AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 2813
4/28/11 at 5:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by corriewf View Post

Is it true that the placement of this projector is less forgiving? I am thinking about this projector for my first. Was wanting to ceiling mount from about 13.5 feet away on a 106 inch screen that would start about 10 inches from the ceiling. I want a high picture because I have a central air intake vent that blocks the lower portion of the wall. Could I achieve these goals with this projector? So far this seems to be better than the Epson 8350.


P.S. Coderguy, your a pure asset to this site. I have been reading your post almost religiously. Some of you people should be ashamed of how you have treated this guy. He didn't and doesn't have to post all of his valuable finds, yet volunteers to. Either appreciate it, or keep comments to yourself. That simple.

It's less forgiving since it has no lens shift, horizontal or vertical...which means you have the be able to place it where you want it...the othere big hit is the lens offset ~33%, which means that from 13.5 ft back the image will be ~18" from the top pf the lens which in the case of the ceiling mount the projector is flipped upside down so that is the big pain...so the biggest determining factor will be your ceiling height, to get a non keystone 106" ( I assume that is 16:9 picture and not a 2.35) you will need about 96", which puts the bottom of the screen at about 21" ...Here is the mits projector calc that you can play with the numbers...http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

Just be sure to select reverse and then enter your ceiling height the pole length etc...now this is a perfect setup and not everyone can do this, I needed to tilt mine slightly to raise it off of the floor and apply key stone, which for me is one click....the 8350 is much easier to setup for sure but I think the mits has a much better picture IMHO

Please feel free to ask any questions..I'm driving a 106" screen right now...
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #32 of 2813
4/28/11 at 10:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by OBSSSD View Post

How ironic the person who railroaded the original thread in the ditch with pages and pages of useless information starts a thread like this. LMAO...

This is a sweet experiment for which I voluntarily partake.
From my reckoning 90% of the peoples must be interested in 3D. Who knows what brands AVS sells to compete with the Mitsubishi?
Can two Mitsubishi's 4000 puts side by side create 3D? Would it be brigher?
Reply
Reply
post #33 of 2813
4/28/11 at 12:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

It uses three M4 bolts. You can get them at a hardware store or in the "specialty" bolt and screw drawers at Home Depot or Lowes.

Thanks sir!
Reply
Reply
post #34 of 2813
4/28/11 at 5:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bahsura View Post

Thanks sir!

Glad to help.
Reply
Reply
post #35 of 2813
4/28/11 at 10:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

It's less forgiving since it has no lens shift, horizontal or vertical...which means you have the be able to place it where you want it...the othere big hit is the lens offset ~33%, which means that from 13.5 ft back the image will be ~18" from the top pf the lens which in the case of the ceiling mount the projector is flipped upside down so that is the big pain...so the biggest determining factor will be your ceiling height, to get a non keystone 106" ( I assume that is 16:9 picture and not a 2.35) you will need about 96", which puts the bottom of the screen at about 21" ...Here is the mits projector calc that you can play with the numbers...http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

Just be sure to select reverse and then enter your ceiling height the pole length etc...now this is a perfect setup and not everyone can do this, I needed to tilt mine slightly to raise it off of the floor and apply key stone, which for me is one click....the 8350 is much easier to setup for sure but I think the mits has a much better picture IMHO

Please feel free to ask any questions..I'm driving a 106" screen right now...

Thank you for the information. I think what your saying here is that there is no way to throw an image close to the ceiling? Not to be redundant, but to confirm. Everything seems so perfect about this projector. Coder has done a great job talking me out of an Epson 8350.
Reply
Reply
post #36 of 2813
4/29/11 at 4:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by corriewf View Post

Thank you for the information. I think what your saying here is that there is no way to throw an image close to the ceiling? Not to be redundant, but to confirm. Everything seems so perfect about this projector. Coder has done a great job talking me out of an Epson 8350.

Well you can but would have to mount it on a table/shelf and not ceiling mounted since if you mount it that way the image is projected up at that point opposite of the ceiling mount....make since? The mits link will let you play around with that and show you what the numbers are you can also tilt the projector and that is what I do and apply keystone...you will get lots of opinions about image distortion but I have been unable to see any I know if you read through the other thread there are folks using is with much more keystone then I have and they also stated that they could not see it..of course optimum is no keystone but I wouldn't let that scare me off It didn't for me
Reply
Reply
post #37 of 2813
4/29/11 at 6:21pm
Hello Mits HC4000,

koaz from downunder again about to order the HC4000.
Maybe the good folk on this forum may want to start to share and add their picture / calibrations settings and what room lighting environment you have in this thread so we can share others experiences and settings, only if not too much trouble as for a newbie like me it will help me alot.

many thanks in advance,
koaz
Reply
Reply
post #38 of 2813
4/29/11 at 6:44pm
Calibrating settings would be cool for us nOObers

Capt



Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post

Hello Mits HC4000,

koaz from downunder again about to order the HC4000.
Maybe the good folk on this forum may want to start to share and add their picture / calibrations settings and what room lighting environment you have in this thread so we can share others experiences and settings, only if not too much trouble as for a newbie like me it will help me alot.

many thanks in advance,
koaz
Reply
Reply
post #39 of 2813
4/29/11 at 10:07pm
I just noticed today that there is light spillage all around the PJ on the ceiling. Is it normal ?
Reply
Reply
post #40 of 2813
4/30/11 at 7:06am
I need to say, 2 threads is annoying...
Reply
Reply
post #41 of 2813
4/30/11 at 9:49am
Thread Starter 
Sorry, people were getting annoyed in my comparisons to other projectors, so I created this thread to keep more exactly on topic. I like having a smaller thread that is more on topic and concise, but I can understand both points. The other thread didn't say official so it kept getting off-topic, anyhow didn't mean to upset anyone.
Reply
Reply
post #42 of 2813
4/30/11 at 11:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Sorry, people were getting annoyed in my comparisons to other projectors, so I created this thread to keep more exactly on topic. I like having a smaller thread that is more on topic and concise, but I can understand both points. The other thread didn't say official so it kept getting off-topic, anyhow didn't mean to upset anyone.

Then do the right thing and go delete them.
Reply
Reply
post #43 of 2813
4/30/11 at 1:52pm
Thread Starter 
Only moderators can delete stuff, this thread can remain more on topic and be beneficial as an owner's thread, but up to the moderator's if they want to delete it, doesn't matter to me. The other thread has a lot of non-owner dicussion, not just my posts.
Reply
Reply
post #44 of 2813
4/30/11 at 4:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by srjune1101 View Post

I just noticed today that there is light spillage all around the PJ on the ceiling. Is it normal ?


Yeah its normal for this projector but it shouldn't come close to your screen I had some issues where I had some on the left side of the screen since my front screen is on a large wall that extends way past my projection screen, it was only evident on dark scenes with the lights out....
Reply
Reply
post #45 of 2813
4/30/11 at 6:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post
Hello Mits HC4000,

koaz from downunder again about to order the HC4000.
Maybe the good folk on this forum may want to start to share and add their picture / calibrations settings and what room lighting environment you have in this thread so we can share others experiences and settings, only if not too much trouble as for a newbie like me it will help me alot.

many thanks in advance,
koaz
Hello all (and a quick bump as well)

i have been trying to get my head around Art Feierman's calibrations pre and post settings and for the life of me i am so confussed how he writes them.

below he says best mode being (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color on)

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...erformance.php

and then he talks about pre and post caibrations and that best mode is (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color off)

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...alibration.php

which settings can i use that he has to start with ? or is their one for cinema mode and one for sports mode...

all these numbers do not mean much to me....and his basic settings have thrown me as well with is wording...

i am so confussed atm... am i doing or reading something incorrectly.

can anyone put up their settings and it may make more sense to me please - maybe coderguy can come to the rescue once again ?
if you use two lots of picture settings say one for movies and one for tv or sports thats is fine as well...

koaz the very konfused.
Reply
Reply
post #46 of 2813
5/1/11 at 4:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Only moderators can delete stuff

Regrettably playing dumb and denying reality is an indication of other issues.
You have my sympathy but the merchants must also be upset with customers buying expensive projectors with no intent to keep them.
Reply
Reply
post #47 of 2813
5/1/11 at 4:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post

Hello all (and a quick bump as well)

i have been trying to get my head around Art Feierman's calibrations pre and post settings and for the life of me i am so confussed how he writes them.

below he says best mode being (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color on)

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...erformance.php

and then he talks about pre and post caibrations and that best mode is (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color off)

http://www.projectorreviews.com/mits...alibration.php

which settings can i use that he has to start with ? or is their one for cinema mode and one for sports mode...

all these numbers do not mean much to me....and his basic settings have thrown me as well with is wording...

i am so confussed atm... am i doing or reading something incorrectly.

can anyone put up their settings and it may make more sense to me please - maybe coderguy can come to the rescue once again ?
if you use two lots of picture settings say one for movies and one for tv or sports thats is fine as well...

koaz the very konfused.

Use this:

and then he talks about pre and post caibrations and that best mode is (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color off)

I found no other adjustments were necessary for an accuarte and excellent picture. I'm running the PJ in high lamp mode because I am using a 159" HP Screen and need the brightness, but depending on your setup you may be able to use low lamp mode. Even with a 10" ceiling I had to use 3 clicks of Keystone adjustment to keep the image at the height that I wanted it. If you have lots of ambient light you can use Brillant color for extra brightness during the daytime, but in my opinion the sports mode has a flat out garbage picture quality. With a PJ like this you need at least some light control to enjoy the DLP "pop" to the picture. I have near total light control in the HT room so it really allows the full benefits of the beautiful picture produced when set as recommended above.
Reply
Reply
post #48 of 2813
5/1/11 at 5:49am
Some more pics....looks like the pics are not quite as sharp as they were on the screen, one of these days I'll brake out the tri-pod instead of trying to hold still for the exposures...was trying to get a close up of lelo eye....



Reply
Reply
post #49 of 2813
5/1/11 at 12:28pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

Regrettably playing dumb and denying reality is an indication of other issues.
You have my sympathy but the merchants must also be upset with customers buying expensive projectors with no intent to keep them.

Uh huh, why are you continually directing the same comments over and over again when everyone already took care of it in the other thread
How about keeping unnecessary comments and insults to yourself to keep this thread on track?
Reply
Reply
post #50 of 2813
5/1/11 at 4:59pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OBSSSD View Post

Use this:

and then he talks about pre and post caibrations and that best mode is (Cinema, Medium color temp, Brilliant Color off)

I found no other adjustments were necessary for an accuarte and excellent picture. I'm running the PJ in high lamp mode because I am using a 159" HP Screen and need the brightness, but depending on your setup you may be able to use low lamp mode.

If you don't have a colorimeter, I would still reduce red down a few notches, and while doing so look for green or yellow push as not to do it too much. The projector pushes red out of the box on skin tones, but it does do a nice looking OTB settings anyhow.
Reply
Reply
post #51 of 2813
5/1/11 at 10:03pm
The red push goes away pretty quickly (about 100 hours) according to several others who have posted concerning this. So I figured why bother adjusting it down it will have 100 hours within a few weeks or less.
Reply
Reply
post #52 of 2813
5/1/11 at 11:28pm
Thread Starter 
Yup, you're right, as a matter of fact I just checked with my meter, and now RED is lacking and there is now a BLUE push (even more than the original RED push).

So I just had to make some adjustments to reduce BLUE and increase RED with just around 300 hours on the lamp.

Also sort of confusing is the Mits has a kind of hidden place to adjust the GAMMA curve, which affects the gray scale in a more severe manner than just the CMS. You have to change Gamma Mode to User1 or whatever, and then click the button over this menu item itself, and then the custom gamma settings will appear.
Reply
Reply
post #53 of 2813
5/2/11 at 2:56pm
More screenshots:

Another one from Fifth Element,Leelo towards the end



Here is a screenshot from LOTR, Return of the King, DVD version, another one that Art uses frequently in his reviews...





I can post my calibration files if folks are interested but mine is calibrated against a grey screen not sure if they would help anyone but I can...I also need to go back and check my numbers, I'm up to about 100hrs on the lamp....
Reply
Reply
post #54 of 2813
5/2/11 at 3:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post
More screenshots:
I can post my calibration files if folks are interested but mine is calibrated against a grey screen not sure if they would help anyone but I can...I also need to go back and check my numbers, I'm up to about 100hrs on the lamp....
I am using a 110" Stewart Firehawk gray screen and would be interested in your calibrations.
Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #55 of 2813
5/2/11 at 6:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John P View Post

I am using a 110" Stewart Firehawk gray screen and would be interested in your calibrations.
Thanks

oooh wish I could afford one of those thats a bit different from mine, my screen is prolly closer to a da lite hccv material, very light grey...do you want my HCFR files or do you want my settings on the mits..
Reply
Reply
post #56 of 2813
5/2/11 at 8:36pm
thankyou again OBSSSD and coderguy,

Will try just Cinema , Medium Color Temp , Brilliant Color Off and leave everything else as default for starters.
With Lamp Mode do i start with Standard or Low Mode ?
Then will try some of Art's settings and see how it looks....

koaz
Reply
Reply
post #57 of 2813
5/2/11 at 9:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post

thankyou again OBSSSD and coderguy,

Will try just Cinema , Medium Color Temp , Brilliant Color Off and leave everything else as default for starters.
With Lamp Mode do i start with Standard or Low Mode ?
Then will try some of Art's settings and see how it looks....

koaz

Depending on if you have decent light control low lamp mode should be fine for up to a 120" screen.
Reply
Reply
post #58 of 2813
5/2/11 at 11:05pm
HiFiFun,

Which Lamp Mode do you use Standard or Low Mode on the 120" screen ?

Are the below still the settings you are using:

" The main issue with color accuracy is the red needs reducing. Here are the settings for my most subjective accurate picture settings which deviate from default:

Gamma: Cinema
Temperature: Medium
Contrast: -3
Brightness: -2
Brilliant Color: Off

Advanced Color: Red
Gain: -1
Saturation: -3

I have a 120" High Power Screen which still throws a bright image, even with the projector ceiling mounted. "

koaz
Reply
Reply
post #59 of 2813
5/3/11 at 10:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

oooh wish I could afford one of those thats a bit different from mine, my screen is prolly closer to a da lite hccv material, very light grey...do you want my HCFR files or do you want my settings on the mits..

I would need the settings on the projector.
Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #60 of 2813
5/3/11 at 11:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by John P View Post

I would need the settings on the projector.
Thanks

No problem will post them tonight....
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › Official Mitsubishi hc4000 ONLY Thread