Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 56

Sort of, but the keystone doesn't make it more clear, you got the tilting of the mount part correct.

When you tilt a projector image, the image becomes angular, hence it becomes trapezoidal, but then when you apply the keystone, the keystone corrects the distorted angle.

Here is the twist, the picture was actually slightly sharper even in the distorted angle form, the keystoning corrects one problem in exchange to add another.

That said, you can get away with a little keystoning (I'd say 2-4 clicks, 5-10 for the much less picky people), and you'll be absolutely ok.

Yah, and the Mits has a different type of sharpness, when the keystone distorts the sharpness, it is fairly even, the light is still tight, the distortion is just a sort of tight bolded effect.

With LCD, you get a different type of distortion from the get-go, a more fuzzy text effect where the colors aren't lined up.
Now people run from keystone because they hear a loss of 1:1 pixel resolution, and I do understand that to a degree as a loss in resolution sounds pretty scary. You don't want keystone if you can avoid it, but it certainly doesn't make a huge difference in small increments.

The issue is the slight loss in resolution is actually often less noticeable than large convergence errors, because the Mits distortion from keystone is very even and predictable. That said, I'm not sure all keystone correction is as good as the Mits, it sounds like from some peoples' experiences, the Mits is better than some other projectors at this, not sure why, but I have some theories (as I always do...).

The more time I spend in forums, the less I want to go on about other people's projector choices, but on this I have to say the 8350 isn't a bad projector, but it can't match the hc4000 in terms of POP and even contrast in most scenes. The sharpness is just a third-added bonus.

Some people will still have to go with the Epson for the lens shift, so don't fret, most of you wouldn't think the difference was that huge, and it still produces a nice image.

Small Plug:
For people not aware of what I'm working on, this new PJ calculator is coming out VERY VERY soon, if I don't get the floor mounting done pretty quickly, I may release before.

Sceenshot here, this is what I've been doing nearly every minute of my free time the past 4 weeks.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21087420

I can do the keystone formula, I just need to find some basis that exists for it. I believe they are proprietary to every manufacturer. I have every other possible formula already in my program except H-SHIFT and Keystone, those will occur later on down the road once I investigate more. I think people will really get a kick out of the V-SHIFT and mounting pole auto-shifting sizes and positions as ceiling and screen size shifts into an auto-restriction zone.

I actually am having more fun writing this program, then almost any other program I've ever written, should have written it years ago, just can't wait to get this last part done and the updated release out there...

Yah, luckily the program is already setup to handle fields of proprietary data. Each projector has about 20 mathematical fields for it, and I can add more easily. So I just need to do some hunting once this is done.

True, the best part of the calculator is the automatic mounting range adjustments and true lumens to throw calculations in every major 4-5 modes of a projector.

The hardest formula was definitely the range adjustments. I think people will find it useful that when you adjust the screen size, there are 20+ numbers that change simultaneously in real-time, all 10 lumens calculations, and every mounting calculation, minimum ceiling height, the vertical lens shift range, and the offsets, screen position markers, and even the throw range, etc...

I don't ever want to program that formula in again, I'll tell you that right now...

You can shift a movie in 2.35 format up or down within the picture within the 16:9 area when projecting onto a 16:9 screen. In other words, you can get rid of 1 of the 2 black bars if watching 2.35 content on a 16:9 and this can be done from your couch without getting up and doing ANY physical adjusting of the projector's position or zoom. However, this didn't do much for me, I'd rather use a different method personally.

Since there is no MOTORIZED zoom method or LENS shift, in order to get 2.35 with no bars on a 16:9 screen, and get back to 16:9 later without bars as well, you would have to buy a motorized screen.

Also, not sure I follow the question exactly, sounds like you want to use a 16:9 screen, but the beginning of your question you said you wanted a 2:35 to help with the ceiling.

You can get a blu-ray player or an external video processor that allows more mode transitions, but these are digital tricks and all have concessions such as losing part of the image. You can use distorted stretch modes that come with the Mits, but then the picture looks too tall or too wide (you know like looking at yourself in a funny curved mirror).

You overspill them on a black wall?
I can barely see them in a dark room.