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Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxVT30 Series Thread Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 199

post #5941 of 6435
An odd problem that has come up on my 55" vt30 (the second one I've had).

VERY obvious white noise ("snow") on the left edge of the screen, often accompanied by white flashing/snapping. After playing with it for a while and changing all kinds of settings my Marantz 7005 pre/pro, turns out it only happens when my Marantz 7005's hdmi output #1 is connected to the vt30's hdmi input #1. Both of them are ARC capable. Could the Marantz ARC be generating some type of noise that only the vt30's input #1 is sensitive to? Something to do with ARC? I almost never use ARC, anyway. None of the hdmi settings on the 7005 made any difference, accept the resolution settings-sometimes.

Any other combinations work fine. So odd.
post #5942 of 6435
Okay so a quick little update. I'm a gamer and that's what I'll use my TV for 80% of the time. Any ways, been playing the newly released MASS EFFECT 3 game for about 25hours since Wednesday. Playing single player leaves no IR whatsoever since there is cut-scenes and when not on a mission there's no huds.. so I simply do not even think about it.

On multiplayer there's a bright red cross and the other combat huds which are a bit transparent. If I run the scrolling bar I can see it(the cross) but I decided to try and push it a little bit so played around 1½hours before returning to single player. After a few minutes you couldn't see it any more(with scrolling bar).

I'm not sure how long I can have something that bright and static on, but seeing as most games doesn't have as many cut scenes etc as ME3 we'll see I guess. Very happy so far. Starting to become less and less paranoid about IR (never had any issues apart from me checking with scrolling bar).

Made me think though, would be interesting to see on a lcd with a scrolling bar if you could see any similarities. Cuz I can't see the cross on normal viewing, just the white scrolling bar.
post #5943 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifichip76 View Post

An odd problem that has come up on my 55" vt30 (the second one I've had).

VERY obvious white noise ("snow") on the left edge of the screen, often accompanied by white flashing/snapping. After playing with it for a while and changing all kinds of settings my Marantz 7005 pre/pro, turns out it only happens when my Marantz 7005's hdmi output #1 is connected to the vt30's hdmi input #1. Both of them are ARC capable. Could the Marantz ARC be generating some type of noise that only the vt30's input #1 is sensitive to? Something to do with ARC? I almost never use ARC, anyway. None of the hdmi settings on the 7005 made any difference, accept the resolution settings-sometimes.

Any other combinations work fine. So odd.

It sounds like an HDMI problem (shouldn't have to do specifically with ARC). Did you try switching cables, or trying different inputs on both the TV and Marantz (TV HDMI 1 to Marantz HDMI 2, TV HDMI 2 to Marantz HDMI 3, etc)? Make sure as many variables as possible are eliminated, it could be a very simple fix.
post #5944 of 6435
Just delivered yesterday 3/10. Initial thoughts/comments...
  • This thing is HEAVY. I paid $80 for delivery and am glad I did, as I'm not sure my wife and I could have gotten it upstairs, frankly...
  • It's big, but it almost seems to shrink once turned on. Put another way, I had some concern about it being too big for my (approx 15' X 17') room (with a viewing spot about 13' from the screen) but no more...
  • The set has a build month of Jan 2012, which is good, has virtually no buzz (a very faint amount if I put my ear up to the back of the set, though the fan is actually slightly louder), and is quite attractive (though I would still say the Sammy D7000/8000 screens are better looking).

And, a couple of questions...
  • Is there any reason NOT to do a software/firmware update? Have folks experienced any negatives post-upgrade that didn't exist before?
  • I am using a Boston TVM 25 soundbar and its placement blocks the IR port on the set. This is mostly OK, as I have an IR extender on my cable box (Comcast HD box, fairly basic unit, I think) that allows me to use the box for many TV functions. However, I still have to turn the TV and box on and off separately, and this requires access to the set's IR window. Are there are workarounds to this?

Thanks all, excited to spend some time with this monster.
post #5945 of 6435
Ok so day 3 with my 65VT30 is in the books and so far I love this set. I watched Rio in 3D last night and my jaw dropped the entire time. Simply amazing. I was watching some ABC primetime tonight (Once Upon A Time, Desperate Housewives & GCB) and I was really impressed with the colors. I have it set on THX, and haven't really played with the custom settings. I did NOT run the slides for 100 hours, as I was really impatient to play with my new toy. Couple questions.

1. Is it ABSOLUTELY necessary to run the slides to get a good picture?
2. If I don't run the slides, what are some settings I should try to get a quality picture (since I wouldn't be able to use D-Nice's settings)?

I'll probably have more as I use the set more, but answers to those would really help out. Thanks all in advance.
post #5946 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrD1sturbed View Post

1. Is it ABSOLUTELY necessary to run the slides to get a good picture?

No, but having D-Nice or another professional calibrator here at AVS work on you display will get you the best possible picture quality.

Quote:
2. If I don't run the slides, what are some settings I should try to get a quality picture (since I wouldn't be able to use D-Nice's settings)?

You can try D-Nice's settings, or any others that you find in this thread. It's a good idea to keep a record of all the changes you make.

It's probably a good idea to avoid fixed images, black bars, and high contrast settings for the first few hundred hours.

You can read about owner experiences with professional calibration using the link in the signature section at the bottom of my post. Calibration isn't for everyone, but among those who have had it done, and reported the results here at AVS, almost all have been happy with the results.
post #5947 of 6435
Burn-In/IR Update:

So my IR is still there from the Food Network, and now I see some of the lower-left HUD windows from Mass Effect 3. What bugs me is that I play for a max of two hours at a time, and Mass Effect has those windows up for tops, 30-40% of the game. The rest is full screen cutscenes or wandering around with no HUD to speak of (save the brief dialogue choices). That ratio "should" prevent IR and burn-in, right? I've played 22 hours and already have the same shadowy IR on the green or low white slides. The HUD isn't even white! It's an electric blue deal.

I've always had the pixel orbiter on, and I typically run the slides when I'm done watching anything for an hour or two before I go to bed. I just bought the Disney WOW disc and have run the pixel flipper for at least ten hours so far...and it's still there.

I've babied this thing, have varied content, love the picture, but I'm really pissed off right now if I've somehow ruined it. I saw no IR from football games, no IR from other games (including Mass Effect 2 w/ similar HUD and Skyrim with the HUD turned low), no IR from my widescreen movies. What the hell! Should this be happening with where I'm at hours wise and usage wise?
post #5948 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrD1sturbed View Post

If I don't run the slides, what are some settings I should try to get a quality picture (since I wouldn't be able to use D-Nice's settings)?

Of course you can still use D-Nice's settings (nobody is going to arrest you). I didn't use the slides, and didn't try his settings until after owning my VT30 for about 7 months, and still found his settings to be better than THX (which is what I had been using). Maybe it's not optimized since I didn't follow the procedure, but the real question is whether his settings are better than an alternative, and IMO they are so I still use them.
post #5949 of 6435
Does anyone know if the serial number / build date is available in the software service menu? I was not home when my precious was delivered and wall mounted. I'm not experiencing any issues, just curious though. So far this thing is AWESOME!
post #5950 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by FiOS ConVert View Post

Does anyone know if the serial number / build date is available in the software service menu? I was not home when my precious was delivered and wall mounted. I'm not experiencing any issues, just curious though. So far this thing is AWESOME!

I don't think it is. It is, however, on the box, if the delivery guys left that.

Failing that, I'd just check the EEPROM version, which is what matters the most.
post #5951 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrD1sturbed View Post

Ok so day 3 with my 65VT30 is in the books and so far I love this set. I watched Rio in 3D last night and my jaw dropped the entire time. Simply amazing. I was watching some ABC primetime tonight (Once Upon A Time, Desperate Housewives & GCB) and I was really impressed with the colors. I have it set on THX, and haven't really played with the custom settings. I did NOT run the slides for 100 hours, as I was really impatient to play with my new toy. Couple questions.

1. Is it ABSOLUTELY necessary to run the slides to get a good picture?
2. If I don't run the slides, what are some settings I should try to get a quality picture (since I wouldn't be able to use D-Nice's settings)?

I'll probably have more as I use the set more, but answers to those would really help out. Thanks all in advance.

Please see the mini-FAQ for a reply to your first 2 questions. You might find some other info there useful as well. Good luck!
post #5952 of 6435
I cannot say I followed DNice procedures 100% but i did use his slides for 100 hours and loaded his settings and no doubt its a stunning picture which stops people in thier tracks. Clearly better than any factory option. I never upgraded firmware, dont know my firmware LOL.

Its worth it and in the end if its not for you, no harm or foul.
post #5953 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnytheSkin View Post

Burn-In/IR Update:

So my IR is still there from the Food Network, and now I see some of the lower-left HUD windows from Mass Effect 3. What bugs me is that I play for a max of two hours at a time, and Mass Effect has those windows up for tops, 30-40% of the game. The rest is full screen cutscenes or wandering around with no HUD to speak of (save the brief dialogue choices). That ratio "should" prevent IR and burn-in, right? I've played 22 hours and already have the same shadowy IR on the green or low white slides. The HUD isn't even white! It's an electric blue deal.

I've always had the pixel orbiter on, and I typically run the slides when I'm done watching anything for an hour or two before I go to bed. I just bought the Disney WOW disc and have run the pixel flipper for at least ten hours so far...and it's still there.

I've babied this thing, have varied content, love the picture, but I'm really pissed off right now if I've somehow ruined it. I saw no IR from football games, no IR from other games (including Mass Effect 2 w/ similar HUD and Skyrim with the HUD turned low), no IR from my widescreen movies. What the hell! Should this be happening with where I'm at hours wise and usage wise?


Wow mate that sucks. Been playing ME3 A LOT. 26hours into the SP and done like 6 hours of online. Online there's that static BRIGHT RED CROSS on lower left. Leaves an image obviously, but after switching content it's gone after a few minutes. Played 1h30min MP yesterday with that thing up, no issues. I can see it clearly when running the scrolling bar, but after watching something or playing single player it's gone.

Makes me wonder about new games like the witcher 2 which I know had non transparent huds.. and I wonder how it'll be in Max Payne. So far so good anyways. And Yes, SP shouldn't be an issue since when out of combat it's either no huds or cinematics. That's why I simply don't give a f when playing SP.

EDIT: I could actually see a little IR from my weapon, ran my scrolling bar for 5mins and already started to fade, putting AVATAR in my BR and I will let it run while I go to the gym. Should be gone by then ^_^. I reckong putting a movie is better then the scrolling bar. Auto shut-off after 2h ftw
post #5954 of 6435
This photo doesn't do full justice to the real picture. This is a TWC source that paused so you can see some artifacts. I'll try to take a picture of a bd source soon.
LL
post #5955 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumar2k View Post

This photo doesn't do full justice to the real picture. This is a TWC source that paused so you can see some artifacts. I'll try to take a picture of a bd source soon.

Btw, this is a month after d-nice did his trick.
post #5956 of 6435
Do people see alot of aliasing in the picture, depending on the content you watch? I seem to be noticing it quite a bit, but probably more so due to compression on my satellite provider. Add into that a very soft looking picture depending on what I watch and noise. Bluray material and games look excellent though, just regular tv and more so HD, not visable on SD.
post #5957 of 6435
There is a huge difference in the quality of my Directv picture and movies that I watch on Blu-Ray. Bad sources are really revealed with this set.
post #5958 of 6435
So to answer my own post, the gun hud is now gone after running Avatar and having the TV auto shut-off while I was away. Good times, good times.

Really tempted to buy a calibration disk. If I can't buy the Disney WoW ( not available in europe) which one would you recommend? Anyone used any other disc with this TV?
post #5959 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumar2k View Post


Btw, this is a month after d-nice did his trick.

Glad to hear you are still enjoying the calibration
post #5960 of 6435
A similar issue here -but with the Discovery channel logo burn. One could see the faint outline of the DC logo during the scrolling vertical bar scan, and on most light/white background scenes. I would estimate I identified this issue within the first 100- 200 hour viewing range. So... I simply stopped watching the discovery channel, downloaded a break-in disk from this site, ran the disk 4 to 5 times overnight, and now while some DC residue is there, it is very hard to see.

This IR issue with the Panasonic VT30 series is a big deal, and possibly a deal breaker for potential future buyers from my perspective -I think this forum should hightlight this point.
post #5961 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by ne0busin3ss View Post

A similar issue here -but with the Discovery channel logo burn. One could see the faint outline of the DC logo during the scrolling vertical bar scan, and on most light/white background scenes. I would estimate I identified this issue within the first 100- 200 hour viewing range. So... I simply stopped watching the discovery channel, downloaded a break-in disk from this site, ran the disk 4 to 5 times overnight, and now while some DC residue is there, it is very hard to see.

This IR issue with the Panasonic VT30 series is a big deal, and possibly a deal breaker for potential future buyers from my perspective -I think this forum should hightlight this point.

Sorry to hear about your Discovery channel issue.

Just curious: how much Discovery channel watching (i.e. frequency and longest duration) brought on the IR?
post #5962 of 6435
No burn in or IR here. Any IR I get goes away in seconds.
post #5963 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

Sorry to hear about your Discovery channel issue.

Just curious: how much Discovery channel watching (i.e. frequency and longest duration) brought on the IR?

Hi,

During the first 100 hours -probably 55- 65%. The logo was always on during the shows, off during commercials, so it was not a constant on situation. The set seems fine for now, I can barely see any residual DC artifacts.
post #5964 of 6435
Couple of thoughts here based on the recent IR related posts. I am not sure if this is already done elsewhere. Or may be it is so crazy that no one ventured into this ;-)

1. I think we should petition all the channels that do not have a transparent logo - Discovery, NG, History, Golf, etc - to go transparent. I understand we may be a small number but I don't think it is that big a deal for the channels to do that. Maybe this should be sponsored by all plasma manufacturers. Already several channels have fixed their logos, why can't others.

2. Can we categorize the IR issues as first few hundred hours, with calibrated sets, without calibration, with D-Nice settings etc. This will also serve as a guidance for future owners to minimize if not avoid.
post #5965 of 6435
I just received my 65" VT30 a few days ago. Not bad of a TV. I am starting to like it. Have not calibrated the tv. I'm a novice. Can someone point me to a thread to follow for this?

Another thing not I noticed. When using Youtube in Vieracast I can't get the same content as searching from a pc. I even added a video to my favorites and went to the tv to try and play it, well it didn't appear. Is this app limited on the content or a parential setting that I need to adjust? Anything else I should be aware of with the apps on the tv?
post #5966 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by kumar2k View Post


1. I think we should petition all the channels that do not have a transparent logo - Discovery, NG, History, Golf, etc - to go transparent. I understand we may be a small number but I don't think it is that big a deal for the channels to do that. Maybe this should be sponsored by all plasma manufacturers. Already several channels have fixed their logos, why can't others.

Good luck. Myself and others have contacted ESPN, which is clearly the worst of the worst for burn in, and we were met with a brick wall.
post #5967 of 6435
My 65VT30 manufacture date is Nov 2011. Have 2.2 firmware and eeprom 84.46. Have had set for two weeks. I'm noticing screen flicker (flashing) reqularly when watching hockey games. It's not the brightness fluctuate I have read about. Any ideas for fix? Is this an adjustment or service call to Panasonic. I have done the 100 hr and D-Nice calibration set-up. Flicker was there before the calibration set-up. Any ideas?
post #5968 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_b View Post

Do people see alot of aliasing in the picture, depending on the content you watch? I seem to be noticing it quite a bit, but probably more so due to compression on my satellite provider. Add into that a very soft looking picture depending on what I watch and noise. Bluray material and games look excellent though, just regular tv and more so HD, not visable on SD.

I agree with what others have stated in that the VT series sets seem to show bad video signals in all of their ugly glory. High quality HD signals look great to truly amazing but it's almost like anything that isn't nearly pristine looks bad to outright horrible. That's been my experience with my set anyway. At times while watching a show on Netflix I'll be really amazed at how the picture almost looks like its from a blu-ray source and other times it looks like garbage. Even some less than great blu-rays look bad while the good ones look spectacular.
post #5969 of 6435
Perhaps some blame should be given to the source and the transfer of same?
post #5970 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnytheSkin View Post

Burn-In/IR Update:

So my IR is still there from the Food Network, and now I see some of the lower-left HUD windows from Mass Effect 3

I own the VT30 and also see IR...I watch a lot of ESPN/ESPNEWS HD and the logo on the bottom right is retained on my screen...very faint and only notice it against an all white or very light background but it's definitely there...ran the scrolling bar and it got better but it's still there...so anyone who says that IR is no longer a problem on 2011 sets is misinformed
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