or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 90

post #2671 of 2855
Is there any better lower cost under 1600,oo € PJ with better blacks than Mits4k ? I'm a huge fan of horror and sci-fi movies, I'll rather move to double priced JVC x30 but the bulb cost scares me... any advice? I saw epson 8350 which looks pretty good, but lacks the DLP color look and sharpness. I'll use my new PJ for watching movies 95% of time in a light controlled room on 120" custom made 1.2 gain math white screen, distance 16 fts.
Edited by deffusse - 12/4/12 at 5:09am
post #2672 of 2855
I've foud acer H9500bd for 1500,oo €, it's well 400+ than mits4k, so is this acer worth the price in the meaning of getting better blacks or not. 3D is just bonus, as I mostly watch 2D content ..
Edited by deffusse - 12/4/12 at 5:09am
post #2673 of 2855
Hey check this link. The Acer has better blacks with the aid of the IRIS of course.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/acer/h9500bd/image.php

Just scroll down to the section where it says "Black Levels and Shadow Detail"

Hope this helps.
post #2674 of 2855
Yes, but in other areas not as good. Also half the bulb life and half the warranty.
post #2675 of 2855
True, but then what PJ is a better one than HC4ooo ? In the price range I've mentioned...
post #2676 of 2855
I don't think you can find anything better in that price range. The Acer you mentioned cost more because of 3D. The Optoma HD33 & the Epson 3020's once again are 3D. I don't think any of them are as good as the Hc4000, if 2D is your priority. The only negative with respect to the Hc4000 is the rather large offset and lack of horizontal lens shift.

I just set up my Hc4000 this past weekend. Looks incredible and the blacks are as good as your going to get for an under $2000 projector.
post #2677 of 2855
On the other hand, it's been 2 years since the first hc4000 was whiped. Maybe there is a chance of getting new model in next 3-6 months smile.gif but thats only mine hypothesis. As an alternative I was also looking at Benq w1200, since w6000 isn't avaliable in my country anymore. But with w1200 still no lens shift. Anyway thanks for advice, it helped me to move a bit forward .
post #2678 of 2855
Other than a JVC model, I don't think you'll find many (any?) HC3800 or HC4000 owners moving on to anything else. Exception to those with sensitivity to RBE perhaps.

It would be nice if Mits came out with a dual iris (manual + dynamic) version of the HC4000 (i.e., in the same price class), but alas, no luck or rumor to that effect.
post #2679 of 2855
Ok then it's settled either on staying with hc4ooo or getting a refurb sony es30 which I found an hour ago for good (1500€) price. Anyways I already know it's quite hard task to find good PJ for a certain price biggrin.gif
post #2680 of 2855
The only area the Sony will for sure beat the HC4000 is in the black level. Everything else, picture quality wise, the HC4000 will probably at least match, or be better at.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony/vpl-hw30es/

(ok, the Sony should be a brighter too)
Edited by fleaman - 12/6/12 at 8:50am
post #2681 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by deffusse View Post

Ok then it's settled either on staying with hc4ooo or getting a refurb sony es30 which I found an hour ago for good (1500€) price. Anyways I already know it's quite hard task to find good PJ for a certain price biggrin.gif

You seem to be fixated on that $1500 number rather than a projector. Just because you can afford $400 more, doesn't mean your going to get a better projector than the Hc4000. My budget was $1500 to $1600 and I went with the Hc4000. The other projectors at the higher price point were offering 3D but lesser 2D performance. You would have to spend more than $2000 to get a clearly better projector. Maybe you should start a new thread asking for projector suggestions after clearly defining your expectations.
post #2682 of 2855
oh pardon me, but from what I know sony/jvc LCoS projectors have one of the best 2D picture avaliable out there (not to mention best blacks in class) ... So I'm not "that fixated" on price, I simply compared features + performance. According to PJ reviews review, the 30ES isn't bad at all, so that is why I compared those two and was asking you for advice. Either way your reply helped me a lot to think.
post #2683 of 2855
Have had my HC4k for a few weeks now and after using the Disney wow bluray running from a penny bd85 to calibrate, it looks amazing. IMO better than my buddy's plasma. Colors just pop and blacks are inky and smooth. Gaming is amazing as well! Using the black sheet on the ceiling trick to reduce glare and it helps a lot. I did have some problems with rbe at first but I think my brain got used to it because I rarely see them. Now for the sad part. Because of my low ceilings I can't mount it. I tried putting it between my seats but its just not working out. I ordered from amazon so if I return I will have no issues. Thinking about w6000 because of lens shift but if the pq isn't as grand, I'll move back to the mits and deal with the seating issue. Any advice from you pros?
post #2684 of 2855
Hey IrishHT, what's the height of your ceilings. Even mine are quite low. I think around 7-8 feet. I have mounted the HC4000 to the ceiling and am projecting on to a 106" screen.

What size screen do you have and how far can you ceiling mount your PJ?

All I can say is If there is a will there is a way....biggrin.gif
post #2685 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrishHT View Post

Have had my HC4k for a few weeks now and after using the Disney wow bluray running from a penny bd85 to calibrate, it looks amazing. IMO better than my buddy's plasma. Colors just pop and blacks are inky and smooth. Gaming is amazing as well! Using the black sheet on the ceiling trick to reduce glare and it helps a lot. I did have some problems with rbe at first but I think my brain got used to it because I rarely see them. Now for the sad part. Because of my low ceilings I can't mount it. I tried putting it between my seats but its just not working out. I ordered from amazon so if I return I will have no issues. Thinking about w6000 because of lens shift but if the pq isn't as grand, I'll move back to the mits and deal with the seating issue. Any advice from you pros?

Get the lowest mount you can find. I have this one, it basically allows you to put the HC4000 right on your ceiling. My ceilings are 7.5'.

The problem of course with low ceilings is that the image will be projected very low, close to or at the floor. In addition to using a low profile mount, if you have a screen, you can tip the projector up a bit and then tilt the screen out at the top (various methods to do this). This would allow you to keep the projector and screen perpendicular. Alternately, you could tip the projector up and use a few clicks of Keystone, which many here say has no discernible effect on image quality (using just a few clicks).
post #2686 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by amalarul View Post

Hey IrishHT, what's the height of your ceilings. Even mine are quite low. I think around 7-8 feet. I have mounted the HC4000 to the ceiling and am projecting on to a 106" screen.
What size screen do you have and how far can you ceiling mount your PJ?
All I can say is If there is a will there is a way....biggrin.gif
Thanks for the replies! Sadly my ceiling height is a mere 80 inches. Current image size is 104 inches and the furthest back I could mount it would be about 160 inches. Currently to achieve my current image size, I have it about 5.5 inches off the ground and 147ish inches from wall to lens. Image is about an inch below the top of the ceiling and about 28 inches off the floor.
post #2687 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by funstuff View Post

Get the lowest mount you can find. I have this one, it basically allows you to put the HC4000 right on your ceiling. My ceilings are 7.5'.
The problem of course with low ceilings is that the image will be projected very low, close to or at the floor. In addition to using a low profile mount, if you have a screen, you can tip the projector up a bit and then tilt the screen out at the top (various methods to do this). This would allow you to keep the projector and screen perpendicular. Alternately, you could tip the projector up and use a few clicks of Keystone, which many here say has no discernible effect on image quality (using just a few clicks).
That mount certainly has the least drop of any I've seen! Unfortunately I can't really project low because I have a left and right cabinet with games in one, blurays in the other and speakers on top of both. Plus a small shelf with my blu-ray player, Xbox and center speaker in-between them. They stand at about 20.5 inches high not counting the speakers sitting on top.
post #2688 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrishHT View Post

Have had my HC4k for a few weeks now and after using the Disney wow bluray running from a penny bd85 to calibrate, it looks amazing. IMO better than my buddy's plasma. Colors just pop and blacks are inky and smooth. Gaming is amazing as well! Using the black sheet on the ceiling trick to reduce glare and it helps a lot. I did have some problems with rbe at first but I think my brain got used to it because I rarely see them. Now for the sad part. Because of my low ceilings I can't mount it. I tried putting it between my seats but its just not working out. I ordered from amazon so if I return I will have no issues. Thinking about w6000 because of lens shift but if the pq isn't as grand, I'll move back to the mits and deal with the seating issue. Any advice from you pros?

The W6000 is HUGE compared to the HC4000 (case size). I think you could fit 2+ HC4000's in the W6000 case volume.

I believe the W6000 is louder (someone can correct me if wrong, it's been a while), it is WAY brighter---so much so that if your screen is on the smaller size, it could be too much. Native contrast is worse, but dynamic blacks is better (HC4000 has no dynamic contrast of course).

If your running a LARGE screen, the W6000 is the clear winner.

Oh, and I'm not a 'Pro' wink.gif
post #2689 of 2855
is 120" 1.2 gain screen ( 7 feet projection distance) considered LARGE screen smile.gif?
post #2690 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by deffusse View Post

is 120" 1.2 gain screen ( 7 feet projection distance) considered LARGE screen smile.gif?

I'd say so. At that size and gain, I think the W6000 would be a better choice due to its lumens advantage, especially after the lamp as worn in a bit. Not sure if the W6000 can do that size from that distance, but I guess their projection calculator can answer that.
The HC4000 is still good at that size, but it just won't be plasma bright-like, if that is what one wants, it would be more commercial film theater type brightness.

Perhaps coderguy can comment if he's reading....
post #2691 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by deffusse View Post

is 120" 1.2 gain screen ( 7 feet projection distance) considered LARGE screen smile.gif?

Neither the W6000 or HC4000 will do 120" from 7' (both have a roughly 1.5 zoom). That would require an extreme short throw lens/pj.

Jason
post #2692 of 2855
My big excuse I meant 17 feet, that digit somehow fell out ....
post #2693 of 2855
Hey IrishHT not sure whether you have already made the switch to W6000. My ceilings are only 85 inches high. I have posted a pic of the DIY mount that I made. Not the prettiest mount but gets the job done perfectly. The only downside to this installation is that you have to get the alignment to the screen dead on because there is no swivel option. You can move the mount to the left or to the right for fine adjustments.

This the view from the left



This is the view from the right



I have the PJ slightly tilted upwards with +1 keystone.
Edited by amalarul - 12/12/12 at 2:06am
post #2694 of 2855
Hello all,

I just got my HC4000 after owning a Runco CL-710 for the past 8 years and all I can say is Wow! Now for the questions. I have this ceiling mounted and pointed to a Da-Lite 92" screen. the instructions say at least a couple of times that you need to unplug the power cable after turning it off (See User Manual pages EN-19 Step 11, and EN-24, Step 11). So, my questions:

1. Has anyone installed the Earth Leakage breaker circuit for this projector discussed on page EN-17 of the User Manual?

2. Is everyone disconnecting the power cable after turning off the unit or using a remote controlled switch to accomplish same?

Regards,
post #2695 of 2855
I'm using a small UPS/voltage regulator connected to a power strip. I turn both off when not using the PJ due to the power drain the UPS consumes (stays pretty warm when on).
post #2696 of 2855
Why in god name would it be necessary to actually unplug this projector? I've done commercial installs of other projectors and they are never unplugged....
post #2697 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by aviman33 View Post

Why in god name would it be necessary to actually unplug this projector? I've done commercial installs of other projectors and they are never unplugged....

That's precisely what I'd like to know
post #2698 of 2855
Well, for me, I have a UPS voltage regulator dedicated to this PJ, so it's always burning watts/heat even when the PJ is 'off' (the UPS that is). Considering I turn my PJ on maybe once or twice a week at most, it was better to just power down the UPS and turn off the power strip.

My particular Tripplite UPS runs very very warm even when idling.
post #2699 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchamp View Post

Hello all,
I just got my HC4000 after owning a Runco CL-710 for the past 8 years and all I can say is Wow! Now for the questions. I have this ceiling mounted and pointed to a Da-Lite 92" screen. the instructions say at least a couple of times that you need to unplug the power cable after turning it off (See User Manual pages EN-19 Step 11, and EN-24, Step 11). So, my questions:
1. Has anyone installed the Earth Leakage breaker circuit for this projector discussed on page EN-17 of the User Manual?
2. Is everyone disconnecting the power cable after turning off the unit or using a remote controlled switch to accomplish same?
Regards,

After looking at the manual, I think these are just generic instructions for portable use. Basically to remind people you have to turn the projector off and let it cool down before pulling the plug. Just to be sure I sent a question to their tech support.
post #2700 of 2855
Concerning plug pulling, as I suspected here is the response form mits tech support.

"Hi John, this section of the owner’s manual is intended for storing the unit during periods of inactivity. During normal use of the projector you do not need to disconnect the AC power between viewings."
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread