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Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxVT30 Series Thread Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 101

post #3001 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Standard mode is the way it is so that Panasonic can pass Energy Star ratings. It's like that for all manufacturers.


I guess that was too obvious for me to consider. So how do they justify vivid? (just kidding)

by the way, loaded your settings last night. vast improvement. thanks.
post #3002 of 6435
So happy, replacement 65vt30 just arrived. The guys helped me get it out of the box and onto my stand. This one powered on no problem, and the screen is not cracked. Bonus it is a slightly new serial than the previous one. Its like a triple win. Now to get it breaking in and enjoying the new set.
post #3003 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by valhalla View Post

So happy, replacement 65vt30 just arrived. The guys helped me get it out of the box and onto my stand. This one powered on no problem, and the screen is not cracked. Bonus it is a slightly new serial than the previous one. Its like a triple win. Now to get it breaking in and enjoying the new set.

Thats awesome man, I'm glad it worked out for you as well as it did because this TV is capable of incredible performance. Congrats, enjoy.
post #3004 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gempulse View Post

Why do you watch Standard Channels when you have the option to watch HD channels?

because not every SD channel has an HD companion on every system.


for example on my sports pack, there are many standard def only channels; and I'd rather get to watch a game in standard def, than not have it at all
post #3005 of 6435
Well I may have been to quick to rejoice. I started running the breakin slides and noticed I have a small grouping of pixels in the upper left corner that are flickering on and off. Some colors exhibit more dance than others. It is especially bad on blue and red.

Im guessing this one is going back as well

here is a video of the issue
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDwhf2jUK2Q
post #3006 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by valhalla View Post

Well I may have been to quick to rejoice. I started running the breakin slides and noticed I have a small grouping of pixels in the upper left corner that are flickering on and off. Some colors exhibit more dance than others. It is especially bad on blue and red.

Im guessing this one is going back as well

here is a video of the issue
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDwhf2jUK2Q

Oh, man--sorry to hear about that--feel awful for you.

Here's hoping third time's the charm.
post #3007 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by valhalla View Post

Well I may have been to quick to rejoice. I started running the breakin slides and noticed I have a small grouping of pixels in the upper left corner that are flickering on and off. Some colors exhibit more dance than others. It is especially bad on blue and red.

Im guessing this one is going back as well

here is a video of the issue
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDwhf2jUK2Q

Crap. Geez. Feel bad for ya. I'd be so far beyond frustrated. Good luck with whatever your next move is.
post #3008 of 6435
I apologize that I have not read this entire thread but I'm in a bit of a jam. I purchased the Sammy 65D8000 and have the screen pop/fluctuating brightness issue. I read that these had it too, but was fixed with a firmware update. Can anyone confirm this?
post #3009 of 6435
The Fluctuating Brightness is fixed in TV's that are August or newer build dates. Older build dates are fixed by having panasonic come out and replace the A-board. Some people have just returned the TV if not an August or later build date and ordered a new one.
post #3010 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by terzaghi View Post

The Fluctuating Brightness is fixed in TV's that are August or newer build dates. Older build dates are fixed by having panasonic come out and replace the A-board. Some people have just returned the TV if not an August or later build date and ordered a new one.

How do you tell the build date? Serial number?
post #3011 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post

How do you tell the build date? Serial number?

The only sure way is to check the eeprom # in the service menu, but as mentioned, from August onward you should be fine....build date on back of the set.
post #3012 of 6435
Looks like I'm going to return my D8000 for this set because of the brightness fluctuations Are people having any issues with image retention or color uniformity?
post #3013 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn74 View Post

How do you tell the build date? Serial number?

Please see the miniFAQ at the link in my signature line--it will lead you to some useful links to answer your questions.
post #3014 of 6435
I've noticed a few posts recently on pixels being out while running the burn-in slides. Sure this is in the minority for folks seeing this issue but my engineering brain wonders if maybe running the burn-in slides when the display is brand new is possibly pushing it too hard where normal viewing via no static images might be best for a gradual burn-in process especially when folks run it 24 hours straight for days in a row.

Just a thought, maybe no connection at all.

I had the slides ready but decided to just do the burn-in via normal viewing since I figured companies would likely provide a feature like burn-in slides if important. Panasonic provides the anti-image retention feature along with the Orbiter so they obviously know this is important. I have a couple hundred hours probably on my display at this point (need to check service menu to know for sure) with no issue. I recently found the picture quality and especially the color accuracy improved by a huge step after using the D-nice settings along with tweaking the Blue and Red level under 10 IRE. I just watched Avatar along with regular HD content and can't believe the improvement. To my eyes, the colors look so accurate I would swear I just did some kind of FW update. I put the Blue and Red settings under a post on the previous page for anyone interested.

Good viewing!

Robert
post #3015 of 6435
There is no requirement to use the break-in slides at all. The TV is ready to be used out of the box (which is why manufacturers do not include break-in slides). So if you don't wish to use them, just watch and enjoy.

The main reason to use the break-in slides is if you plan to use the DNice settings to try to approximate his calibration of the same model at the same number of hours. (If one uses the DNice settings without following his procedure, then it is unlikely you will achieve the same results, which may account for Robert's findings detailed above)

A second reason to use the break-in slides may be to quickly age the panel so that you can get a professional calibration sooner and/or to quickly get past the first hours of the panel where it is more prone to burned-in images.

Break-in slides are also handy for detecting dead/stuck pixels.

A final reason to use the break-in slides is to stress the panel a bit. Early failure with electronics tends to occur pretty early in the life span. (I personally would want to know if my panel couldn't even handle 100 hours of use, as I would rather any issues crop up before the 30 day return period was up.) This is the same strategy many of us use when breaking in a new computer--you stress them a bit to see if any of the components are dodgy. If they pass the stress test, then handling normal loads should be comparatively easy.

Again, there is no reason not to watch the TV right out of the box unless you are wanting to use break-in slides for a specific purpose.
post #3016 of 6435
Well said, mvp.
post #3017 of 6435
Any word on a color decoding firmware fix?
post #3018 of 6435
HI


Can I run Evangelo 2's burn in dvd for 100 hrs for the Panasonic Vt30? I was curious if there are post burn-in settings from D-Nice. I found the pre burn-in settings at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1371710

Otherwise, I was going to just run the DVD with factory settings for 100 hrs and then get it cal'd.

Would that be OK?

Thanks!

Barry
post #3019 of 6435
I just passed the 100 hours and dialed in DNice's setting. The picture however seems a bit dark using both DNice's setting, as well as THX mode. Watching movies and TV the dark scenes are too dark that I don't get any shadow details. Dark objects such as men's suits are totally black without shadow details (such as fine stripes and lighter texture on the fabric). Dark scenes also look pretty dark. This looks the same for OTA, HTPC, and Panasonic 215 Bluray player. I am not sure if I did something wrong, or I have never seen this low black level before, so it "annoys" me a bit? Another thing I could try is to plug it directly into the wall instead of the crappy Monster HTS 3500 MKII power conditioner.

The brighter scenes look nice, especially the colorful ones. Any body seen something similar?
post #3020 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by punkguins View Post

HI


Can I run Evangelo 2's burn in dvd for 100 hrs for the Panasonic Vt30? I was curious if there are post burn-in settings from D-Nice. I found the pre burn-in settings at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1371710

Otherwise, I was going to just run the DVD with factory settings for 100 hrs and then get it cal'd.

Would that be OK?

Thanks!

Barry

His settings are at high def junkies, just scroll down to find your model series IE: mj, lh, mh. You can use a USB flash drive or an Sd card instead of running a disc player. He said to run it at a high contrast for at least 130 hours I believe before you have it calibrated because of a slight change in the panel.
post #3021 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

I've noticed a few posts recently on pixels being out while running the burn-in slides. Sure this is in the minority for folks seeing this issue but my engineering brain wonders if maybe running the burn-in slides when the display is brand new is possibly pushing it too hard where normal viewing via no static images might be best for a gradual burn-in process especially when folks run it 24 hours straight for days in a row.

Just a thought, maybe no connection at all.

Robert

In my case the panel was obviously defective, the dancing pixels can be seen with normal viewing content. The burn in slides just made it much more apparent, thus alerting me sooner to the defect in the panel. I noticed the problem within the first 5 minutes of starting the slides.
post #3022 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by nullius View Post

I just passed the 100 hours and dialed in DNice's setting. The picture however seems a bit dark using both DNice's setting, as well as THX mode. Watching movies and TV the dark scenes are too dark that I don't get any shadow details. Dark objects such as men's suits are totally black without shadow details (such as fine stripes and lighter texture on the fabric). Dark scenes also look pretty dark. This looks the same for OTA, HTPC, and Panasonic 215 Bluray player. I am not sure if I did something wrong, or I have never seen this low black level before, so it "annoys" me a bit? Another thing I could try is to plug it directly into the wall instead of the crappy Monster HTS 3500 MKII power conditioner.

The brighter scenes look nice, especially the colorful ones. Any body seen something similar?

What type of lighting conditions are you watching the television in?
post #3023 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

There is no requirement to use the break-in slides at all. The TV is ready to be used out of the box (which is why manufacturers do not include break-in slides). So if you don't wish to use them, just watch and enjoy.

The main reason to use the break-in slides is if you plan to use the DNice settings to try to approximate his calibration of the same model at the same number of hours. (If one uses the DNice settings without following his procedure, then it is unlikely you will achieve the same results, which may account for Robert's findings detailed above)

A second reason to use the break-in slides may be to quickly age the panel so that you can get a professional calibration sooner and/or to quickly get past the first hours of the panel where it is more prone to burned-in images.

Break-in slides are also handy for detecting dead/stuck pixels.

A final reason to use the break-in slides is to stress the panel a bit. Early failure with electronics tends to occur pretty early in the life span. (I personally would want to know if my panel couldn't even handle 100 hours of use, as I would rather any issues crop up before the 30 day return period was up.) This is the same strategy many of us use when breaking in a new computer--you stress them a bit to see if any of the components are dodgy. If they pass the stress test, then handling normal loads should be comparatively easy.

Again, there is no reason not to watch the TV right out of the box unless you are wanting to use break-in slides for a specific purpose.



Good points made. I agree with all of them except the one that all panels broken in by the D-nice settings will somehow look different than other ones that are broken in gradually. If that was the case, manufacturers would surely include them. I do believe the slides help speed up the process for then having the display calibrated. In the end either way with enough hours, the phosphorous is going to age sufficiently enough. One experienced calibrator that has done many ISF calibrations on the VT30 recently told me that if he had 10 different VT30's that each one would calibrate differently, from easier to extremely difficult or not even being able to complete due to some underlying issue. Basically due to how Panasonic implemented the hardware for the color control along with VT30's being manufactured at various Panasonic manufacturing sites that use parts sourced from different sources makes one VT30 different from another one. He basically said he doesn't advertise settings he's done knowing this along with each person's viewing environment (lighting etc.) has a huge effect. So seems reason why some have posted various settings they prefer.

No matter really since we're all in the same boat waiting to see if Panasonic will really address the color / luminous issue or not. I sure hope they do.

Robert
post #3024 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

Good points made. I agree with all of them except the one that all panels broken in by the D-nice settings will somehow look different than other ones that are broken in gradually. If that was the case, manufacturers would surely include them. I do believe the slides help speed up the process for then having the display calibrated. In the end either way with enough hours, the phosphorous is going to age sufficiently enough. One experienced calibrator that has done many ISF calibrations on the VT30 recently told me that if he had 10 different VT30's that each one would calibrate differently, from easier to extremely difficult or not even being able to complete due to some underlying issue. Basically due to how Panasonic implemented the hardware for the color control along with VT30's being manufactured at various Panasonic manufacturing sites that use parts sourced from different sources makes one VT30 different from another one. He basically said he doesn't advertise settings he's done knowing this along with each person's viewing environment (lighting etc.) has a huge effect. So seems reason why some have posted various settings they prefer.

No matter really since we're all in the same boat waiting to see if Panasonic will really address the color / luminous issue or not. I sure hope they do.

Robert


Since I've seen no data on how each individual panel measures when it comes off the assembly line, I can't make any accurate assessment of what your calibrator says in terms of his belief that the panels are all radically different.

(One would think Panasonic must have some sort of performance parameters every set has to meet before being sent out into the world. If the variances are really that extreme, that doesn't speak well for the precision of their quality control.)

Here is an alternative hypothesis: Perhaps it is the individual use history of each television at the time of calibration that may be the dominant independent variable that affects each calibration attempt.

We'll never know for sure until someone does a controlled study where they take virgin panels, break then in identically and then calibrate them. (Not holding my breath, but it would be interesting to see! )
post #3025 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by RxpSGR View Post

Any way to display from the youtube app any 3D videos ? When I set the 3D from vieratools to side by side and then switch to the youtube app, picture switches back to normal picture mode.

The only way I've found for the tv to detect side-by-side YouTube videos is through the built-in viera app. Search YouTube for "3d" and the second video is for first person Mario. Hit the 3d button on your remote and select "3d" (not 2d->3d). Should display fine. I tested through the web browser on my ps3 and it did not work.
post #3026 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

His settings are at high def junkies, just scroll down to find your model series IE: mj, lh, mh. You can use a USB flash drive or an Sd card instead of running a disc player. He said to run it at a high contrast for at least 130 hours I believe before you have it calibrated because of a slight change in the panel.

D-Nice has now also posted his 2011 Panasonic settings here on AVS...
post #3027 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

D-Nice has now also posted his 2011 Panasonic settings here on AVS...

Thanks turbe, he hasn't posted the VT settings here yet so I referred to that site. I'm sure he's a super busy guy
post #3028 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

We'll never know for sure until someone does a controlled study where they take virgin panels, break then in identically and then calibrate them. (Not holding my breath, but it would be interesting to see! )



Seems we can agree on this point. As an engineer, the large technical company I work for requires all theories, even if the most logical to have the obvious outcome, to have data to back it up. Since data can't be provided to prove the burn-in slides or my feedback as provided by an experienced ISF calibrator, I'm perfectly fine knowing it really doesn't matter much. In the end, an ISF calibration is recommended with hopes that Panasonic will address the root issue.

Good viewing.

Robert
post #3029 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

We'll never know for sure until someone does a controlled study where they take virgin panels, break then in identically and then calibrate them. (Not holding my breath, but it would be interesting to see! )

I've already done this with the panels VE sells. Based on what I've calibrated, they are very similar.

The greatest variability I see in these panels are with the ones I calibrate in the field where the history of use is completely different than what is and has been done with the displays at VE (Robert uses the same panel aging slides I recommend).

I would not tag my name and reputation to something that was BS.
post #3030 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

I've already done this with the panels VE sells. Based on what I've calibrated, they are very similar.

The greatest variability I see in these panels are with the ones I calibrate in the field where the history of use is completely different than what is and has been done with the displays at VE (Robert uses the same panel aging slides I recommend).

I would not tag my name and reputation to something that was BS.

Hi, D-Nice:

Thanks for the information--that's good to know.

(I didn't mean any offense by my original post)
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