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Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 54

post #1591 of 1695
very interesting find!

can you snap a few photos of your deck?
post #1592 of 1695
No sweat. I will snap a few and upload tomorrow.
post #1593 of 1695
Wow what great timing I am about to refinish my deck also and have been looking for a good paint, this just might do the trick. How was the coverage?
post #1594 of 1695
manufacturer application video here:

http://rustoleumrestore.com/dcr/

looks interesting.
post #1595 of 1695
The product covers quite well but the rustoleum estimate may be a bit generous. My deck is ~16x32 and 12 gallons @ 2 coats (3 four gallon jugs ~$80 a shot) should complete the project. Supposed to last 10 years. I have three dogs so Im hoping for 6. I applied the first coat with the rustoleum applicator and the second with a thick nap roller. Watered the second coat down @ roughly .5 cups per gallon. Others say you can water the second coat @ 1 cup per gallon but I stayed a bit conservative. I had some relatively substantial cracks and used a brush on them prior to coating (per instructions) and all went well. I split the project and completed half last week and the first coat on the second half this evening. Hope to wrap things up tomorrow.
post #1596 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

I just refinished my deck with this stuff and found it to be a great product. Wish I had come across it when finishing my F-20's. Would have saved me hours of sanding and bondo (I semi-suck with bondo). Fills in large cracks screws and seams. Comes in ~50 different colors. Very similar to duratex. ~$25 a gallon @ Lowes.


I tried some on some cabs and don't care for it. For a deck where you want a non-slip surface it's nice, but the sandpaper-like texture isn't at all skin friendly. I'm staying with Duratex for my cabs.
post #1597 of 1695
if u want a super high gloss finish thats smooth as glass , get the rustoleum in the can( not the deck stuff just the standard paint) and mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits.
do not shake it to mix it it will fill with air bubbles ,stir it. then apply it with a 4inch wide foam roller.

ive never painted wood with it like that but on plastics and metal it takes about 3-4 coats depending on how much u wetsand between coats , when u are done if u buff it out it turns into a black mirror
post #1598 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

I tried some on some cabs and don't care for it. For a deck where you want a non-slip surface it's nice, but the sandpaper-like texture isn't at all skin friendly. I'm staying with Duratex for my cabs.

No one wants a slipper sub!

As requested.







A bit of touch-up still required.
post #1599 of 1695
Are there any rew / db charts showing the difference between the F20 and the 24" THT?
post #1600 of 1695
Thread Starter 
None that I am aware of.

I've measured both, but I never directly compared the measurements. Since the settings and equipment were different between the measurements, a direct comparison isn't really appropriate.

In a groundplane setting, the F-20 might be a dB or two ahead below 40 Hz, the THT is a dB or two ahead above 40 Hz. In a room? Well that all depends on the room.

The biggest difference between the two is the shape of the cabinet.
post #1601 of 1695
Thanks, good insight!

But I guess the f20 would probably be the better choice if I already have the MFW15 speaker... I mean yes it works with the THT just fine, but the F20 was designed around it..
post #1602 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockon2u View Post

hi,will these plans work with what I have ? I have dual 15" cerwins with a stroker kit in them ..thanks Pete.........

No hurt in building a few and trying it out. If you don't like the drivers in there and they don't measure well, then just get the standard issue daytons for less than $400 and sell the drivers you have biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Wow what great timing I am about to refinish my deck also and have been looking for a good paint, this just might do the trick. How was the coverage?

Behr just came out with their deck restoration stuff too. Might look into that as well. Says it will cover and gaps up to 1/4"

I was looking for some of that stuff for my deck or deciding to flip the boards.....They are already too far gone (They were when I bought the house) so I just pressure washed them and will give em another summer and get fresh boards next year...$$$$$ FUN rolleyes.gif
post #1603 of 1695
What wood is cheap, and maybe lighter than birch plywood that would be sufficient for the F-20? I can add a bit of bracing..

What about using 1/2 inch plywood? I can't imagine this thing needing to be 3/4 inch thick with only 250watts going through it..? Actually in my case I only have 100watts..
post #1604 of 1695
Diaz,

You will want to use a decent quality 3/4 plywood. I used Chinese Birch. It cost me $33 per 4 x 8 sheet. The F20 moves a lot of air. Be sure to brace the internal panels using diagonal blocks. Those blocks will knock down unwanted sympathetic rattles and vibrations. You will also want to put rubber feet on the bottom of the cabinets. If you don't your F20 cabinet will 'walk on you' if it is setting on a smooth floor surface. I've got two F20s loaded with MFW drivers. You wont be disappointed.
______________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff
post #1605 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl_Huff View Post

...decent quality... Chinese Birch
There is an oxymoron if I ever heard one.
post #1606 of 1695
Diaz...

I build one with oak ply from lowes and three with baltic birch. The oak cabinet weighed much less, but I preferred the birch. Who cares how much it weighs? Hopefully you're not moving them frequently. Mine are permanently screwed to the floor lol.
post #1607 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

There is an oxymoron if I ever heard one.

True, true ...

So very true!

I have had the privilege of working with Baltic Birch of late, such a difference ...
________________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff
post #1608 of 1695
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by diaz View Post

What wood is cheap, and maybe lighter than birch plywood that would be sufficient for the F-20? I can add a bit of bracing..

What about using 1/2 inch plywood? I can't imagine this thing needing to be 3/4 inch thick with only 250watts going through it..? Actually in my case I only have 100watts..

Arauco ply is fine if you can find it. Columbia Forest Products Purebond poplar looks OK too, but I haven't built anything with it yet. In a pinch - even quality 3/4" OSB will work. The design is drawn for 3/4" ply, a thinner (or thicker) panel will mess up the horn expansion.

A bit more experience with building and testing horns has taught me that bracing really isn't optional, these cabinets can't be too strong.
post #1609 of 1695
I used Arauco on my F-20 build, works great! Could only find it at a local lumber supplier, not at the big box stores. Was also kind of spendy at $44 /sheet but I have no regrets now that I've had time to listen to the beast. smile.gif It may be cheaper in your location.
post #1610 of 1695
"A bit more experience with building and testing horns has taught me that bracing really isn't optional, these cabinets can't be too strong."

might want to update the op with that because folks continue to build f20's.

i think it still reads the other way.
post #1611 of 1695
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"A bit more experience with building and testing horns has taught me that bracing really isn't optional, these cabinets can't be too strong."

might want to update the op with that because folks continue to build f20's.

i think it still reads the other way.

Done.

Thanks for the reminder.
post #1612 of 1695
I used Arauco to build a 4pi Speaker. I ended up discarding it and starting over with Birch. I figured why go cheap on the cabinet when the guts were upwards of $800. I found the Arauco to be too soft, which I had sourced from Lowes at $30/sheet.

I only added bracing to one of my four F20s. It wasn't that hard, but I had 19 speakers and subs to construct and lilmike said it was uneeded at the time, so I didn't brace the three made of birch. I have never noticed a difference between any of them. Then again...mine are screwed & glued together in pairs, as well as screwed to the floor and baffle wall in a permanent installation. So, maybe my experience shouldn't be used as a template for others.
post #1613 of 1695
I built the bigger cousin to the F-20, the Lilwrecker, with Arauco and it does quite well. I found it for $40/sheet.
post #1614 of 1695
my f20s are still fine without the internal bracing. I would add it though if I built more.
post #1615 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

I used Arauco to build a 4pi Speaker. I ended up discarding it and starting over with Birch. I figured why go cheap on the cabinet when the guts were upwards of $800. I found the Arauco to be too soft, which I had sourced from Lowes at $30/sheet.

I only added bracing to one of my four F20s. It wasn't that hard, but I had 19 speakers and subs to construct and lilmike said it was uneeded at the time, so I didn't brace the three made of birch. I have never noticed a difference between any of them. Then again...mine are screwed & glued together in pairs, as well as screwed to the floor and baffle wall in a permanent installation. So, maybe my experience shouldn't be used as a template for others.

i built the micro wrecker ( 6 total) out of 3/4 osb i used 1.5 inch dowels for bracing and it worked great , i know its not the right way to brace it but i didnt have the tools required to make the proper windowed bracing , everything but the cab shakes and vibrates lmao, the floor vibrates bad enough that i had to bolt the microwreckers to the floor as they liked to do the shuffle across the floor

i have 2 of the alpines left over since i had 8 total , just for shits n giggles i asked lilmike what would happen if i doubled the width of the cab and put 2 of the alpines in it, if it will work im sure that cab will require a hell of alot of bracing
post #1616 of 1695
*cough* mdf works great too *cough*. I used these feet and have had absolutely zero sub walking for the last year and a half on my hardwood floor... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-772
post #1617 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaddeussmith View Post

*cough* mdf works great too *cough*. I used these feet and have had absolutely zero sub walking for the last year and a half on my hardwood floor... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-772

i definatly need some of those, the building i hold the partys/dance/raves in is about 100 years old and the floor is original hardwood so its vibrates a good bit,even if it wasnt old im sure it would vibrate anyway with 4-6 micro's going at full tilt
post #1618 of 1695
Interestingly...we did a good job with acoustical treatments. The only thing that "buzz" are the lighting fixtures on the exterior of the building lol.
post #1619 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

Interestingly...we did a good job with acoustical treatments. The only thing that "buzz" are the lighting fixtures on the exterior of the building lol.
, im getting there with our building , i had to line the wall behind my booth with 1 inch thick of foam padding , the wall behind my dj booth has those old huge thing glass windows in it, i managed to crack 2 of them the first day i had the pair of micro wreckers up and running.

outside the building sounds horrible its a 7,500 sqft old wooden building with that aluminum sheet siding on it the outside of the building vibrates pretty bad , atleast inside i have the rattles to a minimum except for the one hangin overhead furnace 2 of the panels rattle pretty good on that , for now since were not using it i put foam panels around it and tied them up with bungge cords to hold them in place , once it starts getting cold here ill have to figure out another solution ,probably some sound deadning spray on the outside of it
post #1620 of 1695
Quote:
Originally Posted by turdlepoker View Post

MFW-15 Measurements:
  • Cutout Diameter: 13 7/8"
  • Driver height at highest point: 7"
  • Driver height below mounting flange: 6 1/2"
  • Flange Thickness: 1/2"
  • Surround width: 13 7/8"
  • Drivers widest point: 15 1/8"
  • Magnet Width: 6 1/2"
  • Magnet Height: 2 1/4"


Let me know if you need any other measurements. I hope this helped

Man I need to save those.
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