Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 78

Actually looks like Jimmy586 cut/pasted that line from the first page (your 2nd post).

Seems like a unfinished post by Jimmy586.....

Hi guys, can you please have a look at hc3800 thread and see my issues with vertical lines, maybe someone seen this on other mitsu projectors


thanks a lot

Any tips/advice/experiences to offer?

My HC4000 arrives tomorrow! Very excited! Along the same line as the questions above, is there a fixed horizontal image shift or does the image come out horizontally centered from the lens? In other words, if I want to have my image centered on a wall, do I mount the projector centered, or with the lens centered (so projector slightly offset)?

Center the lens.

I agree.

I know my lens is off center by about 5 inches (projecting from 12 feet away). I know I should probably center it but haven't been compelled to do so. Been too busy enjoying it as is. No noticeable negative effect on the viewing experience.

Thanks, thats what I figured just wanted to make sure there wasn't a horizontal offset.

Would the zoom not be enough? I remeasured the distance this morning, and the unit could be as far as 12 feet back.

It has nothing to do with the zoom. Its the fixed offset of the projector that would cause your image to run into the floor. Run your numbers yourself and it will tell you where the image will be located vertically on the wall:
http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

JDKruger4, unless I'm missing something, he mentioned a 'table-top' mount, so impossible for the image to hit the floor.


According to coderguy's calculator, you can fill a 119" screen at 12'2", though I usually would allow a +/- 2" variance (didn't check the calculator on the Mits site). Also remember that is from the lens.

Hello,
I am new to the forum, my questions have probably been answered before, but I have done a search and I can't find it, I'd read all the thread but it's much too long! If anyone wants to redirect me to other posts where my questions are answered, please do so.
Questions:
- I am about to buy a 106" screen and I have two places on the ceiling where I can fix the HC4000: In front of the coach, 3.30m (10.8ft) from the screen, or at the back of the coach, aprox 5m (16.4ft) from the screen. In the first placement, the closest, I have to use full zoom in to fill the screen, in the second I have to set the zoom out all the way to get the same width. Which place is better, closer to the screen and full zoom or further with no zoom at all...? I know the middle would probably be the best compromise, but I can't because of the way the ceiling is. According to the calculator in projector central full zoom in gives more nits, better brightness, but I wonder if the image suffers a lot and no zoom is better.
- When I test the projector with no source connected there is a blue screen that is wider than the image when I play a DVD, which image should I use as reference to setup the screen, the blue frame or the DVD image?
Thank you all.

PJ mounted furthest from screen> dimmest, but better blacks (and maybe better contrast).
PJ mounted closest to screen> Opposite of above.

Mid point of zoom> Best part of the lens (best focus uniformity, less CA, etc.)

But, most would not notice these differences unless you have another identical HC4000 side by side to A/B 'em.

Use the 'crosshatch' test pattern in the menu to align your screen.

Hi there,

Just purchased a Mits HC4000.

I've been able to make the projector work through the PC input but not through HDMI.

I tried connecting my laptop and PS3 using two different HDMI cables (3ft) but I only get the "NO SIGNAL" message.
I've read all the troubleshooting information in the manual but nothing worked.
Would you have any suggestions to have this issue fixed?

Many thanks!!!!!

HDTV shots on HC4000:

Anyone using HC4000 with 2.35 and doing the CIH trick for 16:9? How is the picture in both ratios? Later this year Mits is supposed to have some projectors that do it without any compromise.

I'm using this feature and it works well. Where did you hear that Mits is coming out with new projectors that have an improved version of this? The HC9000 doesn't even have this feature. The 7800 does because it's built on the HC4000 chassis. Looks to me like they may be getting away from this very cool function.

Retailer told me yesterday they are supposed to be improving it on future Mits.

Sounds like a reliable source.

The only true way to do this without compromise is to have a motorized zoom and lens shift (with memory) that will zoom out/in for each mode.

The new JVC's do that. So perhaps Mits will be going in that direction....

Has anyone had to deal with HDCP errors when connecting a computer to the HC4000 and using iTunes to purchase HD movies? I am able to watch Blu-Ray movies in 1080p just fine on my setup, so HDCP has to be working. But, for some reason, I get HDCP errors in iTunes when attempting playback.

My setup: 2010 Mac mini (HDMI) -> Yamaha RX-V863 (HDMI) -> HC4000 (HDMI)

The trust chain isn't broken, and I'm not switching from HDMI to component or anything. I believe the A/V receiver passes through the HDMI signals just fine, or else the Sony Blu-Ray player would complain. Also, I use one monitor HDMI cable from the Yamaha, so the cable between the receiver and projector is the same in both instances.

Hello, I'm in the processing of building a house and I'd like to go with a hc4000 projector. My room dimensions are

19L'x16'Wx8H and will have the screen on the 16'W wall so I have basically have up to 18' where I can place my projector. Will probably only have 1 row of seating that can be as far as 17' from the screen. I will put my components in any of the two rooms at the bottom of the room.

I'm using the projector calculator and for a 120" screen it will sit 9.8" from the bottom. Will that work. Can anyone tell me what the best fit for my setup would be? I would like to go as big as possible

Any other recommendations would be much appreciated as this is my first home theater

Everyone kind of has what they like, the numbers look correct, but the question is whether 10" will be to low, that is the one area that you will have to decide, if you had 2 rows then it would be a no go for sure, but a single row is doable, although keep in mind if your seats recline then I think that will make the screen to low when reclined...

I personally have mine up at around 25" or so, other folks have them at different heights...you could also go with a large 2.35 setup that will give you a bigger 2.35 screen although a slightly smaller 16:9 screen, depends on your watching habit, if you watch more movies than HDTV might be something to think about, plus it would allow the screen to be higher off of the floor...there is lots of discussion in this thread if you are interested in doing it...

Hey guys,

I just got my HC4000 last week. I used it on a chair for a few days just playing around with it, then ceiling mounted it. I am still waiting for the screen to come in, so it is just projecting onto a very dark blue wall.

Honestly, it looks good to me even on this wall. I can't believe how white whites are, how red reds are, etc. despite the color of the wall. Actually the orange peel texture ruins the sharpness. If the wall was flat and I could color correct it enough, I might not even need the screen!!!

Anyway, one of the reasons I chose this projector was that this is reportedly a quiet projector (the main reason being lag time as I game as well, almost bought the new RS45). Anyway, even with it on the ceiling in low lamp mode, it is loud for me. I feel I have to turn up the volume too high to compensate, and even still, any quiet scene or pause or fade from one scene to another, it is annoyingly loud.

This is my first projector. Is this just the compromise that must be made to enjoy a large screen? I will keep this projector for a while though, but when I am ready to upgrade, what would be quieter?

Len1978,

How are you getting Japanese TV in HD.

We have the TV Japan channel through ATT Uverse, but it is only boring NHK junk.

Please tell me!

Len1978,

Should have replied to your post directly. Hopefully you will get a message from this post.

Where are you sitting in relation to the projector?

I use a 110" screen and sit about 13' from the screen, my HC4000 is 16' 2" from the screen and ceiling mounted (9' ceiling) lens center is about 10" from ceiling. I do not find the noise from the projector objectionable at all.

Well, 'loud' is subjective of course. Most projectors are audible, but comparatively the HC4000 is quite in low lamp.

There's the possibility that your unit is noisier than other HC4000's (it happens), could be a bad color wheel bearing. It could also get a little quieter as it breaks in.

See if it is any quieter feeding it 24p or 60hz? The different frame rates make the color wheel run at a different speed and usually one speed is quieter than the other.

It is not the color wheel. This is actually my second unit. The first was a used item that was sold as new, this one had that color wheel whine.

This one, which is actually new, does not have the whine, just loud fan noise. I have a first-generation PS3, and I thought that was loud.

My room is small so it is ceiling mounted on a 9 foot ceiling about 2-3 feet behind me. I have a herniated disc right now, so I can't even sit in my comfortable theater room type recliners, so I lie on the floor. Still too loud. The loudness of the fans would be the same pretty much wherever in the room I was.

Bishopt,

I have the read the first 10 pages or so of this thread and now the last 4 or 5. You seemed to be all about a grey screen, even recommending to other people on the fence, and now you seem to have done a 180.

I also just ordered a 110 Jamestown grey screen. I still have time to change to white if I want to, so I was wondering why you have changed your mind.

Deadmaster,

I have an HC3800 which has a little less contrast than the HC4000, but I consider black levels to be the weakest link of both projectors. I feel that a gray screen is really needed to compensate for this. With only a 110" screen you should have plenty of brightness and punch to go with a gray screen and still operate in the lowest lumen mode in a dark room.

-Darrell