Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 7

My point was based on someone only needing to set a highpass, who was not going to use rew to eq.

gotcha, with an enclosure that measures this flat, does it bare the necessity to really do eqing? my AVR with audyssey and sub EQ wont automatically do that for this specific enclosure for me?

I'm not entirely sure about this but I'm currently thinking that the eq'ing on the miniDSP is good at integrating subs, and possibly a sub with mains. Flat in principle is not the same as flat in a room and it is not flat under interference, and non-pro Audyssey does not do integration.

ok screw it, ill just do the MiniDSP as Im sure the simplicity of the others would get old quick anyways. what else will I need to help EQ this thing right? A lil mike mic and REW on my PC? where do you find good test tones or whatever to do that? is there a tutorial on this stuff somewhere on here? haha, too many questions. Did i Mention you guys are awesome!?!?!

ok, getting closer then. the 33-2055 has its own mike to read and you just make adjustments in REW per what you see on the meter? and then adjust to those changes for the mini DSP?

how important is the sound card? i would just use the one in my current laptop that would hook to the system via headphone jack.

i unfortunately have vista, but the card on my computer is decent. 3 yr old HP laptop, sound card in there will do digital out and all so I would think this would be ok... any other way around putting in a new sound card?

I think the problem with most laptops (older) is that they lack the line-in port and software functionality on the soundcard and thus have no control over the input signal from the Radio-shack preamp's line-out. This makes it impossible to adjust in REW. My experience even with XP on a Dell (lattitude D800)

Even the UCA202 doesn't work here because the OS doesn't have software functions for the line-in control.

Yes please!!! and build it into a sticky perhaps!

Lilmike, can you post how this models with a 22.5" internal width? I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to make it 4.5" wider.

Thanks a bunch! Looks like I'll go with the original slim version. Cheers!

I think I'm going to forgo the access panel for now. I'm also going to run the speaker wire out the mouth through a hole in the rear chamber. My thoughts are that if I do need to replace the speaker later on, I'll just cut out the access panel at that point. Anyone else thinking of doing this?

I'm also thinking of purchasing a Crown XLS1000 and MiniDSP to power 2 of these F20 beasts. Anyone have similiar or differing opinions in regards to this? Thanks in advance! And, a big thanks to Lilmike and Erich to all of their efforts!

Just ordered the XLS1500 for one yesterday. i will be keeping the other channel open should I decide I need second one in the rear of my theater for balance (haha probably)

Mike, this pertains to cutting the access panel. I made it that far last night and am DYING without internet at home to post pics, troubleshoot etc. I very well could have finished the box last night otherwise!!!

I got quite confused in the instructions on how to cut the access panel out. It seems to me it would make sense to keep the sheet you made all the markings on completely intact and use it as the bottom (if laying down) of the box. Then I would take the second sheet and re-mark the sealed area again using the layout template. Before i did all this I called it a night to see if you had a better suggestion because even if I would have done this, I am still confused as to exactly where you actually make the cut on the top/side panel, ie how does the access panel fit back on and seal right? my thought was to split the difference of the interior panels with the cut so that the access panel will lay down on top of them and can then be screwed in with a slightly angled screw... I looked back at the picture of your on apge 3 or 4 of the thread and it seems your access panel would just float in space somehow (although I know this is not the case) Just very confused about this part, other than that, im smooth sailing.

I also took periodic pics during marking the layout that perhaps you could add to your instructions for further clarification

I would like to see this if you dont mind. I still just cant visualize how to get it to seal up properly once cut.

with the xls1500 and using RCA's to connect, would i need revA or RevB of the miniDSP? any kits necessary to go along with it?

I have some pictures of how I did the flange at home... I will post tonight so be on the lookout.

I read the entire thread, but what pro style amps are people using to drive the F-20s? I have a minidsp on the way along with two of the MFW drivers. Wanting to go cheaper with the amp if possible. Are higher wattage amps usable if you turn them down and does anyone have good examples for me? (sorry not familiar really with pro amp tech) I was thinking Behringer EPQ 1200 or EP 1500 as an example to use? Too much or not enough power there?

I'm also probably going to add a Clark Synthesis Platinum transducer that runs at 160 to 400 watts max to my setup. Would I need to add a separate amp for that, or could I wire the two MFW's together on one channel, and then the CS platinum on the other channel and turn that channel way down? (Like I said kind of new to amp driven drivers)

It has been said in here that mixing and matching subs will leave "mixed" results, no pun intended. I am going to see how well my NHT 10 blends with the f-20 once im done but more than likely will just have the f-20 running solo for a while to get a good idea of what it is capable of by itself should the 10 not blend well, I will build another f-20 to compensate!

I plan to use a Behringer A500 for right now, which is 300 per channel at 4 ohms. But once I have 4 F-20's completed I'll switch to my EP4000 with 2 on each channel.

The EP1500 might be a decent candidate but it's slightly overpowered at 400w per channel. I believe "lilmike" has recommended ~300watts per cabinet.

So will the DVC385-88 give near identical performance to the MFW-15 in this horn.
The reason I ask is I'm in Australia and the MFW-15 might cost a fortune to get down here.
Although the Dayton isn't exactly cheap either at between $260-$270 US ea.

well I've been looking around and the Behringer EPQ900 and the Peavey PV900 both caught my eye. The EPQ900 is putting out 390 watts per channel and the peavey right at 300 watts.

Wait till lilmike chimes in and see what he thinks. I am under the impression that these things are so efficient that even at 250 watts you would be fine. However, if the MFW driver can handle the extra power then the extra headroom is always nice.

I already asked if 1400 watts is to much and I was told it might create SMOKE. Hahaha :-)

Check with ERICH on here and ask for a shipping quote. If he will ship international, I highly doubt it's $190. That's the difference in the price between the MFW and the Dayton (at the price you stated).