Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 54

I know folks like to beat up on Besy Buy, but if your certified your certified, those guys go through the same training as everyone else, I don't work for Bestbuy or even go their often but really they do receive their training from the same place...now granted some folks will be better than others, but that is true in all aspects of life and work....Now for me I'd never let someone else pick the projector that I am going to be watching for Hours based on what they are familiar with, thats just me, I want the best bang for my buck and has the BEST picture to me and my viewing habits

While I can't speak for the Infocus and how easy it is to calibrate I can speak for the Mits and they have done a wonderful job in making it very straight forward and easy to setup for calibrators. In the end you have to choose the technology that you want to go with...and it looks like you have settled on the 3010, I would never switch from single chip DLP to LSD, I mean LCD ...but hey that's my opinion, I like all of the benefits that single chip DLP gives me...one thing that your guy will never be able to correct is three chip (insert flavor of the month here) convergence issues which most LCD if not all have....Good luck and enjoy your 3010


Now we return back to the Mits HC4000 thread, already in progress....

Yeah..ok..looks as though you've read too many sales Ads.
Hey if you believe you're taking a step back going from a 3010 to a 8700. I have some land in the everglades I can sell you for cheap!

Enjoy the world beating 3010!

....rofl....that was funny

Hey all,

I am sort of bummed that nobody responded to my questions here. The second one is really bugging me. Is it because people do not know the answer, or because they missed the questions? I thought I would bump this post just to see.

Is it okay for me to do this (bump a post)? I hope I do not offend anyone.

Have a fantastic day!
Jim

I did not notice anything like you posted, I have seen BC have some effect, but I always run with that off....I would lean towards your screen....but not really sure...

I ordered my HC 4000 yesterday and then realized that I need a mount for it. Does it accept a standard universal ceiling mount? Any mounts recommended for as tight to the ceiling as possible?

The solution is to use a colorimeter so you can determine if it's just the way you perceive it or if it's actually an issue. Otherwise I'd guess it's a gamma issue maybe. Which gamma are you using?

As for the first question, they are settings to match the projector to the source's black level output. In general you'll be okay if you just leave it at default and calibrate the projector's brightness and contrast to get the full range.

Thanks guys for your comments. It sounds like the setup function is basically doing what I thought so I will leave it off.

As for the issue on the non-smooth gradation in the whites, I am still trying to figure it out, but haven't had a lot of time to play. Since none of you seem to be seeing the same thing, I will do some more troubleshooting. I am certain it is not my screen since I did not have this on my Benq. If I remember right, I think my gamma is set on cinema mode, but not sure if I remember the options correctly at this time....

Using a colorimeter sounds like a good idea. The one I got recently for photo-editing on my computers supposedly works for projectors, but I have not had time to try it out and this would be a good excuse to see if it works well. I think I may try a few more of the menu options to make sure it is not some stupid user error where I turned something on or off that I should not have. I will let you guys know what I figured out if I do figure it out.

It has three mounting points. Just about any universal mount should work. I used this mount. It works fine. I don't know if you can find another mount that would hug the ceiling more. If you get too close, I'd be concerned about heat.

Do you have 8' ceilings? There's a pretty big offset, more than I was expecting. It might be a little late, but if you haven't done so, you might want to use their calculator to determine placement.

Thanks. Yep 8ft ceiling so I am trying to keep it as high as possible. The 18" drop is certainly inconvenient!

On my old projector, I used a homemade mount that was about 2 inches from ceiling to mount surface. I had wanted my screen as close to the ceiling as I could. However, it was kind of difficult to adjust the tilt, yaw and left to right position of the projector. Therefore with my new HC4000, I decided I wanted to order a new mount that was more easily adjustable but still low profile.

I did some basic research and it was hard to understand how low profile each of the mounts are. I ended up ordering the Peerless PRG-UNV http://www.amazon.com/Black-Precisio...8631337&sr=1-1, because it looked like it was low profile and it had really good reviews and seemed easily adjustable.

I actually was surprised when I got it. It was larger and more solid than I expected. It is really well built. It ended up being about 4 inches from ceiling to mount surface which was more than I wanted, but since the offset of the HC4000 was so much, I figured two inches wasn't much more and I had to move my screen anyway.

The mount really seems to be universal and I doubt you could find a projector that wouldn't work with this mount unless it was too small and the mount holes were too close together. By adjusting the length and position of the mounting arms, I was able to get the center of the mount to line up really close to the center of the lens even though the lens of the HC4000 is offset to one side. I had put a 2x4 support beam in my ceiling along the center-line of where my screen would be because my previous projector had a centrally located lens, and I wanted my lens to be in the center of the screen. I was wishing I would have put up more beams side to side, to allow for shifting the mount side to side, but ultimately did not need to because this mount had enough adjustability.

The mount has two bracket pieces. One piece mounts to the ceiling and the other to the projector. There is a bracket where you just slide the projector piece into the ceiling piece and then lock it in place. It is pretty easy to take the projector on and off. The ceiling piece also has mounting holes that allow you to twist the mount to adjust your projector left to right in case you didn't get everything lined up perfectly parallel. When I got mine up, the projected image was about 1-2 inches off to the side and luckily there was enough play in the mount that I could twist it enough to get it in the right position without having to adjust the mount screws. That would have required me to slide the projector off, loosen the screws, slide the projector on again and twist the mount until it did line up, etc etc. I did not need to do that since I had gotten it close enough the first time.

The tilt and yaw of the projector was really easy to adjust with two screwdriver like adjustment knobs attached to the ceiling bracket. I was able to take my old mount down move the mount location closer to my screen and put the new mount up in a pretty short time. It took me much longer to put up my first homemade mount. I think this was a really good purchase as long as 4 inches is not too much for your low profile mount.

I hope this helps.

Jim

This mount http://www.mountdirect.com/LFM_Proje...lack_p/lfm.htm was mentioned earlier in this thread and only drops 2.5". I have an 8' ceiling and will probably go with this mount based on the review in this thread.

With a 8 foot ceiling and 92inch screen and this mount, how many inches above the ground will the bottom of the image be?

I have the Chief RPA mount which has a similar two piece design. To fine tune the left/right adjustment; did you just leave the screws attaching the base to the ceiling slightly loose (even after you finished the adjustment). That's the problem I'm having, you loosen the screws, put the projector back up; twist to align, then when you take the projector back off to tighten the screws you invariably end up messing up the alignment again. Any tips?

I would like to know this too. Can someone please help?

Check out this link. http://global.mitsubishielectric.com...s/prjcalc.html

Sounds like you are seeing the same thing that i saw on mine. I returned one and the second one was the same way. I contacted Mitsubishi and after some time on the phone they finally said that it is just the way it is. I ended up sending it back for a refund and went with another brand.

thanks for the link. The screen will be 2 foot above the ground. I dont understand why they make these projectors with such a horrible offset. Looks like I need to look for a different projector.

That's subjective.

I LOVE the offset of the HC3800/4000. I like having my PJ as high up as possible, out of sight, furthest from head (from hitting it and noise), and it's also less visibly distracting.

Now I don't have basement height ceilings and I'm not trying to run a Huge image, so it works out for me. Even so, my PJ lens center is still 15" from the ceiling, I actually wish there was MORE offset! But you can't please everybody

I wanted a Benq W20000 badly a few years ago (Benq had some killer refurb deals at the time), but the offset wasn't big enough on that PJ for me. I woulda had a huge PJ hanging down in the middle of the room like a big Piñata

Remember, there's people that mount PJ's in their living room which have higher ceilings than basement HT's, and there's people (like my boss) who just pull it out and table mount it....both cases work better with some offset.

I'm looking at 2' above the ground also. It shouldn't be a problem for me since I only have 1 row of seating. Much higher and the screen would be too close to the ceiling I think.

Same applies here....... my HC3800 has the perfect offset for my situation. It fitted perfectly in the place vacated by my old NEC HT-1100g a couple of years ago. This offset places the projector high up on my ceiling out of sight, with the screen 36" off the floor.

Its much easier to have a mount extension if your ceiling is too high than moving your ceiling above 8 feet. I think Mitsubishi lost a ton of potential customers because of this ridiculous offset.

you bet they did
they lost my bussiness

intoran - thanks!

I'm gonna try to make it work. Still waiting to hear what the offset will be for the hc7800 however. I do have second row seating but I have a 8" riser. With my current setup I only have to move the screen down a couple inches so it won't be very different.

The offset is what it is..all of the DLP low end wise are all in the same ball park...nature of the DLP beast...if you want or need lens shift then go with a BenQ w6000 or a much higher price infocus....I have low ceiling heights and wanted a 106" diag, ended up having to tilt and apply a couple of click keystone..picture looks great...never a second thought since I think it throws the best picture for the $$....

How does the RS45 compare to my friend's 35? Is it just the latest revision of that projector, or is it a real step up

edit: Nevermind, answered my own question. RS35 should be superior, as even though it's 2 years old, it was their top of the line while the RS45 is the starting point. Wonder what the real-world noticeable differences would be.

and if I think I read it somewhere, it will only offer "basic" CMS, really...why in the world would I pay for that and not get a full CMS....that just rubs me the wrong way...but thats just me

Here is a link to some of the upgrades from the RS40 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...359464&page=11

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