Behringer Inuke DSP - Page 3

I don't know this sofware at all and have not even checked it out. But to me it looks like you may be using crossover filters in the amps DSP. If you are hooked up to an AVR you definitly do not need the lowpass filter at all. Turn it off, the low pass signal is handled by the AVR. If you want to use the high pass at 20hz for driver protection, use a different type of filter. If available i would recommend a steeper filter that will not cut as much right at the crossover frequency.

Subwoofers aren't responsible for sound in 200-400hz range. Your AVR LFE and Crossover settings sound fine. I personally like 80hz all around, but I have full tower size main speakers. Some people get up in arms if you don't set the LFE to 120hz, but I've found I generally like all subs' sound better when the LFE is set to 80hz or at least <= 100hz.


NO way! My JTR Captivators are here to stay Previous to the JTR Captivator pair I own now, I did own a pair of SVS PB13 Ultras. I definately prefer the Captivators.

Here is an example Parametric EQ you could try and see if you like it. If you think there is too much low end you might even use one of the remaining five unused PEQ filters (I've engaged three in my screenprint) to lower the output at say 20hz by a dB or two -- that'll start a slow swing downwards starting at about 30hz. Optionally if you just want a high pass filter engaged take a look at the settings on the second screenprint. You can engage the high pass filter at 20hz with a 48dB/octave slope and it works about the best I can figure out - you loose a couple dB at 20hz, but it's not bad. You do not want to engage a low pass filter --- let your amp do that with the LFE setting you choose. These aren't the settings I'm using because in my room with my subs positioning I already have a up slope curve from the lowest frequencies. I've not really configured my unit at all yet...just left everything stock at current.

Thanks Archaea and RDKing. Putting low pass filter in OFF and setting EQ in Butterworth at 48db helps a lot and i really mean A LOT!!! Now I have a better idea on how to EQ the sub. I test also butterworth at 24db and I feel it sounds better. But needs to test more. I also add the filters as you said; just I add 50hz filter with +2 db and it makes a better mid bass. This Inuke really works and best of all you can change settings live. Very nice.

Subscribed.
The 1000dsp doesn't cost too much, and I'm thinking of using it for my speakers.
I especially like it because it lets you use a 12db high pass crossover, while other producers only have a 24db crossover.

There's a 15% off coupon today at guitar center. If anyone is interested in an Inuke.

coupon code game46

I sure like my dsp 3000. (though I did just buy a crown xls5000 that I'm toying with ATM)

Inuke DSP 3000
$400 - 15% = $340

Inuke 3000
$300 - 15% = $255

Inuke DSP 1000
$300 - 15% = $255

Inuke 1000
$200 - 15$ = $170

awesome, but you should put that in a new thread, so it will get more attention!

Hey buddy, I was researching the 6000DSP today and ran across the CHT iNuke thread trying to find some more detailed info. Is craigsub banned from AVS or something? Guess that is more of a rhetorical comment vs. a question as I’d rather not to get into forum politics.

Anyway... I always dread bringing up old threads, but after an extensive AVS search this appears to be the thread to ask my questions. Plus I'd prefer to be able to reference the information I need here on AVS in general.

The independent iNuke nu6000 bench test referenced in the CHT thread seems to provide more technical data than I really care about, but the one take away I got from the frequency response test was that it maintained a relatively flat response from 10Hz up to around 22KHz.

Ok, on to my pointed questions.

1. Has anyone tested these out with some serious ULF content that us DIY guys are always striving for? I’m sure 10Hz response is respectable for 75% (<-- totally subjective) of even us DIY’ers, but has anyone tested their response below 10Hz? If so, a link or reference would be awesome.

2. Would the DSP feature be even remotely relevant if one was to have another EQ method, along the lines of a MiniDSP or SMS-1, in the chain? Saving $100 would be nice...

My FP14K Clone is acting up on me and I’m thinking of picking one of these up from guitar center just to try it out on my LMS-U’s. If anything, just to have a reference point to gauge the performance of my Clone. In all likelihood I’d probably return it after my Clone gets repaired.

Just weighing options at this point so I’m not bassless during the Clone down time...

you don't need the inuke dsp if you have a mini dsp. they'll do similar function.

i think the inukes are capable amps!

how it does below 10hz i dont know.

another amp i'd take a look at is the $800 cerwin vega 5000 watt amp from guitar center. using coupon codes it can be had for$680. its an old style 3u 80lb beast.... how it does below10hz i dont know.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Cerwin-Vega-CV-5000-High-Performance-Professional-Power-Amplifier-H69833-i1688723.gc?source=4WWRWXGP&cagpspn=pla

15% off coupon code = cday15

Inuke is high pass filtered at about 10Hz. You can see that it is rolling off in the measurements and about -2dB at 10Hz. It will be very sharp below there. This is similar to the roll off with most modern Crown amps and a lot of others. Nothing out of the ordinary.

I have the 6000DSP currently powering a dual opposed LMS-R 15 setup. I have also used it with a pair of LMS-U's though, so I can possibly be of some help.

I have not specifically tested it with <10Hz, but have noticed no perceivable difference between the inuke and the ep4000's when it comes to ULF, if that helps

I don't use many of the DSP functions, but find the delay feature quite useful in my situation. I would think the DSP version wouldn't be needed if you have a MiniDSP, which I am planning on getting sometime.


I originally got the inuke as a stopgap for a lab clone, but have held off buying one while the issues persist. I also have not got around to wiring some dedicated 20amp lines in yet, another thing holding me back. At this point I'm not sure if could make use of more output, especially when I consider the fact I am finishing my second dual opposed LMS-R sub sometime shortly.


In my setup I have the inuke powering the LMS-R's, and 2 ep4000's powering the LMS-U's. The choice for which amps powering which subs was made only from convenience of wiring and positioning at the time of setup. I can pretty easily switch the power sources from each set of subs, or even do 1 channel of the inuke vs 1 ep4000 onto each ultra. If you have any specific configurations or ULF tests you'd like me to try I can give it a go. I have a RS SPL meter, and maybe could pull out the REW rig again - but that is uncertain as I've changed PC's a bit since last running it.

Thanks for the reply man!

I think I am just going to scoop one up after work today to try it out. I don't think I'll have one of those "ah-ha" moments until I test it for myself. I'll just cross my fingers that it will slip by the wife...

This thread has been resurrected at the perfect time for me. I am in the process of looking at how to power my proposed sub stage. I have ditched the SSD and the SP4 idea and decided to look at the Q with shorting ring option. This leaves me with the power options.

I have read through the entire thread about the bench testing of the NU6000DSP. An alternative being a pair of EP4000 and a MiniDSP. I have read just enough to be confused. So here are my questions;

I have read about there being some issues with connecting a pro amp directly to the LFE output on several different AVR's. I currently have a Yamaha RX-V2400 running a single 15" Titanic kit with the provided 1000w Dayton amp circa ~8years ago and have never noticed any disparity concerning volumes increasing at different rates.. Will the built in DSP on the NU6000DSP take care of the seeming non linearity when using the AVR volume control with respect to the subwoofers output? From my understanding people have had success in dealing with this by using the MiniDSP with balanced output to boost the voltage output of the typical AVR.

If the above issue still exists with the NU6000DSP, can the issue be properly addressed with my second option of a pair of EP4000's and the MiniDSP?

Although this may not matter as I am not sure I will ever see 10Hz in my room, I am curious to see where the NU6000DSP runs out of steam in that region when compared to the EP4000.

Chris

whatever issues are going to happen with the inuke will more than likely be the same of the ep4000. IF you get all this and are not getting enough voltage off your AVR, youll just simply have to purchase a signal conversion box. it takes an RCA in, and boosts it to XLR pro level out. There are many types out there that you can utilize, and I can help when you are needing to choose one as I have several just sitting around right now

I had zero issues playing 8hz sine waves on the 6000, the room shook with a subterranean rumble, the subs peaked, there was no 'sound' indicating very low THD. Plenty of power there. I also played 1-120 hz sweeps, cone movement picks up right at 1hz, although obviously just a visual effect. The very first infrasonic bass sensations would manifest between 4-6hz. No clue what the SPL was. I know I could easily bottom out the woofers at those frequencies if I ran full power, so with a good EQ I figure an iNuke 6000 is capable well into single digits. The most important thing is it moves the cone silently - no audible distortion at the lowest freqs.

I did have a chance to use the 6000DSP with a Sony AVR (STR-DH810) and I found it interfaced perfectly, I had no issues with playing single-digit Hz nor did I experience any uneven volume scaling. I used an RCA to XLR cable from Guitar Center. Sony says their sub pre-outs are 2V/1kohm, not sure how that compares to other AVRs, it played bass as loud and clear as I'd ever need.

One thing about the DSP version of the iNuke - it gives you the option of increasing gain in the DSP. Using a mini DSP seems like an even better option, since it processes in 28 bit and can convert the unbalanced input signal to balanced output, as filtor1 mentioned, that solves the issues with interfacing with pro amps. I really need to get myself one of those. but there is no issue hooking up a modest Sony AVR to an iNuke, so I would hope they would be even better performance if a higher end receiver was connected.

edit - Importantly, I'd get the same response curve time and again from REW, regardless of the volume level, so there was clearly no non-linearity at work.
Edited by imagic - 10/4/12 at 1:15pm

Thank you both for the responses. It looks like I will go ahead and get the NU6000DSP as soon as I can recover from buying the drivers.

Chris

Of course Guitar Center does not stock the iNukes at their brick and mortar locations.

At least they are willing to take returns at their B&M locations...

-3db@15hz and 2kW before blowing fuse/breaker/shutoff. Not super impressive, but for the price you can't complain. Just a touch better than a EP4k, and you get EQ/XO.
Seeing those spikes, the lack of PFC is a bit concerning, wouldn't want to put a delicate pre-amp or computer on the same leg of house power.
Wonder how it compares to two channels from a 10000Q? Are there any bench tests of these clones?

I've enjoyed my Inuke DSP 3000, and it puts up a good show right to the very limits of constant clip lights against even the likes of a Crown 5000 watt amp.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1415823/2-dayton-titanic-mk-iii-15s-or-1-tc-sounds-lms-r-15/100_20#post_22583001

If you match it well to your subs --- it's a great offering.

New member of the inuke6000dsp club. For $425 I couldn't resist. Just opened it up, plugged in it's playing my 2 CHT 18.2 subs very well. Have not messed with the dsp functions yet but will in the near future. I do think the fans are pretty loud.

Quick question. I have the XLR in into channel A but it only outputs to channel A. Isn't there a way to have one in and have the output on both speakers (output A&B)? I couldn't figure it out so I used a splitter into input channels A&B.

Yes it's possible SeaNile,

You have to use the DSP (hook the amp up to your laptop and load up the software which you can download from Beheringer's site. On the first screen you can change the mode to output to both A and B channels from the sole input of A channel.

Thanks. I'll look that tonight.

Check out their new amp
http://www.behringer.com/EN/products/NU12000DSP.aspx

Use biamp.

ZOMG!

Holy !@^!@^! 6000 X 2 !!

Damn, that has some potential!

Looks like that would be be bridged option?

Yeah, more like 3800 x 2, but still.

iNuke math is so easy, RMS = 2/3 'rated power' +/- a few watts - This looks good enough that I need to get it. I wrung every last drop of power out of the iNuke 6000DSP before I blew it up with an accidental 2 ohm load. The 12000DSP would be perfect for the amount of subwoofers I have. The only other issue is I need to call an electrician to prep my room for such a thing - time for a dedicated 20 amp line, my first. In anticipation. Now lets start a petition for Behringer to make their PEQ and other DSP adjustments start at 10Hz instead of 20Hz.

Exactly, still not bad for a small and lightweight chassis!

Is there an ETA on it and it is 120V?
Edited by jpmst3 - 1/28/13 at 7:05am

If you’re paying for new wires why not it just run a 30a? I think the nu6k can trip a 20a breaker.

Yeah, no math was harmed in the making of that post...3800 is a guess based on double nu6k's. That still ends up being 950w x 8. The perfect match for an octuplet of SI 18's.

Because my system is on the third floor of a Philly row house that I rent and my neighbor already hates me (thankfully I live on a corner so I only have one 'attached' neighbor). If I get the line put in, it needs to look like any other outlet. I've already got 95% of what I need coming from a 15a line, the 20 amp circuit would be for bass, and peak power would still only be a transient. So as cool as a 30 amp line sounds, 20 amps is practical/sufficient for me.

I've been doing some research on which amp to get for a pair of Noesis 212HTs that are supposed to arrive in about a month.

I need a high pass crossover around 60-80 Hz for the Noesis, and an iNuke with DSP seems like the most cost effective solution there is. I was also thinking about an EP4000 and the balanced MiniDSP box, but the iNuke should be cheaper. Would it be advisable to get an iNuke for my application, or is there something else out there that would be a better value, and be a better amp for 60 Hz on up?

I've heard from a couple people that amps don't make much difference in terms of sound quality. Ideally I'd like to do the DSP in my computer's CPU with Virtual Audio Cable, ASIO4ALL, a VST host, and a plugin, but I have latency issues that cause pops and clicks in the sound. Not sure I can get rid of them, although I should troubleshoot what's causing it. The iNuke or the EP4000 and MiniDSP seem like what I'm looking for, for now, until I can get a new computer and hopefully alleviate those issues.

Also, if I get an iNuke, I'm thinking the NU3000DSP is the one I want for these Noesis?

Let me know what you think, thanks!