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Official Panasonic 2011 TC-PxxVT30 Series Thread Discussion Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 204

post #6091 of 6435
I can't seem to find it in this thread - how do you check hours on the TV?

-JR
post #6092 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JuiceRocket View Post

I can't seem to find it in this thread - how do you check hours on the TV?

-JR

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21210910

Bookmark that...

MVP has it as his signature... very helpful !!
post #6093 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by chess View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21210910

Bookmark that...

MVP has it as his signature... very helpful !!

Done! Thank you.

-JR
post #6094 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

Those of you using Custom for your normal tv viewing - cable - what settings for contrast are you using? I like it around 80 to 85, but I've mostly had it at 40 fr my first 300 hours - just passed the 300 mark. I will prob stay conservative for the next 200, but would like a guideline for contrast once I get there. I appreciate all of the help.

I use D-Nice's settings (72 for me).
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post21184215
post #6095 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

Before I forget, here is the special link for the AVS discount (you might email the company to make sure it's still in effect): http://powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html

I'll try to locate that picture for you (although it's the old powerbridge version--the new plates are cooler).

I just received the powerbridge in the mail, it looks great, I'm very excited to install it over the weekend. Unfortunately the box was missing the 6' "Powerconnect cord". I'm about to send an email to Powerbridge to have them send me the missing cord.

*edit* - just called Powerbridge directly, they're going to send out a cable today, and gave me an option of a white, black, 6' or 3'. I took a 6' white cord. Unfortunately I paid $20 for 2 day shipping, but it turns out you can use pretty much any extension cord, so I'll just use one I have for now.

Thanks again for the suggestion, this looks like it'll be a great solution.

-JR
post #6096 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post

Those of you using Custom for your normal tv viewing - cable - what settings for contrast are you using? I like it around 80 to 85, but I've mostly had it at 40 fr my first 300 hours - just passed the 300 mark. I will prob stay conservative for the next 200, but would like a guideline for contrast once I get there. I appreciate all of the help.

I did the break in and am using Dnice settings
post #6097 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by chess View Post

Everyone....

After the Panel Break in and setting up D-Nice settings... do you always use custom ?

or do you change it to game mode if your playing a game etc ?

Just curious

I use custom for gaming as well
post #6098 of 6435
Another quick comment about Powerbridge.

Less than an hour after I got off the phone with Powerbridge, I received notification that they've sent out the power cord via FedEx. Now that is amazing customer service!

-JR
post #6099 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by terzaghi View Post

I use custom for gaming as well

Do you leave contrast at 100 in game mode?
post #6100 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Riddle View Post


Do you leave contrast at 100 in game mode?

No, I'm using dnice settings, probably around 72 or so but don't remember exactly
post #6101 of 6435
Edit
post #6102 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JuiceRocket View Post

Another quick comment about Powerbridge.

Less than an hour after I got off the phone with Powerbridge, I received notification that they've sent out the power cord via FedEx. Now that is amazing customer service!

-JR

Good for you--I was very happy with their product and service as well. (PS: I ended up using the 15W yellow jacketed Molex for the inwall cord--probably overkill, but I figured: what the heck! )
post #6103 of 6435
So I noticed that my plasma has three small scratches on the screen itself. I never even knew they were there, they are quite long however. I tried using a plasma cleaner, I think they are real scratches. Anyone recommend anything else?
post #6104 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohanman View Post

So I noticed that my plasma has three small scratches on the screen itself. I never even knew they were there, they are quite long however. I tried using a plasma cleaner, I think they are real scratches. Anyone recommend anything else?

If the glass is scratched then there is nothing you can do that I know of
post #6105 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by terzaghi View Post

If the glass is scratched then there is nothing you can do that I know of

Crazy, I don't even know how it happened, must have been when I moved it, but its hardly noticeable unless you put your face 5" from the screen..
post #6106 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohanman View Post


Crazy, I don't even know how it happened, must have been when I moved it, but its hardly noticeable unless you put your face 5" from the screen..

Well I wouldn't worry about it then
post #6107 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by terzaghi View Post

Well I wouldn't worry about it then

and remember to keep your face at least 6" from the screen!!!
post #6108 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

Good for you--I was very happy with their product and service as well. (PS: I ended up using the 15W yellow jacketed Molex for the inwall cord--probably overkill, but I figured: what the heck! )

I did the "install" yesterday, very straightforward, clear instructions, and I really liked how clearly the actual power wires were marked.

I've yet to try it out, but I went ahead and used the molex cable that was included with the pack. I didn't even wonder if there was higher rated cable.

I'm new to all this stuff...so hopefully this question makes sense. When I stripped off the outer shell of the molex cable, the bare (ground) wire had what looked like paper around it. I just pulled it back and left it there. Should I have cut it off and removed all of it?

-JR
post #6109 of 6435
Oh no! I was zoning today and watching the "break in"slides when I noticed a little mark of dirt or something on the screen. having a toddler, I figured it was probably a drop of milk from a bottle that may have splashed up on the screen.

Unfortunately not only is it not a piece of dirt, it's clearly a dead pixel. What a bummer. I'm so surprised that it just showed up. I've gone over the screen many times on detail, so I'm sure it wasn't there before. I'm going to have to live with it, but a bummer for sure.
post #6110 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JuiceRocket View Post

Oh no! I was zoning today and watching the "break in"slides when I noticed a little mark of dirt or something on the screen. having a toddler, I figured it was probably a drop of milk from a bottle that may have splashed up on the screen.

Unfortunately not only is it not a piece of dirt, it's clearly a dead pixel. What a bummer. I'm so surprised that it just showed up. I've gone over the screen many times on detail, so I'm sure it wasn't there before. I'm going to have to live with it, but a bummer for sure.

Sorry to hear this--is it a central pixel or peripheral?

I'm sure nothing helps, but if it's any small consolation, it's likely you'll never, ever seek the pixel when you use the panel, especially if it's peripheral. They are usually far less noticable than a stuck pixel.
post #6111 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

Sorry to hear this--is it a central pixel or peripheral?

I'm sure nothing helps, but if it's any small consolation, it's likely you'll never, ever seek the pixel when you use the panel, especially if it's peripheral. They are usually far less noticable than a stuck pixel.

From center screen, it's roughly 4 inches to the right, 6 inches up. I can only really see it when I'm around 4-5" feet from the screen, and even then only when there are fairly static scenes (like the sky, or something with a small variation of color). Thankfully from our typical viewing distance, I can't see it.

Interestingly enough, if I get really close to the screen and pixel, it looks like a smudge in the glass, as if something got caught in there. But, when you back away, it visually becomes distinctly the one pixel.

Such is life, this is my third Panny plasma and the only one that's had a issue with a pixel, so I'm not entirely upset!

-JR
post #6112 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by geomark View Post

It's bad. You want 84.46 and a build date of at least August with serial number XX1215XXXX or greater. I would exchange it for another one. It's possible the one you have has been sitting in their warehouse awhile. Your other option is taking delivery and contacting Panasonic for the Aboard swap. I hear it's a simple process.

Agree it being a simple process. I called last night and they raised the typical questions "Do you notice this during sports?" and the usual questions re: CATS and firmware release. I gave them the technical bulletin service code and all was good.

Based on previous posts, I'm guessing I will get my follow-up phone call soon. If this works as reported, I will buy an extended warranty which expires this month, else I will defer and take my chances.

For now, kudos to Panasonic.
post #6113 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominus View Post

Agree it being a simple process. I called last night and they raised the typical questions "Do you notice this during sports?" and the usual questions re: CATS and firmware release. I have them the technical bulletin service code and all was good.

Based on previous posts, I'm guessing I will get my follow-up phone call soon. If this works as reported, I will buy an extended warranty which expires this month, else I will defer and take my chances.

For now, kudos to Panasonic.

The A-board replacement is no big deal at all. It takes all of about three minutes. They unscrew the back panel, unplug the old board, plug in the new one, screw the back panel on, and you're done. Kind of silly to even have a tech come out to do it really. The board will have the proper firmware already installed. I would not hesitate to buy one of the early models with the old board. If you get a deal, I would go for it and just have them make the swap. That is, even if you happen to get one with the FBR issue. Chances are decent that you won't even have the issue in the first place. I didn't.
post #6114 of 6435
Hi friends
I am looking at a display set which has been out for a month... it will be close to $700 cheaper than new.
Anything I should look out for, and is that a good deal?

I am looking over my shoulder as I ponder, given that the VT50 will be released where I live in less than 1-2 months...
Plus the availability of the Samsung E8000 too.
Will the VT 30 be a better bet than a new E8000 (which should cost about USD 700 more than the display).

Thanks
post #6115 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jigsore View Post

The A-board replacement is no big deal at all. It takes all of about three minutes. They unscrew the back panel, unplug the old board, plug in the new one, screw the back panel on, and you're done. Kind of silly to even have a tech come out to do it really. The board will have the proper firmware already installed. I would not hesitate to buy one of the early models with the old board. If you get a deal, I would go for it and just have them make the swap. That is, even if you happen to get one with the FBR issue. Chances are decent that you won't even have the issue in the first place. I didn't.

I never noticed it myself on my machine (I thought I did once but could have been an anomaly) but since I am close to the expiration date on my warranty, I went ahead and set up the appointment (Panny was great btw) for next Friday the 13th.

Now, will I need to worry about my D-Nice Calibration Settings being changed?

Also, what are people's opinions on buying the extended warranty?

Thanks for any info.
post #6116 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominus View Post

I never noticed it myself on my machine (I thought I did once but could have been an anomaly) but since I am close to the expiration date on my warranty, I went ahead and set up the appointment (Panny was great btw) for next Friday the 13th.

Now, will I need to worry about my D-Nice Calibration Settings being changed?

Also, what are people's opinions on buying the extended warranty?

Thanks for any info.

Your settings will be set back to the defaults, but no big deal, just re-enter them. I would buy the Square Trade 3yr plan through Costco for $99. The most you can lose is $99.
post #6117 of 6435
I will be taking delivery of my new 65VT30 this Sat. So excited to be joining the Panasonic plasma group after being a Samsung DLP owner for the last 7 years.
post #6118 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jigsore View Post

Your settings will be set back to the defaults, but no big deal, just re-enter them. I would buy the Square Trade 3yr plan through Costco for $99. The most you can lose is $99.

Ouch! D-nice spent 5 hours (long time) calibrating my TV. I have no clue how to re-enter that information. I will have to cancel my appt if that is true.

Thanks for the info re: Costco though I will also need to join. Panny wants 219 bones for one year.
post #6119 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzybk View Post

I will be taking delivery of my new 65VT30 this Sat. So excited to be joining the Panasonic plasma group after being a Samsung DLP owner for the last 7 years.

Nice.

Congratulations, you will love it.
post #6120 of 6435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominus View Post

I never noticed it myself on my machine (I thought I did once but could have been an anomaly) but since I am close to the expiration date on my warranty, I went ahead and set up the appointment (Panny was great btw) for next Friday the 13th.

Now, will I need to worry about my D-Nice Calibration Settings being changed?

Since you don't see the problem, I would not replace the A board (I didn't with mine) since it will delete all of D-Nice's work on your set.
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