exposure to the primary LP for optimal imaging. The sidewall interaction is oft best done with significant toe IMO, allowing optimal IACC(inter aural cross correlation). One approach is lessening detrimental sidewall interaction between you and the mains, yet heightening it beside/behind you in a somewhat of a diagonal fashion; ie left main hitting right rear sidewall, right main hitting left rear sidewall.

Point being, ideally you're going to need to fine tune the aiming with test material, and/or program material, IMO.

You might have better luck posting these questions on the DIY Speaker and Sub section.

I recommend the RDL ST-DA3. This is a distribution amplifier (DA), 1 line-level input, 3 line-level outputs. It will handle either balanced or unbalanced.

You are not needing to change the level of the signals, just prevent the split from loading down the source

If you want a connectorized unit, you could use one channel of the model RU-UDA4 Stereo DA (2 ch in x 4 out, with RCA connectors in and out). As far as I can tell, the FP10000 amps are 4 channel, so you could use 1 channel (1 in x 4 out) for each FP10000.

If you use the connectorized version, I would use RCA-to-XLR cables from the outputs of the DA to the inputs on the FP10000. Just and RCA-to-RCA from the Receiver to the input of the DA.

If you use the stick-on with screw terminals, just buy an XLR-to-XLR, cut it in half, and you have two cables to connect from the screw terminal outputs on the DA to the XLR inputs on the FP10000.

Nice

My personal favs

All 4 bottles of Pappy are from the last batch. It was a pain to get and the dealer would only let me buy 1 of each. Luckily someone was gracious enough to say they wanted a bottle of each as well and then handed them to me at the counter and said enjoy

My buddy has a bottle of Pappy 23 Year Old and Pappy 20 Year Old. I ended up giving him a bottle of Pappy 15 to finish the collection. We've had plenty of of the 15 Year old since and the 20 Year Old I went through about half of one of the bottles at Christmas (with family). It was funny cause my dad shot it like a $5 bourbon and I was like

But to give you my comparison. They are like no other bourbon...I've had a lot, my neighbor is quite the bourbon collector and we both fully agree Pappy 20 is the best Bourbon. It has a great flavor and very smooth. At just over a $100 a bottle it is a steal, problem is supply is always short and when they come in they fly off the shelf. I was calling the distributor for weeks and I just happen to be in the area, popped in and saw him unboxing them.

The Pappy 15 is also another great bourbon. Not quite as smooth as the 20 but a hell of a value at I think $65 a bottle. 15 is a great alternative for 20 when you don't want to use up the really good stuff.

Now Pappy 23 Year Old...very hard to find and cost about $250 a bottle...but I might as well be drinking Four Roses or Fighting C0ck. Stuff was harsh and I didn't enjoy it at all. Glad I had a chance to have some just so I can say I did, but I have no ambitions of finding a bottle for myself.

The Johnnie Walker Blue in the center is some great stuff as well. I enjoy it as much as I enjoy some Pappy 20, but the JW Bue costs about $200 a bottle so the value isn't quite there. I have 2 bottles of the JW Blue, but I rarely break them out.

Now for some inexpensive stuff that is really good...the key is to start with Pappy 20 and get a nice buzz, everything afterwards just tastes better. Here is a night shot and a morning shot




The ladies went to sleep and my buddy and I had a really good night. Thats Pappy 20 in the glass to get us started and then we had a bunch of very good and well priced bourbons like Michters, Elijah Craig 18, and Eagle Rare. I really enjoyed the Michters and Elijah Craig

Oh yeah I do all my bourbon with 1 cube, 2 cubes if it is something ridiculous like George T Stagg that really needs to be cut by some water to not burn a hole in your throat. You can mix the cheap stuff with sprite

If I understand what you are doing, it appears to me that you are driving 10 amplifiers (4 ch. per FP10000 x 2, and 2 other amps) from your one subwoofer output. A Distribution Amp is simply a unity-gain buffer amplifier that prevents loading down the source, and prevents a problem in one output channel from affecting the others. For example, you can short one of the outputs and the other outputs continue to work. My guess would be that you will need a DA, rather that simply a wire splitter.