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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 86

post #2551 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by John P View Post

I you suggest you take the lamp out and look at it. Regardless of hours some lamps age prematurely. The bulb gets a smokey charcoal gray color as they age, the darker the older. Also look for any bubbling in the bulb - like the bulb is melting. This type of lamp is under very high pressure and can explode like a cherry bomb; if you see bubbling I would stop using it.
I tried a Non OEM bulb in my Infocus projector, it was much cheaper but instead of having a 250W bulb it had a 180W bulb. Spend the extra money and buy an OEM bulb.
The Mits bulb warranty is 6 months. If you bought the projector with a credit card the warranty was likely extended to one year. Check your credit card rules.

Not sure if it changed or not but the Mits website says the bulb warranty is 1yr or 500 hours.
post #2552 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by intoran View Post

Not sure if it changed or not but the Mits website says the bulb warranty is 1yr or 500 hours.
Oops your right it is one year. Then credit card purchasers could get 2 years. Thanks
post #2553 of 2855
I just got a refurbished APC Smart-UPS 700 (with new batteries) to protect my HC4000 projector. I also have a generator, and I chose the Smart-UPS because they have a sensitivity adjustment and are supposed to work better with generators than the cheaper models.

I started with the sensitivity set to "low" but the HC4000 would shut down (and go into cool off mode with the fan running) when I pulled the plug.

With sensitivity set to "medium" sometimes it would transfer ok, and sometimes it would shut down.

I had to set the sensitivity to "high" before the HC4000 would consistently transfer to the UPS without shutting down.

As you can imagine, the projector shut down many times while I was testing the UPS, so maybe these results can save somebody else some grief. I waited at least an hour after the shut downs for the bulb to cool off before trying again. I hope I didn't wear out the bulb too much.

Anyway, the Smart-UPS are supposed to work best with generators when the sensitivity is set to "low" or "medium" -- with the HC4000 being picky about the input power and requiring the "high" setting, I was a little concerned. For comparison, a second Smart-UPS 700 works fine on "low" sensitivity with a computer and LCD monitor.

I ran a generator test with the Smart-UPS sensitivity set to "high" and I'm thankful that it worked fine. It transferred to the battery for a second or two when I powered on an A/C, but other than that it accepted the generator power (and the projector ran fine on generator power as well).
post #2554 of 2855
Hi there Mitsubishi owners. I new to the forum and would like to ask a few questions. I'm set on the Mitsubishi hc4000 already and would like to ask for some tips.

My bedroom (where I would like to place my projector) is very oddly shaped, it has sloping ceilings from front to back. It's like a triangular ceiling. Not sure what it's called. Anyway, is placing a motorized on the celing? My projector will also be placed on the other sloping celing. Hope you guys can help me out.

Carlo
post #2555 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by PanteraGSTK View Post

Will do. Thanks.
How long are you guys letting your bulb "break in" before you recalibrate? The screen shots I see everywhere are not even close to what I'm actually seeing at home in relation to black. Mine looks like the overexposed shots on projectorreviews.com, maybe more. Just trying to figure out if this is normal.
294

That pic is closer to what you'll actually see on a projector like this. The typical screenshots you find on this forum with their pure black areas are just photos that aren't exposed correctly -- for real black you need something like one of the JVCs.

Which isn't to say you can't get better than what you're seeing now; hard to say without knowing what's going on there. One common culprit is having the levels set improperly for the source (16-235 vs 0-255 or whatever). Make sure to at least set the brightness and contrast correctly using some sort of calibration disc. Or, worst case, just put up a 2.35 movie, and adjust the brightness down so that when you're looking at the screen from inches away, you see no dithering dots at all in the letterbox areas -- that's your pure black. Find the spot where +1 brightness click makes the dithering appear in that area. This way at the very least you'll know the black areas are as black as they can be.
post #2556 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by funstuff View Post

Excellent suggestion, thanks! I'm thinking of rigging up some rope lighting behind for now, as a cheap and quick test trial... If I find I like it, will pursue the Idealume.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwk123 View Post

I'll definitely be interested in your results. Rope light is a great way to prototype, although controlling the brightness might be a bit tricky. The color balance makes it less than ideal for a 'permanent' solution, but I don't at this point have any direct experience to know just how big an effect the color balance really is.
I have no idea whether it will help with RBE - a quick search didn't turn up much - but it seems reasonable that it might. Good luck.

Update on this for the sake of closure on rope lights behind a fixed frame screen...

The lights actually snapped very easily into the back of the Elite Sable frame, no accessories required... however due to the screen frame's close proximity to the wall, the illumination was very uneven. I tried a few different things, but nothing was ideal. In a nutshell, rope lighting could be a good source of ambient/bias lighting behind a screen, but you would have to build out the screen on a proper wood frame and mount the lights at least 1" away from the wall. This is all something I'm not into doing right now.

To combat RBE, I have found that simply keeping lower contrast and lower brightness is the biggest help settings-wise. As for lighting, I'm in a 20ft room and have killed the first 2 pot lights on the ceiling as well as the sconce nearest the screen (leaving one near the back of the room); angled the working pot lights away from the screen and with all these lights on a dimmer, I put them on very very low. You can't tell any difference in picture quality at all and it's much easier on the eyes for me.

No report on how the ND2 filter works as it hit a delay in shipping -- Hoya 67mm are hard to get right now it seems.
Edited by funstuff - 7/18/12 at 1:37pm
post #2557 of 2855
Anyone use this projector with the WilsonArt Designer White laminate for the screen? I'm thinking of moving on from blackout cloth and I've read lots of testimonials saying the DW is surprisingly close to a Studiotek 130. Plus I need the gain.
post #2558 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave3 View Post

I ran a generator test with the Smart-UPS sensitivity set to "high" and I'm thankful that it worked fine. It transferred to the battery for a second or two when I powered on an A/C, but other than that it accepted the generator power (and the projector ran fine on generator power as well).

After a long power outage, I ran into problems with the Smart-UPS sensitivity set to "high." For now I've been keeping the UPS off, and only turning it on when I'm watching the projector. It seems to do better while the A/C is on (it usually is while I'm watching). Voltage and frequency are pretty stable, so I suspect it's an issue with waveform distortion.
post #2559 of 2855
Hey Everyone. Need a little help on deciding. A bit of background:

I currently have a Hitachi PJTX100 projector. After about 5000 hours, the first bulb final went quietly. Bought a replacement. Now the unit won't fire the new bulb consistently unless I give it a small tap. Also, it is suddenly having trouble linking with the HDMI. I need to turn off the source, the receiver or PJ until it links on the HD-DVD player only (Cable and other sources work fine).

Anyways, I am thinking that this PJ is about to give up and I am looking for a good interim projector to last until I build my dedicated theater room. Here is what I have now as far as measurements:

92" Carada screen. Viewing surface is 16" from the ceiling.
Ceiling is 88"
Projector is mounted 5" down from the ceiling and it is 13' from the screen.

Would the 4000 be a good choice as a replacement based on the specs listed. The setup was originally built up for my first projector which was a Optoma H31. After the color wheel bearings burnt up, I bought the Hitachi. It worked perfect with the lens shift and good zoom.

It is too bad about the Hitachi as with the new bulb working, it still looks great. But I am thinking it is going to go TU here and I don't think it will be worth repairing.

So, what do you experts think?

Thanks!

Mike
post #2560 of 2855
Thread Starter 
The Optoma hd33 or Optoma hd20 would probably fit in your mounting location as they have a smaller offset (but they don't have enough zoom maybe - so you'll need to move mount up to 12' instead of 13'), and the Mits is pushing it even with a flush mount, but the Benq w6000 would be the easiest one to mount in that configuration as all you would need is a drop-pole mount. You would need a flush mount for the Mits for sure, but even then you would have to either use a couple clicks of keystone or overshoot the image to hide the slight geometry error from tilting. It wouldn't bother me in either case (you can easily fudge a projector installation a few inches from its offset without creating a large error as long as your screen has a 1"+ black border). I do it with another DLP, but it won't be perfectly aligned but I don't even notice the overshoot error when watching movies, but it may bother you. The Benq w6000 is probably the one I'd buy instead (but it is audibly louder if mounting near your head), and you will need a much lower mounting position (drop-pole mount). Otherwise if 3D interests you and you can move the mount closer, then look at the Optoma hd33.

The Benq w6000 should work, but you'd have to use a drop-pole mount to get the projector near level to the top of the screen, and top-screen means you would be near MAX lens shift.
The Mits hc4000 and the Benq w6000 are the two leaders under $1400 for 2D image quality.
The Epson 8350 as another alternative which would work for you in its current mounting spot.

Benq w6000
1) Brighter (shouldn't matter at your screen size)
2) Deeper Blacks (but barely and only after IRIS engages)
3) Audibly Noisier (if mounting close to your head, could be a big problem)
4) Better Placement Flexibility (has Lens Shift)
5) Does not natively support 2.35 screens
6) A tad sharper than the Mits

Mits hc4000
1) DOES support 2.35 screens and switching back and forth from 16:9 to 2.35 on a 2.35 screen
2) About half as bright as the Benq (doesn't matter in many cases)
3) Still good blacks (highest native on/off just no IRIS)
4) Quieter
5) No Lens Shift
6) More accurate color OOTB before calibration

The Mits is a good choice if the placement flexibility works out, but it's very tight in your setup. If you calibrate the Mits correctly and mount it near farthest throw, it will improve the black levels and be closer to the w6000 even though the Mits has no IRIS.
Edited by coderguy - 8/1/12 at 12:35am
post #2561 of 2855
Also, the W6000 is a MUCH larger (case) projector than the HC4000.
post #2562 of 2855
Curttard: I have a 92" diagonal 16:9 aspect ration WilsonArt Designer White screen and I'm totally happy with it. It's a very durable medium and easy to clean. I don't think you'll be disappointed if you decide to build the screen for yourself. FremontRich
post #2563 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by curttard View Post

Anyone use this projector with the WilsonArt Designer White laminate for the screen? I'm thinking of moving on from blackout cloth and I've read lots of testimonials saying the DW is surprisingly close to a Studiotek 130. Plus I need the gain.

Hey Curttard...where and how are you going to obtain a piece big enough to do what you are currently doing...right now I have a negative gain grey and wanting to do something else...I am only doing 106" but that would still be a big chunk to handle...
post #2564 of 2855
I have the Boise Cascades whiteboard with the HC4000 and really like it. I had a Sintra board but it had too much glare (unpainted), but the BC is great (unpainted too).
post #2565 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

Curttard: I have a 92" diagonal 16:9 aspect ration WilsonArt Designer White screen and I'm totally happy with it. It's a very durable medium and easy to clean. I don't think you'll be disappointed if you decide to build the screen for yourself. FremontRich


Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

Hey Curttard...where and how are you going to obtain a piece big enough to do what you are currently doing...right now I have a negative gain grey and wanting to do something else...I am only doing 106" but that would still be a big chunk to handle...

I guess I'd be getting it from Lowe's. $122 for 5x10. It would be a bit smaller than my current screen.
post #2566 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by curttard View Post

Thanks!
I guess I'd be getting it from Lowe's. $122 for 5x10. It would be a bit smaller than my current screen.


If you end up going down that path let me know what you think when you get it up...thanks.
post #2567 of 2855
Now I'm getting wishy-washy. I shrunk my image size down and moved up the sofa to get the same field of view as an experiment. I'm getting almost literally twice the ftL, but honestly it just confirms what everyone says about the eye adjusting to whatever brightness you see -- it really doesn't feel any brighter than it did before. I guess I already knew this -- when I zoom in/out to go from 2.35 to 16:9 stuff, I'm going from 4 to 7 ftL according to Coderguy's calculator (which matches what I get from HCFR), but it just doesn't feel any different really. So I'm kind of thinking "why bother"?

I also put up my old Parkland Plastics screen, supposedly a gain of 1.0 versus as low as .8 for BOC, and even with it against my BOC, the difference is minimal or entirely unnoticeable.
post #2568 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyee View Post

I have the Boise Cascades whiteboard with the HC4000 and really like it. I had a Sintra board but it had too much glare (unpainted), but the BC is great (unpainted too).

How big, how much, and where did you get it?
post #2569 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by funstuff View Post

To combat RBE...No report on how the ND2 filter works as it hit a delay in shipping -- Hoya 67mm are hard to get right now it seems.

ND2 filter finally came in.

Wondering for those that have them, or have used in the past... is the intent to use these with Low Lamp mode on or to run in Standard Lamp mode? Obviously would have to recalibrate after putting the filter on as well?
post #2570 of 2855
Standard mode with ND would defeat the purpose, wouldn't it? The ND will do nothing but lower brightness, so instead of using it in High mode you could just do Low without the ND. You shouldn't have to recalibrate either, the filter is Neutral and will not affect color, greyscale, or relative contrast.
post #2571 of 2855
Hi guys,

I believe that I have a dust blob in my HC4000, a purple spot in the upper right corner.
Is there a tutorial somewhere on how to get it removed?

Many thanks!!!
post #2572 of 2855
Thread Starter 
You probably need to send the projector back for service if it still under warranty. It is hard to clear a dust blob on a DLP because the lens path is mostly isolated and closed in from the other parts. It is somewhat rare to get a dust blob on a DLP, although it can happen. Your problem could be something else as well.
post #2573 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

You probably need to send the projector back for service if it still under warranty. It is hard to clear a dust blob on a DLP because the lens path is mostly isolated and closed in from the other parts. It is somewhat rare to get a dust blob on a DLP, although it can happen. Your problem could be something else as well.



Thank you for your reply!!

Unfortunately the projector is no longer under warranty.
I'm pretty sure it is a dust or hair particle because I can even see it move a bit and the movement changes intensity according to the fan. When I change lamp mode is quite noticeable.
I´m actually thinking about using a vacuum cleaner on the side where the hot air comes out to see if I can get it out.
post #2574 of 2855
Just bought a refurbished HC4000, getting exited. Anyone here upgrade from a Optoma HD66 to the HC4000? Hoping I'll notice a big step up in PQ.
post #2575 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny2428 View Post

Just bought a refurbished HC4000, getting exited. Anyone here upgrade from a Optoma HD66 to the HC4000? Hoping I'll notice a big step up in PQ.
I received mine on Wednesday. I turned it on and it showed 280 hours. I just called Projector People and the refurbished do not have a new bulb and the hours are correct for the installed bulb. Its funny because the HC3000u that I am replacing has a fairly new bulb and has around 280 hours on it, too.
post #2576 of 2855
I was kind of afraid of that, but at what they were selling it for I'm ok with that. I'll buy a spare bulb soon just in case. The HC4000 seems to have less problems with there bulbs compared to other projectors though, from what I've read so far. Did yours come in a Mitsubishi box? Was there any signs of use other than the hours on the bulb? Any scratches?
post #2577 of 2855
I was tempted to get one but according to coderguy it has too much RBE so I had to pass.

coderguy: I had the Acer 9500. It's pretty much rainbow city at every high contrast/ bright scenes so definitely no go for you. It throws a very nice, sharp contrasty picture though.
post #2578 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Yo,

I never had the 9500 nor did I ever say I did, not sure where you misread that from. What I said was all 4x/6seg color wheels have too much RBE for me, I think you misinterpreted. How much RBE you see probably will not match how much RBE I see, everyone is different, so don't go by my sensitivity to it.

The 9500 and Mits hc4000 should have about the same RBE.
post #2579 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yo,
I never had the 9500 nor did I ever say I did, not sure where you misread that from. What I said was all 4x/6seg color wheels have too much RBE for me, I think you misinterpreted. How much RBE you see probably will not match how much RBE I see, everyone is different, so don't go by my sensitivity to it.
The 9500 and Mits hc4000 should have about the same RBE.

Yes, I know you don't have one. Just giving you a head's up in case you were thinking about trying one. 4x is too much RBE for me as well. At 6x they are pretty much gone for me.
post #2580 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Ahh, thanks, yah I misread your post and there I was telling you that you misread mine smile.gif
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