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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 79

post #2341 of 2855
For a 8' ceiling what is the highest I can mount the hc4000? Is there another comparable projector will a smaller offset?
post #2342 of 2855
Um...8 feet?

Sorry, couldn't resist. Not sure what you're asking?
post #2343 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

Bishopt,

I have the read the first 10 pages or so of this thread and now the last 4 or 5. You seemed to be all about a grey screen, even recommending to other people on the fence, and now you seem to have done a 180.

I also just ordered a 110 Jamestown grey screen. I still have time to change to white if I want to, so I was wondering why you have changed your mind.

My suggestion is if you can control the light coming into your room I would go with white....especially for that size of screen...IMO you loose to much punch with the grey screen after the lamp settles in, dont get me wrong it still looks good, but I think white is a better fit for 100" and up....if you have a smaller screen like fleaman then I can see going with grey. I'm swapping out my grey and going to go white...but I also have about 1000hrs on mine
post #2344 of 2855
Yeah, I have a .9 grey but it's only a 77" screen.

At 100" I would go white 1.0 gain.

Remember that the larger you go on screen size, the better the blacks.
The smaller you go, the blacks get worse, which is why I went with a .9 grey at my size.

If the HC4000/HC3800 had a manual iris, I woulda just got a white screen.
post #2345 of 2855
Thread Starter 
If the room isn't 100% bat-cave, a Da-Lite high power screen will preserve ANSI contrast and give the impression of darker blacks, but it will be a bit too bright at first (not that bad), so you pair with an ND filter for a few hundred hours. Otherwise, DA-Lite also makes good regular white screens with little visible texture. My main issue with cheaper white screens (sub $150) is they show a texture to the image. If the room has way too much light carpet, or light furniture, or white walls, then a POSITIVE gain gray screen is the way to go. The HP Screen is kind of a middle ground for this type of room. A room with too much reflective light colors will need a positive gain gray screen.

For most almost bat-caves (which includes most rooms), I'd still do the Da-Lite High Power (if seating isn't too tight), and then buy ND filter, use it for 200 to 500 hours, take ND filter off. You get about 1.5 gain with HP screen when a projector is ceiling mounted, but it looks better unless you have all black furniture (I have brown furniture, black ceilings, and one white corner showing, and it still looks better than a regular screen). I've had 4 screens in 3 different rooms now. Retro-reflective does have disadvantages for large viewing parties (more than 2 people viewing at once), up to 4 people can view but some will get a dimmer image if sitting far right or far left of the center.
post #2346 of 2855
For a 8 foot ceiling what is the highest I can mount the hc4000? Is there another comparable projector will a smaller offset?

Yes I meant 8 foot ceiling .. I'm trying to figure out how large of a screen I can get w/o having the picture too low
post #2347 of 2855
Hi Guys,
Here is a question from a newbie: I have a "old" planar 7060 that had a crumple of dust issues and I'm looking for a replacement.
Is there a real improvement to expect by switching to the HC4000 knowing the reputation of the planar for delivering a particularly good image?
I'll use mainly to watch DVDs and BRs from my oppo player.

Thanks!
D
post #2348 of 2855
Thanks for the replies.

Actually the reason why I was thinking grey is because I had it on the wall for just a few days before painting. It wasn't white either, a tan color. Anyway, when there was a scene change from night to day or even inside a building to outside, I couldn't keep my eyes open. I had to squint like when first stepping out of a movie theater into the parking garage.

I don't want it so bright that I can't enjoy it!

Do you still recommend a white or even a HP screen?
post #2349 of 2855
Any comments on fan noise and/or quieter alternatives?
post #2350 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

Thanks for the replies.

Actually the reason why I was thinking grey is because I had it on the wall for just a few days before painting. It wasn't white either, a tan color. Anyway, when there was a scene change from night to day or even inside a building to outside, I couldn't keep my eyes open. I had to squint like when first stepping out of a movie theater into the parking garage.

I don't want it so bright that I can't enjoy it!

Do you still recommend a white or even a HP screen?

Depends on screen size, for anything over 100" with this projector, I'd personally probably do MILD positive gain (1.2 to 1.5), but that's just me. The less gain you do the quicker the lamp will need replaced, but I am a tad bit of a brightness freak.
post #2351 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by $mokey View Post

For a 8 foot ceiling what is the highest I can mount the hc4000? Is there another comparable projector will a smaller offset?

Yes I meant 8 foot ceiling .. I'm trying to figure out how large of a screen I can get w/o having the picture too low

My sorry attempt at humor was to say the highest you can mount anything in a room with an 8 foot ceiling is...8 feet.

So, if you're really asking what's the lowest profile mount you can use + what's the distance from the top of the Mits to the center of the lens; that's about 6 1/4" for me. I have 7 1/2 foot ceilings. Using the Chief RPA mount (there may be slimmer ones), I'm throwing onto a 106" 16:9 screen that's mounted 20" from the ceiling.

Read and search this thread for a shipload of info. Look at the Mits calculator on their website for help, also.
post #2352 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcouvreur View Post

Hi Guys,
Here is a question from a newbie: I have a "old" planar 7060 that had a crumple of dust issues and I'm looking for a replacement.
Is there a real improvement to expect by switching to the HC4000 knowing the reputation of the planar for delivering a particularly good image?
I'll use mainly to watch DVDs and BRs from my oppo player.

Thanks!
D

dcouvreur: As an owner of a new HC4000 (and a former owner of an HC3000) I think you'll be very pleased with an HC4000. One thing you didn't mention is what type of screen you have. I have a DIY 92" 16:9 aspect ratio Wilsonart Designer White screen which has a 1.1 gain and it shows off the HC4000 quite well.
post #2353 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by MauiBoy View Post

Has anyone had to deal with HDCP errors when connecting a computer to the HC4000 and using iTunes to purchase HD movies? I am able to watch Blu-Ray movies in 1080p just fine on my setup, so HDCP has to be working. But, for some reason, I get HDCP errors in iTunes when attempting playback.

My setup: 2010 Mac mini (HDMI) -> Yamaha RX-V863 (HDMI) -> HC4000 (HDMI)

The trust chain isn't broken, and I'm not switching from HDMI to component or anything. I believe the A/V receiver passes through the HDMI signals just fine, or else the Sony Blu-Ray player would complain. Also, I use one monitor HDMI cable from the Yamaha, so the cable between the receiver and projector is the same in both instances.


Looks like I may have found my answer. For anyone that runs across this thread, there is a firmware update for the 2011 Mac mini today that addresses HDCP errors after reboot. Crossing my fingers that this solves the issue.
post #2354 of 2855
Coderguy,

If I leave the projector to low lamp mode, how would the gain of the screen have anything to do with the lamp needing to be replaced sooner or later?
post #2355 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

Coderguy,

If I leave the projector to low lamp mode, how would the gain of the screen have anything to do with the lamp needing to be replaced sooner or later?

I'm sure coder will jump in here but I will give you an answer, gain effects the brightness, so as you bulb ages it looses brightness, so if you have some gain to your screen it will allow you (theoretically) to go longer while having a brighter image, since it amplifies the brightness. So compared to a 1.0 gain screen, the 1.5 or higher screen will appear brighter...make sense?
post #2356 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by MauiBoy View Post

Looks like I may have found my answer. For anyone that runs across this thread, there is a firmware update for the 2011 Mac mini today that addresses HDCP errors after reboot. Crossing my fingers that this solves the issue.

Good deal, post the findings when you are able might help someone else that comes across the same issue...
post #2357 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

Coderguy,

If I leave the projector to low lamp mode, how would the gain of the screen have anything to do with the lamp needing to be replaced sooner or later?

Once the projector gets uncomfortably dim, you will be forced to put it in HIGH lamp sooner than if you had more gain. Hence, with a higher gain screen you can run the lamp in low for a longer period of time. Sure you could theoretically leave the lamp in low anyhow even when it was too dim, but I'm talking with decent brightness expectations.
post #2358 of 2855
OK, cool. Makes sense.

Hmm... I should probably change to the 1.2 white then. The grey 0.8 I believe.

How many hours does it take to kind of settle down because seriously it is too bright right now. Even with projecting on the very dark blue wall, we watched an episode of Supernatural last night - the one from season 6 where Dean gets abducted my aliens. There were a few seconds when the center of the image went completely white and that was just a tad too bright for me.

I don't ever really remember having this kind of problem with normal TVs?
post #2359 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Yah, if not using an ND filter at first, you may need to use a varied calibration and drop the brightness/contrast and gamma below optimal levels for the first couple hundred hours or a tad more. A darker gamma can also help to give a slightly dimmer image (but you'll be living with a non-optimal calibration). Keep in mind that ND filters are cheap and under $50. ND filters are not perfect solutions either, but you only need to use it temporarily when you are on a new lamp until it starts dropping.

Part of the screen decision depends on how heavy of a user you are (how many hours you will spend watching the projector). I mean if you are a 500+ hour per year user and want to conserve on lamp budgets, then it easily makes sense to suffer through a slightly too bright of an image the first couple hundred hours.

The first drop is usually noticed by eye in 100-200 hours for someone with a high perception (some never notice it), the second drop at 500+ hours, but it varies as NO lamp is the same. It is actually dropping at different rates, but your eye cannot see brightness perfectly linearly, and sometimes you just don't notice until you see ALL White or something else and think "wow not as bright as I remember".
post #2360 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

OK, cool. Makes sense.

Hmm... I should probably change to the 1.2 white then. The grey 0.8 I believe.

How many hours does it take to kind of settle down because seriously it is too bright right now. Even with projecting on the very dark blue wall, we watched an episode of Supernatural last night - the one from season 6 where Dean gets abducted my aliens. There were a few seconds when the center of the image went completely white and that was just a tad too bright for me.

I don't ever really remember having this kind of problem with normal TVs?

How close do you sit from the screen that is another factor, and how big is the screen?
post #2361 of 2855
The room's total length is 17'. If I sat in the recliner, I would be about 13-14 feet back, but lying on the floor in front of the recliner, I am about 11 feet back.

Screen hasn't come yet. I initially ordered 110" grey, but I can change either the size or the color by the 29. I am leaning towards changing to white, and slight chance I might change to 100"
post #2362 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by $mokey View Post

For a 8' ceiling what is the highest I can mount the hc4000? Is there another comparable projector will a smaller offset?

$mokey,

I mounted my HC4000 about 3 inches from the ceiling to accommodate a 110" screen. I don't remember the specifics as far as the height of the screen above the floor etc. but I built the mount by cannibalizing a cheap monoprice mount and sliding it into a purpose made aluminum plate I attached to the ceiling. If you respond to this post I will take a few pics to show how I did it.

Doug
post #2363 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by boundermt View Post

$mokey,

I mounted my HC4000 about 3 inches from the ceiling to accommodate a 110" screen. I don't remember the specifics as far as the height of the screen above the floor etc. but I built the mount by cannibalizing a cheap monoprice mount and sliding it into a purpose made aluminum plate I attached to the ceiling. If you respond to this post I will take a few pics to show how I did it.

Doug

You should post the lens center to ceiling distance for him.

$mokey: The only way to get the PJ closest to the ceiling is to mount it upside down on a shelf and not use a typical ceiling mount. If not near the back wall, you could build a platform, say a ply bottom with 4 adjustable poles at each corner. With this you could probably get the lens center to around 3.5-4" from the ceiling.
post #2364 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

You should post the lens center to ceiling distance for him.

$mokey: The only way to get the PJ closest to the ceiling is to mount it upside down on a shelf and not use a typical ceiling mount. If not near the back wall, you could build a platform, say a ply bottom with 4 adjustable poles at each corner. With this you could probably get the lens center to around 3.5-4" from the ceiling.

Good advice...

Ceiling to center of lens = 5.25 inches.

Here are a couple of pics that show the basic mount I made. It will be painted black one of these days... you cannot see the mount while in the room...







post #2365 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

OK, cool. Makes sense.

Hmm... I should probably change to the 1.2 white then. The grey 0.8 I believe.

How many hours does it take to kind of settle down because seriously it is too bright right now. Even with projecting on the very dark blue wall, we watched an episode of Supernatural last night - the one from season 6 where Dean gets abducted my aliens. There were a few seconds when the center of the image went completely white and that was just a tad too bright for me.

I don't ever really remember having this kind of problem with normal TVs?

Have you calibrated it with a Calibration disk? Have you turned off "Brilliantcolor"?
post #2366 of 2855
After buying the hc4000 and being in awe after the installation I noticed a panning artifact. If 50% or more of the image pans I get a horizontal line with a vertical shift of the image. It has never occurred connected to my ps3, but when I use my notebook with the same hdmi cable it appears on the image of the pj but not on the notebook screen itself.
Is there any way to remedy this artifact?
post #2367 of 2855
Sorry to beat a dead horse, but one last thing on the grey vs white screen.

I read somewhere, perhaps the beginning of this thread that even in bat caves, if the room is very small, walls will still reflect light even if completely black. So the argument was that a grey screen will handle this better than a white screen.

My room is smallish (17' x 12' x 9') and yes light reflects a bit of the walls even at this dark color.

White still better? I can still change my order to a white screen today or tomorrow, so please let me know what you think.
post #2368 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadmaster200 View Post

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but one last thing on the grey vs white screen.

I read somewhere, perhaps the beginning of this thread that even in bat caves, if the room is very small, walls will still reflect light even if completely black. So the argument was that a grey screen will handle this better than a white screen.

My room is smallish (17' x 12' x 9') and yes light reflects a bit of the walls even at this dark color.

White still better? I can still change my order to a white screen today or tomorrow, so please let me know what you think.

19X12X10 light controlled room painted medium dark plum color with white AT Seymour Center Stage XD 105" wide 2.35 motorized screen. No noticeable reflections with my set up.
post #2369 of 2855
What's more important is the wall/ceiling/floor surfaces proximity to the screen.

i.e., it would be better to mount the screen on the 17' wall than the 12' wall, since the side walls are further away from the screen.
Also best to not mount the screen too close to the ceiling or floor.

And if you're picky, the back wall (opposite of your screen) would be the wall you could treat with black velvet or black curtains, unless your side/ceiling/floor walls are very close to your screen.

Even if you cover every inch of your room in black velvet, it will still reflect light of course, if it didn't, you wouldn't see the room at all with the PJ on

At 100", a gray might be 'ok' in a small white room when the lamp is new (smaller than your room), but after 200-500hrs or so it might be too dim for the grey screen.
post #2370 of 2855
I have a small L-shaped room, off-white colored walls with medium-dark wood floors and 2ft wide dark brown speaker cloth covering the first 2ft of ceiling near the screen (it covers acoustic bass traps and my electric screen).

I can turn on a 60w light at one end of my L-shaped room (the light is behind were the screen is mounted, not in front like the PJ is), and it can light up the room yet my screen isn't washed out 'cos it's only receiving reflective light, not direct.
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