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Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 93

post #2761 of 2855
For those having issues ceiling mounting this PJ, and the screen being too low, here's a nice DIY solution. This mount is virtually 100% flush with the ceiling. Watch the video in the following link:

http://hackaday.com/2012/09/28/never-pay-more-than-10-for-a-projector-mount/
post #2762 of 2855
I am having trouble getting the lens perfectly centered (since it is offset) to the screen. Any tips?
post #2763 of 2855
Take some kite string (or a string that won't stretch), tie a loop in one end of it. Take the other end to the top LH/RH corners of your screen area. The string should be long enough to reach from the top corners of your screen area to your lens. This will probably require some help. Have someone hold one end of the string precisely at one corner (say the LH corner), while you slip a pencil through the loop of the string at the lens end. Make sure this length is accurate. Perhaps making a loop at the screen end might help also. Then, with the pencil TIP hooked around the loop at the lens end, draw a small arc on your ceiling. Move the screen string end to the other corner, draw another small arc intersecting the arc you just drew. This is the center of your screen at your lens position. Now, shorten the string a bit, say 12" or so. Repeat this process drawing 2 intersecting arcs closer to the screen area. Take a ruler and draw a line through the intersecting points of both pairs of arcs you drew, this is your lens centerline.

Attach a string with a weight to the centerline on the ceiling at your lens position area, so that it hangs down in front of your PJ, position your lens so that string is in the middle of the lens (of course).
Edited by fleaman - 1/8/13 at 3:21pm
post #2764 of 2855
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by intoran View Post

I am having trouble getting the lens perfectly centered (since it is offset) to the screen. Any tips?

Use a test pattern from a calibration disk, or even use the Mits built-in square grid pattern and make sure ALL of the test pattern's grid edges exactly match the viewing-edge of the screen. Fleaman's way should work too, though you'd probably need a giant protractor to pull it off smile.gif
post #2765 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Use a test pattern from a calibration disk, or even use the Mits built-in square grid pattern and make sure ALL of the test pattern's grid edges exactly match the viewing-edge of the screen. Fleaman's way should work too, though you'd probably need a giant protractor to pull it off smile.gif

We'll, the method I mentioned is a giant protractor.

It's also easier if you already have the screen mounted and just need to mount the PJ.
post #2766 of 2855
Hi guys, I am enjoying a lot the MITS HC4000, I am very happy with the image quality it shows. smile.gif

I have a question about the 48p capabilities of the HC4000.

When i set my player to 24p the Mits goes to 24p instead of the 48p it is supposed to do in the 24p mode. Is it normal? I thought that the HC4000 would change the frequency to 48hz instead of 24.

Maybe is my player fault, I am using a Kaiboer K100 with a Popcornhour A110 firmware.

Thank you for the answer, excellent thread.
post #2767 of 2855
The menu shows the incoming signal type, not the actual refresh rate.
post #2768 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The only downside of the Mits is that RBE is higher than most DLP's with 4x color wheels, because the Mits has higher contrast and makes it easier to see.

Alright guys, I'd like some opinions. I'm looking hard at the HC4000 for DLP and price point (< $1,200). This RBE comment prompts this response.

Years ago I owned an Optoma HD72 (DLP DarkChip 2, 7-segment color wheel (GRBWGRB), 4x speed) and am somewhat sensitive to RBE. I found then that if I kept my eyes from shifting quickly side to side I could satisfactorily control the RBE effect during movies. I'm DLP all the way; had too many issues with dust problems using LCD projectors and love the punch of a DLP image.

Now having moved, I am putting together a "mini-theater" to tide me over (12 mos plus) until I can organize and plan a larger one in the home. The "mini" is a small 10'x11' room that I'll place a 2.35:1 screen; either 96" (88.3 inches wide by 37.6 high) or 102" (93.88 inches wide by 39.97 high). I'll be sitting about 9' from the screen and the room is totally light controlled.

So, you think RBE shouldn't be any worse with the HC4000 than what I've dealt with before - or any other comparable projectors I should consider to minimize the RBE - or will they all be pretty close anyway? Any thoughts on the gain that might work best for the screen material in this configuration?
post #2769 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Collusion View Post

The menu shows the incoming signal type, not the actual refresh rate.

Thank you for the answer. smile.gif

So, is it impossible to know if the Mits is transforming the 24P to 48P, isn't it?
post #2770 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Samartegui View Post

Thank you for the answer. smile.gif

So, is it impossible to know if the Mits is transforming the 24P to 48P, isn't it?

The HC4000 does *not* display "48p". It displays 24p sources at 48Hz (each frame is displayed twice.) The net result is still 24 frames per second.
post #2771 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith AP View Post

Alright guys, I'd like some opinions. I'm looking hard at the HC4000 for DLP and price point (< $1,200). This RBE comment prompts this response.

Years ago I owned an Optoma HD72 (DLP DarkChip 2, 7-segment color wheel (GRBWGRB), 4x speed) and am somewhat sensitive to RBE. I found then that if I kept my eyes from shifting quickly side to side I could satisfactorily control the RBE effect during movies. I'm DLP all the way; had too many issues with dust problems using LCD projectors and love the punch of a DLP image.

Now having moved, I am putting together a "mini-theater" to tide me over (12 mos plus) until I can organize and plan a larger one in the home. The "mini" is a small 10'x11' room that I'll place a 2.35:1 screen; either 96" (88.3 inches wide by 37.6 high) or 102" (93.88 inches wide by 39.97 high). I'll be sitting about 9' from the screen and the room is totally light controlled.

So, you think RBE shouldn't be any worse with the HC4000 than what I've dealt with before - or any other comparable projectors I should consider to minimize the RBE - or will they all be pretty close anyway? Any thoughts on the gain that might work best for the screen material in this configuration?

Ah... I had a nice post all done up but the site just froze on me and I lost it.

The long and short is that I agonized over RBE when I got the HC4000, did a bunch of things to try and combat it, but in the end found that it just went away for me (look at my earlier posts in my profile history if you like). I think my brain got used to it and I am someone who regularly gets migraines, has a visual nystagmus -- all things said to make someone more RBE sensitive.

Others here could tell you about the Viewsonic Pro8200, which has less RBE.

I have the projector mounted at 17', sitting at 20', hitting a 120" screen (1.1 gain), regular (not low lamp) mode. Not sure if you'd find RBE more prevalent sitting closer and with a smaller screen (due to being brighter).

Best advice I can give if you get the HC4000 is not to panic if are seeing RBE all over at first. Many - myself included - find this to either be an overactive new bulb or a brain that isn't used to DLP tech.
post #2772 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

The HC4000 does *not* display "48p". It displays 24p sources at 48Hz (each frame is displayed twice.) The net result is still 24 frames per second.

Thanks for the info, I did not know it.
So, is there a way to know if my unit is doing this correctly? I want to see it if it is possible.

Thank you. smile.gif
post #2773 of 2855
Hello guys,

I have a 4805 that has been a true friend for last 7+ years, but it is on its last legs now and I am in the market for a replacement.

I have not had as much time to research as I did when I bought the 4805, but from the reviews I have read, the only thing worrying me about HC 4000 is the brightness level. 4805 was a light cannon. Do you guys think this would be too much off a drop from the plasma like image that 4805 offered?

I know the contrast is stellar on the mits, plus the DC3 makes a huge difference. But I still like a bright projector, I have ambient light control, but obviously for sports and gaming, some lights do stay on.

My screen size is actually not that big at 92", the calculator at projection central says I can get 21 FL at my screen size and placement.

While 4805 with the same settings delivered 29 FL, so this is almost a 30% drop. Also 4805 was super reliable, is the mits comparable?

Basically, I bought it in 2005 and I was using it till last week, on the same bulb!! Had to fix the light tunnel once, but that took about 3 hours and it was all good.

Would love to have something comparable. Could you all please share your thoughts?
post #2774 of 2855
I traded up from the 4805 to the hc3800. i went from a 84inch with the 4805 to a 135 with the 3800. I can tell you that even in low lamp mode the 3800 still blows the 4805 away. even people that come over and see my new settup cant believe how much more watchable the 3800 is with the lights on. my projector is about 14-15 feet from the screen. you will love it.
post #2775 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Samartegui View Post

Thanks for the info, I did not know it.
So, is there a way to know if my unit is doing this correctly? I want to see it if it is possible.

Thank you. smile.gif

If the incoming signal into the HC4000 menu says 24p, then it's being displayed properly. The HC4000, or any digital projector (AFAIK), can not display (project) an actual 24hz or 24p on the screen. For DLP at least, it would probably be an RBE nightmare.

Basically the 2 main options you'll be seeing is either 60hz (input and output) or 48hz (24p input from your blu player). Again, if it says '24p' in the menu, then it will be 48hz on the screen, NOT 60hz. Though, it's possible you might see a slight increase in RBE at the 24p/48hz rate vs 60hz.
post #2776 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by SULLY12 View Post

I traded up from the 4805 to the hc3800. i went from a 84inch with the 4805 to a 135 with the 3800. I can tell you that even in low lamp mode the 3800 still blows the 4805 away. even people that come over and see my new settup cant believe how much more watchable the 3800 is with the lights on. my projector is about 14-15 feet from the screen. you will love it.

Thanks for that vote of confidence. Does the HC4000 offer more lumens than 3800? I guess even if it is 100-200 more, it might make even more of a difference.
post #2777 of 2855
hc4000 is pretty old now, it's in its 4th (?) year cycle... are the any news of upcoming PJ in hc4000 class? (from mitsubishi ofc)
post #2778 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

If the incoming signal into the HC4000 menu says 24p, then it's being displayed properly. The HC4000, or any digital projector (AFAIK), can not display (project) an actual 24hz or 24p on the screen. For DLP at least, it would probably be an RBE nightmare.

Basically the 2 main options you'll be seeing is either 60hz (input and output) or 48hz (24p input from your blu player). Again, if it says '24p' in the menu, then it will be 48hz on the screen, NOT 60hz. Though, it's possible you might see a slight increase in RBE at the 24p/48hz rate vs 60hz.

Thank you very much for the answer, now I have it clear. Yes, I can see 23.98 hz in the projector info menu. smile.gif

This is my third DLP projector and I haven't seen ever a rainbow. I am a lucky man I suppose.

By the way, i am testing the vertical location option into the advanced menu. When I am projecting a 2.35 movie I move the image up and in the inferior part of the screen I stick a black velvet strip, so I have a more inmersive experience in my opinion. DIY screen masking. :P biggrin.gif

My question is, the vertical location option modify the image quality in some way? My test says not, I cannot see any resolution o distortion sideeffects, so I think this vertical location option can be used without any problem, but I am asking for your opinion. I am not using horizontal keystone at all, my Mitsu lens is totally centered to the screen.

Sorry for my poor english and thanks for the answer. smile.gif
post #2779 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Samartegui View Post

By the way, i am testing the vertical location option into the advanced menu. When I am projecting a 2.35 movie I move the image up and in the inferior part of the screen I stick a black velvet strip, so I have a more inmersive experience in my opinion. DIY screen masking. :P biggrin.gif

My question is, the vertical location option modify the image quality in some way? My test says not, I cannot see any resolution o distortion sideeffects, so I think this vertical location option can be used without any problem, but I am asking for your opinion. I am not using horizontal keystone at all, my Mitsu lens is totally centered to the screen.

No distortion with vertical location at all. All it's doing is moving the image to the next pixel.

I also move the image down when watching scope movies. In my case I move the image down to the bottom of my 16:9 screen, then mask the top space. Also, you can save your vertical position with any of the 3 AV memory buttons on your remote.
post #2780 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cataphract View Post

Thanks for that vote of confidence. Does the HC4000 offer more lumens than 3800? I guess even if it is 100-200 more, it might make even more of a difference.

They are basically the same. In the tests/reviews the HC4000 had slightly less lumens than that 3800 (probably due to the chip change). But it wouldn't be noticeable.
post #2781 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by deffusse View Post

hc4000 is pretty old now, it's in its 4th (?) year cycle... are the any news of upcoming PJ in hc4000 class? (from mitsubishi ofc)

Not that I've heard of.

DLP's have appeared to hit their peak performance, while other techs like LCD and LCOS continue to improve performance. So many DLP models are 'old' models in a sense. Even many of the newer models are just 3D versions of an older model (no 2D performance gains).

For the price point the HC4000, even being an 'older' model, is still a very good contender. I'd like to see a HC4000 with an adjustable manual iris and a very good dynamic iris (that's adjustable and def eatable). Mits higher models have this to an extent, but they are way more expensive than the HC4000 (at that price I'd just get a JVC!). It's too bad they can't introduce a HC4000 price point PJ with a manual iris and DI, like many budget LCD's.

Though if you're a 3D fan, there isn't anything better than a DLP.
post #2782 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

No distortion with vertical location at all. All it's doing is moving the image to the next pixel.

I also move the image down when watching scope movies. In my case I move the image down to the bottom of my 16:9 screen, then mask the top space. Also, you can save your vertical position with any of the 3 AV memory buttons on your remote.


Thank you, like I supposed there is no problem at all. smile.gif

The first thing i did the other day was to save my new vertical location for 2:35 movies to AVMemory2. smile.gif

Thanks for your help. smile.gif


This HC4000 is a killer for his price, I have only paid 700 euros a week ago, nowdays people all that want is a 3D capable projector like the new W1070 I suppose. 3D is not important for me at all.

I am very happy for the performance this little machine is giving me. I was not expecting this image quality at all. Blow me away. smile.gif
Edited by Juan Samartegui - 1/16/13 at 2:33pm
post #2783 of 2855
Hi Everyone, quick question for all of you that own the HC4000.

I just moved into a new house and now have a dedicated media room. The room is not that big, it's 12' wide by 15' long with 10' ceilings. The room has an electrical outlet on the ceiling for a projector at about 13' from where the screen will go. I want as big of a screen as I can get.

The room has a riser that puts the front row of seating at 9' and the back row about 14'.

With that said what size screen should I be looking for? I was hoping to go with 110".

Will the front row be crazy close to a screen that big?

Does anyone else sit that close to that size of screen?

If it helps I am planning on buying a jamestown screen. Also, not sure if I should go white or gray?

Thanks for the help, sorry if I rambled on too long.....eek.gif
post #2784 of 2855
Thread Starter 
It won't be too bad in the front row, a bit big yah. 106" would be a tiny bit better, but I think you can get away with 110".

If there is no ambient light and for a screen that big, I would stick with a plain white screen. Going brighter at first makes your lamps stay brighter longer, but it's up to you really. You could go with a gray-screen, but I probably wouldn't.
post #2785 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It won't be too bad in the front row, a bit big yah. 106" would be a tiny bit better, but I think you can get away with 110".

If there is no ambient light and for a screen that big, I would stick with a plain white screen. Going brighter at first makes your lamps stay brighter longer, but it's up to you really. You could go with a gray-screen, but I probably wouldn't.

Thanks for the input coderguy! I have read hundreds of your posts.

I was leaning towards the white screen already. And I will have total light control in the room.

I am planning on sitting in the second row and the kids will have the front row. They will probably just think its cool to have the "movie theater" in the house anyway and not care that it is too big. LOL:D
post #2786 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by amalarul View Post

Hey IrishHT not sure whether you have already made the switch to W6000. My ceilings are only 85 inches high. I have posted a pic of the DIY mount that I made. Not the prettiest mount but gets the job done perfectly. The only downside to this installation is that you have to get the alignment to the screen dead on because there is no swivel option. You can move the mount to the left or to the right for fine adjustments.

This the view from the left



This is the view from the right



I have the PJ slightly tilted upwards with +1 keystone.
Sorry for the delay in replying. Been working 10hr days on 2nd shift and with holidays and new year things have been crazy. I sadly am returning my mits today in favor of a hd8600. It seems this will cure all the issues I am having including placement and rbe. Thanks guy for all the help to try and make this work!
post #2787 of 2855
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Samartegui View Post


This HC4000 is a killer for his price, I have only paid 700 euros a week ago, nowdays people all that want is a 3D capable projector like the new W1070 I suppose. 3D is not important for me at all.

I am very happy for the performance this little machine is giving me. I was not expecting this image quality at all. Blow me away. smile.gif

Hello Samartegui, I am interested in purchasing this I Mitsu, could you tell me where you bought it to 700 €? thanks
post #2788 of 2855
I recently noticed a grey,oblique, irregular line on the screen and it is from the pj.
It does not movewhen I adjust the screen up or down.
Fairly obvious during white background or blue sky scenes
It starts from the top edge, about 1/3 in from the right top corner, and extends down towards the center of the screen.
I am running on standard lamp mode, at 1,600 hours, and also noted some light leakages where there were not previously..
What can it be? Lamp failure?confused.gif
post #2789 of 2855
Hi guys.

I am new here, just replaced my old HC1100 for a almost new (80 hours) HC4000.

I am having a great problem calibrating the brightness, using AVS disk.

I have my lamp at normal mode, and using the basic balck clipping pattern even setting the brightness to 30 I cannot see any gryey lines.

Please any help would be apreciated I kinda hoplless here. maybe the unit is defected?

thanks.
post #2790 of 2855
A short but strange update:

I treid twikking between my streamer and my gaming PC:
1. Streamer shows realy bad black like I described, can't see any white/grey lines at all in AVS calibration or the black 'X' in Monster disk/
2. using VLC on the PC I have equal results.
3. using BSplayer I have a whole different thing, even in Low mode I need to put brightness on -10! and I have white walls an the screen is 106", In my HC1100 I needed to put +7 to the brightness.

does anyone has some Idea?

Thanks
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