Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 8

I'd like to add a couple of completed F-20 pictures. I apologize for the crappy quality as they were taken with an iPhone. But you get an idea of the sheer size of this thing. Its pretty TALL! I am super happy with the ease of the build as I kept a timer of the total hours I spent to build and it took right at about 8 hours to get to this point. I figure theres 2 more hours worth of finish work and shes ready to roll.The driver is breaking in as I type this and I should be doing test tomorrow night.

Yes I'm waiting on a reply but just in case shipping is ridiculously high I was just asking if the Dayton will give me identical performance. BTW I don't have a problem with the price I would pay for the Dayton's at all but if I can get the MFW-15's for a bit less that's even better.

Lilmike, I'm not sure if you mentioned this already but I figured, I would ask you directly.

Did you caulk fill the spaces between the gasket on the MFW? Looks like it won't seal completely without doing so. Just curious if you did.

Thanks :-)

Thanks, Those drivers are all available down here. The most expensive being the Tempest X2 of course. You say it's a monster in this horn, what does it have over the MFW-15 and DVC? For me it would be about $100 more than the DVC and not sure about the MFW-15 yet but probably twice as much.

I am curious if anyone has tried two of these together yet. I have the first one half way built down in the garage and was thinking of a second to help balance. Or maybe it is just me. I will have to hear the first one in position and Get it EQ'ed to get an impression.

Lilmike,

Just out off interest how much bigger would this need to be to get a tuning off about 17hz with a tempest x2 driver or even a shiva.

What input power did you model the tempest x2 on?

Also how important is it on this design to cut the correct angles where the piece meets the next piece. Is it possible to keep the wood straight cut when building this.

cheers

Graham

Exactly why I am getting the xls 1500 So when I available I can get one of these and blow the doors off!!




Im doing the same, building one, seeing how it sounds, then having a second ready to go if necessary


Hey turdle, so you just took scraps and mounted them underneath the access panel screwed onto the side it seems? How do you plan to seal up the access panel door to the rest of the cab?

The MFW's are only $70 a throw and 120db + at 21hz for that kind off money I am thinking off buildiing two and see how it goes. They should still be good for HT even with a 20hz tune and even better for music.

I don't own a circular saw and would probably loan one. I need to go back through the thead and download the sketchup and cut sheet files.

Would this still work ok with 3/4 mdf?

Plywood is really expensive here in the UK. Are there any particular types off ply that is more suitable than others. I have never used ply before.

I have found this stuff.

http://www.building-supplies-online....uce-3582-p.asp

Not cheap. I don't mind mdf or the dust. If this would be fine in mdf that would be ok to me. My current subs are very heavy so these would be a breeze in comparison.

you want to make sure that you have something that is going to be the most resistant to warping over time, and is strong. Birch, and auruco plywood seem to be the favorites. I used aruco ply for mine and it truly is much easier to work with than MDF

Mike, thanks for the additional drawings, it is smooth sailing for me now so stoked to get home and get to work on this guy. im already envisioning buying three more sheets for box #2 with a set of tempests. MMMMM

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably just squirt in some basic over the course tile and window caulk. I figure it should be just fine.

WOW! The Tempest has a good bit to offer. The question is if the extra money is worth the extra DB and if you will use it in the real world once the sub is properly calibrated???

Either way, the extra 6db would scream!

Exactly as you described.... Once you cut out the Access Hole in the side panel, per instructions you will have a 3/4" overhang to attach boards too. Just cut 4-1.5" wide boards with scraps to the specific length (they don't have to be perfect as the PL Premium will do its job). Just apply the PL to both sides where it will make contact and from there you will just insert a few screws and it will pull it tight. Just be sure to wipe up the PL squeeze out as if you don't the panel wont have a flat surface to sit on. Once you start the project you will see how it all goes together.

Link to gasket: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-542

And as for installing the access panel door... You just put some speaker gasket down on the flange (try to do this in one piece from start to finish to minimize places for leaking) then just screw the panel down to flange. I don't recommended regular drywall screws for this as they have a tendency to countersink and leak.


I purchased these from Lowe's for $5.97. Due to their design they just pull themselves tight and don't usually countersink. These worked great on a THT project I did.

I do not think my wife would be happy if I built one of these as I am looking at a smaller design of lilmike's......however, the output of this thing is SO INCREDIBLY TEMPTING!

But it would block a window....maybe it could be a "raised platform"

mwahahaha!

I like the T6's and think that as a pair they represent some real bang for the buck in performance.

That having been said...

I drug the F20 into the theater this afternoon. It has been drying for the last 16 hours and should be pretty much ready to go. The key word here is drug. This thing is heavy. There are moments when I am thankful for my size. My wife couldn't have budged it.

This horn has no manners. It is not polite. The quality of the build is crude to say the least. I used up alot of plywood that would have otherwise set in the garage for want of a current project. There is nothing dainty about the sound either. This is not a sub. This is the kid in 4th grade that kicked the dirt out of you every day and took your lunch money. I had it fired up to break it in for a couple of hours and then gave it a bit of juice. I am sure that at some point my heart will start again. It felt like I was smacked in the chest by a 2X4! Nice design Mike. I am sure once it is EQ'ed and set properly it is going to be nothing less than spectacular. I am now looking upstairs at the Living room for a home for my T6's, and the bedroom and kids playroom and garage and bathroom and... for locations for the Anarchys.

If you want to impress your friends and kill anyone that wears a pacemaker this is the horn for you. It pack alot of wampum. Now I just have to drag it out the back door onto the deck tomorrow and give it a coarse sanding and a coat of flat black latex. This thing has taken our theater to a new level. Breathless, effortless Bass.

That is the coolest way I have seen anyone describe the difference between a FLH and a TH in this forum. Bravo!

Mike,

This is the guy I'm holding out for; understand this one is further-out.

If you have not sourced a driver yet, and have a target driver in mind, please ping me via PM. I'd like to contribute to the cause.

You and Erich are assets to our community and shouldn't eat these investments alone.

Larry

I was thought I was going to build a mess of Anarchys for my HT. But now you guys have come up with this one!

My dedicated HT is 17x26x9 with an attached hall for a total of about 4,400 ft^3. I'd guess two would absolutely kill my poor little B&W ASW1000. Is four overkill? I'd use a B&K AV5000 MKII that I have lying around - it's rated at 145x5 into 4 ohms. Also plan on using a MiniDSP.

Good stuff - you guys rock!