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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 82

post #2431 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVM View Post

Thx, I am stuck with a portable setup and settling on a elite ezCinema Series 100" screen (F100NWH) with gain 1:1, should be better than my earlier Favi screens. I am not able to find a gray screen in portable that are in the $200 range...

Any suggestions on remote bouncers? Thx

There use to be quite a few out there, rat shack use to carry them but I'm not sure if they do anymore, they were the triangles, use RF to pass from triangle to triangle...then convert to IR on the other side...I buy lots of stuff from these guys since they have a warehouse right next to where I live and they have good prices...http://www.skywalker.com/Products/Ne...__NEX1000.aspx you might also try monoprice.
post #2432 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVM View Post

Thx, I am stuck with a portable setup and settling on a elite ezCinema Series 100" screen (F100NWH) with gain 1:1, should be better than my earlier Favi screens. I am not able to find a gray screen in portable that are in the $200 range...

You might try a neutral density filter to knock down the brightness; would also help protect front lens and obviate the need for a lens cap...
post #2433 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Good find, I will post that link to the first page...Scott is a great reviewer and I think he nails it, it gives you the best bang for your buck that you can get right now.

Includes detailed calibration of HC4000!!!
post #2434 of 2810
Would someone please tell me what the mounting circle diameter is for the ceiling mount bracket? I have a Chief mount from my InFocus 4805 that if the mounting circle is small enough, I can reuse by drilling holes to fit the HC4000. Thanks in advance!

ps
If your HC4000 isn't mounted, you could easily do this...would take about 10 seconds. Just sayin'....
post #2435 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post

Would someone please tell me what the mounting circle diameter is for the ceiling mount bracket? I have a Chief mount from my InFocus 4805 that if the mounting circle is small enough, I can reuse by drilling holes to fit the HC4000. Thanks in advance!

ps
If your HC4000 isn't mounted, you could easily do this...would take about 10 seconds. Just sayin'....

If you have a Chief mount with a custom adapter plate for the 4805 you can order the Chief adapter plate for the HC4000 and use it with your mount.
Link for HC4000 adapter plates:
http://downloads.chiefmfg.com/MANUALS-I/SLBSLM245-I.pdf
post #2436 of 2810
John P: I had no idea the actual "to the PJ plate" was interchangable with the part that mounts to the ceiling. I've only owned one PJ (the 4805), so this is news to me. Thanks VERY much! Man, I love this forum.
post #2437 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVM View Post

Thx, I am stuck with a portable setup and settling on a elite ezCinema Series 100" screen (F100NWH) with gain 1:1, should be better than my earlier Favi screens. I am not able to find a gray screen in portable that are in the $200 range...

Any suggestions on remote bouncers? Thx

at 100" a 1.1 gain should be fine.

For the remote> Check out monoprice.com, they have some cheap Infrared extenders that might work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperVision2010 View Post

You might try a neutral density filter to knock down the brightness; would also help protect front lens and obviate the need for a lens cap...

I've never had any good results with ND filters. Always seems to cut way too much brightness, giving almost gray/dirty whites, while barely making minor improvements with black levels. Just wasn't worth it for me. A gray screen worked much better.
YMMV.
post #2438 of 2810
I went from a x1 to a hc3800. You are going love the upgrade.
post #2439 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

Includes detailed calibration of HC4000!!!

I have a Wilsonart Designer White laminate screen and the calibration figures from the Hometheater magazine article works very well with my screen. I'm very pleased!
post #2440 of 2810
I emailed Chief to ask which model adaptor plate fits the HC4000; waiting on a reply. From what I can glean from their website, the mounts are sold as a set (the RPA ceiling mount part and the PJ-unique adaptor plate). I hope I'm wrong.

In the meantime, if one of you fine gentlemen would be so inclined, it would still be nice to know what the mounting circle diameter is.

If the adaptor plate is going to cost $100, I'll just make my own.

*edit*
I couldn't find it last night for some reason, but found it now. John P had it right. The Chief mounting plate/adaptor plate for the HC4000 is the RPMA245.



Now I'm just waiting on Chief to tell me if I can buy the plate separately from the mount, proper. I've found the mount AND plate sold together at many online stores, but can't find just the plate.
post #2441 of 2810
Found out a few things regarding a Chief mount for our dear HC4000.

1. The RPMA245 I listed above is Chief's new, complete mount for the HC4000. It has a newer style bracket, etc. Same great features/adjustability as the old brackets though.

2. Chief does make/sell just the adaptor plate so you can use an older mount, BUT there are a couple of different ones for the HC4000. It depends on what Chief mount you have (RPA/RPE/etc). The mounts are very different. For my RPA mount I was told I need plate SLB245.

3. The SLB245 is is $100+ shipping (at B&H)

DIY to the rescue! So, I'm going to see if the mounting plate from my SP4805 will fit the mounting circle for the HC4000. Being that I don't own a HC4000 yet, it would be great if someone would measure the mounting circle on theirs. *hint-hint*

Failing that, I do have a model 5466 mount from Monoprice on the way. It was $13 and I had other stuff I needed in that order, so I figured "why not?" Maybe I can get that to fit. Or, I just get a piece of steel plate and cut it to size. I own an air compressor and a grinder/cutoff wheel, so that's doable.

Thought I'd share this with everyone.
post #2442 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post

Found out a few things regarding a Chief mount for our dear HC4000.

1. The RPMA245 I listed above is Chief's new, complete mount for the HC4000. It has a newer style bracket, etc. Same great features/adjustability as the old brackets though.

2. Chief does make/sell just the adaptor plate so you can use an older mount, BUT there are a couple of different ones for the HC4000. It depends on what Chief mount you have (RPA/RPE/etc). The mounts are very different. For my RPA mount I was told I need plate SLB245.

3. The SLB245 is is $100+ shipping (at B&H)

DIY to the rescue! So, I'm going to see if the mounting plate from my SP4805 will fit the mounting circle for the HC4000. Being that I don't own a HC4000 yet, it would be great if someone would measure the mounting circle on theirs. *hint-hint*

Failing that, I do have a model 5466 mount from Monoprice on the way. It was $13 and I had other stuff I needed in that order, so I figured "why not?" Maybe I can get that to fit. Or, I just get a piece of steel plate and cut it to size. I own an air compressor and a grinder/cutoff wheel, so that's doable.

Thought I'd share this with everyone.

I can measure the "mounting circle" of the HC4000 for you, but its actually more like an "mounting triangle" unfortunately. This means from the center of gravity, one hole if front is close to center and the two in rear are further from center. If you want, I can measure it tonight.
post #2443 of 2810
I'd appreciate that, SuperVision2010. Thank you. I doubt the plate from my SP4805 would fit, but you never know until you measure.

I really do not want to spend a c-note on a mounting plate. $40 or mayb $50for the proper plate, sure. But not $100. In the package w/the plate Chief includes like fifty different screws, allen keys, etc. All that drives up the cost of the product. I've got enough "parts" in the garage to build a space shuttle...how'bout they sell me the plate cheap? But nooooo.

Between what I've got and the Monoprice mount I'll be able to cobble something together, I'm sure.

Thanks again.
post #2444 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post

Found out a few things regarding a Chief mount for our dear HC4000.

1. The RPMA245 I listed above is Chief's new, complete mount for the HC4000. It has a newer style bracket, etc. Same great features/adjustability as the old brackets though.

2. Chief does make/sell just the adaptor plate so you can use an older mount, BUT there are a couple of different ones for the HC4000. It depends on what Chief mount you have (RPA/RPE/etc). The mounts are very different. For my RPA mount I was told I need plate SLB245.

3. The SLB245 is is $100+ shipping (at B&H)

DIY to the rescue! So, I'm going to see if the mounting plate from my SP4805 will fit the mounting circle for the HC4000. Being that I don't own a HC4000 yet, it would be great if someone would measure the mounting circle on theirs. *hint-hint*

Failing that, I do have a model 5466 mount from Monoprice on the way. It was $13 and I had other stuff I needed in that order, so I figured "why not?" Maybe I can get that to fit. Or, I just get a piece of steel plate and cut it to size. I own an air compressor and a grinder/cutoff wheel, so that's doable.

Thought I'd share this with everyone.

A quick look on the Mits web site for the HC4000 and I found this for you:
http://www.mitsubishi-presentations....ram_hc3800.pdf

The HC3800 and HC4000 have the same chassis so all dimentions are the same.
post #2445 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Johnson View Post

Review from by Scott Wilkinson at HomeTheater.com
http://www.hometheater.com/content/m...-dlp-projector

Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Good find, I will post that link to the first page...Scott is a great reviewer and I think he nails it, it gives you the best bang for your buck that you can get right now.

'Nailed it' isn't the quote I would think of for his review.

First, he mentions 'poor shadow detail', while we all know, and other pro-reviewers have confirmed, the HC4000 has excellent shadow detail.

2nd, he adjusted the lumens down greatly since he was running a small 75" screen. The only way he coulda done this was with the contrast control I guess. This allowed him to get just 16fL from his small 75" screen (on a new lamp I assume). Then he measures contrast performance in this adjustment and gets a miserable 965:1 number. No kidding.

3rd, he didn't calibrate the gamma, which along with his lowered contrast adjustment (to fit a too small screen), he gets 'poor shadow detail', yet claims to get 'deep blacks', which this PJ is NOT known for (yet he doesn't mention the PJ's he's contrasting this against, perhaps the HD20, etc.?).

He needed to test the HC4000 on a screen of proper size for a PJ that doesn't have a manual iris, and calibrate the gamma for better shadow detail (my OTB shadow detail was not that good on my HC3800), and measure contrast performance when the PJ is not handicapped (calibrated) to run on a screen that is too small.

IMO

From the Review>
Quote:


Contrast & Resolution

Peak white level: 16.4fL
Black level: 0.017fL
Peak contrast ratio: 965:1

When setting the Brightness control, I noticed that the projector did not display below-black in the default setting of the Input Level control, though it did display above-white. Setting this control to Enhanced displayed below-black, but then the Brightness control didn't go low enoughthe minimum setting was still too high. So I set the Input Level to Normal and set the Brightness so I could just barely see a video level of 17.

At the maximum Contrast setting that still did not clip above-white, the peak-white level was well over 16 foot-lamberts, even in Low lamp mode, so I reduced the Contrast control accordingly. The black level was better than other low-cost projectors I've reviews so far, but not enough to yield a contrast ratio over 1000:1.
post #2446 of 2810
Thanks, phxheat. I assume that the thicker, dark circles (one by the lens, two in the rear corners) are the mounting points? If so, there's no way the mount from my 4805 would fit. It's roughly a 4"x6" rectangle. I'll come up with something. Maybe the MP mount will fit?

I spoke with the folks at Electronics-Expo yesterday; they plan to have the HC4000 back in stock in 2-3 weeks. I'm hoping to snag one on EBay for $900. I just missed out on that deal last week. I am Jonesing for one now, though!
post #2447 of 2810
Thread Starter 
This is going to be a long post, so feel free to skip it, but for people wanting the lowdown on shadow detail, this might help explain it..

I measured an almost perfectly flat 2.2 gamma on the Mits hc4000 out of the box. Don't remember what I measured on the hc3800 (owned that one too long ago). As far as shadow detail, shadow detail is 80% native contrast and 20% image processing. The Mits already hits exceptional in the sense of incredibly clean image processing, so we got the 20% covered.

The Native on/off maxes out at 3,000:1 to 4,000:1 at farthest throw, these reviewers never do measure on/off correctly, there are several issues that can occur when trying to measure it. For one, they are often measuring off the screen, I always measure pointed at close range to the lens and near the screen (two separate methods), as well I take the meaurement with multiple devices. I won't go into why the native on/off numbers by reviewers are always so far off base (except Cine4 is about the only one that does it right, and even then they mess up too sometimes), but let's just say the web sites rarely ever get it right.

So shadow detail will be the same generally as other projectors within this same general contrast range. Shadow detail shouldn't even be mentioned in reviews anymore IMHO, unless there is an intrinsic issue with the projector, more than half of projectors now-a-days all have what I want to call "perfect shadow detail for their contrast capability", within the limitations of how well they calibrate.

When reviewers are posting those images and start saying lookie here at the difference in shadow detail, well the only way to get shadow detail to match on two projectors on the same scene is to cross calibrate them at the same time. There are several issues with this test. The best shadow detail test is actually just ensuring the RAMP patterns on a test disc are all properly visible, then you're done, anything else is going to be BIAS in image processing and slight gamma errors and color errors.

Think of it this way, if you have a very dark scene with a tiny bit of shadow detail in a scene, and one projector unusually shows a lot more detail, well half the time it is color error. For one, our colorimeters cannot read below 20% IRE, which means we cannot get the gray-scale perfectly clean in dark scenes. When a color error is added to a dark scene, you get all kinds of side effects, one is improved shadow detail (for instance, some colors are more visible to our eyes over black even at the same darkness). Even a tiny color error that cannot be seen by eye can add shadow detail. Color errors and bias will magically make a scene have better shadow detail (think of it like taking a crayon and highlighting a border, and the other projector is not highlighting because one has no color adding to the scene, hence no error). Because of this and several other reasons, even comparing 5 different dark scenes will not give you a proper analysis of shadow detail, you'd need to use test patterns and meter readings, you cannot judge shadow detail by eye (you are just seeing differences in calibration). Even a perfectly calibrated projector does not track the same at different saturation levels, so it doesn't matter how perfectly two projectors are calibrated (well it does matter, but I mean it doesn't even come close to eliminating error when trying to evaluate shadow detail).

If you want to know the shadow detail capabilities of a projector, it's simple, look at the contrast ratio and that's the shadow detail capability.
post #2448 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Properly testing shadow detail would take so long even with professionally calibrated projectors, that it almost makes me want to laugh when reviewers even claim they tested it. Shadow detail shouldn't even factor into any of the conversations in AVS anymore, unless you want to just talk about OOTB calibrations, then that is fine. Anything else is a fool's calibration and has nothing to do with the shadow detail capability of a projector.

If you want to know the shadow detail capabilities of a projector, it's simple, look at the contrast ratio and that's the shadow detail capability.

It didn't take me long to increase my shadow detail remarkably (w/o affecting black level) on my HC3800. I basically started off with the Sports setting (think it was the 'sports gamma' setting?) and dialed back some of the gamma adjustments for that default, adjusted the contrast/brightness, saved it all to one of the AV memories, and was able to quickly A/B that setting with the OTB defaults in the other AV memories. So far I've always preferred the increased shadow detail perf of my setting vs what I could get with any of the cinema defaults, etc. (even after properly adjusting contrast/bright, etc.). All w/o raising overall black levels.

I can't say that my gamma is 'correct', only that my shadow details are better with no other adverse effects.
post #2449 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

at 100" a 1.1 gain should be fine.

For the remote> Check out monoprice.com, they have some cheap Infrared extenders that might work.



I've never had any good results with ND filters. Always seems to cut way too much brightness, giving almost gray/dirty whites, while barely making minor improvements with black levels. Just wasn't worth it for me. A gray screen worked much better.
YMMV.

Thx, finally orderd the HC4000 should be here by weekend with the screen. After long analysis went with Draper 92" Matt White Traveller Portable Projection Screen (model: 230120), Peak gain 1.0

Looking for some guidence on settings to start with...
post #2450 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

'Nailed it' isn't the quote I would think of for his review.

First, he mentions 'poor shadow detail', while we all know, and other pro-reviewers have confirmed, the HC4000 has excellent shadow detail.

2nd, he adjusted the lumens down greatly since he was running a small 75" screen. The only way he coulda done this was with the contrast control I guess. This allowed him to get just 16fL from his small 75" screen (on a new lamp I assume). Then he measures contrast performance in this adjustment and gets a miserable 965:1 number. No kidding.

3rd, he didn't calibrate the gamma, which along with his lowered contrast adjustment (to fit a too small screen), he gets 'poor shadow detail', yet claims to get 'deep blacks', which this PJ is NOT known for (yet he doesn't mention the PJ's he's contrasting this against, perhaps the HD20, etc.?).

He needed to test the HC4000 on a screen of proper size for a PJ that doesn't have a manual iris, and calibrate the gamma for better shadow detail (my OTB shadow detail was not that good on my HC3800), and measure contrast performance when the PJ is not handicapped (calibrated) to run on a screen that is too small.

IMO

From the Review>

Good points, I like Scotts reviews for the most part, no one is going to be perfect, the nailed part was more for him saying that its about the best you can do under $1500 price range...this is the actually quote:

"Overall, the Mitsubishi HC4000 produced the most pleasing, enjoyable picture I've seen from a projector costing less than $1,500"

I think everyone will agree that deep blacks are not its strenghts, but like you stated you can improve the shadow detail, I have calibrated mine and its a pretty flat gamma, although with 1300hrs on it I need to do it again...
post #2451 of 2810
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

It didn't take me long to increase my shadow detail remarkably (w/o affecting black level) on my HC3800. I can't say that my gamma is 'correct', only that my shadow details are better with no other adverse effects.

Exactly correct, shadow detail on a properly calibrating projector is nothing more than simple calibrations. The issue is when someone tries to compare shadow detail between two projectors in certain scenes and proclaims one to be better than the other. That is the most erroneous way to test shadow detail possible. It can be done, but only after taking so many measurements it is nauseating.

Even the gamma standards of 2.2 to 2.4 are controversial actually, and they are a personal preference.
post #2452 of 2810
I received my Monoprice model 5466 mount yesterday. How can they sell this thing for $13? I am seriously impressed by the quality and completeness of the package. For that money I was expecting flimsy sheet-steel type construction. It's not; it's actually pretty heavy duty and the black powdercoating is well done.

The item page/pics doesn't do it justice. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Though I haven't bought my HC4000 yet there's no doubt in my mind that this mount will fit it and hold it securely. All parts are heavy-gauge steel and the fasteners are appropriately sized for the rated weight load. The arms/mounting tabs move/slide every which way...pretty much infinite adjustability. I think you would be hard-pressed to find a better mount at 4x the money.
post #2453 of 2810
-----------I received my Monoprice model 5466 mount yesterday. How can they sell this thing for $13? I am seriously impressed by the quality and completeness of the package. For that money I was expecting flimsy sheet-steel type construction. It's not; it's actually pretty heavy duty and the black powdercoating is well done.----------

Thats what I thought when i saw mine. I really wasnt planing on much for $15.00. but when i opened the box I was blown away. Sucks people pay $75-$100 for something like this.
post #2454 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by qx56 View Post

-----------I received my Monoprice model 5466 mount yesterday. How can they sell this thing for $13? I am seriously impressed by the quality and completeness of the package. For that money I was expecting flimsy sheet-steel type construction. It's not; it's actually pretty heavy duty and the black powdercoating is well done.----------

Thats what I thought when i saw mine. I really wasnt planing on much for $15.00. but when i opened the box I was blown away. Sucks people pay $75-$100 for something like this.

I paid about $150 for the Chief mount for my InFocus SP4805 back in 2004. It's definitely heavy duty but didn't even come with a down tube (AFAIR). The MP5466 would be a steal at $40, let alone the $13 it sells for now. So, I take it that it fits your HC4000, correct? I haven't bought mine yet, but like I said, with how much adjustability the 5466 has, I don't see anyway it wouldn't work.
post #2455 of 2810
Sorry micheal I have this one. It comes with 4 legs but of course I only used 3. Works great. I had a x1 before the the 3800 so I know how you feel. I really have enjoyed both and would never be with out a projector in my home. All my connections are from Monoprice and my 4 surrounds. I took a chance and saved a lot of money. I used all the spendy stuff on my old room but left it all when we sold are house. So Monopricefor this room. Anyways I got this mount not the. One you are looking at. http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
post #2456 of 2810
Thanks, qx56. I would've gotten the same mount you did, but my application requires a downtube. I have the world's largest ceiling fan right in the middle of my livingroom. I'd rip it out if it was up to me. But She Who Must Be Obeyed said "Um, how about NO?" LOL!

I'm sure the 5466 will work just fine.
post #2457 of 2810
You'll be good. Do you have a thread for your room?
post #2458 of 2810
Quote:
Originally Posted by qx56 View Post

You'll be good. Do you have a thread for your room?

Nope, not yet. My situation is sort of...unique. There's really no way to put this, but to say it like it is. Sorry for the short threadjack, everyone.

Our living room is small. My wife stays home with our 2 year old who watches TV (42" plasma) all day. There isn't any way to put up the 90" screen, hang a PJ, arrange the seating properly, etc and still have viewing access to the TV and have the living room be "livable" for the company/other kids my wife hosts during the day while I'm working.

Except that this summer, she and baby will go visit family for the WHOLE SUMMER in Europe. I'd go but um, I WORK...someone's gotta pay for that trip.

This will allow me to rearrange the room, hang the PJ and the screen, take my "big HT" out of storage and set it up...all that jazz. It's work, sure, but I will have 60+ days of HD 1080P movie madness. Sad thing is it's gotta come down when they get back. My son would Crayola Crayon all over my BOC screen and punch holes in my speakers. Yeah, I'm sure you guys understand.

We'll buy a house next year and I'll have a dedicated HT room (my lifelong dream). Until then, I do what I've gotta do.

/end threadjack

ps
"The Big Home Theater" consists of: HC4000 (will be purchased in the next month), Panny BD35 BRP, 90" BOC screen, Denon 3803 AVR, Axiom M22 L/R, Axiom VP150 center, Axiom QS8 surrounds, SVS PB12+ sub. THX+? Pfft. I can remove spray on tan from 20 feet away with this setup.
post #2459 of 2810
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelddd View Post

I can remove spray on tan from 20 feet away with this setup.

Get you a motorized screen?
What is spray-on TAN?
post #2460 of 2810
Does the bulb timer take a while to register the first hour? I'm at like 4 hours and it still says 0.
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