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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 75

post #2221 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ir bass View Post

I'm new with a projector so, the HC4000 is my first projector. I got it 3 weeks ago.

Question:

Lamp low mode - Image Sports
Lamp low mode - Image cinema

Will sports affect the lamp life?? because is more bright.

Or the only thing will matter is the lamp in low mode?

Thank's

Nope anything in low lamp mode will be the same lamp life...although you will have to play around with the settings to see what you prefer...out of the box, cinema with BC off will give you pretty close to 6500K greyscale and should look the best, video and sports start to push green too much for my taste, to get the higher lumen output...just grab a test disk and set your brightness and contrast and you should be pretty close using cinema mode.
post #2222 of 2855
Just wanted to say Merry Christmas!!!!! Hope everyone has a good holiday!
post #2223 of 2855
I've got about 1500 hours on mine now, it's still amazing for the money. The brightness is down a bit now, I'd say 15% if I had to guess. No issues whatsoever with both of my units. What's next?
post #2224 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Nope anything in low lamp mode will be the same lamp life...although you will have to play around with the settings to see what you prefer...out of the box, cinema with BC off will give you pretty close to 6500K greyscale and should look the best, video and sports start to push green too much for my taste, to get the higher lumen output...just grab a test disk and set your brightness and contrast and you should be pretty close using cinema mode.

Appreciate it.
post #2225 of 2855
Thread Starter 
There is one area I miss a lot about the Mits compared to the JVC RS-45, well two areas really.

The Mits hc4000's calibration does not drift much over time, a tiny bit, but the JVC drifts quickly. At 70 hours my JVC has a yellow push from extreme drifting. On the Mits the color got better after 100 hours, not worse. The lack of CMS on the JVC is a tad annoying.

Also, the Mits OOTB color is better than the JVC once I viewed enough content across the spectrum. The Mits may not be exactly at D65, but the direction that the colors are off on the Mits is better. Without the CMS on the JVC, you can still get the color pretty good, but it's not as perfect as a post-calibrated Mits was. Some people think I'm crazy for saying the JVC has a yellow push, but I know a yellow push when I see one
post #2226 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Use Mit's calculator link on the #2 post of this thread and/or coderguys calculator: http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Bottom line is it depends on how close to the ground you can have your screen at. You might have to tilt a little and use a little keystone of which doesn't noticeably affect PQ on this PJ with video content. The other option--if you have a fixed screen--is that you can tilt the top of the screen out a little to match any upward tilt of the PJ and avoid any keystoning at all.

I am looking at my first projector and trying to understand the calculator. Let me see if I understand correctly.
Projector: Mits 4000, throw distance 12.5', 106" screen, screen 2.5' from floor, 9' ceiling. Then I need a 6" pole on my projector.

Here is where my questions come in. It says lens is 3" to center of base. Is base the bottom of the projector? It says the pole distance is 6", wouldn't that depend on how thick the projector mount was? Will I have to tilt the projector? What is the proper height to have the bottom of the screen to the floor if it's just one row of seats?

Maybe it's not as complicated as I am making it.
post #2227 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Different mounts have different plate thickness and what not, you'll do the last inch or two measurement manually when you attach the mount and all. The calculators give you a good approximation if it will fit in your room at all, it is not meant for sub-inch precision.

Bottom of screen to floor is around 30" or so but it depends on your seating height and 2.35 vs. 16:9, and furniture (do you recline, or lay down on couch), and all that. It can be 20", it can be 35", etc...

Just get the projector first, project onto wall, then mount the screen after you figure out where you like it. There really is no exact measurement to do it within.
post #2228 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post


Just get the projector first, project onto wall, then mount the screen after you figure out where you like it. There really is no exact measurement to do it within.

I guess that's where my impatience comes into play. I want it all done at once.

I saw in another thread that you would recommend the HC4000 for a first time projector buyer. I want 3d, but I just don't feel it's perfected enough yet. Any other 2D projectors that are good competition for the 4000? It would be for gaming, TV watching and movies.
post #2229 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Not if you care about gaming lag and movies, some projectors are brighter, but unless you are on a really big screen or have ambient light it won't matter. You could look into the Optoma hd33, blacks aren't as good and it's not quite as sharp.

Benq w1200 brighter and just as good for movies but only after intense calibrating with a meter, but lag in gaming. Viewsonic Pro8200 MUCH brighter and just about as good in bright scenes, but not nearly as good in dark scenes, less RBE though, but a few bugs if you get one with the old firmware, not as good color.

For a newb that won't be calibrating, pretty hard to beat the Mits hc4000 even if you went to the $1500+ route. A Sony hw30 is the next step up IMHO, it has even more accurate color OOTB than the Mits hc4000, but there are still a few trade-offs (not as punchy in gaming), oh and it costs 3x the price of the Mits.
post #2230 of 2855
I am almost thinking of my first projector as a disposable projector. With the 4K ones announced this year I would imagine next year we will see more for cheaper with better 3D. I am probably one of the few people who likes LGs passive 3D, but mainly because of the brightness. However, I demoed the Epson 6010 yesterday and I thought the 3D was pretty bright. I am also looking at the Mits 7800, but I hate the glasses, they just look uncomfortable. The Sony is in the picture, but back to the disposable comment. I would feel obligated to keep it longer than a year or two.

Also, is this a DC2 or DC3 projector?
post #2231 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Mits hc4000 has Dark Chip 3.
post #2232 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Mits hc4000 has Dark Chip 3.

Sounds like a good deal then. I don't think many of the new ones in that price range have DC3.
post #2233 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Some do not, but some even cheaper units also have DC 3 (Viewsonic Pro8200, several gaming projectors,etc...).

I personally think DC 3's main use is to reduce the inherent mosquito noise in the DLP image more than it improves contrast. I have seen both DLP DC 2 and DC 3 projectors, and most of the DC 3 ones look a bit cleaner if you look for mosquito noise. The hc4000 was definitely a tad cleaner than the hc3800 I owned (and I had 2 of them since one was RMA'd).

I don't think it makes that much difference in contrast, a little, like 20% or something at the very max, but that is hard to see by eye (you can see it a little sometimes at these low native contrast levels, you wouldn't be able to see the difference between 12,000:1 and 10,000:1 very easily, but you might see the difference between 2000:1 and 2400:1 a little)...
post #2234 of 2855
Happy New Year!!!
post #2235 of 2855
I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with corner focusing on this projector?

At first I thought it was to do with the brightness/color uniformity issues as the corner(quadrant) with the least amount of brightness is where I can never attain focusing clarity.

Even if I ignore the rest of the screen and just aim at getting that problem quadrant of the screen focused, I still can never get it as sharp as that of the rest of the screen can. Best I can get it focused to is about 80%.

The difference in sharpness across the screen from left to right is annoying the hell out of me as its like I've rubbed my eyes and am waiting them to refocus.

Its barely noticeable at small screen sizes e.g. 30" diagonal, but as the image gets larger (I'm using 120" screen) it gets more blatant.

Is this just something I'm going to have to get used to with the HC4000's brightness uniformity issues, or is this focusing issue a completely unrelated problem?
I've already applied for an exchange but I'm worried if the problem exists across all units and I should just take the refund while I'm able to.

Thanks
post #2236 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mossay View Post

I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with corner focusing on this projector?

At first I thought it was to do with the brightness/color uniformity issues as the corner(quadrant) with the least amount of brightness is where I can never attain focusing clarity.

Even if I ignore the rest of the screen and just aim at getting that problem quadrant of the screen focused, I still can never get it as sharp as that of the rest of the screen can. Best I can get it focused to is about 80%.

The difference in sharpness across the screen from left to right is annoying the hell out of me as its like I've rubbed my eyes and am waiting them to refocus.

Its barely noticeable at small screen sizes e.g. 30" diagonal, but as the image gets larger (I'm using 120" screen) it gets more blatant.

Is this just something I'm going to have to get used to with the HC4000's brightness uniformity issues, or is this focusing issue a completely unrelated problem?
I've already applied for an exchange but I'm worried if the problem exists across all units and I should just take the refund while I'm able to.

Thanks

Is it possible the projector isn't perpendicular to the screen?
post #2237 of 2855
Doubled checked there just to be sure I wasn't being a dunce. Definitely not a perpendicular problem. I had that thought a month back, so I dismounted it (ceiling mounted), and aligned it exactly to the projector screen but the same blurriness was there.
post #2238 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mossay View Post

Doubled checked there just to be sure I wasn't being a dunce. Definitely not a perpendicular problem. I had that thought a month back, so I dismounted it (ceiling mounted), and aligned it exactly to the projector screen but the same blurriness was there.

Not sure, it hasn't been mentioned very much if at all that I can recall, most would point to alignment/keystone issue...
post #2239 of 2855
I just setup my new HC4000 (20Hrs on it). Big WOW! Projecting on 106" diag. BOC screen, 13ft throw, total light control room, via HDMI. Base settings for calibration are medium temp, Cinema gamma, BC=off, Lamp=low. However, I find the image a tad dark out of the box. So, I created a HD709 disc and went through the calibrations.

I don't like High Brightness (too green), others too blue.
In Auto/Cinema I do see a red push and bit too much colour (as per projectorreviews), so I plan to tone it down a bit with calibration once I get the brightness/contrast set.

My question is: I find there is not enough adjustment to the black-level and white-levels in the APL patterns. Ie. the range of adjustment doesn't allow me to move below bar 17 on the dark pattern and above bar 235 on the light pattern.

Is this typical of the projector? Anything else I should be doing?

Thanks!
post #2240 of 2855
well, I think I have settled on the HC4000, but wanted to check with you guys on a few things.

Mounting: the screen wall is 6'9" and slopes up to a 9' ceiling. lens will be roughly 11.5' away from screen. According to the mitsubishi calculator, this should work with a 100" screen. This would also require a pole length of roughly 1'. Never had a pj and never mounted one, hopefully I am interpreting the results correctly. Also, what mounting bracket is recommended?

Viewing: we'll sit roughly 11' from the screen. Looks like this is a good distance for 100". Room can be virtually pitch black for movies. But I also will want to watch sports or play xbox with a bit of ambient light (4 sconces on a dimmer switch) at times. Will the HC4000 stand up to this? And what screen color/gain is recommended? I'm thinking about going with the Jamestown. I hear that the gray is better for deeper blacks and may also be better for ambient light viewing. Is that correct? Will the colors still "pop" vs a white screen?

Finally, at what price point would I have to go to find a pj that blows the hc4000 away for picture quality?
post #2241 of 2855
Thinking of buying one of these as an upgrade to my Mits HC1500. Not sure if Mitsubishi is planning to launch a replacement sometime at CES....
post #2242 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Hath View Post

Finally, at what price point would I have to go to find a pj that blows the hc4000 away for picture quality?

About $20,000, some projectors can beat it in black levels by a huge margin, but I'm not sure I'd use the phrase blows away.

At $3000+, the JVC is better for movies, but it's not as good for gaming or sports, or TV, and the motion is better on the Mits (but for movies the motion is probably slightly better on the JVC - well sort of).

Every projector will have trade-offs, my best suggestion is to start with the Mits and get a different type of projector as your secondary purchase later.
post #2243 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Hath View Post

well, I think I have settled on the HC4000, but wanted to check with you guys on a few things.

Mounting: the screen wall is 6'9" and slopes up to a 9' ceiling. lens will be roughly 11.5' away from screen. According to the mitsubishi calculator, this should work with a 100" screen. This would also require a pole length of roughly 1'. Never had a pj and never mounted one, hopefully I am interpreting the results correctly. Also, what mounting bracket is recommended?

Viewing: we'll sit roughly 11' from the screen. Looks like this is a good distance for 100". Room can be virtually pitch black for movies. But I also will want to watch sports or play xbox with a bit of ambient light (4 sconces on a dimmer switch) at times. Will the HC4000 stand up to this? And what screen color/gain is recommended? I'm thinking about going with the Jamestown. I hear that the gray is better for deeper blacks and may also be better for ambient light viewing. Is that correct? Will the colors still "pop" vs a white screen?

Finally, at what price point would I have to go to find a pj that blows the hc4000 away for picture quality?

I have a similar setup, shooting a 106" screen from about 12-13' viewing distance, I have a jamestown grey screen and its a good starter screen, I have almost 900hrs on mine. So hear are my opinions, the grey is a negative gain screen and while the mits is bright I think for most applications a white screen is a better fit (I believe the white will give more punch vs the negative grey screen), in fact I am probably going to swap my screen out and go with a white one, when I get the money to upgrade...ambient light, no projectors handle ambient light very well, if the scenes are bright then you can get away with some, however if the material is dark then it will not be a pleasant experience. I watch sports mostly football and some ambient light does not bother or distract from watching, night games I need a little less light but you can still get away with a good amount. For what you want to do sports, games and movies I don't think you can go wrong with the mits if you can make it work in your rooom...I love mine
post #2244 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by zeinna View Post

My question is: I find there is not enough adjustment to the black-level and white-levels in the APL patterns. Ie. the range of adjustment doesn't allow me to move below bar 17 on the dark pattern and above bar 235 on the light pattern.

Is this typical of the projector? Anything else I should be doing?

Thanks!

You must set the input level option to PC if you wish to see anything beyond 16-235. The Auto option isn't bullet proof, at least not in my setup.
post #2245 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

So hear are my opinions, the grey is a negative gain screen and while the mits is bright I think for most applications a white screen is a better fit (I believe the white will give more punch vs the negative grey screen), in fact I am probably going to swap my screen out and go with a white one, when I get the money to upgrade

hey, thanks for the input.

Have you personally seen the HC4000 with the Jamestown white screen? The thing I worry about is black levels not looking that great. Of course, until I've seen it I don't really know what I'm talking about. I've also read that the white screen is a little quicker to "wash out" with ambient light. Not sure about that either.

Other than those questions, the white screen does seem to be the better option when you consider more "pop", ability to use the lamp at lower settings longer and still be within recommended brightness levels, etc.

And a big War Eagle to you as well. I didn't attend, but have been a lifelong fan from growing up in Mobile. Are you from the area?
post #2246 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Hath View Post

hey, thanks for the input.

Have you personally seen the HC4000 with the Jamestown white screen? The thing I worry about is black levels not looking that great. Of course, until I've seen it I don't really know what I'm talking about. I've also read that the white screen is a little quicker to "wash out" with ambient light. Not sure about that either.

Other than those questions, the white screen does seem to be the better option when you consider more "pop", ability to use the lamp at lower settings longer and still be within recommended brightness levels, etc.

And a big War Eagle to you as well. I didn't attend, but have been a lifelong fan from growing up in Mobile. Are you from the area?

So hear is the deal with the black levels, that is the weak point and I thought the grey screen would help, but after a year with it I think while the grey helps a little I don't think that it helps that much...more important things in my opinion are your parallel walls, your ceiling etc, making sure that they are very dark and if you are watching a dark movie, the room needs to be pitch black. If doing all of those things, I think the white screen will work very well even on dark movies, the blacks are not black but very dark grey, but I do not find them distracting at all....would I like the to be better, sure but for the 1k price point it throws up a great picture...

89 grad - I bleed Orange and Blue
...grew up in north GA, family still lives in north GA, I however migrated north for work....
post #2247 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

So hear is the deal with the black levels, that is the weak point and I thought the grey screen would help, but after a year with it I think while the grey helps a little I don't think that it helps that much...more important things in my opinion are your parallel walls, your ceiling etc, making sure that they are very dark and if you are watching a dark movie,

Yup, screens are passive devices and have no ability to change contrast in an optimal room. They can absorb light or handle ambient light, but a gray screen will not help if the room is already darkened properly, the contrast will be the same but you will just get a darker image out of the bulb, that's all its doing if the room conditions are correct. In a non-optimal / non-bat cave, that is where gray screens can help more.
post #2248 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yup, screens are passive devices and have no ability to change contrast in an optimal room. They can absorb light or handle ambient light, but a gray screen will not help if the room is already darkened properly, the contrast will be the same but you will just get a darker image out of the bulb, that's all its doing if the room conditions are correct. .

The exception being if you are running a small screen, like less than 84" or so. With that small of a screen a gray/negative gain can help tame your brightness and make your black levels acceptable.
post #2249 of 2855
Thread Starter 
True, the above is the alternative to an ND filter. The ND filter causes a bit of loss of contrast to where the gray screen does not.
post #2250 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Hath View Post

well, I think I have settled on the HC4000, but wanted to check with you guys on a few things.

Mounting: the screen wall is 6'9" and slopes up to a 9' ceiling. lens will be roughly 11.5' away from screen. According to the mitsubishi calculator, this should work with a 100" screen. This would also require a pole length of roughly 1'. Never had a pj and never mounted one, hopefully I am interpreting the results correctly. Also, what mounting bracket is recommended?

Viewing: we'll sit roughly 11' from the screen. Looks like this is a good distance for 100". Room can be virtually pitch black for movies. But I also will want to watch sports or play xbox with a bit of ambient light (4 sconces on a dimmer switch) at times. Will the HC4000 stand up to this? And what screen color/gain is recommended? I'm thinking about going with the Jamestown. I hear that the gray is better for deeper blacks and may also be better for ambient light viewing. Is that correct? Will the colors still "pop" vs a white screen?

Finally, at what price point would I have to go to find a pj that blows the hc4000 away for picture quality?

Hey, I just got my Mits and screen last week and have been playing around with different media via HDMI: Xbox games, Bluray movies, computer content, etc. So far I am impressed with everything. Games do not lag, the RBE is only slightly noticeable during credit scenes and the image really does pop out, almost like 3D . Anyway, to add to what the others said, For a mount I bought a Peerless RGP and it is very nice; it is solid and highly adjustable. I would recommend you get it. I'm returning mine b/c I'm having second thoughts about abusing my ceiling (it's a rental) and anyway with an 8' ceiling the image would be too low without keystone, etc. 9' is perfect.

For a screen I would also recommend white, mine is 1.1 gain and I think it's perfect. Also, take heed to what was said about the walls being dark. Mine are semigloss gray and the amount of light reflecting everywhere washes out the blacks a bit, which makes it a bit hard to see where you're going when you're out and about in the land of Skyrim at night. I can live with it for now...

Like what was said before, any non-projector light in the room will not give you the best blacks, but for football and non-dark games having ambient light will not be a problem. I watched the latest Bronco game (awesome by the way) with ambient light did not make it unwatchable whatsoever. Turn on sports mode, BC, maybe standard lamp and you're good to go.

BTW, how do you plan to fit a 100" screen on a 6'9" long wall?
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