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I need some advice please

post #1 of 40
Thread Starter 
So I recently decided I want a subwoofer in my car.
From what I have listened to a single 12" or two 12"s would suite my style.
Mainly listening to rap etc.

One of the guys I work with is offering me two 12" Sony Xplods, Model XS-L124P5B in a ported box. They seem to run around $50-75 per used.
Also, his Sony 1200W Amp, XM-GTR2022 1/2. For $250

Which he only runs one of the two subs on. Not sure why, I don't think it is meant to handle two. I would be fine with running one though.
I don't know much about car audio and have been wracking my brain out deciding if I should bite on it. I'm somewhat on a budget and for a starting sub it doesn't seem bad.

I have heard bad things about sony's xplod series, but at this price is it worth it?

I plan to have someone help me wire my car for this etc. Also, not sure what deck to grab as I've seen a few good ones in the $100-150 range.

Anyone guidance would be appreciated, thanks.
post #2 of 40
that's a pile of junk, and not worth anywhere close to $250

start researching at DIYMA,
post #3 of 40
Thread Starter 
Seems like a good site.

I will start getting some reading in and pass on the Sony deal.

Do you think if I'm willing to spend $500-600 including install I can get a decent starter setup?
post #4 of 40
The amp your friend wants to sell you is selling for $137.00 new on eBay with free shipping. I have no experience with it.

I'm not to sure about the subs you are referring to. I have no experience with them as well.

If you are looking for bass only without concern for sound quality, there are plenty of options for you to choose from. What is your budget for your needs?
post #5 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daledkwb View Post
The amp your friend wants to sell you is selling for $137.00 new on eBay with free shipping. I have no experience with it.

I'm not to sure about the subs you are referring to. I have no experience with them as well.

If you are looking for bass only without concern for sound quality, there are plenty of options for you to choose from. What is your budget for your needs?
Just edited my above post but I will explain a bit further.

Basically, I hadn't planned to do a lot of reading on subs etc as I usually do with other things.

But to avoid being screwed I figured I'd at least get an idea of what's good etc.

I think the subs he is selling me got decent reviews and are around 50-75 used a piece but, to use mono on that amp I can only really run one of the subs.

My budget is roughly $500 at the most but that includes Subs,enclosure,amp,wiring,deck etc.

My friend works at Bestbuy and I'm not sure if they get any good discounts. I'll find out tomorrow. The kickers there seem ok and they have some acceptable amps from what I can tell. I know most people hate on them but if the price is right, might be some options there.
post #6 of 40
there is no fast and easy in car audio my friend, even when paying massive dollars, if you don't have the knowledge you will always overpay for mediocre gear

best buy sucks, so do Kicker subs, used gear and diy stuff from parts express is the way to go

if you absolutley must have a more simple solution, the JL Audio prefab systems are pretty good, the one below is $300, better stuff is often available used for less than that

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10RG-W3v3.html

again, do your research, it will be the difference between something just ok and something great
post #7 of 40
Ok, I have heard that the employees do get pretty good discounts. Of course, I'm not 100% sure of that. If you do choose to go for the 2-12" Sony subs, they are probably 4 ohms each. Which means the amp he was suggesting isn't stable to a 2 ohm load. That's why he's only running one. When you hook up 2-12" 4 ohm subs in parallel you end up with a 2 ohm load in mono.

Best Buy has Alpine of which you can get a deck with pre outputs for around $140 or so. Pioneer is also a good brand they carry. Just try to find the options you would be interested in.

I can say that at one point I ran a Jensen 1050 watt amp ($99) and it did what it was suppose to. I ran 2-10" JL audio subs and had some pressure to them. My cabin gain is pretty good which helps as well. A friend of mine was so impressed and on a budget he went out and got the same amp to run 2-12" kickers. This amp is 2 ohm stable at a great price. Best Buy also has good amps from Alpine, Kenwood, Polk, Rockford, and Pioneer. All are ok amps. Try to find what fits your budget.
post #8 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlfromcanada
there is no fast and easy in car audio my friend, even when paying massive dollars, if you don't have the knowledge you will always overpay for mediocre gear

best buy sucks, so do Kicker subs, used gear and diy stuff from parts express is the way to go

if you absolutley must have a more simple solution, the JL Audio prefab systems are pretty good, the one below is $300, better stuff is often available used for less than that

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10RG-W3v3.html

again, do your research, it will be the difference between something just ok and something great
I agree with researching and I'm a very big DIY guy. But sometimes when time and budget (among other factors) call for it we have the option to pop on by a Best Buy or similar retailer. Although not my first choice ever, I would never say they are a bad place to go. I would just say it's an option for your personal needs.
post #9 of 40
500 for a budget and you listen to predominately rap.
Do you have access to tools?
can you build a enclosure for subs?
What vehicle is this going in?

This sub enclosure combo. Most likely no tax and free shipping
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/G2-12...stem-P703.aspx
This amp (see above)
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/GT-40...shed-P712.aspx

This head unit if it fits your car(or any that offer the same bells and whistles for +-20 bucks)
http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500CDA1...5.html?tp=5684

This wiring kit. it's oversized. If you eventually get say another sub and a bigger mono amp this will allow you to more easily upgrade without running more wire or changing to a larger gauge. I have used about 6-7 of these on mine and other's vehicle. great stuff for the money.

Not sure what car you have so can't suggest any interior speakers for the front.

http://www.millionbuy.com/view_produ...iring-Kit.html
post #10 of 40
Thread Starter 
I do have tools and could build an enclosure for a sub but, since I'm starting I'd rather make that my second project and for now just find something decent.

The deck you recommended was one I was looking at.

Going to check in with BB today just to see what employee cost is. There is also a local place called Mach1 that seem to know their stuff. A lot of people have recommended them and they currently have a buy one get one free sub deal. Not amazing and I'm sure I'd still pay a bit more but I'll have to talk to them first.

Out of curiosity, would something like this not be worth it?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...fer&cp=4&lp=11
post #11 of 40
That enclosure sub combo will work fine. Just make sure your amp isstable to 2 ohms bridged if it is a stereo amp otherwise you may burn through several amps not realizing its the sub impedance. Also when looking at an amp, make sure you get one with a sub sonic filter. This is a high pass crossover that you use to protect your subs. That enclosure looks like it is ported. Frequencies played below the port tuning cause your woofer to "unload". You lose all control over your subs and often times, cause damage.
post #12 of 40
I've heard that Best Buy employees have access to JBL gti gear, see if your contact can get you a price on their 10" sub
post #13 of 40
Thread Starter 
Shows them on the site. 6ohm for 10 and 12ohm for 12" ill see what they go for
post #14 of 40
Thread Starter 
Got a price on the ones I linked earlier the two 12" kickers in the enclosure are 210 on discount down from 407 ill know more tomrw

Can anyone look at their site and recommend some amps?
post #15 of 40
post #16 of 40
Thread Starter 
Any suggestions for subwoofers from there? and a enclosure perhaps or should I think about one of the kicker combo's?

Also, one amp I was considering there was this one
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kenwood+...0amp&cp=1&lp=3

It was $158 on employee but I wasn't sure if I needed that much power.

I basically want one I could use for a long time if I ever switch to different subs etc.

The amp you linked looks good also. Just wasn't sure what I need if I plan to run two 12's. I also am trying not to put a huge strain on my car but I'm assuming you have to hit 800+Rms to do that? I don't really know.

Lastly, still loooking at decks. Some of the higher end pioneers and alpine seem to be good, but the lower ones ($150 and less) don't include the sub preamp outputs. How are Kenwoods also? A few of them seem to do everything I want under the $200 mark. (bluetooth being one of them) This one one particular mode, KDC-BT848U
post #17 of 40
See answers below in red

Quote:
Originally Posted by zake202 View Post
Any suggestions for subwoofers from there? and a enclosure perhaps or should I think about one of the kicker combo's?

Also, one amp I was considering there was this one
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kenwood+...0amp&cp=1&lp=3
This amp is fine. Actually a 900 watt@2ohm load rather than 1800 watt "max power" (only when struck by lightning)It was $158 on employee but I wasn't sure if I needed that much power.
Good price/should work fineI basically want one I could use for a long time if I ever switch to different subs etc.

The amp you linked looks good also. Just wasn't sure what I need if I plan to run two 12's. I also am trying not to put a huge strain on my car but I'm assuming you have to hit 800+Rms to do that? I don't really know.
Strain on the electrical system is entirely dependent on each specific electrical sytem to car stereo ratio. Let's look at how this works. your amp receives a DC voltage (in a car's case 12-14 volts. I like to use 12 as my base so it makes any increase gravy!) and based on what you are asking it to do draws DC current to make AC voltage and current that it feeds to your speaker. Let's use your kenwood as an example. Let's assume at max power clean it does 900 watts. to determine how many amps we are going to draw to make this wattage, I will divide 900 by 12 and get 75 amps. If your amplifier was 100% efficient, it would draw 75 amps of current and 12 volts of your cars DC electrical system output to make these 900 watts. BUT since this amp is around 70% efficient at a 2 ohm loadit is going to require a bit more at close to 110 amps at 12 volts to make rated power. IF your alternator does not put out 110 amps of current, the amplifier will pull the remaining current from your battery. Remember also that your car is consuming 50-70 amps of current from the alternator as well. So in reality, you have even less current available from your alternator. So your battery is the "bank" that your audio system draws from for the extra current needed. All this is fine if you are listening to music. Music is very dynamic. Now, if you are listening to long tones, like rap/ hip hop, you are asking for long continuous draws of current. This sucks the life out of your battery. And can shorten the life of the alternator.Lastly, still loooking at decks. Some of the higher end pioneers and alpine seem to be good, but the lower ones ($150 and less) don't include the sub preamp outputs. How are Kenwoods also? A few of them seem to do everything I want under the $200 mark. (bluetooth being one of them) This one one particular mode, KDC-BT848U
post #18 of 40
Thread Starter 
I see.

Thanks for explaining that.

So I guess I'm wondering, what amp should I choose? I plan to get two 12's and possible upgrades in the future.

Still debating on 12" subs based on what BB has, same with a deck.
post #19 of 40
as far as a deck goes, whatever deck fits your budget and has the bells and whistles you want. You linked that one. If it does what you want for the price you want to pay, get it.

Sub amp:either the one you posted or the one I did or a hundred others. Get the most power you can afford that fits in the space you have. If it is killing your battery, turn it down.

subs: those kickers are fine that you linked. Honesty it will drive you crazy and chances are you will have a little bit of regret. But with your budget, you are limited and that kicker box looked fine. Nice thing is, you will probably be able to sell it for what you have in it when you want to upgrade.
post #20 of 40
Thread Starter 
I got some other items I have employee prices on.

Includes a Solo Baric 12" in enclosure but idk what the solo baric ones are.

Do you know of any subs BB carries that you recommend? Seems like most of it is %50 off besides decks, they are roughly %33 off.

JBL - 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 12-Ohm Subwoofer $270
JBL - 10" Dual-Voice-Coil 6-Ohm Subwoofer $243
Kicker - CompVR 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 2-Ohm Subwoofer $70
Kenwood - 1800W Class D Mono Amplifier with Low-Pass Crossover $158
Alpine - 500W Class D Mono MOSFET Amplifier with Adjustable Crossover $115
Alpine CDE-125BT $134
Alpine CDE-123 $134
Alpine CDE-124SXM $161
Kicker DC122 - 12" Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofers with Enclosure $157
Kicker - 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 2-Ohm Subwoofers with Enclosure $210
Kicker - Solo-Baric L7 12" Single Dual-Voice-Coil 2-Ohm Subwoofer with Enclosure $236

I'm worried about being annoyed after a while, and that's why I'm not sure if I should do a single "12 or two 12's.

Also, how do I know what amp I should get for each sub etc? Is there any easy way to know or do I just match up RMS that the amp supplies vs what the subs need?

Thanks for replying btw, really helps.

Apparently the Solo barics and Gti's aren't in any stores. Didn't see this until now. Leaning on either the two kickers in the box, or a single 12".
post #21 of 40
Because it seems you might be getting a bit tangled with all these options. I would say let us know what type of car this is going in and if what's in there currently is all stock, part after market, or what?
You said you primarily listen to Rap. 2-12" subs is going to give you more SPL (louder). As well as go a bit lower in FS (frequency response).
If i remember correctly, the Kicker Solo B's are designed to work in smaller enclosures.
If you want us to tell you what we would do for your needs we need to know what car this is for and the status this far.
post #22 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daledkwb View Post

Because it seems you might be getting a bit tangled with all these options. I would say let us know what type of car this is going in and if what's in there currently is all stock, part after market, or what?
You said you primarily listen to Rap. 2-12" subs is going to give you more SPL (louder). As well as go a bit lower in FS (frequency response).
If i remember correctly, the Kicker Solo B's are designed to work in smaller enclosures.
If you want us to tell you what we would do for your needs we need to know what car this is for and the status this far.

It will be going in a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus. Everything is stock in the car.

I don't think any of the higher end kickers/jbl's are in store and it doesn't seem like they can be shipped to store.
post #23 of 40
Thread Starter 
Don't think I will be fitting two 12's into my bar.

Went out and measured it and it's about 36 inches wide and about 15-16" tall, near the back seat anyway.

Thinking one 12" or two 10's at this point.

Someone recommended the kicker L3's. Going to look into those. How do they compare to the CVR's?
post #24 of 40
You have an enclosed trunk area and these are not great for cabin gain. But you will be able to get a lot of bass to come through. I would purchase the 12" subs VS 10". Just make sure the sub enclosure will fit into the trunk space prior to purchasing. Either from the rear or through the drop seat. I would go with the following:
Alpine CDE-124SXM (head unit)
Kenwood 1800 class D mono amp or Alpine PDX 1.1000 if your buddy at BB can get it at a good price, if at all.
Kicker 12" dual sub cabinet
This is a mixture of equipment but should put out some bass and sound decent too. There is nothing wrong with these items. I know it can be hard to pull the trigger, but when it's all said and done, you should be happy.
post #25 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daledkwb View Post

You have an enclosed trunk area and these are not great for cabin gain. But you will be able to get a lot of bass to come through. I would purchase the 12" subs VS 10". Just make sure the sub enclosure will fit into the trunk space prior to purchasing. Either from the rear or through the drop seat. I would go with the following:
Alpine CDE-124SXM (head unit)
Kenwood 1800 class D mono amp or Alpine PDX 1.1000 if your buddy at BB can get it at a good price, if at all.
Kicker 12" dual sub cabinet
This is a mixture of equipment but should put out some bass and sound decent too. There is nothing wrong with these items. I know it can be hard to pull the trigger, but when it's all said and done, you should be happy.

Great advice!!!
post #26 of 40
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daledkwb View Post

You have an enclosed trunk area and these are not great for cabin gain. But you will be able to get a lot of bass to come through. I would purchase the 12" subs VS 10". Just make sure the sub enclosure will fit into the trunk space prior to purchasing. Either from the rear or through the drop seat. I would go with the following:
Alpine CDE-124SXM (head unit)
Kenwood 1800 class D mono amp or Alpine PDX 1.1000 if your buddy at BB can get it at a good price, if at all.
Kicker 12" dual sub cabinet
This is a mixture of equipment but should put out some bass and sound decent too. There is nothing wrong with these items. I know it can be hard to pull the trigger, but when it's all said and done, you should be happy.

Thank you for the advice!

A few things I was thinking of are,
This Deck, It has Sub Preamp Outputs which a few people were telling me to get. (not sure if that matters?)
I don't think I need XMS radio etc.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kenwood+...ereo&cp=1&lp=8

And these subs with a seperate enclosure,
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+Solo-Baric+L3+12%22+Dual-Voice-Coil+2-Ohm+Subwoofer/2304265.p?id=1218320155797&skuId=2304265&st=solo%20baric%2012"&cp=1&lp=3

They should reduce to $130 a piece. That or just a single 12".

The enclosure should fit in my trunk, just not right up against the back seat. A single 12 would but I don't think that will make a huge difference.
post #27 of 40
The Kenwood head unit looks good. It has front/rear/and sub pre amp outs which will give you the ability to future upgrades.

The Subs are also a good fit as well. I would suggest that if you can, take the specs from Kicker and build your own box for them. I know it's time consuming and such, but you will guaranty yourself that they are in the perfect environment. If you by a prefab box it could be wrong for those. Unless they come with an enclosure (the link would not open for me). at any rate, looks like your close to a final decision.
post #28 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by zake202 View Post

Thinking one 12" or two 10's at this point.

Two 10"s then... you'll get +3dbs if all other factors are the same: brand of subs, enclosure design, power, etc. The main issue is power since running two subs requires twice the power of running one.

And yes you want a deck with subwoofer out - in most cases you can adjust the subwoofer crossover and level from the radio which beats messing with the settings on the amp in the trunk while trying to get the sound your looking for.

I run a Kicker L5 Solo in my truck and they are somewhat power hungry subs. I've got a Polk MM sub in my car and like it alot more. The Polk MM is smoother sounding for sure. Nothing wrong with Kicker I ran their "Comp" series back in the days when I was in car audio competitions. Its just the solos were designed to run in specific enclosures with lots of power.
post #29 of 40
Thread Starter 
Still considering a single 12" at this point.

Basically, my trunk can fit two 12's but I feel two 12's would be too overpowering and take up a ton of room.

I did listen to my friends L5's (two 10") and I liked them, but I liked a single 12" more. It seemed to get deeper.

I have considered making a box at some point in time, probably in a year or two.

Here is what I'm considering atm.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-... 12"&cp=1&lp=1

It is one of the only items they seem to carry locally for the L3's which most people are recommending me over the CVR's.

Let me know what you think. Also was looking at some of the polk audio stuff at BB but idk much about them.
post #30 of 40
I honestly don't know enough about the L3 line.

Not trying to start a heated discussion with anybody but let's be clear on one thing, and I want you to read very carefully because this is where a lot of people get hung up.

It truly does not matter what brand of sub for music you buy. period.

What you ask? Impossible! No way! Blasphemer!

Seriously though. Disregard all voodoo golden eared subjective buzzwords.

AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE WOOFER IN A PROPERLY DESIGNED ENCLOSURE AND USE AN AMOUNT OF POWER THAT DOES NOT SURPASS THE WOOFERS CAPABILITY, IT WILL PERFORM WELL! again period. (different woofer designs can yield better efficiency, better low end extention, lower distortion and or better power handling as well as different enclosure types will yield different results in car. See what I just said about different woofers.) Why do I keep bringing this up? Because I don't want you to spend your money unwisely and get caught up in someone's dislike of a particular brand based on nothing but heresay. I guarantee pick any sub and we can make it do whatever you want within the woofers capabilities. Especially in a car. Gotta love cabin gain.

The woofer enclosure you linked to should do fine. It is ported and I am unsure of tuning so am unsure of SSF settings. You will have to see when/if you get it.

JMII hit on a really good point, the 12 should be a little more louder than a 10. will it be audible to you? not sure.

Remember that single woofer on say 100 watts will put out X decibels.

doubling the number of woofers on 100 watts yields a 3 decibel gain (in a perfect world. I know it's not but pretend)

doubling the power on a single woofer will yield a 3 decibel gain.

doubling the number of woofers to 2 and the power to 200 watts, yields a 6 decibel gain!

Just wanted to expand on JMII's explanation.
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