Official Samsung LNxxD630 Owner's Thread - Page 19

Cool. Thanks for the info. I think I currently have it set to "off" and have had it off since I bought it. I've never had to worry about until now since my last tv was the Samsung UN55B6000. That tv was damn-near amazing and had excellent motion resolution.
Does the 2:3 pulldown have any effect if the tv is in 16x9 (overscan) and not screen-fit? I don't particular like the gaps of space on the top and bottom with screen-fit but don't know how to fix it so I just leave it 16x9.

aspect ratio/overscan has nothing to do with 2:3 pulldown


you can probably leave 24p OFF on the PS3 (as you have been doing so far) since I'm pretty sure it works properly on the PS3 but couldn't say with 100% certainty that the D630 does it perfectly too... since the D630 has various motion issues, the less motion processing it does the better

and you do have the latest firmware on the D630?

1004.0 is what I have. I'll just leave it off as I have for the last 5 years.

the website only shows 1002.2 (http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/LN46D630M3FXZA?)... weird, you think by now they would have put the latest version on the website (considering the model is pretty much discontinued at this point)

I have my AMP settings on Clear. What film mode shoud I set it on or does it matter? (Auto 1, Auto 2, Off)

Auto1 has always been the correct setting for that.

I have a LN46D630 and have a question about my display. Does it support PAL input signals via HDMI? I have a lot of DVD's from Germany and would like to watch them.

I watched Raiders of the Lost Ark last night on Blu-Ray. The trilogy is in 1080/24p. My PS3 was set on Automatic for 1080/24Hz. The AMP Settings on the TV were on Clear and I did not see any judder/stutter. However, when the camera panned, background images vibrated a little. It was not bothersome at all though. I have calibrated via Disney WOW with the TV on Standard and have no complaints. After the movie was over I played a PS3 game and noticed Dynamic made the game look 100 times better than Standard. Anyone use Standard for regular content but Dynamic for video games?

sound like the effects of 2:3 pulldown, which happens in Clear

Does no one know this about the Samsung displays?

So if you're playing back a film at 1080p/24, what AutoMotion setting on the Samsung gives the steadiest, non-jerky images?

Clear is best on the D630 (Custom does 5:5 pulldown, which is better than 2:3 pulldown but the mode is broken on the D630 so it doesn't matter)

On the EH6000 I had, Custom was best (BR 10 and JR 0).

What are people using to gauge their AMP settings?
What I did to test both blur and judder reduction was to set start & endpoints for a repeating segment of video on my dvd player.
I saw the most dramatic AMP results when watching animation, so that's what I used, in a scene where there was movement from left to right.
When I adjusted the judder, a piece of foreground "scenery" would be affected. With judder at zero, it would look blurry. When judder was set to ten, it would look like this part of the scenery was a cardboard cutout moving independently from the rest of the image (very dramatic and "3d", for lack of a better word). Any numbers between zero and ten would produce a predictable difference. I mean the blur simply got less and less until there was none at ten.
Every once and a while there would be a "skip" in the smoothness. But this was present using all settings above zero. There didn't seem to be less frequent "skips" based on the judder setting.

On the other hand, I couldn't notice any difference when adjusting blur.
What should I be looking for? It seems like everyone is doing the opposite of my settings.

Plasma,
I don't understand the 5:5 pulldown comment. I checked the wiki article so I have an understanding of pulldown, but I am lost as to how this translates to AMP settings.

I can definitely notice when it's working horribly. This shows up on 1080i TV shows as a combination of the "soap opera effect" (smooth image that looks like live video) interspersed with skips that look like dropped frames. You can clearly see how the AMP feature is working if you have a repeated video scene that pans slowly from one side to the other and there is some kind of pattern in the background, such as an in-focus brick wall.

The easiest way I've found to check the settings is with the Spears & Munsil BD test disc, which has such a brick wall scene in its opening "demo sequence"--just use the repeat function on your player to run this brief fragment over and over as you try different settings. There are also several test sequences (panning as a race car moves past some bleachers, or a test pattern) that are supplied on the disc in various pulldown proportions. BTW, I found this disc very hard to use until I went on the manufacturer's website and downloaded the elaborate explanatory notes that should have been in the box!

Everyone knows the AMP sucks on everything but clear with 1080i but how does the AMP look on 1080p? Like I mentioned before, Raiders of the Lost Ark looked good with it on clear but didn't think to test out smooth or standard. Also, Dynamic may give video games an initial "pop" but it washes everything out. Standard looks the best on regular content and games.

something like this maybe: Now that I think about it, I don't know if I've noticed any dropped frames or skip with 1080p, but most of my content is lower resolution. Will have to check some more.

Maybe I should rephrase what I was asking about earlier:
Has anyone tested judder reduction and blur reduction independently using custom settings? I can see a difference with judder reduction as mentioned in my earlier post, but none with blur reduction. So completely ignoring the frame dropping or skipping issue for a moment, what does blur reduction look like vs. what judder reduction looks like?

I was watching Mr. Bean on Netflix Streaming last week. I noticed that everything with a straight-edge in the background, only when the camera panned, was bent or curved. After the camera stopped panning it was normal. I didn't think too much about it since it was an old show on Netflix Streaming. Last night we watched Hook on Blu-Ray (1080/24p with tv on Clear for AMP) and allthough it was not as bad as Mr. Bean and sometimes not even noticable, I did still see things in the background curve towards the middle of the screen. I know for certain I saw it on Mr. Bean but now that I think about it I'm still on the fence about what I saw on Hook. I can't tell if it was just me looking for it too much and seeing it because I wanted to see it or if it was really bending or curving straight edges (doors, hanging ropes, building structures). Anyone else see anything like this before on the D630 or does anyone know if there is a term/reason why this would happen?


I just watched the same Mr. Bean episode on my laptop and the same curving of straight edges (fireplace, walls, and tables).
Edited by Justin Sullins - 10/27/12 at 12:17pm

This has to be something about the print of Mr. Bean that Netflix is using--is this one of the movies, or is it the old TV episodes? I have never seen any problems with perspective distortion on the Samsung except with some of the movies from India that Netflix is showing at the wrong aspect ratio.

I am trying to watch Region Code B Blu-rays on my PS3 from Germany on my LN46D630. The Blu-rays all start playing at first and then stop when the Blu-ray menu should appear. The TV starts displaying no input. Does anyone know why this happens? German Blu-rays have the same resolution etc. like U.S. Blu-rays.

I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago with an American Blu-Ray (9). Couldn't get it to work and my tv kept displaying "no signal." It was brand-new, factory sealed. It's cleary not the tv. Could be the disc or player. Maybe your player won't recoginize those discs. Try it on a different player to see if it works.

I kinda answered my own question. It exhibited the same defect on my laptop so I know it's not the D630. I did however, see a little of the same bending on Hook but I don't know if it was just an optical illusion because of what I saw on Mr. Bean or if it really happened. The Mr. Bean was the TV Show not any of the movies. I've never seen any of this on regular tv at 1080/60i though. Is it possible that the Hook issue was due to the fact that it was an older movie that wasn't properly restored to 1080p properly? The older Total Recall Blu-Ray was kinda weak (PQ) even though it was a "Blu-Ray." I'm sure the newer blu-ray edition of Total Recall is alot better.

Update: I watched Indiana Jones: Temple of Doom last night on Blu-Ray (1080/24p) and did not notice any of the bending/curving. I wanted to test out the AMP and the same results. Clear is the best. Smooth brought the movie to life so to speak but had some mild juddering issues. Although not as bad as regular TV it was still there and bothersome when it happened. Overall I'm very happy with this set and love the PQ on eveything from TV, PS3 Games, to Blu-Ray Movies. My only complaint is the AMP Feature or lack there of.

You will find that some tv's just handle motion better than others. Part technical and part user visual acuity. There's always trade-offs in tv's and it just depends if you can overlook the perceived "flaws" in your set. If you're mostly happy with your set, then it's the perfect tv

There is an LN40D630 available at a local Best Buy for $409.99 (399.99 after my Reward Zone Coupon). Is this a good idea, assuming the item works as expected? Or am I better off waiting until closer to Christmas to get a better deal on a new TV?

Am I also going to be missing out on a lot if I go with this TV over either the EH5000 or the EH6000? I figure I might be missing out on some brightness or image uniformity, but is that really it (aside fro size)?

I didn't want to post in the 'help me choose an LCD" because I was particularly interested in D630 owners on this one. TV would be used for mostly light TV watching, gaming, and Blu-Ray/streaming video.

I've had the EH6000 and currently have the 46" D630. Both have faults. EH6000 has great uniformity and good motion resolution but the PQ is not that great IMO. The D630 has excellent PQ, great viewing angles (SQ01 Panel), and as long as you keep the AMP on Clear the motion is fine. Both are good sets but I'd prefer the D630 over the EH6000 just in PQ alone.

Thanks for your input! Apparently it looks like the TV was a display model so I got my hopes up over nothing haha. It's nice to know though that this TV is an option moving forward. I'll have to add it to the Wish List. Thanks again.

The Samsung EH6030 is also a great choice. I like it significantly better than the regular 6000 (and I had the 6000 for over three weeks before returning it). It lacks AMP but doesn't need it as the motion is actually quite a bit better than the 6000 (probably has something to do with it still being 120Hz despite no AMP and supporting 3D).

Thanks for your answer. I tried many Blu-rays and played around with the video/display settings at this point and still don't know the answer.

I tried Transporter and it didn't work at all on my PS3. For some reason it worked on my American Blu-ray Player (shouldn't play it at all because the disc is region code B).

I tried Transporter 2 and it didn't work until I switched the HDMI 24p output from automatic to on.

I tried Transporter 3 with the same settings and it didn't work. This movie worked after turning the Blu-ray internet setting from allowed to confirmation and I didn't allow the internet connection when I put the disc in.

It seems like some random setting is the problem for every movie. The movies all work at the beginning and stop working at the moment when the Blu-ray menu should be displayed. It shows all the crap at the beginning of the disc and then says no signal when the menu should appear.

Is there a chance that the HDMI cable might be the problem?

I just bought a D630 at a bargain price.The picture is lovely in relation to my old TV. Things have improved in the last 5 years.
But 2 problems.

I have everything connected to a Sony receiver: Samsung BD player and Dish SB. The code I used for the Dish remote to turn the TV on/off, 738, also turns off the receiver. And doesn't turn it on.
And when I use the BD it goes to the right output but turning it off the receiver defaults to the TV output. So it has to be manually changed back to HDMI.

Any suggestions? Does Anynet+ figure into this?
My old set I could turn to a music channel and turn off the TV using the Dish remote. Or watch a BD using the Samsung remote and the receiver would revert to HDMI after shutdown.

Turn off Anynet+. This is a form of HDMI-CEC, which lets devices connected to each other using HDMI turn each other off and on.

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportOwnersHowToGuidePopupPrint.do?howto_guide_seq=1563&howto_guide_step_no=4&prd_ia_cd=N0000043&map_seq=2260

(and be sure to read the Tip under STEP 1)

HDMI-CEC can often create issues.