Comments and suggestions below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
stang725 
I also wanted to feed my speaker output through the back of the cabinet, vice the bottom (assuming its laying down). I was going to route it through the back chamber wall (have a fitting that will be airtight) and run the speaker wire alongside a brace that would terminate with a speakon on the outside wall of the cabinet.
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As long as things are airtight and the wire is secured, things will be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
stang725 
For the access panel, I was going record/scribe the area that "would be cut out" for the access panel and not actually make the cut. If I ever suspect driver failure or any issues... I would then retrofit the access panel to see what’s going on.
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Up to you. Cutting into things after the fact is always an option, but the inability to inspect things or tighten the driver screws might be an issue. I'd suggest going with the access panel, it isn't that hard to do, and it isn't that hard to seal up properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
stang725 
Still on the fence about attaching the plate amp to the back of the cabinet (considering a separate enclosure that is screwed into the back of the cabinet in lieu of cutting out a section and making the plate amp exposed to the inside of the cabinet)
Any ideas on this, as I basically don't want to have the amp just sitting on the floor next to the cabinet in its own box. I can’t run speaker wire to remote amp, already have coax in-wall to a drop where sub is going.
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Plate amps are very limited. If I were going to run a separate amp on an F-20 today, I'd get a smaller rack-mounted pro amp. Something like the iNuke 1000DSP will run one or two cabinets just fine, and offers very nice DSP tuning, for about $300.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
stang725 
One last thing, so there should be no need to go with bash 500 over the bash 300. I will be using Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15".
See my suggestion above.